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  1. #1
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    Carbon seatpost comfort

    Saturday I did a seatpost test. I did a lap with the aluminum American Classic (old style not the new) then I swapped it for the LP Composites carbon post I picked up in January. The first thing I noticed as I intentionally bounced on it in the parking lot was that the LP post flexed. A lot. In fact it was enough I could see it with the nekkid eye. Then I did the same lap followed by another to see if it felt any different. Maybe.

    So what I'm wondering is this- Who else put a carbon post on their XC hardtail and had their butt feel better?

    And, while I'm at it, has anyone had one break? I had a Campy Record CF post in my Seven Axiom break. But it was silly thin CF compared to what the LP weave.
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    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

  2. #2
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    early cf seatposts had questionable performance off road, but the newer cf seatposts are very strong, flexible,and reliable. i run cf seatposts on almost all my bikes except a couple of 'em. however... i would be really careful buying a used one. inspect it VERY VERY thoroughly for cracks and stress marks (which resemble stretch marks). while cf is strong, it is also somewhat delicate. when it takes a hard, violent impact (such as crashing) it can develop hairline cracks at the stress junctures. (such as insertion point into the seat tube)

    also, i wouldnt try to ride any thin cf road post off road. you already know why...

    despite common belief, cf doesnt absorb vibrations, it deflects them. so while cf seat posts are comfy, they do still transmit some vibration... although DRAMATICALLY less than aluminum seatposts. aluminum posts do not flex and are excellent conductors of vibrations and impact.

    titanium, on the other hand, dampens/absorbs vibrations and has a very silky ride. these you can buy used more safely because titanium literally has an infinite fatigue life. you would really have to beat the hell outta a ti seatpost to destroy it. one of the bikes i run it on is a scandium frame kona kula primo fixed gear mtn bike with kelly fork and i love it! ti post makes it very, VERY plush to ride. so plush, in fact, that when i started riding it i kept checking to see if my rear tire was low!!! it made THAT MUCH of a difference over the cf post. only a few grams more than a cf post (if'n yer a weight weenie) but your arse will thank you.

    although a few more bikes in the stable are getting a ti post, some wont. the only reason being aesthetics. colored frames with blacked out components, and i dont want to take off the black cf seatposts for silver ti one.

    oh, one other thing. if youre riding an aluminum frame DEFINITELY go for the ti. with the exception of a couple of old beater bikes, some suspension mtn bikes, and a vintage technium road bike all of my bikes either have scandium or steel frames, which dont transmit as much vibration to the seatpost to begin with. this is why i stick with the cf posts for aesthetics. all the aluminum frame rigid bikes, however, are getting ti seatposts.

    any good cf post from raceface, easton, etc. will hold up wonderfully. if you get a bontrager post make sure its full carbon. the acc models have an aluminum core, and while its a softer ride than an aluminum post its not quite as comfy as a full carbon post.

    but for the happiest arse on the rigid steel bike with cf fork pictured, choose ti.
    Last edited by monogod; 03-19-2007 at 07:56 AM.
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  3. #3
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    I dont know. I have a Titanium Titec seatpost that bent. I have it on a steel monocog. I wasnt doing anything hard core, no wreck, just notced it was starting to curve. It still works, but I too am trying to weigh the CF vs AL seatpost. my issue is its a 26.8mm post. Not many options in either. Sette makes a post this small, but not sure I trust them. I may just go AL, and let the steel do the work.

  4. #4
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    I know this is not what you are asking, but I broke an Easaton EC70 installing it on my bike! User error - I tightened the seat clamp too tight. I did ride it anyway for a bit (it was a crack inside of the frame) and it did feel really good.

    I then moved on to a Moots ti post. It made my bike feel great. I eventually sold it when I went steel 29er (it was actually too comfortable), but more than likely I will buy another soon.

    Not cheap, but well worth the money.
    Last edited by Fort James; 03-19-2007 at 02:41 PM.
    Thanks to www.fortframes.com

  5. #5
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    I love sette posts - never had a problem. I can vouch for the better aluminum one, thought I've never tried the cheaper one or the carbon one.

  6. #6
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    i was looking at the sette APX carbon ($50). One of very few posts that would fit. So id love to hear if carbon posts really make much difference on a steel frame.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    i was looking at the sette APX carbon ($50). One of very few posts that would fit. So id love to hear if carbon posts really make much difference on a steel frame.
    enormous! you wont go back to aluminum.

    the only aluminum post i ride now is in my fs ss.
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  8. #8
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    so even on a steel frame it would help?

