changing gears on my rig- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    changing gears on my rig

    i have a stock 2007 gf rig. i wanted to get a litter different gearing. first what would you guys recommend as far as gearing goes. i ride in il/wi and am a beginner. Also what size front chainring should i look for. i see they have two measurements. the first being the tooth and im not sure what the second is for. Sorry for the stupid questions. thanks

  2. #2
    AZ
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    What gearing do you have now , 32 x 18 ?

  3. #3
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    yes sorry 32 x 18

  4. #4
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    32 x 20 is a good start. Have you ridden it yet?

  5. #5
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    yeh ive ridden it a few times. havent really gotten on a trail yet. wifes been in the hospital for a month with preterm labor. hopefully this weekend.

  6. #6
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    I wouldn't bother messing with it until you spend a while riding it on trails. We could recommend gearings all day but when it comes down to it you either need a lower gear than what you have now, or a higher gear than what you have now. Figuring out which one is up to you.

  7. #7
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    what crank is on it?

  8. #8
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    Keep the 32t ring, just change the rear cog.
    Ride more!

  9. #9
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    Like another guy said, ride it first....

    I was dead set on 32/20 when I bought my Rig (reading and hearing what others have said)....

    When it came down to it, I can only not clear 2-3 very steep climbs on my 10-11 mile set of trails here.... 32/20 would have me spinning all over the rest of the park....

    That said, I left the 20t off and ordered a 19t to play around with.... God luck!!!

  10. #10
    jdg
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    If your terrain is rolling I'd keep the existing gearing but you'll need to try it out first. If you live in the mountains with extended climbing then a change would be warranted.

  11. #11
    Teen Wolf
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    i run 32x18 on my rig in wi, but it totally depends on where you are riding.

  12. #12
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    I went 32x20 on my new (first) SS.

    I have ridden several trail around here over the last 1.5 weeks, and am racing it on Sunday.

    I have not had any issues thus far, clearing the hills on the local trail. I am sure there ore others in the area that 32x20 would be useful, however for the majority of my normal ridin, I am considering going to 32x18.

    My question is three fold:
    1)How long should Irun 32x20 before changing, i.e. how do you know when to go bigger
    2) Should I change sooner, to "train" myself for the bigger gear
    3) Should I just plan on routinely changing on a regular basis depending on trails? For example, new trails,or more difficult ones i know,go with 20T,easier locals go 18T. Do I risk anything changing often?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    My question is three fold:
    1)How long should Irun 32x20 before changing, i.e. how do you know when to go bigger
    2) Should I change sooner, to "train" myself for the bigger gear
    3) Should I just plan on routinely changing on a regular basis depending on trails? For example, new trails,or more difficult ones i know,go with 20T,easier locals go 18T. Do I risk anything changing often?
    1) When you feel you need to. If there's a climb you want to conquer or if you're annoyed at spinning out too often, change.

    2) Nah.

    3) Up to you. Some people like to have it 100% spot on, others like to suck it up and ride. For me, if I had to have the absolute perfect gear for every occasion I'd just run gears. Up to you. No problems with changing cogs, but you'll probably end up wanting a separate chain for each ratio you run regularly. Significantly different ratios need different length chains and adding and removing links is a PITA. SS chains are cheap.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    I went 32x20 on my new (first) SS.

    I have ridden several trail around here over the last 1.5 weeks, and am racing it on Sunday.

    I have not had any issues thus far, clearing the hills on the local trail. I am sure there ore others in the area that 32x20 would be useful, however for the majority of my normal ridin, I am considering going to 32x18.

    My question is three fold:
    1)How long should Irun 32x20 before changing, i.e. how do you know when to go bigger
    2) Should I change sooner, to "train" myself for the bigger gear
    3) Should I just plan on routinely changing on a regular basis depending on trails? For example, new trails,or more difficult ones i know,go with 20T,easier locals go 18T. Do I risk anything changing often?
    It's all preference, and noone can give you an answer other than yourself. Personally, i run a 32-20 (translated from 26er gearing) when racing as i feel i can reach a fast enough top speed, and the easier gearing helps me save energy on the climbs. I raced with people who ran both harder gearing and easier gearing, and they also did fine (although i beat them ).
    As for training yourself for a bigger gear, maybe a 1 tooth jump might not hurt. I always rode a 32-19 and raced a 32-17 and it worked out better that way.
    Dont get in the habbit of changing out gears on a regular basis unless you really need to. You'll learn to adapt for the most part, and "run what you brung" is part of the fun of SS.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    It's all preference, and noone can give you an answer other than yourself. Personally, i run a 32-20 (translated from 26er gearing) when racing as i feel i can reach a fast enough top speed, and the easier gearing helps me save energy on the climbs. I raced with people who ran both harder gearing and easier gearing, and they also did fine (although i beat them ).
    As for training yourself for a bigger gear, maybe a 1 tooth jump might not hurt. I always rode a 32-19 and raced a 32-17 and it worked out better that way.
    Dont get in the habbit of changing out gears on a regular basis unless you really need to. You'll learn to adapt for the most part, and "run what you brung" is part of the fun of SS.

