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  1. #1
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    Chain stretch and frame flex...

    I'm frustrated! I have been threw a couple of new PC-1 chains in the past few months. I have broken one and stretched the other to the point of needing to replace it. I am dropping my chain on almost every ride. And its costing me time on races.

    The chain ring and cog only have minor wear and my chain line is straight. The chain seems to constantly stretch, so I know it has issues. I keep it lubed properly and tensioned well. Through the course of a ride it gets loose to the point I start dropping it.

    Is this a common issue for a PC-1? I have used these in the past without problems.

    Has anyone noticed their frame flexing to the point of stretching a chain? I can only imagine that this could happen with a ti frame, but who knows? I am thinking of selling the frame, but I love how it rides and fits. I have several other friends with Pro29's that aren't having issues. Any thoughts???


    My setup:

    Lynskey Pro 29 frame (sliders)
    XTR cranks
    Spot 32T chain ring
    Surly 19T cog
    Truffle Shuffle

  2. #2
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    I had the problem of flexing to the point of dropping the chain with the PC-1 too. I ponied up for a Dura Ace chain. This completely stopped my dropping issues. I won't ever use a PC-1 again.

  3. #3
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    Funny -- I just took a PC-1 off my steel frame yesterday. I have sliding dropouts, and for a while thought my dropouts were slipping because I was noticing my chain tension felt a little slack, but the dropouts never moved. On Sunday I threw the chain twice, first time ever. When I held the PC-1 up next to the new chain it was obviously stretched out, and like you I was cleaning and lubing it after every ride, have a straight chainline, etc. (My chain wear tool didn't indicate enough wear to change it, but it seemed like a good idea...)

    I replaced it with a Sram 951 and will take it out for its first ride today.

    So is two months -- say 3-4 rides/week, maybe 8-14 miles/ride -- about all one can get out of a chain while SS'ing, or is the PC-1 just junk?

  4. #4
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    I have run SS on two very stiff frames. I am on the heavy side and it is not all fat...

    Never dropped a chain.

    I have used a few different chains and prefer Shimano's CN-7701: not cheap but it seems to last long.

  5. #5
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    it could be that you are using a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 chain ring and cog. instead of buying an expensive chain like the Dura Ace , get cheaper 3.32 cain and see if that works
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  6. #6
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    What is the 1/8 and 3/32 measure on a chain? and would this be an issue with the Surly cog and Spot chain ring?

    Also... I assumed the PC-1 would be stronger and less likely to flex since its a SS specific chain and has no hollow pins.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    What is the 1/8 and 3/32 measure on a chain? and would this be an issue with the Surly cog and Spot chain ring?

    Also... I assumed the PC-1 would be stronger and less likely to flex since its a SS specific chain and has no hollow pins.
    A 3/32 chain is narower so the chain fits the chainring and cog better. I would imagine that the 1/8 chain would move side to side on the thinner 3/32 cog and chain ring. not all 3/32 chains are hoolow pinned.
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  8. #8
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    I am a little on the heavy side (185ish) and like to mash the pedals climbing but I wouldn't consider myself a real powerful or strong rider. I can see the bottom bracket area flexing and it seems like a considerable amount given I cannot find any cracks or flaws with the frame or welds. I'm gonna try another chain and see how things workout.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuck_chorris
    A 3/32 chain is narower so the chain fits the chainring and cog better. I would imagine that the 1/8 chain would move side to side on the thinner 3/32 cog and chain ring. not all 3/32 chains are hoolow pinned.

    Are most of y'all using a 1/8 chain for added "lateral float" between the cog and chainring? I would think a more narrow chain would be easier to throw due to a tighter fit.

    Sram and KMC both have SS specific chains with 1/8 spacing.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    Are most of y'all using a 1/8 chain for added "lateral float" between the cog and chainring? I would think a more narrow chain would be easier to throw due to a tighter fit.

    Sram and KMC both have SS specific chains with 1/8 spacing.
    I use nothing but 3/32 chains (8spd chains) and I weigh 195 and really mash it on the climbs. These chains have never failed on me.

    1/8 chains that i've felt were a lot stiffer side to side, and I could imagine that an inflexible chain would not handle frame flex well and would try to jump off the ring or cog instead. I think a tighter lateral fit on the teeth with a 3/32 chain actually helps avoid throwing it as well

  11. #11
    max_29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    Are most of y'all using a 1/8 chain for added "lateral float" between the cog and chainring? I would think a more narrow chain would be easier to throw due to a tighter fit.

