Chain Tension Question (ENO content)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Chain Tension Question (ENO content)

    So, have a question for the group. I have an ENO eccentric hub, and I recently changed my gearing from 32:17 to 32:18. At first I kept the chain the same length, but it pushed my wheel too far forward and I was getting tire buzz under cornering. So, I added the minimal amount I had to (1-link) and this is what the result is:

    That is with the hub rotated full back (max tension). Is that too slack? I donít want to get out on the trail and find out itís a problem.

    My other option would be to run a narrower rear tire without massive side knobs and bringing it forward wouldnít be as much an issue. I just got my WI freewheel so Iím not changing that, and I am getting WI M30 cranks with a 32t ring this week so Iím pretty tied in to that gearing for the time being. Narrower rear tire is the least expensive option I believe, but if the way I have it now will work Iíll continue to run it. Thanks!

    (Before adding chain link. I know it looks good, but the knobs on the tires were too far into the chainstay/B.B. junction):




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  2. #2
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    That would be too slack for my taste, but if you can't pull on the chain sideways and derail it, you're 'probably' okay.

    I would look at running a half link if possible, or clipping the corners of the shoulder knobs if you like that tire as a rear. If neither of those are an option, I'd go for the smaller tire.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I would look at running a half link if possible, or clipping the corners of the shoulder knobs if you like that tire as a rear. If neither of those are an option, I'd go for the smaller tire.
    I donít think a half link would work for me with a NW chainring. I thought about cutting the knobs but realistically it would just probably be frustrating as those tomahawks have huge thick side knobs. Iím thinking an Ikon 2.2 or something like that would work well, but I am going to try and use it tomorrow night and hope not to derail it.


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  4. #4
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    4-bolt 104mm standard rings are fairly easy to come by and a KMC Z610 chain, which comes with a half link, could be cheaper than a new tire.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianU View Post
    4-bolt 104mm standard rings are fairly easy to come by and a KMC Z610 chain, which comes with a half link, could be cheaper than a new tire.
    I just invested in a WI M30 crankset with their direct mount ring, believe me that ring is not cheaper than a tire.


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  6. #6
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    Just run a tensioner. Then your problems are solved. Seems like a whole lot of work to avoid the easy and cheap solution.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    Just run a tensioner. Then your problems are solved. Seems like a whole lot of work to avoid the easy and cheap solution.
    The point of the eccentric hub is to avoid a tensioner.


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  8. #8
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    Yet here we are...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    Yet here we are...
    I was only asking if I was missing an option with my current setup. Thanks for sharing your idea, Iíll pile it up with the others.


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  10. #10
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    Not trying to be a dink but from what I have read the ebb and hub options are very limited in success for non-SS frames. I have two vertical drop out bikes and have gone to tensioner with great success. I am able to go from a 34/13 to a 34/22 with no chain adjustment. It might net be the preferred option but it will certainly be successful

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    Not trying to be a dink but from what I have read the ebb and hub options are very limited in success for non-SS frames. I have two vertical drop out bikes and have gone to tensioner with great success. I am able to go from a 34/13 to a 34/22 with no chain adjustment. It might net be the preferred option but it will certainly be successful
    It was flawless until I changed my gearing, for over a year. Iíll just figure out an adjustment, not changing anything else until the cranks and ring get here this week. Itís a PITA when v-brakes are also involved. Thatís what I get for changing. Thanks for your insight, no worries.


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  12. #12
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    So, I went on a fairly long off-road night ride tonight, and didnít have one hiccup. While it ďlooksĒ not as tight as Iíd like it, it appears to be mechanically sound.


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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    So, I went on a fairly long off-road night ride tonight, and didnít have one hiccup. While it ďlooksĒ not as tight as Iíd like it, it appears to be mechanically sound.