    I know it does on my old Aluminum Hard tail.

  9. #9
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    I ride one on my Easton Ultralight race-tubed 29er...





    Frankly I noticed the seatpost, but less than the 29" tires LOL...kept thinking my tires were flat LOL.

    This post would move from the bianchi to the new Sinister, but I won't need a setback post...it will get a thomson (just because I'm two cheap to buy another K force LOL).

    I'm 215#s and this post has been great!
    unityhandbuilt

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    so even on a steel frame it would help?

    I know it does on my old Aluminum Hard tail.
    enormous! you wont go back to aluminum.

    the only aluminum post i ride now is in my fs ss.
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  11. #11
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    tozovr, what size is your post? maybe its the size I am looking for.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod
    enormous! you wont go back to aluminum.

    the only aluminum post i ride now is in my fs ss.
    thanks!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    tozovr, what size is your post? maybe its the size I am looking for.
    what make is your frame?
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  14. #14
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    I put an Easton CT2 on my bike. It felt exactly the same as the crappy generic Al post that it replaced.
    Since when did the phrase "invest in" come to mean the same as "buy"?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    tozovr, what size is your post? maybe its the size I am looking for.
    27.2 IIRC
    unityhandbuilt

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod
    what make is your frame?
    2002(ish) redline monocog

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    2002(ish) redline monocog
    it takes a 27.2
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  18. #18
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    I keep hearing different stories. a few people have told me it takes a 26.8mm. I have 2 posts that fit (the other off my wifes rocky mtn estx-50) neither are stamped with the size.

  19. #19
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    I know i've seen a few 26.8 redline seatposts knocking around, and i'm pretty sure they came on the early monocogs that had bmx spacing.

  20. #20
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    here is what I figured out.

    my neighbor (who I ride with a lot), has a 26.8mm post. It fits no issues. but my post will not fit in his bike at all. So maybe the steel frame will flex enough to hold the 26.8, but probably should take the 27.2.

    Now i just need to ditch my bent TI post, and go carbon! tozovr, do you need to sell your FSA?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbrennan
    I know i've seen a few 26.8 redline seatposts knocking around, and i'm pretty sure they came on the early monocogs that had bmx spacing.
    hmmm... i may stand corrected.

    i know my bmx flite uses a 27.2, cuz i have a carbon 27.2 in it right now.

    i have an older steel cog w/bmx spacing that im almost positive i stuck a 27.2 in as well. i'll check later on today and report back.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    here is what I figured out.

    my neighbor (who I ride with a lot), has a 26.8mm post. It fits no issues. but my post will not fit in his bike at all. So maybe the steel frame will flex enough to hold the 26.8, but probably should take the 27.2.

    Now i just need to ditch my bent TI post, and go carbon! tozovr, do you need to sell your FSA?
    hey matt, if you ditch your bent ti post, drop it in the mail to me. i can pm you my address.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbrennan
    I know i've seen a few 26.8 redline seatposts knocking around, and i'm pretty sure they came on the early monocogs that had bmx spacing.
    ok, i absolutely stand corrected. stock seatpost for the cog is 26.8.

    i'm running 27.2 posts in both of my cogs with bmx spacing, but seat tubes were reamed to accept 27.2 by previous owners.
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  24. #24
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    Im 230lbs and rode a Titec carbon seatpost on my XC bike for about 5 seasons untill the seatpost wore a bit from constantly being raised/lowered to fit in the trunk of my car and started slipping. I then decided that it was time to replace it. I did notice that it was a tad more comfy than an Al post but not a huge difference.
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  25. #25
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    matt-Dean makes a great, long 26.8mm Ti post. i'm running one in my alu hardtail, and it is a relief...

  26. #26
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    yeah, i think my ti may be a 27.2, because it will not fit at all in a 26.8mm frame (my neighbors). I would just hate to buy a 27.2 carbon, and not be able to use it. There just seem to be a lot more 27.2 carbon posts out there.

    monogod, you have an older RL monocog? with the 110mm rear end? What wheels are you running? my rear hub is about shot. i cant seem to find many options other than building a full custom wheel. Also why do you want my bent ti post? can you fix it or something? melt it down maybe into something cool?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by biotruth
    matt-Dean makes a great, long 26.8mm Ti post. i'm running one in my alu hardtail, and it is a relief...

    thanks. for the money that TI stuff is, I may just stick with carbon.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by biotruth
    matt-Dean makes a great, long 26.8mm Ti post. i'm running one in my alu hardtail, and it is a relief...

