chain tension/cog/crank ?s-
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: muddywings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004

    chain tension/cog/crank ?s

    I think I might be mix and matching to many noncompatible parts which is causing me some problems:

    Surly 1x1 with their tensioner (and a standard QR skewer)
    XT hollowtech cranks with orginal 32t middle ring
    Gusset 1-ER single speed conversion kit on a bontrager hub
    XT 9 speed chain (spare I had)

    When I put the gusset supplied 18th cog on, it was really stiff to get the chain on(almost like the teeth were to tall) So as the I would pedal the cranks, or back pedal, the chain never flowed off cog straight off the top or bottom, instead it seem like it would stick till it just got yanked off causing a jerky feeling as I spun the cranks.
    Sooo, I took an old sram cassette, broke it apart and pulled the 18t cog off and used that. But I had a lot of chain slippage on the trail.

    Of note: I tried to make the chainline straighter by moving the hollowtech integrated bottom bracket spacer and putting in on the noncrank side (vs what the manual indicated- crankside) to push the crank closer to the frame to line up the cranks to the cog due to the gusset converion kit having the cog pretty much center of the hub.
    Also the thickness of the supplied gusset cog vs the sram cog was huge.
    I've searched through the threads and it appears the chain should be tight but not piano wire tight (which it was the only was I could keep the chain from slipping while using the thin sram cog)

    So, since I'm still ignorant-
    Do I need a special SS cog?
    Do I need a special SS Chain (vs my 9 speed that I just shorten)
    Simple advice on how to get the chain tightness correct

  2. #2
    Looking to Start Racing
    Reputation: TREK 4 Life's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    I just bought a DMR conversion kit, with a cheapo Tensor. Using my stock SR (CRAP) Crank in the middle ring. SInce the DMR kit came with multiple spacers I was able to fine tune the chain line. If the chainline looks good, then I would look to the tensor. I had it in push-down mode, and it would slip on me. So I switched it to push up and now I have no problems. Works great.

    From what I know, the more chain wrap on the rear cog, the less chain slip your gunna have. Also of note, is to make sure your tensor is aligned properly. Mine wasn't at first and it made one heck of a noise/problem for me. Also you may consider addng another link, or better yet a half link, just to have that proper amount of slack to get the job done right.
    Evolve or Die

  3. #3
    Winston the bike guy
    Reputation: winchaos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    It's probably the 9 speed chain. 9 speed spacing is slightly narrower than the 8 spd which is what I run on my SS bikes. The cog is 3/32" which might be too wide for the chain. I run the sram pc 58 or kmc 610 without any problems.

  4. #4
    Misfit Psycles
    Reputation: nogearshere's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    cogs can be 1/8 or 3/32. 9spd bits are going to be 11/128". I have had luck with 1/8 to 3/32 and limited with 3/32 to 11/128 drives but NEVER 1/8 to 11/128 drives. that would seem to be your problem.

    start by losing the chain - go with a 3/32 chain. try an 8 speed (and down) or if you go ss specific make sure it is 3/32 like the kmc610. this may eliminate the problem, if not the ring has to go too.

    chainline is always important but much more so when using a ramped ring. a poor chainling with a ramped ring will cause it to jump clean off not so much skip, that (skipping) is happening in the rear.
    Expert of the Internet.

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