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  1. #1
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    Chain adhering to chainring

    Had a weird issue last night that I'm wondering if anybody else has seen. Here's the setup: Surly Ice Cream Truck with through-axle adjustable-position rear dropout, bolt-on through axles, SRAM PC7x chain, Surly rear cog, Absoluteblack oval chainring. Before last night I had been on a few rides with this setup with no issues.

    The drive side dropout predictably gets pulled towards the crank if the bolt on the through axle isn't tight enough. Last night during a ride I dropped the chain (it didn't break, just came off the chainring). My conclusion was that chain tension must not be high enough and the tire looked a little crooked so I loosened the through axle, pulled the wheel back to tighten the chain as tight as I could get it on the trail, and re-tightend through axle bolts.

    After that adjustment, i noticed a grinding sound when pedaling forward or backward. The chain appeared to be sticking to the front chainring: instead of "leaving the chainring" in a straight line at the bottom of the ring, a few links of the chain would ride back up the chainring and didn't leave it until about the 7 o'clock position as opposed to the normal 6 o'clock. This wasn't just certain links (like stuck links), the whole chain was doing it. It happened when pedaling forward or backward, with or without load. Adjusting the dropouts to slacken the chain didn't help.

    I got the bike home and changed the chain to a new SRAM 8-speed. The issue is no longer present. When removing the old chain, I had to pry each link off the chainring.

    Did I deform the old chain by having the tension too tight? Might this have damaged by chainring as well? Or was something else going on?

  2. #2
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    Narrow wide chainrings are just that. They need to correspond with the links according. Usually they will find their own home without much effort, but I guess if you were to force it you will end up with a wide tooth stuffed into the narrow link.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  3. #3
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    No way would you get your chain links switched around on a narrow wide ring. In my experience, you'd have to hammer the inner links onto the wide teeth to get them on.

    If miraculously you did, it certainly wouldn't leave the ring when you pedaled.

  4. #4
    WillWorkForTrail
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    I wouldn't jump straight to having managed to get the narrow part of the chain over the wide teeth. Rather, it sounds like you may have twisted the chain, or maybe you had a chain ring strike on a rock and mangled a couple links. Anyhow, if a new chain works, move on.

  5. #5
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    This post made me curious, so I took a Race Face Narrow Wide chainring to the 1/8" inch chain on my commuter and it looks like it is plausible that the OP mounted the chain incorrectly. If this did happen, I would probably replace the chain and inspect the chainring carefully. All of the links are probably loosened on the pins.

  6. #6
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    One thing to consider here is the AB oval chainring is most likely machined for 11speed. Not sure the width of an 11speed chain but guessing narrower than 1/8" and definately way narrower than an 8 speed chain the op replaced it with. What the op describes, especially having to pry the chain off, sure sounds like it got "crosschained".
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  7. #7
    Downcountry AF
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    One thing to consider here is the AB oval chainring is most likely machined for 11speed. Not sure the width of an 11speed chain but guessing narrower than 1/8" and definately way narrower than an 8 speed chain the op replaced it with. What the op describes, especially having to pry the chain off, sure sounds like it got "crosschained".
    I run an AB oval with an 8 speed chain no problem. Been doing that for a while. The Term crosschain refers to geared drivetrains, using the inner chainring with the outter-most cog on a cassette or vice versa. It has nothing to do with a SS where the chainline is always perfect.

    I agree otherwise, sounds like the OP just got his chain on the chainring out of sync with the NW teeth.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Anyhow, if a new chain works, move on.
    ^ this
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  8. #8
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    Yeah, wasn't refering to chainline at all but how the corresponding widths play together. Should have invented a new word.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willum View Post
    Had a weird issue last night that I'm wondering if anybody else has seen. Here's the setup: Surly Ice Cream Truck with through-axle adjustable-position rear dropout, bolt-on through axles, SRAM PC7x chain, Surly rear cog, Absoluteblack oval chainring. Before last night I had been on a few rides with this setup with no issues.

    The drive side dropout predictably gets pulled towards the crank if the bolt on the through axle isn't tight enough. Last night during a ride I dropped the chain (it didn't break, just came off the chainring). My conclusion was that chain tension must not be high enough and the tire looked a little crooked so I loosened the through axle, pulled the wheel back to tighten the chain as tight as I could get it on the trail, and re-tightend through axle bolts.

    After that adjustment, i noticed a grinding sound when pedaling forward or backward. The chain appeared to be sticking to the front chainring: instead of "leaving the chainring" in a straight line at the bottom of the ring, a few links of the chain would ride back up the chainring and didn't leave it until about the 7 o'clock position as opposed to the normal 6 o'clock. This wasn't just certain links (like stuck links), the whole chain was doing it. It happened when pedaling forward or backward, with or without load. Adjusting the dropouts to slacken the chain didn't help.

    I got the bike home and changed the chain to a new SRAM 8-speed. The issue is no longer present. When removing the old chain, I had to pry each link off the chainring.

    Did I deform the old chain by having the tension too tight? Might this have damaged by chainring as well? Or was something else going on?
    Crazy
    I had the same issue last night on the trail. My set up is/was a oval WT narrow slide with a WT aluminum cog 32x18 and a SRAM SS Specific chain. Since day one every now and then I would hear and feel a noise from the chain ring that seemed like maybe the chain was trying to jump... Usually only after a bumpy section of roots. It would be a loud ping then back to normal.
    Last night I was riding and all of the sudden the chain completely bound to the ring. Had to take rear wheel off and even still pull the chain off the front ring. It happened more than once. My on the trail diagnosis was not enough tension and chain jumped off, then timing of chain off for the narrow wide. I tightened slack and seemed to have helped. I wonder though now if it's because of the singlespeed chain on narrow wide. If so and I use a 10 sp chain won't I run into issues with rear cog spacing?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    One thing to consider here is the AB oval chainring is most likely machined for 11speed. Not sure the width of an 11speed chain but guessing narrower than 1/8" and definately way narrower than an 8 speed chain the op replaced it with. What the op describes, especially having to pry the chain off, sure sounds like it got "crosschained".
    3/32", so 1/32" narrower than a 1/8" chain. 8spd, 9spd, 10spd, 11spd and now 12spd chains are all 3/32" internal width. The overall width, or thickness of the outer plates, varies between gear counts.

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