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  1. #1
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    best 10mm thru-bolt for slot dropouts

    What's the best 10mm thru-bolt out there? Do any of these options really hold tighter than a Shimano QR in terms of axle slippage in horizontal dropouts?

    Options I've seen so far are the Hadley aluminum axle, DT Swiss RWS, and this FireEye nutted axle
    Last edited by boomn; 10-15-2009 at 03:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    I'm really liking my dt rws

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    I use the DT RWS on my Jabber, and it works perfectly.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by S:Drive
    I use the DT RWS on my Jabber, and it works perfectly.
    I just saw the picture you posted in the Jabber thread. Nice bike btw. I'm assuming you have that setup with a tensioner on the drive side? Any slipping on the brake side?

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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I just saw the picture you posted in the Jabber thread. Nice bike btw. I'm assuming you have that setup with a tensioner on the drive side? Any slipping on the brake side?
    I have the Jabber nut tension screw that you can get from Vassago, and the 10mm RWS only. No other tensioners. You can really crank down on that RWS. I am a big guy at 250lbs, and I get no slippage at all.

    I also upgrade the star ratchets to the 36 steep, and the combination of the two might be the best setup you can get. IMO

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by S:Drive
    I have the Jabber nut tension screw that you can get from Vassago, and the 10mm RWS only. No other tensioners. You can really crank down on that RWS. I am a big guy at 250lbs, and I get no slippage at all.

    I also upgrade the star ratchets to the 36 steep, and the combination of the two might be the best setup you can get. IMO
    Thanks for the follow up. You're getting me even more excited about my new wheel I still need to get the 10mm end caps and the thru-bolt of my choosing, so I'm holding off on the star ratchet for now

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Thanks for the follow up. You're getting me even more excited about my new wheel I still need to get the 10mm end caps and the thru-bolt of my choosing, so I'm holding off on the star ratchet for now
    ratchets a joke...i hated it, both front and rear. the hadley 10mm x 135mm is perhaps too boring for people? you do realize you only have to torque down one side, right? and the time it takes to tighten or loosen has no practical difference in time as compared to that of the dt ratchet. as such, only a retard, which unfortunately describes the majority of mtbr users, would opt for a DT ratchet skewer - waste of money. basically the dt ratchet 10mm (or 9mm front) is a solution looking for a problem

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    ratchets a joke...i hated it, both front and rear. the hadley 10mm x 135mm is perhaps too boring for people? you do realize you only have to torque down one side, right? and the time it takes to tighten or loosen has no practical difference in time as compared to that of the dt ratchet. as such, only a retard, which unfortunately describes the majority of mtbr users, would opt for a DT ratchet skewer - waste of money. basically the dt ratchet 10mm (or 9mm front) is a solution looking for a problem
    It is nice to convert a rear 9mm QR to 10mm TA.

    It is also Homer approved.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    It is nice to convert a rear 9mm QR to 10mm TA.

    It is also Homer approved.
    huh? i agree a 10mm out back converted hub (or Maxle if applicable) is nice...but to use a DT 10mm ratchet instead of something like the Hadley 10mm x 135mm to mount the aforementioned hub = retardation

  10. #10
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    aren't the DT RWS more expensive though? I thought that was better for E-riding?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach
    aren't the DT RWS more expensive though? I thought that was better for E-riding?
    important clarification: more $ does NOT imply better e-riding. There are TONS of examples in that regard (e.g., XX cassette, carbon frames, carbon cranks, etc).

    e-riding is a function of $ and lack of retardation which if perfectly balances, provides for the optimal e-ride

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    huh? i agree a 10mm out back converted hub (or Maxle if applicable) is nice...but to use a DT 10mm ratchet instead of something like the Hadley 10mm x 135mm to mount the aforementioned hub = retardation
    I have not seen the Hadley. Is is just an axle and a bolt? to go through your TA hub? Sounds convenient enough.

    I just found out King has an axles to convert their ISO disk hubs from QR to TA which is cool.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    important clarification: more $ does NOT imply better e-riding. There are TONS of examples in that regard (e.g., XX cassette, carbon frames, carbon cranks, etc).

    e-riding is a function of $ and lack of retardation which if perfectly balances, provides for the optimal e-ride

    I have so much to learn. I'm a total E-riding newb.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    I have not seen the Hadley. Is is just an axle and a bolt? to go through your TA hub? Sounds convenient enough.

    I just found out King has an axles to convert their ISO disk hubs from QR to TA which is cool.
    its a bolt i suppose, technically (maxle is thru "Axle").

    so yeah, e.g., King now has 10mm hubs for which you can either use something like my Hadley, or the retarded DT 10mm RWS ratchet version a la ~quick release. King didnt previously to have option of 10mm thru bolt with their 10mm rear hub - used to only be 10mm FunBolt but now both options. I have also used the Hadley 10mm thru bolt (they call it axle however i believe...whatever) on my 10mm I9 rear hubs and 10mm rear Hope hub

    pic of the hadley option below

    Last edited by FoShizzle; 10-17-2009 at 12:40 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach
    I have so much to learn. I'm a total E-riding newb.
    i am working on publishing a book to help with the matter

  16. #16
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    just realized you seem to be asking about SS...in which case I (a non clyde though) have successfully used "bolt on" 10mm rear SS hubs. With both my current I9 SS bolt-on and previous Hope Pro 2 SS bolt-on, i did not even need a chaintug on either side. Not sure if many dedicated SS hubs will have the 10mm thru bolt option in which case the 10mm bolt- on analogies will be good

