chain tension on my SS- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    chain tension on my SS

    How do I know if the chain is too tight? What kind of damage can I do if the chain is too tight?

  2. #2
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    you can cause premature wear on freewheel and freehub bearings if it's too tight.

    I try and keep the movement of the chain to around 1/2" at the chain's loosest point. It can feel different at different points because chainrings and cogs are not perfectly round.

  3. #3
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    Good thing somebody posted this question, this part of singlespeeding to me key, the chain tension needs to be perfect perfect perfect. As said if to tight the hub will be damaged. I go through this often adjusting the chain is like cutting a diamond, must be perfect. I measered my chain tension and I have one inch of play, with a tape measure @ the chain then lift the chain, in the middle between the cog and the chainring, there is one inch of play. Also if too tight you can hear the hub telling you to back off, and the hub will not turn smooth.

  4. #4
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    chain problems

    I had my shop replace my rear cog from an 18 to a 20. they informed me that they may have to replace the chain. I gave them the ok to do so if needed. They didn't change the chain but made some other adjustments to make it fit. Went out riding today and ended up kicking the chain off at least a dozen times. Mostly when pushing hard up hill. Eventually snapping a link. Can anyone tell me what the problem was/is. Was the chain too tight or something else. I have been riding this bike for over 6 months without ever having the chain slip off or any chain related problems. I go from an 18 to 20 tooth cog and I start having all kinds of problems. Is it the chain, the cog, the chain tension or something else.

  5. #5
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    Tensioner or no tensioner- loose chain? Spacers or 1 speed specific hub- did they not set it right? Chain stretch? All could be the cause. Usually if you have a good chain line and are running a 1 speed cog you don't buck chains. If you try to use 8 or 9 speed ramped cogs, you can buck chains.

  6. #6
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    did you notice the chain bouncing around when riding?

    you may have been mashing down when the chain was a little slack...that could have snapped a link.

    can't believe a shop would give you your bike back with bad tension...may be time to look for another shop.

  7. #7
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    I do anything between 1/2 and 3/4 and it feels great. I had done 1" with not issues at all. The tension is hard to set up on my second bike that has a tensioner.

  8. #8
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    some progress

    We may have narrowed down the problem to the new 20 tooth cog. The bike I am having the problem with is a redline monocog flight 29 ss. I also have a redline monocog 29 ss that I had a 20 tooth cog installed and we never had an issue with that. The monocog has a solid cog, while the flight's cog has holes in it (i don't know what else to call them other than holes) making it not as stiff or rigid as the solid cog. When mashing hard up a hill we "think" the weaker cog is flexing just enough to throw the chain. We also put on a new chain that has less "slop" when the chain is engaging with the teeth. The new chain has helped alot. I can't justify changing shops with this isolated problem. They have always been very good to me and they are right on top of this problem trying to get it resolved. A good bike shop, just as in people, are the ones that don't go running for the door when things go bad. It's easy when everything is working. I also want to thank everyone for their help and advise. I learned alot the past two days.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkraft
    We may have narrowed down the problem to the new 20 tooth cog. The bike I am having the problem with is a redline monocog flight 29 ss. I also have a redline monocog 29 ss that I had a 20 tooth cog installed and we never had an issue with that. The monocog has a solid cog, while the flight's cog has holes in it (i don't know what else to call them other than holes) making it not as stiff or rigid as the solid cog. When mashing hard up a hill we "think" the weaker cog is flexing just enough to throw the chain. We also put on a new chain that has less "slop" when the chain is engaging with the teeth. The new chain has helped alot. I can't justify changing shops with this isolated problem. They have always been very good to me and they are right on top of this problem trying to get it resolved. A good bike shop, just as in people, are the ones that don't go running for the door when things go bad. It's easy when everything is working. I also want to thank everyone for their help and advise. I learned alot the past two days.
    Ah, say no more....sounds like yer needs a good thick steel Surly cog. With my MC, I ended up having a rear wheel built with a proper flip flop hub for dual freewheels. Seems to me that having the option of changing gearing and having a backup freewheel was worth the expense

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