Cheapest way to convert my 3x9 to 1x9- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cheapest way to convert my 3x9 to 1x9

    I want to lower the weight on my '10 RH SL Pro, i NEVER change my front derailuer... so lets get rid of it all!

    can someone make a complete list of things i need to buy and do to convert to 1x9 by spending the least amt of money?

    thanks very much in adv
    RH SL Pro

  2. #2
    aka baycat
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    Welcome to the single speed forum 1x1!

    One chain ring up front, n-stop or some other chain retention device and a short cage rear der. is what I have used previously.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by baycat
    Welcome to the single speed forum 1x1!

    One chain ring up front, n-stop or some other chain retention device and a short cage rear der. is what I have used previously.
    Yes, but make sure that one front chainring is a non-ramped type....ie SS specific for better chain retention.

    BTW, is short-cage rear derailleur enough for 11-34 cassette? Thought would need mid-cage?
    Get off the couch and ride!

  4. #4
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    i want to keep my 11-34 cassette in the rear and use my middle chainring in the front, how do i do this?

    what parts will i need?
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  5. #5
    aka baycat
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    Ahh forgot about the chain ring. Not sure on the rear der but you are probably right on the med cage.

  6. #6
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    couldnt you just remove the chainrings and get a ss specific chainring? Then lose the der. and shifter?

    or even jus tuse your middle chainring and just get shorter bolts.

  7. #7
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    Nope, short cage is fine for 1x9. The different cage lengths all work with the same size cassettes, the cage length just determines how much chain slack it can take up from the difference between your largest gear combo and your smallest gear combo. Long cage works fine too, it just doesn't prevent as much chain bounce and chain slap on the bottom half of the chain (which can be a cause of dropping the chain up front)

    Your existing middle ring will work fine for now, especially if you just want to see if you like it or not. SS ring does work better though.

    Cheapest way to set it up properly is buy an N-Gear Jump Stop (prevent dropping the chain to the inside) and a BBG bashguard (prevent dropping it to the outside)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Nope, short cage is fine for 1x9. The different cage lengths all work with the same size cassettes, the cage length just determines how much chain slack it can take up from the difference between your largest gear combo and your smallest gear combo. Long cage works fine too, it just doesn't prevent as much chain bounce and chain slap on the bottom half of the chain (which can be a cause of dropping the chain up front)

    Your existing middle ring will work fine for now, especially if you just want to see if you like it or not. SS ring does work better though.

    Cheapest way to set it up properly is buy an N-Gear Jump Stop (prevent dropping the chain to the inside) and a BBG bashguard (prevent dropping it to the outside)
    where can i get these cheap and what are the shorter bolts for and which will i need?
    RH SL Pro

  9. #9
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    You need a bashguard, a jump stop, allen wrenches, a big screwdriver, a cold beer, and a soundproof room with a deadbolt so that you can blast Guns and Roses without your significant other *****ing at you.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisssss
    where can i get these cheap and what are the shorter bolts for and which will i need?
    you only need the shorter bolts if you aren't using a bash guard. The bolts have to be shorter because they are only going through one ring and not two

    Here are the BBG bashguards, they are a home-made by a guy in Oregon and one of the cheapest easily available bashguards. $18 including shipping. Get the size that matches your middle ring. A size up wont hurt though as it allows you to try a bigger middle ring if you want.

    There are a bunch of online stores that carry the Jump Stop now, but I like to buy direct from the guy here. Email him and then paypal him $12 (free shipping)

    Alternatively, BBG sells a inner bashguard that is sized for a 32t middle ring and mounts where your granny ring was. This is a very simple setup but doesn't fit on many frames, especially XC hardtails

  11. #11
    Bruh
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    BBG 104PCD 32T drilled bashguard, N-Gear Jumpstop, and Salsa 32T 7075-T6 chainring. I'm running a XT Shadow rear derailleur, med. cage.

    Works phenomenally.




