Best SS Chain Lube- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Best SS Chain Lube

    I haven't seen any posts on this before. I have faithfully used Pedros Ice Wax for a couple of years. It worked extremely well (clean chain, no chain suck, lasts well in most conditions) on my geared bike but it doesn't seem to cut it on my Singlespeed, for some reason, where I find it doesn't last as well and seems to start wearing out mid-ride.

    Has anybody else had a similar experience with their chain lubes. I generally dislike the thicker wet lubes because of all they gunk they collect but that is probably less of an issue on a singlespeed so I might just try something like Finishline XC.

    What lubes have you found to work well on your singlespeed steeds. I usually ride in dryish conditions.
    ____________
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  2. #2
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    Hmmm. I wonder how quickly I can set up a micro-brand to sell SS specific lube?
    Don't you guys ever talk about anything apart from bikes?
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  3. #3
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    I've been using...

    DumondTech(normal version) for years on gears and singlespeed, works great, much better than red finishline or any of the "wax" style lubes. If the ride is really wet/gritty sometimes I'll use the Finishline Green version or Phil Tenacious.

    MC


    Quote Originally Posted by OneFear
    I haven't seen any posts on this before. I have faithfully used Pedros Ice Wax for a couple of years. It worked extremely well (clean chain, no chain suck, lasts well in most conditions) on my geared bike but it doesn't seem to cut it on my Singlespeed, for some reason, where I find it doesn't last as well and seems to start wearing out mid-ride.

    Has anybody else had a similar experience with their chain lubes. I generally dislike the thicker wet lubes because of all they gunk they collect but that is probably less of an issue on a singlespeed so I might just try something like Finishline XC.

    What lubes have you found to work well on your singlespeed steeds. I usually ride in dryish conditions.

  4. #4
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    Hippy Slick

    I really like Hippy Slick. Unlike other lubes it does not seem to thicken as much and gunk up like others. Sort of stay liquid but also sticks to the chain.

  5. #5
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    When I actually do lube an SS chain, I use just about anything except for the waxy stuff. I have used motor oil, TriFlow, BelRay fork lube, the list goes on and on. I am not cheap or anything, but I have found that anything that is petroleum-based works pretty well. Some of the stuff I just experimented with for shits and giggles. I would really like to use Marvel Mystery Oil, but find it to be much too thin. That stuff is really good for a multitude of tasks. I also wouldn't mine trying some MX spray on lube because it is designed for the abuse that an MX bike can put on a chain. It is awefully messy for a mountain bike, but I just may try it anyway and try to prevent any excess from getting on the frame and braking surfaces. I also have gone so long in between lubings that the chain had gotten pretty rusty. The chain needs less lubing overall because it is not changing directions completely because of going through derailleur pulleys. My $0.01, for what it's worth.

  6. #6
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    I like Motul 5100 motorcycle crankcase oil. But then I live in the Pacific Northwet where we don't have dust and the amount of rain and ambient muck forces a guy to re-lube after every ride, at least in the winter. At $4.95 a quart, it's dang cheap yet it just plain stays on. Best stuff I've found except for when I head east into the desert country where there's lots o' dust. That's when I thin the M5100 with cheap cleaning solvent, which is really just a method of applying less and making it work deeper into the chain rollers faster.

    I used to use the $6.95-for-three-ounces-type lubes, but after using the M5100, I can't see why in the world I'd ever pay that much for chain lube again.

    --Sparty
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MellowCat
    DumondTech(normal version) for years on gears and singlespeed, works great, much better than red finishline or any of the "wax" style lubes. If the ride is really wet/gritty sometimes I'll use the Finishline Green version or Phil Tenacious.

    MC
    I second the Dumond. Lasts WAY longer than any other I've tried.

  8. #8
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    Best SS lube

    Quote Originally Posted by OneFear
    I haven't seen any posts on this before. I have faithfully used Pedros Ice Wax for a couple of years. It worked extremely well (clean chain, no chain suck, lasts well in most conditions) on my geared bike but it doesn't seem to cut it on my Singlespeed, for some reason, where I find it doesn't last as well and seems to start wearing out mid-ride.