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    I've found chains to wear and lengthen fairly rapidly on my single speed bikes and would guess since your hub is already at its adjustment limit your problem is only going to get worse. If your willing to risk losing your chain (which may involve a crash) there's a good chance after a couple of rides you'll be able to remove the extra link you added and have enough chainstay clearance to eliminate the rub. I personally wouldn't be comfortable running that much slack in my chain and since you don't care to run a tensioner would consider the narrower/less aggressive side knob option the best way to go.
    Mole

  14. #14
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    Your problem can be an issue on any SS bike frame and have run into it with my Kona Unit. When I first built up my Kona, I bought a crank that came with a 32T ring. I used a cog that gave me pretty much the same gear inches as the 34/20 I used on my other bike. The slider was either slammed all the way forward, with the chain tension too tight, or after adding a link, all the way at the end. I was avoiding a half-link, because I wanted to use a DM ring and they seem to all be NW. I also wanted to be able to just use any 8-speed chain and not worry about that one special piece to make things work. I end up switching over to a 34/20 setup, which for me put my sliders in the ideal place of about 80% of the way forward. I had been able to find online, a killer deal on a 34T OneUp Components DM chainring and had an extra 20T cog, so it was not an expensive fix. WI is nice stuff, but you rarely ever find deals on it. Somewhere, I have seen a table that showed chain lengths based on ring/cog size and gear inches. This helped me out. Maybe someone else on here knows what I am talking about. I'll look around and see if I can dig it up.

    Edit. I found the chain length calculating info.

    http://eehouse.org/fixin/index.php

    When you open the page, scroll down and select "HTML form".
    Last edited by BrianU; 06-17-2018 at 01:05 PM. Reason: additional info.

  15. #15
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    Since I would use the rotation of ENO to tension the chain thereby helping to keep the ENO in place as well, I would think it's too loose. However, on my MUSS with a Surly hub and AB Oval I get about that slack when the ring is at a "low" point and have had no issues with the chain popping off the WI freewheel. As long as you can ride with it and the ENO doesn't slip, I'd say you're good.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  16. #16
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    I'm going to give an IKON 2.2 a shot. I like the gearing I am running, not interested in a tensioner, just want to get to the "set it and forget it" point now. The bike is nearing completion and I'd like to stop spending so much time changing and adjusting everything.

    Thank you everyone for taking time to offer your ideas, hope you all had a nice weekend.
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  17. #17
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    What about flipping the chainring? Not sure what the white direct mount setup is like, but i think other direct mount chainrings are "dished". That would give you the few mm of clearance you need.

  18. #18
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    Ikon did the trick. I can now run it far forward in the eccentric cycle with no rubbing, and have good chain tension.





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  19. #19
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    With the White Industries crankset and DM ring...smooth


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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post


    With the White Industries crankset and DM ring...smooth


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    Fancy!

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  21. #21
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    blaklabl, You can use 34:19 combo, that left eccentric hub position exactly as it was in your previous 32:17 setup, and approximate You very close to desired 32:18 gear ratio.

  22. #22
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    But would have had to add a chain link, correct? I'll keep that in mind when I want to spend another $200 on WI chainring and FW
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    But would have had to add a chain link, correct? I'll keep that in mind when I want to spend another $200 on WI chainring and FW
    Yes, one full link, exactly. Rule of Four in action.
    $200 SS aluminium proprietary-mount chainring?!!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpt1 View Post
    Yes, one full link, exactly. Rule of Four in action.
    $200 SS aluminium proprietary-mount chainring?!!
    No, 90 for chainring and 80 for FW. So 170. White Industries shit isnít cheap, but I have lusted after it for a long time.


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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    White Industries shit isnít cheap, but I have lusted after it for a long time.
    Pretty much this exactly.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  26. #26
    lpt1
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    No, 90 for chainring and 80 for FW. So 170. White Industries shit isnít cheap, but I have lusted after it for a long time.


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    You don't need to buy a whole new freewheel, but only 'outer gear' part, it usually cost half of complete freewheel.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpt1 View Post
    You don't need to buy a whole new freewheel, but only 'outer gear' part, it usually cost half of complete freewheel.
    Thank you, that's a good point.

    And as far as the proprietary thing, I *think* the chainring mounting pattern is RF Cinch. I have had a cinch crankset in the past and the spline pattern looks identical, and realistically their attachment/tensioning method on their new M30 cranks and BB is basically the cinch design, so I wouldn't be surprised. I haven't asked if the splines are the same because i have a thick ass expensive chainring to wear out first!
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  28. #28
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    Don't be afraid to go with a half link and ditch the NW chainring and go with a standard non-ramped ring . If your chain line is good and your tension is good, a NW isn't required.

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