    Sram and KMC both have SS specific chains with 1/8 spacing.

    it's all very simple, really:
    use 3/32 chain for 3/32 cog/ring
    use 1/8 chain for 1/8 cog/ring

    there's nothing like a good fit

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_29
    it's all very simple, really:
    use 3/32 chain for 3/32 cog/ring
    use 1/8 chain for 1/8 cog/ring

    there's nothing like a good fit

    Any idea what size chain a Spot ring and Surly cog are designed to use?
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    Any idea what size chain a Spot ring and Surly cog are designed to use?
    don't know about the ring, but Surly cogs are 3/32"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    What is the 1/8 and 3/32 measure on a chain?
    It's the width.

    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    Also... I assumed the PC-1 would be stronger and less likely to flex since its a SS specific chain and has no hollow pins.
    Not true. 1/8" isn't better than 3/32", and the PC-1 is generally not thought well of.

    From Surly:
    1/2x1/8" chains vs. 1/2x3/32" chains. 1/2x1/8" chains suck. Run whatever you want, but bigger isn't better here. Yeah, they're wider, but according to manufacturer-supplied data, they're not stronger and they are definitely not of better quality. Multi-speed drivetrains is where the bucks are at, and chains that work on such drivetrains are where the manufacturers of chains showcase their innovations and developments in quality. The rollers are better, the plates are better, the pins are stronger, and the construction method (riveting procedure) is better on all multi-speed 3/32" chains. I guess if you grind your chainring and chain down the handrail every night at the local pub, a bigger 1/2x1/8 " chain will last longer, but most of us don't and it won't.

  15. #15
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    Sram PC-870 and all your problems will be gone.

    I am 190 and was riding a ti-frame and originally thought the PC-1 is the only way to go. Those chains are garbage for someone my size. I would wear them out in a few months. I tried out the PC-870 and it lasted the entire season


    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    I am a little on the heavy side (185ish) and like to mash the pedals climbing but I wouldn't consider myself a real powerful or strong rider. I can see the bottom bracket area flexing and it seems like a considerable amount given I cannot find any cracks or flaws with the frame or welds. I'm gonna try another chain and see how things workout.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    It's the width.


    Not true. 1/8" isn't better than 3/32", and the PC-1 is generally not thought well of.

    From Surly:
    1/2x1/8" chains vs. 1/2x3/32" chains. 1/2x1/8" chains suck. Run whatever you want, but bigger isn't better here. Yeah, they're wider, but according to manufacturer-supplied data, they're not stronger and they are definitely not of better quality. Multi-speed drivetrains is where the bucks are at, and chains that work on such drivetrains are where the manufacturers of chains showcase their innovations and developments in quality. The rollers are better, the plates are better, the pins are stronger, and the construction method (riveting procedure) is better on all multi-speed 3/32" chains. I guess if you grind your chainring and chain down the handrail every night at the local pub, a bigger 1/2x1/8 " chain will last longer, but most of us don't and it won't.

    Thanks for the info. I am gonna try an 8 speed Sram chain. Hopefully this will take care of things. I'll be on the mountain bike for 100 miles or so in the next few days. I will update things after the weekend
    Last edited by cavitykilla; 05-25-2010 at 12:47 PM.
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  17. #17
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    I have ONLY used PC-1 chains on my SS and always with 3/32 rings & cogs....I've never dropped a chain or noticed considerable stretch....I'm 185 lbs....?? I suppose you get different results with every situation though....

  18. #18
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    another vote for 8spd 3/32 chain. I'll never even think of trying another single speed chain again.
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  19. #19
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    I've used a KMC Z610hx 1/2 x 3/32" for several of my SS bikes and I've never dropped a chain, just a bit of stretch initially and made sure there was enough tension.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    another vote for 8spd 3/32 chain. I'll never even think of trying another single speed chain again.
    this

  21. #21
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    I am thinking that the PC-1 is just a steaming POS. I put my first one on a couple of weeks ago complete with new chainring and rear sprocket. I have to re-tension after every ride, I checked it today and it is already stretched .015" after less than 75 miles. The rides have all been in dry conditions and the chain is lubed before every ride. Up until now I have been using 9 speed SRAM chains and have not had a problem, thought I would try one of these for added strength and life.