    Has anybody else had a similar experience with their chain lubes. I generally dislike the thicker wet lubes because of all they gunk they collect but that is probably less of an issue on a singlespeed so I might just try something like Finishline XC.

    What lubes have you found to work well on your singlespeed steeds. I usually ride in dryish conditions.
    I have using Budweiser for a few years now, but after the election and seeing Pete Coors on the election trail, I thinking of switching to Coors.

  9. #9
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    I don't like lube, just nice and rough

  10. #10
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    Check for drivetrain wear.

    I was getting the same thing and no lube lasted longer than 15 miles without that grindy drivetrain feeling. DuMonde Tech, WL Raceday, nuthin! Only Cross Country worked for any length of time, but that stuff is more of a heavy oil and collected crud like no other.

    Turns out my cogs were worn and I didn't know it. I changed out my cogs (on my gearie bike) and all of a sudden my chain felt great for 40-50 miles at a time.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnoPete
    Hippy Slick
    Sounds like someone beat you to it Andy....


    Looks like a SS to me.

  12. #12
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    put it back where you found it

    Chainsaw bar oil if I'm in a pinch, because there's usually a quart lying around and one of the kids probably just moved the damned bike chain lube again and didn't put it back..........argghhhhh!! Collects a little gunk, but lasts quite a while. I'm too cheap to buy bel-ray blue mx chain lube like I used to; lasts longer than anything else I've used but a little messy for pedal-biking.

  13. #13
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    I've tried some wax-based lubes, like Pedros Ice Wax and White Lightning (regular and "race day") and they just wore off the chain too quickly for me. Seemed I was relubing before every ride. My new favorite lube is custom blend of 1 part 5w30 motor oil and 1 part mineral spirits. It's super super cheap compared to any other bike lubes and works great for me.

  14. #14
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    Tell me more

    Sounds like our philosophies with regard to chain lube are similar. Why mix with mineral spirits? If I become enlightened, I might adopt your formula.

    --Sparty



    Quote Originally Posted by cloughja
    I've tried some wax-based lubes, like Pedros Ice Wax and White Lightning (regular and "race day") and they just wore off the chain too quickly for me. Seemed I was relubing before every ride. My new favorite lube is custom blend of 1 part 5w30 motor oil and 1 part mineral spirits. It's super super cheap compared to any other bike lubes and works great for me.
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  15. #15
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    If it's a fixed gear, then Pedros Synth lube. If it's not a fixed gear you should use bacon fat. You can also save up those little nubs you find in low grade hamburger, that stuff works pretty good too.
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  16. #16
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    Sparty - I've started doing the homebrew motor oil thing as well. The reason to dilute a little is to help the lube penetrate the links better and to not leave quite such a sticky gooey mess on the outside. I've been doing this for over a year now and can't believe I ever spent so much money on crappy bike specific lubes which always promised the earth but were invariably a disappointment.

    Sam

  17. #17
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    I had been using Tri-flow for a while and was quite happy with it. It's thin so dust, mud and crap don't stick, downside is that it dries out after 40 miles or so.

    Then I switched to FinishLine wet lube and that does not work well for me. Too thick, in dry or wet weather it attracts dirt like a magnet. It is messy and quickly turns into paste with no lubricating property (and probably some nice abrasive ones...).

    I'm switching back to tri-flow. A little bit goes a long way and it's not that expensive.

    Maurice

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kolo
    The reason to dilute a little is to help the lube penetrate the links better and to not leave quite such a sticky gooey mess on the outside.
    Yes, that's the reason. The mineral spirits also make the application easier since it's less viscous than pure oil. You can play around with the mixture ratio for your conditions and such. When I mix up my next batch, I'll either use a larger proportion of oil, or buy a heavier weight. 1-1 with 5w30 has seemed a bit thin to me.

    I can't claim full responsibility for the idea, though. I read it somewhere on the drivetrain board a while back. Don't remember for sure who originally mentioned it, but for a cost of around $5 for over a liter or so, I figured it was worth a shot.