  12. #12
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    Don't do an impression of your little sister and suffer like the rest of us with eight fewer gears.

  13. #13
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    Cheapest; remove little and big ring, max the limit screws on the front derailleur to keep it centered over the middle ring, remove front shifter if separate from brake.

    Zero dollars

    Morgan

  14. #14
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    Spend 45 bucks and get the MRP 1.x guide. Eliminates the need for both a inside stop and a guard to the outside. It works very well too.
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  15. #15
    bikexor
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    You could make money doing this.

    Forget this SS specific chainring mess, I run a bike 1x9 with my ramped and pinned middle ring and it's aiight. I don't use a chainguide or stationary derailer either. You could buy a crank extractor ($10) or just get the LBS to pop it off for you.

    Use the little bolts from the granny ring or use some washers from the other rings, or get some washers at the hardware store ($0.05 each, maybe).

    You'll be able to shorten your chain too (chain tool, $12). Once you've got everything removed run the unhooked chain around the chainring and the biggest rear cog in the cassette (DONT RUN IT THROUGH THE DERAILER). Pull it tight to see how short it could be then add 2 links.

    SELL DERAILER AND SHIFTER.... PROFIT.
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  16. #16
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    Not running a chain guide isn't something I'd recommend, personally. Also, a non-ramped SS-specific chainring has a taller tooth profile and will retain a chain much better, not to mention run smoother. Sure, you could do it, but if you run over rougher terrain often that leaves you with the sounds of chain slap, I'd say you shouldn't.

    You're looking at around 60 bucks, total, to convert to 1x9 status, including bashguard, jumpstop, and chainring.

    Sell your derailleur and shifter, and you'll cut that by half, at least.

  17. #17
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    Have to have a med. cage derailleur because of the chain wrap issue of the 34 tooth. I also like the paul chain keeper because its adjustable and what not. Everything else has already been stated adequately
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  18. #18
    AZ
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    Hike up your skirt and get rid of it all , you only really need one gear .

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixedforbroke
    Have to have a med. cage derailleur because of the chain wrap issue of the 34 tooth. I also like the paul chain keeper because its adjustable and what not. Everything else has already been stated adequately
    Nope, short cage really is fine. The short cage SRAM can handle a 30t difference in chain wrap and an 11-34t cassette only has a 23t difference between largest and smallest cogs. You can even run a short cage on a 3x9 if you avoid certain ratios (which are duplicates anyway)

    Read this thread for more of the details.

  20. #20
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    cheapest method, keep doing what your already doing.

    1x9 setup properly gives a little tighter shifting response.

    1x1 give you everything you hoped for except for ability to hope for better... which you never found anyway.

  21. #21
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    i have a long cage XT RD, will this be a problem with changing to my 1x9? what exactly is the problem?
    RH SL Pro

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisssss
    i have a long cage XT RD, will this be a problem with changing to my 1x9? what exactly is the problem?
    No problem at all... Long still works great, short and medium cage just work a bit better. Many people use the long cage that came stock on their bike.

  23. #23
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    so let me get this straight, i'll need to remove my FD/FD Shifter + bashguard and what else?
    RH SL Pro

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisssss
    so let me get this straight, i'll need to remove my FD/FD Shifter + bashguard and what else?

    Remove the two chainrings that you do not wish to use .

  25. #25
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    Why is this not in the drivetrain thread?

    the world must be coming to an end.
    the sign of the apocalypse is here. singlespeeder's talking about deraileurs.
    next time

    [QUOTE=spazzy] Might as well sell your bikes, E-riding is much more productive.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Nope, short cage really is fine. The short cage SRAM can handle a 30t difference in chain wrap and an 11-34t cassette only has a 23t difference between largest and smallest cogs. You can even run a short cage on a 3x9 if you avoid certain ratios (which are duplicates anyway)

    Read this thread for more of the details.
    On my HT gearie been thinking about converting to 1x9 or 1x8 (remove the smallest cog from cassete) but I just installed brand new XT Shadow rear derailleur long-cage, cassette, and chain. Can I buy the cage only and swap it onto mine to get the shorter cage setup without buying whole new derailleur?
    Get off the couch and ride!

