Chain Tensioner...Could use a little help...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    The Riddler
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    Chain Tensioner...Could use a little help...

    I just converted an old GF tassajara to a singlespeed. XT 32 tooth on xt crankset and 16 tooth cog stolen from an old casette. I shortened the chain as much as possible, however there was still slack, and the cog seemed to be trying to to shift the chain so I got a KORE tensioner to pick up the slack. However, I am having difficulty setting it up. It doesn't take enough slack outof the chain. Can anyone lend a hand. Thanks,

  2. #2
    Penis Goat!
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    You probably need to preload the spring. You can learn more about this by going to Surly's website, www.surlybikes.com, and downloading the instruction manual for their Singleator.

    To do this the easy way, hold it in an odd position (such as in the 9 o'clock position), and tighten it to the derailleur hanger. Then you can rotate it around, and wrap the chain around it. This will introduce tension into the spring, so it'll be able to put tension on the chain.

    You might have to experiment with this technique, holding the tensioner in different positions while tightening it down, to get the correct tension. Hope this is what you need.

  3. #3
    giddy up!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaparzo
    I just converted an old GF tassajara to a singlespeed. XT 32 tooth on xt crankset and 16 tooth cog stolen from an old casette. I shortened the chain as much as possible, however there was still slack, and the cog seemed to be trying to to shift the chain so I got a KORE tensioner to pick up the slack. However, I am having difficulty setting it up. It doesn't take enough slack outof the chain. Can anyone lend a hand. Thanks,
    I'd say you need a proper SS chain tensioner, such as a surly singleator or a soulcraft convert..

    The kore ain't soo hot.

    B
    www.thepathbikeshop.com

  4. #4
    The Riddler
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    darn. thanks for the tip anyway. Another quick Q. Do you think investing in a non ramped cog would be a good idea, or does it matter once I get enough chain tension?

  5. #5
    giddy up!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaparzo
    darn. thanks for the tip anyway. Another quick Q. Do you think investing in a non ramped cog would be a good idea, or does it matter once I get enough chain tension?
    I would, just to eliminate all possible flaws in the system. They're cheap too!

    B
    www.thepathbikeshop.com

  6. #6
    mtbr member
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    convert and half link

    here is a pic of my trek, i had to use a convert with a half link to get it to work good with 36:16


    convert


    scott
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    Last edited by scottms33; 11-23-2004 at 06:39 PM. Reason: add a url link

  7. #7
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    will this help you any?

    http://www.kore-usa.com/spec.htm#crec

  8. #8
    Rollin' a fatty Moderator
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    Fisher's are tricky due to the Genesis geometry. I would try the combination that you got plus a half link, is there's still too much slag try a 17 or 18 cog.

    On most conversions a 2:1 ratio works fine without a tensioner but in the case of the Genesis geometry the chainstays are shorter and that creates all sorts of problems. These problems aren't big and can be solved with some good ol trial and error.

    Try several cogs and see if the chain tension improves if it doesn't or you want to stay 32:16 use an old rear mech or get a Rennen tensioner.

  9. #9
    Penis Goat!
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    Quote Originally Posted by donkey
    I would, just to eliminate all possible flaws in the system. They're cheap too!

    B
    Definately, having a BMX cog makes it much easier. I don't think I'd call it 'investing,' since you can get them for $3-4 at your LBS. More like cheap insurance.

  10. #10
    high plains drifter
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    yes

    according to the ten commandments given to us by soul if you use ramped rings
    and cogs you will die.why take the chance .the ramping is there to promote the chain to slip off the ring or cog and that is what you dont want when ssing up any hill

  11. #11
    Retro Grouch
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    First try a half-link...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaparzo
    I just converted an old GF tassajara to a singlespeed. XT 32 tooth on xt crankset and 16 tooth cog stolen from an old casette. I shortened the chain as much as possible, however there was still slack, and the cog seemed to be trying to to shift the chain so I got a KORE tensioner to pick up the slack. However, I am having difficulty setting it up. It doesn't take enough slack outof the chain. Can anyone lend a hand. Thanks,
    Here one for 3/32 chain from <a href="http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=526189933285&d=single&c=Components&sc =Chains&item_id=KM-Z510L">biketoolsetc</a>.

