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  1. #1
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    chain drop w/ road cog

    I wanted to try out a 17t cog from my current 18t today when doing hill repeats. I had an old Shimano 108 casette and grabbed the 17t cog from that and installed it.

    I did a bunch of climbs with no chain issue, on the way back to the car on a rocky/bumpy false flat my chain dropped twice, both times from the rear.

    Chain is tensioned fine and have never had any issues. Is this simply a problem with running a cassette as a single speed cog, or is that normally possible?

    I'll likely just spring for a proper singlespeed cog and run a 17t properly.

    What are the cheapest online options for cogs? Nothing fancy needed?

  2. #2
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    Surly
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    These cheap stamped steel cogs have worked for me. Don't even think of using one with an aluminum freehub!
    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...&category=1569

  5. #5
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    I just purchased a Surly 17t off ebay for a great price and i'll likely get the On One 16t since their prices are great.

    I was happy to find out that my rear hub is a singlespeed hub w/ a steel freehub. It a plain unstamped black hub, not sure of the brand but it's engagement is poor.

  6. #6
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    May be a chainline issue. Measure it correctly instead of eyeballing it. The tutorial is a sticky. Good luck.

  7. #7
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    Cogs from cassettes are usually ramped to aid in shifting, and the fact that it is old makes me think it is probably worn as well, so not too surprising it would jump on rougher terrain. Sounds like you will get dialed in with the surly. Surly is all I run and have never had an issue.

  8. #8
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    Yup, it's definitely ramped. I'll just wait out for the 17t surly to come in the mail. The 18t I had i'm pretty sure was a surly and it had much deeper teeth and obviously was un ramped.

    I eyeball my chain line and it seems spot on. I wasn't aware it was something that could be measured?

  9. #9
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    it's the shift ramps.

    for anyone else; in my experience using a ramped front ring works pretty well but a ramped rear cog leads to lots of dropped chains.

  10. #10
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    Let's see if anyone can help identify the type of freehub body I have on my unmarked SS rear hub.

    It has a shimano cut/groove type body but has splines/rings going around the end of the body that let's a fixie type lockring thread onto. It does not use a tradition casette type lock ring.

    The cog the bike came w/ is a traditional shimano/sram type not a threaded. What is also weird is that there are. No spacers that I can see but the cog will only go on about mid way as the splines stop about mid way down the free hub almost like what seems to be a permanent spacer.

    I'd like to check the chain line and add spacers if needed. I'm not aware of this type of freehub body but does this mean I could also run a threaded cog if I wanted to?

    Anyone with info on this type of freehub please let me know what i'm working with.

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