  22. #22
    max_29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Furrner
    I am thinking that the PC-1 is just a steaming POS. I put my first one on a couple of weeks ago complete with new chainring and rear sprocket. I have to re-tension after every ride, I checked it today and it is already stretched .015" after less than 75 miles. The rides have all been in dry conditions and the chain is lubed before every ride. Up until now I have been using 9 speed SRAM chains and have not had a problem, thought I would try one of these for added strength and life.

    there are 2 makes of PC-1. they differ in look and price. the one that's nickel plated costs more, but is quite durable.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    another vote for 8spd 3/32 chain. I'll never even think of trying another single speed chain again.

    I will be putting a new 8 speed Sram chain on sometime this week. But I am curious why everyone has been recommending an 8 speed chain and not a 9 speed chain? Are there any differences in width? materials? ect...
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  24. #24
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    yea ive noticed that the 1/8 chain i had stretched more than my comfort zone allowed, i when for a 36:16 ratio to a 36:17 ratio with just the stretching of the chain!! yea yea i know the chain doesn't actually stretch but the pins just deform
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    I will be putting a new 8 speed Sram chain on sometime this week. But I am curious why everyone has been recommending an 8 speed chain and not a 9 speed chain? Are there any differences in width? materials? ect...
    they're usually a bit cheaper.

  26. #26
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    8-spd chain roolz. Other chain droolz.

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  27. #27
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    Obligatory +1 on multi-speed chains. They last longer and are stronger. Keep an eye out for Dura-Ace 9spd chains - under $30, and really smooth.

  28. #28
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    PC1 really suck, a lot. I just built up another SS, had a PC1 laying around that was fairly new. I put it on and it was pretty tight. Worked well for 2 rides until the chain was so slack, I was dropping it every 100 yards if I didn't baby it. Went home and put on my old Wipperman Whitestar chain ($14). No more drops for the last few rides, with some serious hammering. Chain looseness is about the same as with the PC1.
    I had this same issue on my Niner. Same solution as well.
    The SRAM 8sp chains didn't work for me as well. I used a cheap pc58 though.

    I'll give the xtr/da chain a run next time. It is at least 100g lighter than the wipperman (the thing looks like it is made for high powered go karts).

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_29
    there are 2 makes of PC-1. they differ in look and price. the one that's nickel plated costs more, but is quite durable.
    Mine is the Nickel plated version.

  30. #30
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    I run KMC BMX chains all the time. Never broke or threw one. Change 'em twice per season. Also go to your LBS and have them check your chain line with a Park chain line tool to get it 100% perfect. When I built me 29er my chainline looked perfect, but after using the indicator I had to move my chain ring to the inside of crank arm to dial it 100%. Zero problems after that. Good luck

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavitykilla
    What is the 1/8 and 3/32 measure on a chain? and would this be an issue with the Surly cog and Spot chain ring?

    Also... I assumed the PC-1 would be stronger and less likely to flex since its a SS specific chain and has no hollow pins.
    Chain specs:

    Color Black or Silver
    Speeds Single Speed
    Chain Compatibility 1/2" x 1/8"
    Weight 332 g
    Width 7.8 mm
    Links 114 links

    So, it's an 1/8" chain and you're using it on 3/32" cogs....not good. Get some new cogs and try a KMC z610hx (came stock on my Mary SS with 32T aluminum chainring and 20T stamped steel cog) worked well for about 9 months of frequent riding:

    http://www.kmcchain.us/kmcproduct.as...id=54&ssid=667

    or 810 (what I'm running now with Surly 32T chainring and Surly 21T cog):

    http://www.kmcchain.us/kmcproduct.as...id=43&ssid=669

    both been good so far.
    Last edited by Natedogz; 05-26-2010 at 09:47 AM.
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  32. #32
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    another vote for sram 8speed chains. another thing to consider is crank flex, but i see that you are running an xtr crank, so that should be fine. i was dropping chains a lot on my stock monocog before i switched out the cheap/flexy squaretaper crank for an outboard crank. problem solved.

    i've found that the rollers wear out long before the chain stretches (using a stretch tool) enough to warrant replacement with the 8spd chains.

  33. #33
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    Well the POS PC-1 is coming off the bike. I have a total of less than 200 miles on the chain, every 15-20 miles it needs re-tensioning, stretch is now over .02" (measured the correct way). I used to go several hundred miles/ a couple of months between adjustments on the 9 speed chain I had on before. For the record I weigh 180+-, the chain was put on with a new steel chain ring and and SS King cog and was cleaned and lubed before every ride.

