• 05-12-2012
    akpirate
    Carbon rigid front wheel QR keeps loosening during long rides
    WTH! its becoming rather annoying. I'm certain certain trail conditions are the root cause.

    Anyone else have this problem? If so where you able to find a solution?

    Bike set-up is: 2011 Big Unit/ White Brothers carbon fork/ Race x-lite rims
  • 05-12-2012
    goldenaustin
    I'm sure you'll get a few Shimano XT skewer responses, but I went with Halo Hex skewers and they've been great. I got them mainly to keep the rear tight, but they're awesome for the front too.

    Halo Hex Key Skewers > Components > Wheel Goods > Quick Releases | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
  • 05-13-2012
    Andrea138
    XT Skewer are pretty great. The DT RWS are really good, too. Though, my favorite solution is the Niner RDO fork w/15mm thru axle
  • 05-13-2012
    Shalom
    Sounds like it is not so much an issue of fork and rim, but one of your QR choice. Some just do not hold as tightly as others.

    All the suggestions here are good. XT, RWS, Halo, etc. Find one that works for you.
  • 05-14-2012
    max-a-mill
    if you can make a bolt on skewer come loose your doing something truly special.

    if all QR's fail, this is an inexpensive sure fire technique to keep your wheel tight.

    Nashbar Bolt-On Skewers - Bike Wheel Accessories
  • 05-14-2012
    1SPD
    I run a WB carbon fork with a Specialized ti skewer. Its not the lightest one out there but lighter than and XT. I have had no problems what so ever. I did run some knockoff light weight ti skewers for a short period of time. It creaked like no tomorrow. then when I got it tight enough, it would pop a thread and then be slightly loose again.

    The XT's are great but just on the heavy side of things. There are alot of other options out there though that work well.
  • 05-14-2012
    fryed_1
    I use Hopes. Expensive as far as skewers go, but they look damned good color matched to my hope hubs. Never had a single issue with them.
  • 05-14-2012
    akpirate
    Cool! thanks everyone for their input. Going to check the LBS and see what they have. I will likely go with a pair of bolt on skewers.
  • 05-15-2012
    Andy R
    Is the QR actually loosening during use? - it's hard to see how this could happen, as not only do both ends have serrations designed to grip the drop-out but the nut end normally has a nylon insert to provide friction - like a nyloc nut.
    You could easily mark it to check.

    Or is the wheel moving down in the dropouts? This is a function of drop-out angle and braking forces and isn't actually caused by the quick release, but some QR's are capable of clamping better than others and so deal with what is basically a wheel attachment point/brake geometry issue. Same as rear wheels sliding backwards in track ends under braking......

    As said above - Shimano are probably the best followed by Salsa.
  • 05-15-2012
    ozzybmx
    I run Halo bolt on's too, just ordered and waiting on another set. Everyone carries a multitool these days, why not save some weight and have them tighter than a regular QR can manage.
  • 05-15-2012
    GTscoob
    Disc brakes? Is the lever on the same side as the brake caliper?

    My gf has this issue and we moved the lever to the drive side of the bike and didnt have any more loosening issues. Apparently that's how it should have been all along, heat from the caliper can cause the cam in the QR lever to expand and loosen the lever.
  • 05-15-2012
    FoCo29er
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Disc brakes? Is the lever on the same side as the brake caliper?

    My gf has this issue and we moved the lever to the drive side of the bike and didnt have any more loosening issues. Apparently that's how it should have been all along, heat from the caliper can cause the cam in the QR lever to expand and loosen the lever.

    I'm sorry but that does not make any sense. Lets suppose that heat from the caliper could travel to the fork, which if made of steel it would act as a huge heat sync, or if it was made of carbon which would act as a huge heat isolator, would then travel through the hub and heat it enough to have heat left over to warm the cam in the QR lever. Now, when things heat up they expand, this would only cause the QR to get bigger thus making it tighter.

    Modern(since about 1995) brakes are designed to dissipate heat as quickly as possible. Plus it would take a lot of heat to warm up everything enough to have ANY effect on the QR lever.

    Now onto the other myth, it does not matter where your QR lever is located. Mr. Newton taught us that every action has an equal and opposite reaction. Thus your QR tightens on the drive side with the same exact (but opposite) force from the non drive side. This is the same myth that a certain large bicycle manufacture is using to sell their full floating shock system, a shock works the same if you have forces coming from one side as it would if you had the same amount of force coming from both sides because in the end its all the same force.

    Sorry if this is a bit ranty but I hate seeing false info being spread like this. I am guessing when you moved the QR to the disc side you simply tightened it a little more.
  • 05-15-2012
    Cormac
    I have this issue too. But then again they are entry level QRs. Just ordered a set of halo hex skewers thanks to this thread! :thumbsup:

    Plus the blue will go well with my bike!
  • 05-15-2012
    GTscoob
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FoCo29er View Post
    Sorry if this is a bit ranty but I hate seeing false info being spread like this. I am guessing when you moved the QR to the disc side you simply tightened it a little more.

    I didnt believe it either but it worked.

    Her bike had decent Specialized external cam skewers that held together great when flipped the other way, there's actually a ton of evidence showing how the heating/cooling effect of brakes loosens quick release levers if they're not aligned properly. I'm not alone on this and it's not spreading misinformation, there have been tons of other people with the same experience.

    I hate as much misinformation as anyone else, just spreading TRUTH and helping the OP troubleshoot his issue.
  • 05-15-2012
    FoCo29er
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    I didnt believe it either but it worked.

    there's actually a ton of evidence showing how the heating/cooling effect of brakes loosens quick release levers if they're not aligned properly. I'm not alone on this and it's not spreading misinformation, there have been tons of other people with the same experience.

    No sir, there is not. And even if you can come up with a case where someone thought that was the issue I urge you to look at the science of this. You have many great heat sinks between a brake caliper and the QR lever. There is no way that heat is building up to the point that the QR lever is expanding. And if it was expanding from heat that would only make the parts bigger, i.e. tighter fitting and more clamping. Its just not possible.
  • 05-15-2012
    GTscoob
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FoCo29er View Post
    No sir, there is not. And even if you can come up with a case where someone thought that was the issue I urge you to look at the science of this. You have many great heat sinks between a brake caliper and the QR lever. There is no way that heat is building up to the point that the QR lever is expanding. And if it was expanding from heat that would only make the parts bigger, i.e. tighter fitting and more clamping. Its just not possible.

    Keep on arguing, there have been plenty of other people with the same experience and same solution.

    Thanks for the neg rep as well, not trying to spread bad info. Unlike you, I'm trying to help the OP out.
  • 05-15-2012
    anthonyk
    I'm not saying the heat argument has any merit at all (I'm really skeptical of it), but I think the idea is that if there are plastic bits (like washers) in the QR lever assembly, the heat will soften them up a bit and cause a loss of clamping force.

    But yeah, sorry GTscoob, I haven't seen any reliable evidence that it actually happens. If you've seen a ton of evidence, post it up. And it can't just be, "I swapped sides and now it holds great."
  • 05-15-2012
    Thor29
    I had a similar issue with a steel Niner fork once. The problem was not the skewer, it was the dropout spacing. The spacing was more than 100mm so the skewer had to squeeze the dropouts together before they made full contact with the hub. Niner replaced the fork and the problem went away.

    So anyway, that's another possibility that you should check just in case. One more idea: I've had issues with QRs not generating enough clamping force when there is too much friction in the cam area. A little lube near the cam and pivot will fix that problem.