    1G1G, Brad

  12. #12
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    try 32*20

    32*20 worked on a gary fisher - if you google 'fix me up singlespeed' there is a program out there that will help you find the 'magic' gears that will fit sans tensioner.

    If you have a proper tensioner (surly, soulcraft etc...) you won't need a half link. I can't ever see a situation where you would need both????

  13. #13
    Retro Grouch
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    Listen! I beg to differ..

    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller
    32*20 worked on a gary fisher - if you google 'fix me up singlespeed' there is a program out there that will help you find the 'magic' gears that will fit sans tensioner.

    If you have a proper tensioner (surly, soulcraft etc...) you won't need a half link. I can't ever see a situation where you would need both????
    The truth is tensioners suck. The Kore tensioner is mounted on the stay and doesn't take up much of the chain before the chain contacts runs into the stay. Yes if you want to invest in new cogs and chain rings you can get closer. But there is no magic combination that works on all bikes. A half link costs $1.00. On my Bontrager a half link it let me use a 32:16 without a tensioner and I simply removed it if I changed to 32:18. Even if you find the "magic gears", they only work until the chain streches, then you're back with the same problem again. If you can't afford an ENO or surgery to your bike, a tensioner may be a necessary evil and even then, the shorter the chain, the less the slack, the better a tensioner works; hence a half link. A dirty little secret is a derailleur works even better because it has one pulley that holds the chain over the cog and another that tensions the chain; hence even if the chain goes slack, there is still a pulley holding the chain in place.

    I finally got tired of the whole thing and had a bike made with an EBB.

    1G1G, Brad

  14. #14
    Let the cowbell ring
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    I've had good luck with the Paul Melvin. Works better than the singleator for me. An old road derailler should work also.

  15. #15
    resident crackpot
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    Kore Chain Reactor works fine for me...

    I will say that in the 'correct', geared form for mounting, the Kore Chain Reactor isn't very good for tensioning a chain for SS use. However, I did a bit of trying this and that out with it and came up with a viable, and reliable way to tension an SS chain using the Kore Chain Reactor.

    All I did was drill a hole in the opposite arm, parallel to the hole with the highest amount of spring tension. After that, I simply switched the arms around and turned it around. I used it on my converted Trek 930 with 16.94" stays, using 36/18, 32/16, 34/17, and 36/20. This, coupled with an offset link (or half link) in some gearing cases.

    It is currently serving duty on my daughter's converted Yokota using 34/16 gearing. She is more of a hard-surface rider, but has also ridden it geared 34/17 with me on dirt as well. I feel that the Kore is the best $5 tensioner money can buy, provided someone with some mechanical abilities can put some work into it.
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  16. #16
    The Riddler
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    Quote Originally Posted by loonyOne
    I will say that in the 'correct', geared form for mounting, the Kore Chain Reactor isn't very good for tensioning a chain for SS use. However, I did a bit of trying this and that out with it and came up with a viable, and reliable way to tension an SS chain using the Kore Chain Reactor.

    All I did was drill a hole in the opposite arm, parallel to the hole with the highest amount of spring tension. After that, I simply switched the arms around and turned it around. I used it on my converted Trek 930 with 16.94" stays, using 36/18, 32/16, 34/17, and 36/20. This, coupled with an offset link (or half link) in some gearing cases.

    It is currently serving duty on my daughter's converted Yokota using 34/16 gearing. She is more of a hard-surface rider, but has also ridden it geared 34/17 with me on dirt as well. I feel that the Kore is the best $5 tensioner money can buy, provided someone with some mechanical abilities can put some work into it.
    That's exactly what it should do regularly! I'll give that a shot.

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