    -Josh

  19. #19
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    Yeahbutt...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kolo
    Sparty - I've started doing the homebrew motor oil thing as well. The reason to dilute a little is to help the lube penetrate the links better and to not leave quite such a sticky gooey mess on the outside... Sam
    ...........I'm wondering why to use mineral spirits per se. I use cleaning solvent for the same thing -- it thins the lube, then dries away fairly rapidly and leaves the lube behind. If mineral spirits only does the same thing, there's no need for me to switch my lube thinning medium. But if mineral spirits is better in some way...

    Thanks.

    --Sparty
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    ...........I'm wondering why to use mineral spirits per se. I use cleaning solvent for the same thing -- it thins the lube, then dries away fairly rapidly and leaves the lube behind. If mineral spirits only does the same thing, there's no need for me to switch my lube thinning medium. But if mineral spirits is better in some way...
    From your description, I think your solvent and mineral spirits do the same thing. The big benefit of using mineral spirits for me, though, is that I also use it to periodically deep clean my chain, so I already had a large supply on hand. I don't know if this has an impact when mixed with the oil, but mineral spirits alone will actually leave a slight corrosion-resistant coating on a chain when evaporating off. Unless your solvent is more expensive than mineral spirits, though, I don't see any pressing reason for you to change.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kolo
    Sparty - I've started doing the homebrew motor oil thing as well. The reason to dilute a little is to help the lube penetrate the links better and to not leave quite such a sticky gooey mess on the outside. I've been doing this for over a year now and can't believe I ever spent so much money on crappy bike specific lubes which always promised the earth but were invariably a disappointment.

    Sam
    I'm doing it too. It is the best lube I've used. The mineral spirits allow it to get deep into the chain links. Then it evaporates and leaves just the lube. I use SAE 30wt and odorless mineral spirits. I think that "PETROLEUM + SOLVENT" is the key. Any old oil with a solvent used as a carrier is the trick. Isn't that what the bicycle specific lube is anyway. I know the wax ones are "wax and a carrier" but that's the only difference right?

    GP

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by GP-TJ
    I'm doing it too. It is the best lube I've used. The mineral spirits allow it to get deep into the chain links. Then it evaporates and leaves just the lube. I use SAE 30wt and odorless mineral spirits. I think that "PETROLEUM + SOLVENT" is the key. Any old oil with a solvent used as a carrier is the trick. Isn't that what the bicycle specific lube is anyway. I know the wax ones are "wax and a carrier" but that's the only difference right?

    GP

    Oh yeah, you have to wipe it off thoroughly. I usually apply it and work it in. Then I wipe until the outside of the chain isn't wet. Then before I ride it, I wipe it again. I wouldn't apply it just before riding though. I usually do it after a ride so it is ready for next time. Sometimes I do like shampoo, "repeat as necessary" to get more gunk off the chain.

    GP

  23. #23
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    I never thought of using the mineral spirits/solvent thinning technique. Me thinks me will mix up a batch this weekend. Also wondering if some 'pattern release agent' (from work). It is made mostly from petroleum distillates, some rendering oils, and I believe beeswax. We put it on the patterns before compacting the sand mold. It is very thin stuff, but not quite as thin as spirits. How do y'all think this will work versus the solvent/spirits thinner?? I guess I will find out soon enough.
    Last edited by loonyOne; 11-10-2004 at 05:56 PM. Reason: left somthin out

  24. #24
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    Been using "Finish Line Wet Condition' lube at the moment as it's been pissing down in Scotland - pretty good and lasts for a while (40k+) , does tend to pick up a bit of crap but you've got to expect that with riding in the sort of conditions we've got over here.........Usually clean chain after every ride (sram pc7x) by washing in degreaser solution then place on radiator to dry and to get nice and hot then fit to bike and oil liberally on the inside on chain and wipe off, wait a while and repeat oiling/wiping.

    A few years ago i was using a product called "Black Gold chain lube" , Uber-sticky! , almost treacle like in consistency and would still be hanging on after jet washing - unfortunatly i haven't seen it for quite a few years.

    Heard good stuff about "Phil Wood Tenacious Oil" , probably give this a try next.

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