    Thinking about putting a complaint into SRAM I am so disappointed with it. I have been very happy with their multi-speed chains, but this thing has been a joke.

  34. #34
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    A bit off topic, but considering that I remove both wheels every time I pack my bike into my car—I always have to put the chain back onto the gears and re-tension before each ride, so I will never know if the chain is stretching or going slack without actually measuring it—how do you clean your chains without removing it off the chainring and cog? Toothbrush and degreaser?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by hchchch
    A bit off topic, but considering that I remove both wheels every time I pack my bike into my car—I always have to put the chain back onto the gears and re-tension before each ride, so I will never know if the chain is stretching or going slack without actually measuring it—how do you clean your chains without removing it off the chainring and cog? Toothbrush and degreaser?
    Sram's Powerlink makes chain removal & reinstallation easy. I have an electric chain cleaner, made with an old rotisserie motor I got at Goodwill for 50 cents. 20 minutes on that thing and the chain looks brand new again.






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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    Sram's Powerlink makes chain removal & reinstallation easy. I have an electric chain cleaner, made with an old rotisserie motor I got at Goodwill for 50 cents. 20 minutes on that thing and the chain looks brand new again.

    --Sparty
    You should have spent the money on your retirement fund.


    I think everyone is overdoing chains a little. I tend to use the cheapest 8 speed I can track down, but I've been using a PC-1 recently and really stomping on it at 205. There are a lot of things at play here- SS specific chainring and cog, proper tension...

    If I drink coffee and eat a great sandwich before riding my chain never drops.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth
    You should have spent the money on your retirement fund.
    I think it IS an investment toward his retirement. Nice craftsmanship Sparty. I'd like to see you hook up a cartridge bearing cleaning chamber too, using the same drive line. I can share the patent with you

  38. #38
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    P.S. That pink toothbrush is my regular one.

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  39. #39
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by metaljim
    FWIW chains do not stretch.

    Just being pedantic.
    OK....

    ... they just become longer than they were originally

  41. #41
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    SRAM PC-7X......you will have no more worries....

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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by hchchch
    A bit off topic, but considering that I remove both wheels every time I pack my bike into my car—I always have to put the chain back onto the gears and re-tension before each ride, so I will never know if the chain is stretching or going slack without actually measuring it—how do you clean your chains without removing it off the chainring and cog? Toothbrush and degreaser?
    Powerlink plus Harbor Freight hot bath ultrasonic cleaner, blown dry with compressor and then lubed. I have the Paragon sliders so even after removing the wheel tension remains the same.

    That is awesome Sparticus!

  43. #43
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    I've long wondered why the KMC Z610HZ isn't more popular. It's cheap, works great, and lasts forever (for me). They're hard to find, so I recently had to buy/use a SRAM 850 chain for a while - it busted after 5 rides! I've never busted a 610 (and I use them waaaay past when the shop tells me I need a new one).

  44. #44
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    Ok I went the extreme cheap route and I'm testing a Walmart Bell chain. It's a 1/2 x 1/8 single-speed chain. I've used similar ones on my kids BMX bikes and they have taken some abuse. For the $7.00 spent it's worth a try.... you never know....

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgfthntr
    Ok I went the extreme cheap route and I'm testing a Walmart Bell chain. It's a 1/2 x 1/8 single-speed chain. I've used similar ones on my kids BMX bikes and they have taken some abuse. For the $7.00 spent it's worth a try.... you never know....

    I have one of those on my current setup , if this breaks anytime soon im going straight for a wipperman chain
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgfthntr
    Ok I went the extreme cheap route and I'm testing a Walmart Bell chain. It's a 1/2 x 1/8 single-speed chain. I've used similar ones on my kids BMX bikes and they have taken some abuse. For the $7.00 spent it's worth a try.... you never know....
    "Those who shop at Walmart are destined to work there." --HankHank


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  47. #47
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    sram 8 speed chains are the best. after riding the chain for the first couple of rides i have to tension it and then after that once a month for 3-4 months depending on how much i have been riding. then once it goes past the .5 mark on the chain checker tool it goes in the garbage and on goes a new chain.

