Best chainstay length with sliding dropouts- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    dmo
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    Best chainstay length with sliding dropouts

    I'm setting up my Soma Juice with sliding dropouts and was wondering what the best chainstay length is. Do you want the rear axle as far forward as you can get it? Or does doing that compromise stability at high speeds? I'm setting mine up rigid if that makes a difference.

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  2. #2
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    I always put mine as forward as I can.

    See the "Soma Juice issues" thread.

  3. #3
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    Ride it forward, ride it back. You pick what works for you.

  4. #4
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    I am mentally unstable so either way...

    Generally, I go for rear axle back as far as possible to get more tire clearance so I can run 2.35" on some of my frames with narrower chain stays...
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  5. #5
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    #1 I set it up according to what gear I need to run, but after that tire clearance is the next consideration, with both of those satisfied I run it as far forward as I can. I will not compromise gearing or tire selection for 1/2" or less of CS length, it just doesn't matter as much as the others...

  6. #6
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    Pick the ratio you need, let the sliders end up where they end up.
    I’ve actually experimented with bike setup by adding a link to my chain and changing nothing else. Sliders went from full forward to full back.

    I took it out on a loop I was very familiar with, lots of punchy climbs and chunky rocks, with like 2 semi-smooth flat sections in 10 miles; and *FOR ME* found it mattered far less than I expected. I honestly kind of forgot about the change by mid ride. Yes, it handled differently, but not wildly. I still made all the switchbacks fine, and still couldn’t climb anything I couldn’t with them forward. I didn’t set any PRs on fast downhills... I’d rate the magnitude of the change on par with a new, different tire, or a different handlebar.

    Maybe I’m extraordinarily insensitive to these things, but it 100% broke me of the ‘sliders must be slammed forward’ dogma. I run 32x20,19,or 18 on 29+
    Don’t modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  7. #7
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    I used to run my Inbred geared with the axle slammed forward (17.25" CS) and could loft the front wheel easily, but got tire buzz when cornering with 2.3s. Now, running SS with 17.5" CS and lifting the front is noticeably harder, but have a 2.4" Ardent with no buzz. Thinking about inserting a half link and going to a 2.2 tube tire to improve handling at the cost of rear tire volume/Cush/stability/grip - maybe not a great idea cuz I can get the front wheel up with more effort. Wheelies are just fun! Custom frame may be in my future although it makes no practical sense when a $200 Inbred frame is likely 90% as good as the $2000 custom. Unhelpful rambling done.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARandomBiker View Post
    Pick the ratio you need, let the sliders end up where they end up.
    I’ve actually experimented with bike setup by adding a link to my chain and changing nothing else. Sliders went from full forward to full back.

    I took it out on a loop I was very familiar with, lots of punchy climbs and chunky rocks, with like 2 semi-smooth flat sections in 10 miles; and *FOR ME* found it mattered far less than I expected. I honestly kind of forgot about the change by mid ride. Yes, it handled differently, but not wildly. I still made all the switchbacks fine, and still couldn’t climb anything I couldn’t with them forward. I didn’t set any PRs on fast downhills... I’d rate the magnitude of the change on par with a new, different tire, or a different handlebar.

    Maybe I’m extraordinarily insensitive to these things, but it 100% broke me of the ‘sliders must be slammed forward’ dogma. I run 32x20,19,or 18 on 29+
    100% agree. I found on my Salsa El Mar that having the sliders slammed forward meant that I frequently lost traction on loose climbs. For me and my bike and where I ride, I like having them about half-way back. Don't notice much difference on downhill sections.

    I also think lofting the front wheel is more a matter of gearing than where the sliders end up. When I temporarily ran a 32-22 (instead of my normal 32-19), lofting the front wheel got waaaay easier, even though the sliders were almost all the way back and thus the chainstay was effectively ~1'' longer.
    "Never trust a man in a blue trench coat. Never drive a car when you're dead." -- Tom Waits

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmo View Post
    I'm setting up my Soma Juice with sliding dropouts and was wondering what the best chainstay length is. Do you want the rear axle as far forward as you can get it? Or does doing that compromise stability at high speeds? I'm setting mine up rigid if that makes a difference.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    It depends on gearing. Ideally you can move to a bigger or smaller cog and not need to change the chain. I run a 34x19 mostly, but I have enough slider length to go to 18t or 20t with the same chain. If if I maxed the sider one way or the other I would need a new chain every time I change cogs.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

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