Chain skipping problem on up hill- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,362

    Chain skipping problem on up hill

    I swapped to SS half a year ago, and always have problem with the chain skipping. Chain is sram, half a year old at that time, front is running a Truvative crank and stock middle ring. Rear cog I can't recall the brand, 19 tooth, costed about 30 bucks. I have a performance forte ss converter chain tensioner on. Most of the work was done by local bike shop.

    The problem seems to happen everytime I am trying to spin fast up steep hills. However, most of the time it doens't happen when I am slowly mashing the pedal. Happens both on road and off road. Does not happen if I am on flat or if the bike is on the work stand.

    Anyone know what is causing this and if there are remedies? New chain?

  2. #2
    Full Tilt Boogie
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,650
    New chain, proper SS chain ring upfront, short chain ring bolts, proper chain line and proper chain tension. Should be pretty cheap, and will solve all possible problems.
    I sell bikes here. Check out the Blog here. Facebook.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,362
    There is such a thing as SS chainring?

    I think my prob. is prob. in the back since it feels like a badly adjusted derailleur on a geared bike.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    23

    Skipping

    I have the same Tensioner and had the same problem. I shortened the chain by one link which pushed the Tensioner up, now there is correct tension and no more skipping. Mine used to skip on pavement whenever I cranked down hard or when climbing.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    88
    Quote Originally Posted by Loll
    There is such a thing as SS chainring?
    Yes. They're not ramped to reduce chain skipping/slippage.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: zipzit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    399
    Its is possible that the freewheel is a little bit loose. $30 freewheel tends to be one with cups / cones and simple ball bearings. Freeplay is adjusted by the use of thin shims at the time of manufacture. If you take the wheel off of the bike, and flex the freewheel sprocket is there a lot of freeplay? (call that gear wobble?)

    I don't think its anything to worry about, but it is unnerving. You can 'feel' something in the drivetrain when under load... kind of a 'clicking feel' once in awhile.

    Could that be it?
    --zip.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,362
    Oh, I mean 30 dollars cog. I just checked. Everything is still as tightly assembled as when I first got it back from the shop.

    I am starting to narrow it down to 2 things. Either the chain needs to be replaced, or the tensioner is not doing it's job. I remember the mechanic did say something about shortening yet one more chainlink. But I forgot what or why he suggested it for. He did mention the chain is already shortened 1 additional link than he like to already.

    Regarding the Sram chain. He told me it was stretched beyond the usual length and I need to replace it with a new chain. But the funny thing is, this was on a brand new bike purchased 6 months ago at that time I brought it into the shop. Given it was a lower end Cannondale, nonetheless, 6 months lifetime on a chain just seem way too short considering this is a well lubed second bike of mine that I ride may be once a wk for 10 easy geared miles at the local trails before the conversion.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    171
    It's got to be the chain, which suggests that it may be best to replace to cog at the same time. Sometimes you cant visualize the wear on the cog. I expect to see "shark fins" or asymmetrical teeth. But the cog can be worn so evenly that it still looks good. For measure, I change the cassette and chain on my geared bike every season.

    My suggestion is if the cog is steel, change the chain and see if that works. If the cog is alloy then change them both.

    benzy

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.