    Sparty: it seems you have alot of spare time on your hands for being an er doctor
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  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    "Those who shop at Walmart are destined to work there." --HankHank


    ugh I hate going to walmart, so many weird people, but you cant beat the prices they have on flaming hot Cheetos
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuck_chorris
    ugh I hate going to walmart, so many weird people, but you cant beat the prices they have on flaming hot Cheetos
    check out peopleofwalmart.com, its my favorite website next to mtbr.
    Ride & Smile

  50. #50
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    Interesting information, thanks all.

    I've been running the nickel plated PC-1 for a couple years without issue.

    Have seen hollow pins 9sp chains snap on geared bikes from riders not putting down the SS power (tho likely a shift issue)

    BMX racing puts a stupid amount of power into chains on starts, and chain snaps are rare.

    A worn cog or chain ring or both will lengthen a chain in no time. (just stating the obvious...)

    Surly says "9 speed chains are where it is as tech advancements go those products" while most in this thread are saying 7-8 speed chains seem to work best.

    I just had a serious injury due to chain drop, and really want to avoid it again. Lots of info points that I am trying to bring together.

    P

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    Interesting information, thanks all.

    I've been running the nickel plated PC-1 for a couple years without issue.

    Have seen hollow pins 9sp chains snap on geared bikes from riders not putting down the SS power (tho likely a shift issue)

    BMX racing puts a stupid amount of power into chains on starts, and chain snaps are rare.

    A worn cog or chain ring or both will lengthen a chain in no time. (just stating the obvious...)

    Surly says "9 speed chains are where it is as tech advancements go those products" while most in this thread are saying 7-8 speed chains seem to work best.

    I just had a serious injury due to chain drop, and really want to avoid it again. Lots of info points that I am trying to bring together.

    P
    none of the chains suggested here are hollow-pin. Only the most expensive geared chains have that. You are correct that shifting can create large stresses; the chain is often already under a side load from the chainline in a given gear combination, and then shifting tries to bend the chain further to the side and pull it to a different ring or cog.

    chain snaps aren't really the problem here, just internal wear on the rollers and pins that leads to "stretch". Chains with lesser quality internals will wear quicker, but so will any chain that isn't kept properly clean and lubed.

    Current 8 speed chains are pretty much identical to current 9 speed chains in technology. Most of us go for 8 speed because they are a few $$ cheaper.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    none of the chains suggested here are hollow-pin...

    chain snaps aren't really the problem here, just internal wear...

    Current 8 speed chains are pretty much identical to current 9 speed chains in technology. Most of us go for 8 speed because they are a few $$ cheaper.
    Thanks, that brings some clarity.

    P

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    Thanks, that brings some clarity.

    P
    glad to help. "Clarity" is my middle name. It used to be "Danger" but my license was revoked because I'm not awesome enough. Oh well

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    "Those who shop at Walmart are destined to work there." --HankHank



    Hi and welcome to Walmart...... LOL

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    glad to help. "Clarity" is my middle name. It used to be "Danger" but my license was revoked because I'm not awesome enough. Oh well
    "Moderately Dangerous" might be a good option.

    P

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    "Moderately Dangerous" might be a good option.

    P
    I'll have to look into that. Problem is everyone knows us singlespeeders never leave the ground or ride hard trails

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I'll have to look into that. Problem is everyone knows us singlespeeders never leave the ground or ride hard trails
    boomn, please change your title from "mtbr member" to "moderately dangerous."

    --Sparty
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    We don't quit riding because we get old.
    We get old because we quit riding.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mighty Matt
    ...

    Sparty: it seems you have alot of spare time on your hands for being an er doctor
    I am a practicing meaty urologist, but spend most of my time on the street corner holding a cardboard sign that says, "Anything helps. God bless" because it pays so much better.

    That is... whenever I'm not riding around town on my Next FS bike with bar ends pointed at the sky.

    --Sparty
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    We don't quit riding because we get old.
    We get old because we quit riding.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    boomn, please change your title from "mtbr member" to "moderately dangerous."

    --Sparty
    "Mothers, lock up your daughters. Daughters, lock up your MILSWANCAs" I am now "moderately dangerous"

    what's the worst that could happen?

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    "Mothers, lock up your daughters. Daughters, lock up your MILSWANCAs" I am now "moderately dangerous"

    what's the worst that could happen?

    this reminds me of the ole AC/DC tune"lock up your daughter , lock up your wife , lock up the back door and run for your life . the man is back in town, so dont you mess around"
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  61. #61
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    forgive me for digging up an old thread, but I'd like to ask advice/opinions on a chain issue i have.