    They are WAAAYYY backordered. I called yesterday because I wanted a 26.8 ti. In fact they are waiting for new tubing for all seatposts. I went with Race Face SL carbon in a 26.8.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    yeah, i think my ti may be a 27.2, because it will not fit at all in a 26.8mm frame (my neighbors). I would just hate to buy a 27.2 carbon, and not be able to use it. There just seem to be a lot more 27.2 carbon posts out there.

    monogod, you have an older RL monocog? with the 110mm rear end? What wheels are you running? my rear hub is about shot. i cant seem to find many options other than building a full custom wheel. Also why do you want my bent ti post? can you fix it or something? melt it down maybe into something cool?
    yeah, both my cogs have 110 rear end. i run a phil bmx hub and its awesome!

    instead of going with a 26.8 post i would ream out the seat post and just use a 27.2. that way you have a common size seat post that can be moved to another frame if you ever change.

    when you ream it... just ream a little, check, ream a little, check. then get a broom handle and wet a rag with clean streak (or other strong parts cleaner) and clean the inside very thoroughly to remove all grease from the seat tube and do NOT use grease for the carbon post. theres one type of grease that you can use for carbon. its really gritty. have to check on the name of it when i get home... its slipped my mind at the moment.

    yeah, i want the bent ti post to melt down to make wedding rings when my hella cool biker chick gf and i get hitched. we think ti is the sexiest metal ever, and we want our rings to be made out of ti from a bike part.
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  30. #30
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    Cool deal. thanks monogod. I have a CF post on my epic, I know about the no grease deal.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    here is what I figured out.

    my neighbor (who I ride with a lot), has a 26.8mm post. It fits no issues. but my post will not fit in his bike at all. So maybe the steel frame will flex enough to hold the 26.8, but probably should take the 27.2.

    Now i just need to ditch my bent TI post, and go carbon! tozovr, do you need to sell your FSA?

    Matt, I was planning on selling it but my friend just came by and snagged it. leaving me with a new Thomson...I'll get by LOL.

    There are a few on eBay but they're rediculously expensive.
    unityhandbuilt

  32. #32
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! older monocogs 27.0

    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    here is what I figured out.

    my neighbor (who I ride with a lot), has a 26.8mm post. It fits no issues. but my post will not fit in his bike at all. So maybe the steel frame will flex enough to hold the 26.8, but probably should take the 27.2.

    Now i just need to ditch my bent TI post, and go carbon! tozovr, do you need to sell your FSA?
    I have one of the original or second year or so 2000 or 01? Red bmx spaced steel monocogs and it uses a 27.0mm seat post, I suppose a 26.8 might fit if you crank on the binder bolt, this is the same size as my 2003 nondisc ox platinum kona unit, redish orange color. I also have a 2004 flight aluminum monocog and it does take a 26.8mm post. Very few choices in 27.0 thomson or generic/decent kalloy OE post, not too many others.
    I have used a easton ct2 road post on a older trek carbon/aluminum road bike and later on my cross check SS cross racer, used it racing a couple of races over 2 seasons, and other then being a nice light post, much lighter then the generic single bolt aluminum post that I had previously used on these two bikes, I could not tell the difference in ride, on the road or the cross course. I still have the post but after seeing several broken carbon post on the cross course and starting to hear the easton post starting to creak and getting maybee a tad paranoid I took it off and replaced it with a raceface XY post that a friend had lying around, good design, no creaking, not super light though, I would have gone for a thomson with setback, but the XY works and was free.
    I guess I have tried, but not believed the carbon seatpost koolaid placebo. I also wouldn't run carbon bars on a cross bike or a SS mt bike, for durability, and safety reasons alone, I have also seen a broken fsa carbon road bar at a cross race. Plus a good aluminum road bar or riser MT bar isn't a lot hevier then a carbon bar either.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by single1x1
    I have one of the original or second year or so 2000 or 01? Red bmx spaced steel monocogs and it uses a 27.0mm seat post, I suppose a 26.8 might fit if you crank on the binder bolt, this is the same size as my 2003 nondisc ox platinum kona unit, redish orange color.
    that year unit uses a 27.2. if it fits in your cog then someone reamed the seatpost tube.

