Chain tensioning- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Chain tensioning

    Hi guys,


    I am rather new to the idea of running a SS on a MTB although I have rode fixie myself many years ago such as BMX and other urban bikes.

    One thing I do not quite understand is when you guys chang rear cogs to suit different riding style (for a suitable gear ratio)how do you manage the chain slack or chain being too short when you move up or down the rear gear numbers?

    I am planning to run a FC ebb which allow 15mm or 0.5 inch of chain tensioning.
    For example, IF I am running a ratio of 32-16 now and does that means the chain will be too short or too long when I change my rear cog?

  2. #2
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    You can try to use the same chain by dropping the same number of teeth on one end that you add to the other end. For instance, if you wanted a harder gear you could go 33/15 and you might not have to modify your chain. But the best answer is to use a SRAM chain with a powerlink and just have different chain lengths for different gear ratios.

  3. #3
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    Or use a tensioner. Will allow you more chain slack untensioned, making changing gearing easier until you decide on the gear you are happy to run.

  4. #4
    The need for singlespeed
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    No disrespect, but I don't think anyone who wants to run a FC EBB would consider a tensioner. This is probably the solution the OP's looking for.

    I run a FC EBB. I wanted to gear 32/18 w/o a half-link but it wouldn't tension at any point in its, er, eccentricity. So I'm running 32/17. In my experimentation, I could see that 32/18 would have worked had I used a half-link.

  5. #5
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    Hi,

    I am it sure if you were replying to me but what I was trying to ask around is assuming I am running a FC EBB. How do one actually cope with the change of rear cog? Do I need to prepare a couple of chain all the time to cater to the change?

  6. #6
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    I know that I personally don't change my ratio once it's set. That's part of the greatness that is singlespeed. You have to adapt yourself to changing terrain. No more adapting your bike.
    Sometimes, I question the value of my content.

  7. #7
    Ahhh the pain....
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    I'd have to agree with eric1245... Unless you're racing and trying to eek out every second, just find a gear and stick with it. The only time I switched was after SSing for about 8 months, my legs were stronger and I found that it began to annoy me. Dropped a tooth on the cog and all was fine. Now after another 8 months, I'm thinking it might be time again to drop a tooth.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zaskaranddriver View Post
    No disrespect, but I don't think anyone who wants to run a FC EBB would consider a tensioner. This is probably the solution the OP's looking for.

    I run a FC EBB. I wanted to gear 32/18 w/o a half-link but it wouldn't tension at any point in its, er, eccentricity. So I'm running 32/17. In my experimentation, I could see that 32/18 would have worked had I used a half-link.
    None taken. I only meant to use it until the gearing ratio was found that worked for the OP. Then go to the ebb. Less money on multiple chains then. And faster switching.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, I pretty much agree with the other guys. I wouldn't change my gear ratio unless I was a serious racer (and I'm not). I tried a few different gears and settled on the one that works best for me given my fitness and local trails. For what it's worth, I run 32/21 on a 29er (roughly equivalent to 32/19 on a 26). That gear works great for up and down twisty trails. It doesn't work so well for flat trails, but I don't ride flat trails.

  10. #10
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    I also don't change my gears but what I heard of people doing is having short lengths of chain and just adding the links or taking them out using master links. So if they switch to a bigger cog they just add in the extra chain with 2 master links. Going back to the small cog take that section of chain out and just have the one master link.

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