  27. #27
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    Yes, what about this thread is singlespeed specific? Please move this to 29'er or drivetrain.
    "When the end of the world comes, I want to be in Cincinnati because it's always 20 years behind the times." Twain

  28. #28
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    Remove your inner and outer chainrings, left and right shifters and cut the chain as short as it will go while retaining a decent chainline. Remove the front derailer and use the rear to get decent chain tension.

    Go out for a ride and forget about sitting and spinning up a hill ever again while simultaneously working out your smile muscles more than you have ever done so before.

    But for real, a 1x9 setup would be a perfect pub bike.

  29. #29
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    i dont know why people are saying buy this buy that its better... phuckin BS I say. I had 1x9 before I decided 1x1 was the way to go. How easy was it to 1x9? take granny ring off, leave bashguard and middle ring if you dont have a big ring. remove front derailleur and shiter. done. cost, a bit of time.

  30. #30
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    mrp 1.x is super cheap and works super good -
    I've changed my ring to a SS ring and put a short cage on my derailleur since i took this pic, but you get the idea.

    the guide is like $50 retail.... and works great!

    Want to go green? Want to be low impact?
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman1
    i dont know why people are saying buy this buy that its better... phuckin BS I say. I had 1x9 before I decided 1x1 was the way to go. How easy was it to 1x9? take granny ring off, leave bashguard and middle ring if you dont have a big ring. remove front derailleur and shiter. done. cost, a bit of time.
    my suggestions are all based on having tried it that way myself and having it drop chains too often. You could get lucky and have a set up that works out, but I was trying to help the OP avoid those frustrations before they ever happen. Feel free to leave add your own advice, but I still stand by mine

  32. #32
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    It seems to me that if this takes so much work, why not just keep the other two rings or go single speed. I can't ever say I've had a problem with my front derailler that I couldn't fix in five minutes with a phillips. Way more issues with a rear d. Single is awesome but gears are cool too. 1x9's seem like they would just ride like a handicapped 3x9.

  33. #33
    I'm just messing with you
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    I went from 1x9 to 3x9 this weekend, so I guess I'm regressing.

    I used the granny a couple times, and was glad to have it. It saved me some wear and tear in spots where the climbs are steep enough that stomping up with the 1x9 would send my HR out of control. Other than that, I was on the middle ring except for the pave ride in and out where I put the big ring to good use.

    Even with all new parts, the FD doesn't shift for beans. That's always been my gripe with the 3x9 setup, half the time when you need it to shift, it won't.

    PS, why is this thread in the singlespeed forum?
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  34. #34
    SSolo, on your left!
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv_bob
    ...PS, why is this thread in the singlespeed forum?
    Yes, good point....why is it???
    Get off the couch and ride!

  35. #35
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    Take a look at one of these
    http://www.widgit.com.au/

  36. #36
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    Unless you're getting rid of your gears in the back as well, this belongs in the drive train forum.

    Why did you even post it in the single speed forum?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExpertCrasher
    Spend 45 bucks and get the MRP 1.x guide. Eliminates the need for both a inside stop and a guard to the outside. It works very well too.
    Did you get shorter bolts to make this work or did you use some sort of spacer combination?

  38. #38
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    Easiest and cheapest way is to use the limit screws to lock your FD over the middle 'ring (no need for guides/guards) and toss the shifter and cable. Would take less than 10 minutes and zero dollars. Remove the other two ' rings if you want.
    All of the true things I'm about to tell you are shameless lies.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by subspd
    Did you get shorter bolts to make this work or did you use some sort of spacer combination?
    You can buy chainring spacers but I've found the shorter bolts to work better. The spacers seem to cause more loose chainring bolts in the long run

  40. #40
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    Spacers and washers are also another source for creaks and drivetrain groans farther down the line.

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