    the creaking on the ct2 was the head, but can be resolved with grease. they all did it sooner or later.
    I guess I have tried, but not believed the carbon seatpost koolaid placebo

    i dont know that i agree with "koolaid placebo".

    just because one cant feel a difference doesnt mean there isnt one, or that its a placebo, or that the thousands upon thousands of people who can tell the difference are "koolaid drinkers". just means that that person is one of the few that doesnt notice the dramatic difference of cf.

    the science of carbon fiber benefits cyclists in two major ways. one is ligher weight. shave 100g here and there 4 times and youve just removed a pound.

    the other is impact and vibration deflection.

    yet another (depending on the weave and thickness of the cf item) is a certain amount of flex. depending on what type of riding youre doing this could be either good or bad, so it is important to pick the CORRECT cf part of the application.

    most cf part breakage is due to improper part usage first and foremost (i.e. using ultra lightweight road racing bars for cross use), secondly, but virtually as often, is improper installation, and lastly not replacing the part after its damaged in a crash. cf is light, but it is NOT kevlar.


    Plus a good aluminum road bar or riser MT bar isn't a lot hevier then a carbon bar either.
    on a rigid ss mtn bike its nowhere near as comfy either. (with the exception of the azonic double wall bar)
    Last edited by monogod; 03-25-2007 at 10:07 AM.
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  34. #34
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    I found a 26.8mm Amercian Classic in my "treasure chest" of spare parts. Do I have to buy a MonoCog now?
    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod
    theres one type of grease that you can use for carbon. its really gritty. have to check on the name of it when i get home... its slipped my mind at the moment.


    hahahaha nice one
    aLaN AT BikeMojo DOT com

  36. #36
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    i went ahead and ordered my 27.2 mm post. got one on sale for $40. Sometimes I love performance bikes, they seem to be my favorite bike part whore.

    If it doesnt fit, I will just ream the tube out a bit. I'll post my official review of comparing a TI post to a Profile CF post in a few days, when I get the post and a chance to ride.

  37. #37
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    both kona and steel monocog are 27.0-for real.

    Quote Originally Posted by monogod
    that year unit uses a 27.2. if it fits in your cog then someone reamed the seatpost tube.

    the creaking on the ct2 was the head, but can be resolved with grease. they all did it sooner or later.
    [/i]
    i dont know that i agree with "koolaid placebo".

    just because one cant feel a difference doesnt mean there isnt one, or that its a placebo, or that the thousands upon thousands of people who can tell the difference are "koolaid drinkers". just means that that person is one of the few that doesnt notice the dramatic difference of cf.

    the science of carbon fiber benefits cyclists in two major ways. one is ligher weight. shave 100g here and there 4 times and youve just removed a pound.

    the other is impact and vibration deflection.

    yet another (depending on the weave and thickness of the cf item) is a certain amount of flex. depending on what type of riding youre doing this could be either good or bad, so it is important to pick the CORRECT cf part of the application.

    most cf part breakage is due to improper part usage first and foremost (i.e. using ultra lightweight road racing bars for cross use), secondly, but virtually as often, is improper installation, and lastly not replacing the part after its damaged in a crash. cf is light, but it is NOT kevlar.


    [/i]on a rigid ss mtn bike its nowhere near as comfy either. (with the exception of the azonic double wall bar)
    The redline branded kalloy post that came with my redline when I originally bought it way back in 2000-or 01 original red 110 spaced rear end, originaly bought from a dealer as a complete bike is stamped and reads 27.0mm. My redish orange 03 ox platinum unit also uses a 27.0 post. I bought this as a frame from bikeman and they said it takes a 27.0 seat post, it currently has a 27.0mm thomson post that was also bought through bikeman since they usually have the odd ball sizes instock, the thomson seatpost for the kona and the redline post for the redline are interchangeble, between the two bikes because they are the same size. I also believe I read the specs sheet for the complete unit bike on the kona web page at the time and it also said on the website that it came with a 27.0mm post. I also have a smaller sized 04 redline aluminum flight monocog, 110 spaced, that I sometimes jump or race at the local bmx track and it uses a 26.8mm seatpost.
    I'm just sayin that if your using a 26.8mm post in a older steel monocog you are probably just able to crank it hard enough on the binder bolt to stay put, only .2mm difference and if you somehow ream it to accept a 27.2mm post you probably don't have to try too hard cause it's only .2mm difference.
    You are probably right about the ct2 post creaking at the head and needing a little grease, my main reason for changing it once I heard it start creaking was cause of my own slight parinoia caused by seeing several broken carbon post, on the cross course, and even a pic of kona pro Ryan Tebron trying to make it to the pits with a broken carbon post in a race. All the carbon post I have seen fail,fail at the shaft rather spectacularly in a cross race, I have also seen aluminum seatpost break, but of those one or two was a older single bolt kalloy type post where the guts striped out and the seat moved, or fell off and one was a Kore light post where the post broke near the top where the head is press fit and appoxied to the shaft, similar to a ritchey wcs post. Also for reasons of full disclosure the first post that was on my cross check was a ritchey comp post and it didn't fail catistroficly durring a race, but I stopped using it cause it started to slip on the single bolt, with the curved washer against the post part, it lasted about a year and a half or so-with one racing season and quite a few on and off road miles on it.