    Current setup: Salsa 32T chainring, 18T Boone cog
    Current chain: KMC X9SL (well used)

    With the above setup, I got zero problems. But since the chain was getting a bit long in the tooth, I decided to replace it with another KMC X9SL (gold version was all they had in the LBS).

    With light pressure on the pedals everything's peachy, but once you put a bit of power down there's a crunching sound!

    Replaced the chain with a Connex 9 speed, and same sound.

    Replaced chain ring with one from a geared crankset, sound's still there.

    Lubed both chains, still there.

    Rode around the block a few times, crunching away, hoping the new chains would "stretch" and fit...still there.

    Chainline is dialed. Chain isn't tight with both new chains (Paragon sliders)

    Reverted to my trusty old KMC X9SL, retensioned chain, and it's all quiet again.

    I can't seem to find a logical explanation for the sound - is it because the new chains need to "bed in" to the chainring? Sound is coming from the crank area for sure.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by agu
    forgive me for digging up an old thread, but I'd like to ask advice/opinions on a chain issue i have.

    Current setup: Salsa 32T chainring, 18T Boone cog
    Current chain: KMC X9SL (well used)

    With the above setup, I got zero problems. But since the chain was getting a bit long in the tooth, I decided to replace it with another KMC X9SL (gold version was all they had in the LBS).

    With light pressure on the pedals everything's peachy, but once you put a bit of power down there's a crunching sound!

    Replaced the chain with a Connex 9 speed, and same sound.

    Replaced chain ring with one from a geared crankset, sound's still there.

    Lubed both chains, still there.

    Rode around the block a few times, crunching away, hoping the new chains would "stretch" and fit...still there.

    Chainline is dialed. Chain isn't tight with both new chains (Paragon sliders)

    Reverted to my trusty old KMC X9SL, retensioned chain, and it's all quiet again.

    I can't seem to find a logical explanation for the sound - is it because the new chains need to "bed in" to the chainring? Sound is coming from the crank area for sure.
    How old/worn is the chainring? How much is your chain stretched over 12 inches?

    A chain that is too worn out and stretched will wear out the ring to match it, and new chains might not fit properly anymore

  63. #63
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    thanks for the reply. I'll measure the old chain. and try to post photos of the chainring as well.

    thing is, I put on a new 32T ring from a geared crankset, to match the new chain, and it still made the sound.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by agu
    thanks for the reply. I'll measure the old chain. and try to post photos of the chainring as well.

    thing is, I put on a new 32T ring from a geared crankset, to match the new chain, and it still made the sound.
    hm, that does point to other possible problems

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    hm, that does point to other possible problems
    it's really a mystery, and on 2 brand new chains to boot. It can't be frame flex as it makes the sound even if I apply pressure on the pedals while seated (don't need to crank too hard).

    it's a crunchy kind of sound, which means it's several things rubbing against each other - my guess is chainring teeth to chain's plates or rollers...

    they seem to mesh pretty nicely though, with no lateral play.

    i'll try to let the chain sit in some freshly boiled water to loosen up (hahaha I know, a long shot but at this point i'm willing to try anything!)

  66. #66
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    Can you try another cog?

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by perttime
    Can you try another cog?
    OK I'll see what I have lying around here!

    the sound seems to come from the crank though..

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    That's why they always say to replace chain and rings together. Obviously not the case with the boone but with the salsa........yes


    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    How old/worn is the chainring? How much is your chain stretched over 12 inches?

    A chain that is too worn out and stretched will wear out the ring to match it, and new chains might not fit properly anymore

  69. #69
    agu
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    ok, here's what happened...

    swapped the Boone 18T for a Homebrewed 19T, put on the new X9SL, used the 32T Salsa chainring...

    Noise is GONE!

    Replaced the 32T Salsa with a 33T Homebrewed (closer to the original 32x18 combo), and drivetrain is smooth and best of all silent.

    Turns out it was the Boone cog that was the culprit. Been using it for almost 4 years. It also has some play at the cassette carrier/cog spline interface, whereas the Homebrewed was a really nice, tight fit.

    Thanks again for all the suggestions and help!

  70. #70
    local trails rider
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    The chainring and cog on my Suburban Assault Vehicle are already a few chains old and the drivetrain is getting a bit noisy. I have new parts already but I think I'll ride these to death ... or until I cannot stand it any more ... and then replace chainring, cog and chain.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

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