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Thread: Chain width

  1. #1
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    Chain width

    Hey hey,

    I'm new to this forum and new to mountain bikes. I've just bought my first mountain bike off my bike-mad neighbour and it's a singlespeed. I really wasn't sure at first, but my word, what fun it is.. no more thinking about gears...

    Anyway; to the point. The bike's a Genesis io 1.0. I've upgraded the brakes to Avid Juicy 7s - a huge improvement - and I want to slowly upgrade the bike to a much better one. I want to start with the drivetrain, as I have some issues with the chain skipping off the rear cog occasionally. My neighbour recommend I get a White Industries Freewheel. Which, looking at this forum, would be good advice. So I'm going to.

    1) What width chain should I get? (Currently an 1/8th)
    2) What make/model? (Currenly a cheapo 8 chain)
    3) What cranks would you chaps/chicks recommend? (My current cranks aren't entirely circular so the chain tension alters - part of the chain-skipping problem, no doubt)

    Cheers.

  2. #2
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    Judging by your post, you're in the UK.
    And, as I happen to need a reason to make my first post, I'll have a crack at an answer.

    I've just built up a monocog w/ a WI freewheel and stronglight impact cranks and surly steel chainring. I got all these bits off Will at hubjub.co.uk. He's a top bloke with reams of expertise and runs a good business. Don't know how much ya wanna spend, but his site is worth checking out.

    I run a 3/32 kmc (though i also use shimano 8 spg HG or similar...whatever's available and not totally rubbish, really)chain on these bits and, though i've only had one ride so far on this bike, it purrs nicely.

    hope dat helps.

    stan.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the info. I had my eye on a KMC but I'm undecided about which is better (3/32 or 1/8) and why. But if you can run a 3/32 on a White Industries, I may go for that.

    Cheers.

  4. #4
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    Usually 1/8 chains have stiffer side plates to prevent derailling since they are not made to shift. KMC makes 3/32 chains that are for SS so it doesn't matter. I like to stick with 1/8 anyways just for the extra space, giving a little bit of leeway before it can attempt to derail. I usually run Z710SLs.

    This the bike?
    http://www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk/pr...cal=1&v=VARiO#
    Looks like it comes with a shimano FW. Changing to a WI will be an upgrade, but not one that would really help keep the chain on. You can try to get some of the eccentricity out of the chainring by loosening the chainring bolts and retightening them in a criss cross pattern. All cranks will have some eccentricity to them. It is unavoidable. How do set the chain tension? That might be your problem. A new chain wouldn't be a bad idea, but setting it up properly will be important.
    I have one bike that if it doesn't have proper tension it derails constantly. Another isn't sensitive to it at all and the chain can be fairly slack and swaying side to side and it won't derail.

  5. #5
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    A related question - any issues with using a 1/8th chain on a chainring (middleburn) and cog (surley) designed for 3/32 (stamped on the side of them) - like accelerated cog/chainring wear?

  6. #6
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    the only time i used a 1/8th chain on 3/32 parts (fixed road bike), i found the noise coming off it to be most disagreeable to mah ears.

    keep it all the same is my mantra.silence is golden.

    but that's just mah experience.

    stan.

  7. #7
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    FYI I ran a 1/8 chain unbeknownst to me on a 3/32 crank(w/ bash) and on a Endless SS Cog.

    The chain rubbed through the paint and into the aluminum of the bashguard. It all but ruined a front chainring (It flattened the teeth to the point a 3/32 would not fit on the chainring). Luckily it did not have any serious effect on the Endless cog.

    I was under the impression 1/8 - bigger stronger better, so I went for it. Turns out it ruined my front chain ring and the chain itself was pretty crappy. Usually 4-5 stiff links, skipping underload(either the stiff links, or to large of a chain on the chainrings not meant for it), it was a SRAM PC-1 (non-Ni).

    I would check to make sure the chainring and cog are good to work with the 1/8th before just slapping it on.

    To save you the trouble of looking, the best(as far as mtbr posters are concerned) 3/32 chain is the Sram PC-68(I think I paid 18) and the KMC Z710 (12, which can be found at Misfit Psycles)
    Don't hate on the minivan!!!!!!!

  8. #8
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    Schmucker,

    It's actually this one: http://www.thecyclepeople.com/productdetails.asp?id=534

    I have a little trouble with the chain because there is a change in tension depending on where the cranks are positioned. This could either be the cranks or the chainring or both. The chain is as tight as it can be given the tightest point. It's hardly flopping around at its loosest point, but clearly something's not right.

    I may also get something like a Surly chainring and see if that enables me to centre it better. Currently there's no play on the chainring bolts with my existing chainring so I can't tap the chainring to get a better constant tension.

    The chain never comes off under extreme pressure - just when I'm cycling along. The chainline's fine, by the way.

    Out of interest, what cranks/chainring do you have on the bike that doesn't derail?

    The main reason for getting the the WI is that a fairly new rear Shimano cog is already grinding away and a sealed unit would be much better.

    Thanks for the help.

  9. #9
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by chobbney
    Schmucker,

    It's actually this one: http://www.thecyclepeople.com/productdetails.asp?id=534

    I have a little trouble with the chain because there is a change in tension depending on where the cranks are positioned. This could either be the cranks or the chainring or both. The chain is as tight as it can be given the tightest point. It's hardly flopping around at its loosest point, but clearly something's not right.

    I may also get something like a Surly chainring and see if that enables me to centre it better. Currently there's no play on the chainring bolts with my existing chainring so I can't tap the chainring to get a better constant tension.

    The chain never comes off under extreme pressure - just when I'm cycling along. The chainline's fine, by the way.

    Out of interest, what cranks/chainring do you have on the bike that doesn't derail?

    The main reason for getting the the WI is that a fairly new rear Shimano cog is already grinding away and a sealed unit would be much better.

    Thanks for the help.
    Sounds like yer chainring has ovalized; something quite common with thinner (read 'cheap', or pinned and ramped, if it's a converted bike) aluminum chainrings. For this, the stainless steel Surly chainring is just what the doc ordered. Thicker, stronger, quieter, purtier too. No more clank a clank, no more thrown chains. Do use it with a 6,7, or 8 spd chain, as that's what it's designed to used with.

  10. #10
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    I was going to go for this chain (3/32) at the top of the page. I don't know if it's a 6, 7, 8 speed.

    And the WI rear cog, of course. And a Surly Chainring.

    I tried rotating the chainring so it connected at different bolts. It was worse at some positions than others - which tells me it's not round.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chobbney
    I was going to go for this chain (3/32) at the top of the page. I don't know if it's a 6, 7, 8 speed.

    And the WI rear cog, of course. And a Surly Chainring.

    I tried rotating the chainring so it connected at different bolts. It was worse at some positions than others - which tells me it's not round.
    That's a good chain; it's the one that came on my SS. I managed to #$%* mine up, but that's because of my ineptitude with a chain breaker, not any fault of the chain. Been wondering where to find another like it... It's a 3/32, so dunno why it wouldn't work with yer Surly chainring. You've confirmed that yer chainring is ovalized; get the Surly. You won't be disappointed. I like mine so much, when it comes time to replace my crankset, I won't buy any crankset that won't take it.

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