  38. #38
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    thats far out... cuz the '01 cog that i had came with a 26.8 post. i thought they went to a 27.2 on them around 03 cuz i have an 03 steel cog and an 05 flite and both had 27.2 posts. turned out both were reamed by the previous owners though.

    all the non slider units ive worked on have had 27.2. not saying yours doest have a 27.0, just lettin you know why i said what i did. ill call my buddy at kona tomorrow and check on what years had what sizes.

    wonky sizes dont surprise me though... ever since the days of schwinn using the s6 and s7 wheels instead of just regular sizes bike companies have not used uniform parts.

    i dont blame you for not wanted a broken off seatpost up your arse for a race! last time i was in moab a guy did the back half of porc with a broken seatpost (aluminum). wait, let me say he broke the post then removed it. you know what i mean. anyway.... with todays cf posts you would have to wreck or get a blem for it to break. im 190ish and ride rigid bikes REAL hard and have yet to have one break. just dont EVER use a road post on a mtn frame.
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeMojo
    hahahaha nice one
    glad someone caught that one...
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod
    glad someone caught that one...
    i too saw it. just forgot to comment. It was pretty damn funny.

  41. #41
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    so is there a special tool for reaming a tube out to 27.2? or will my round file method work for .2mm?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    so is there a special tool for reaming a tube out to 27.2? or will my round file method work for .2mm?
    yeah, theres a special tool. i wouldnt try to round file it since youre using a cf post.

    your lbs can do it, takes about 2 minutes, and they shouldnt charge more than $5 to do it. if you go in and buy something else (tubes, chainlube, etc.) they may hit it for you for free. but then again maybe not, since you didnt buy the seatpost there. its worth a shot anyway. just tell them you want to switch to a post you already have.

    whenever i come across something that needs a specialty tool i generally just buy it, then its in my box whenever i (or anyone else) need it.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  43. #43
    NardoSS
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    I was just given an FSA carbon seatpost and it feels the same as my old aluminum one on my aluminum Fisher Rig SS.

  44. #44
    more beers, lees gears.
    Reputation: mattKHS's Avatar
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    Thanks as always monogod.

    It actually fit with minor effort. I had to push and wiggle it down, and its fine. Im not one to adjust my post very often, so now that its set, it will probably wont move till I want to re-paint my ride (the original red has seen better days, and the stickers are gone anyway).

    I did a nice little 4 mile ride today. not much of a difference over a ti. I am sure my bike has enough other creaks, rattles and groans, the CF wasnt much of a difference. Im sure it may be the most expensive single part on there.
    A burrito is a sleeping bag for ground beef.

  45. #45
    meh... whatever
    Reputation: monogod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattKHS
    Thanks as always monogod.

    It actually fit with minor effort. I had to push and wiggle it down, and its fine. Im not one to adjust my post very often, so now that its set, it will probably wont move till I want to re-paint my ride (the original red has seen better days, and the stickers are gone anyway).

    I did a nice little 4 mile ride today. not much of a difference over a ti. I am sure my bike has enough other creaks, rattles and groans, the CF wasnt much of a difference. Im sure it may be the most expensive single part on there.
    the difference you'll feel over ti is that it will be a little stiffer. ti gives much more than the cf does. of course ti posts cost an arm and a frickin let too!

    yeah, you can actually get a 27.2 a couple of inches into the seat tube before it gets too constrictive, so if youre putting it in at least past the minimum insertion point and its fine then theres no need to ream it. good job!
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

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