    Thanks for the responses. I haven't been running SS for very long, but I love it! I have not had large issues with my current set-up, the biggest challenge I have faced it what to do with my thumbs!

    I was just thinking that going to 32x18, which is the "stock" ratio on many bikes would make me a stronger rider. I just don't don't want to settle, because it is (relatively) easy and comfortable. I already have the 18T, as it came with my hubs, but I got a 20T to start.

    I live in lower Michigan, so things can be considered pretty flat riding compared to many other areas.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    Thanks for the responses. I haven't been running SS for very long, but I love it! I have not had large issues with my current set-up, the biggest challenge I have faced it what to do with my thumbs!

    I was just thinking that going to 32x18, which is the "stock" ratio on many bikes would make me a stronger rider. I just don't don't want to settle, because it is (relatively) easy and comfortable. I already have the 18T, as it came with my hubs, but I got a 20T to start.

    I live in lower Michigan, so things can be considered pretty flat riding compared to many other areas.
    Yea, if it's flat, a harder gear wouldnt hurt. I live in Southern California where it's a much different story, so my gearing suggestions are even that much more useless

  17. #17
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    fwiw, my kings came with an 18t installed....i had been running a 20t cog for awhile and gave the 18t a try.
    it was much faster on the flats, but on the climbs that i previously conquered, i stalled out on.
    so, i'd rather spin out on the flats and make all the climbs than haul a little more ass on the flats and dab on the climbs.
    and when i say climbs, it's nothing extended....just some short, steep, rooty climbs.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny the boy
    fwiw, my kings came with an 18t installed....i had been running a 20t cog for awhile and gave the 18t a try.
    it was much faster on the flats, but on the climbs that i previously conquered, i stalled out on.
    so, i'd rather spin out on the flats and make all the climbs than haul a little more ass on the flats and dab on the climbs.
    and when i say climbs, it's nothing extended....just some short, steep, rooty climbs.
    Thank you. Short, steep, and rooty applies to many of the climbs around here.

    That is my case, I have an 18T King, but started 20T. Not knowing how much of a difference 2 teeth would make, I was unsure of the switch.

    Maybe I should just get cogs from ISAR from 15-19T in 1 tooth increments!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    Thank you. Short, steep, and rooty applies to many of the climbs around here.

    That is my case, I have an 18T King, but started 20T. Not knowing how much of a difference 2 teeth would make, I was unsure of the switch.

    Maybe I should just get cogs from ISAR from 15-19T in 1 tooth increments!

  20. #20
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    Great info in the thread already. One factor when riding SS is momentum. This is where sometimes riding a bit higher gear can help. You can get pretty good momentum in the flats and then carry it into the climbs. Just make sure you can still mash with it up the hills without feeling like you were about to stall. Shouldn't be so hard that it strains your lower back and hurts like crazy.

    I've noticed this when riding both 32:18 and 32:20 on my 29er. When it comes to climbing, I mash at about the same rpm with both gear ratios, but the 32:18 allows me to carry more momentum and get up the hills faster. The 32:20 is nice for really steep climbs, but on most climbs I feel like I carry very little momentum and get up the hill slower. If you are a good spinner, then the lower gear may be better, but I'm more of a stand-and-grind kind of guy.

    I actually have the 20T on right now, but I plan on getting a 34T ring to gear up a bit.

  21. #21
    dying hurts.
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    i'm more of a stand and grind kinda guy too....but it's hard to stand, grind and still have the finesse to get the front end over large roots and rocks- for me it is, anyway.
    on the non-technical climbs, the 18t feels good....but i need to improve my rigid fork handling before i can get over the front end and stand and mash while at the same time dodging roots, rocks and the occasional tight tree spot.

  22. #22
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    thanks for the help guys. ill stick with stock until i get some miles on it.

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