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    just realized you seem to be asking about SS...in which case I (a non clyde though) have successfully used "bolt on" 10mm rear SS hubs. With both my current I9 SS bolt-on and previous Hope Pro 2 SS bolt-on, i did not even need a chaintug on either side. Not sure if many dedicated SS hubs will have the 10mm thru bolt option in which case the 10mm bolt- on analogies will be good
    Yep, its for SSing on my slot dropout Inbred. I have a new wheel on the way with a DT 240s geared hub, which has a 10mm thru option but not a bolt-on option. I've had no problem using a QR skewer for these dropouts, so I'm not buying the conversion parts and thru bolt unless I know the 10mm thru bolt will work better than my Shimano QR

    I didn't go with a dedicated SS hub because my Inbred is my "one bike to rule them all" that sees occasional time as a 1x9 or 2x9 as well. That and I got the wheel for less than the price of the hub and less than Chad or Larry could quote me for a similar Hope Pro 2 wheel.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Yep, its for SSing on my slot dropout Inbred. I have a new wheel on the way with a DT 240s geared hub, which has a 10mm thru option but not a bolt-on option. I've had no problem using a QR skewer for these dropouts, so I'm not buying the conversion parts and thru bolt unless I know the 10mm thru bolt will work better than my Shimano QR

    I didn't go with a dedicated SS hub because my Inbred is my "one bike to rule them all" that sees occasional time as a 1x9 or 2x9 as well. That and I got the wheel for less than the price of the hub and less than Chad or Larry could quote me for a similar Hope Pro 2 wheel.
    understood. a 10mm "bolt on" option is not better than a 10mm thru bolt option, just that most dedicated SS hubs only have the 10mm "bolt on" option which is what i was speaking to. in fact, i would venture to say the 10mm thru bolt option is even better than bolt on apprach so hell yeah, you should definitely do it under your circumstances.

    and yes, the thru bolt will be TONS better than a lame standard QR, seriously, no comparison. while the standard qr "can" work for some people, it will NEVER be better. Is like saying that for some people a standard qr front hub "can" be acceptable, but that too will never be better than 20mm front hub/fork interface.

    There is literally no reason to stick with standard qr unless your hub has no choice, especially when talking about horizontals...chaintugs with qr do help, but still, bolt on/10mm thru axle are WAY better.

    Chad at redbarn even stocks the Hadleys I and others use and its only about $25 so if you got or can get the 10mm configured hub, that is definitely would a non retarded person would and should do

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    understood. a 10mm "bolt on" option is not better than a 10mm thru bolt option, just that most dedicated SS hubs only have the 10mm "bolt on" option which is what i was speaking to. in fact, i would venture to say the 10mm thru bolt option is even better than bolt on apprach so hell yeah, you should definitely do it under your circumstances.

    and yes, the thru bolt will be TONS better than a lame standard QR, seriously, no comparison. while the standard qr "can" work for some people, it will NEVER be better. Is like saying that for some people a standard qr front hub "can" be acceptable, but that too will never be better than 20mm front hub/fork interface.

    There is literally no reason to stick with standard qr unless your hub has no choice, especially when talking about horizontals...chaintugs with qr do help, but still, bolt on/10mm thru axle are WAY better.

    Chad at redbarn even stocks the Hadleys I and others use and its only about $25 so if you got or can get the 10mm configured hub, that is definitely would a non retarded person would and should do
    that's enough to convince me. I need to have something on my bike with the Hadley name on it and I need to have something from Chad, so a big bolt it will be

  20. #20
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    i have used dt rws....though it was kinda fragile. i ended up stripping all the spines inside the handle and had to remove the axle with a wrench. i maybe overtightened the skewer a bit, but was surprise at the mount of torque (not much) needed to strip those splines.

    now, i am using the hadley. it is nice and simple and one side is keyed for your dropouts. works well and looks minimal.

    still using the rws 9mm up front though.

    i'd get the hadley 10mm for a rear axle.
    Last edited by Kam; 10-18-2009 at 09:01 AM.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle

    pic of the hadley option below

    Okay, I get it. Extremely cool.

    I have the RWS 10mm and it works fine (vertical drop-outs). I mainly got it to stiffen up the rear a bit on a FS ride over a QR, and it does that fine.

    Had I known about this Hadley axle, I would have gone with it instead simply because of price and coolness factor. The DT is no more work to get off than this thing.

    I may get one to use with the 10mm King TA since the "fun bolts" are actually kind of lame and no fun at all.

    Fo, you are actually dispensing useful info instead of the usual nonsense. Please get back off your meds.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kam
    i have used dt rws....though it was kinda fragile. i ended is stripping all the spines inside the handle and had to remove the axle with a wrench. i maybe overtightened the skewer but was surprise at the mount of torque needed to strip those splines.
    same here Kam, precisely same issue which is a joke. dude, we gotta ride together soon

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    Fo, you are actually dispensing useful info instead of the usual nonsense. Please get back off your meds.
    I have a quota of 3 useful, or at least semi useful posts each month

  24. #24
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    So basically if I buy a saint rear hub(new ones) with a fitting of 10mm by 135mm, I could buy a bolt on thru-axel for my non thru-axel frame, in order to fit the drop outs?
    If it ain't broken... why the hell you fixin it!

    KONA rules!!

    If you miss the tranny... don't look down.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    What's the best 10mm thru-bolt out there? .
    .... and this FireEye nutted axle
    That looks pretty strong. The Hope looks to use aluminum cone washers with socket head capscrews....not as strong.
    Get off the couch and ride!

  26. #26
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    Thanks to everyone for the information!

    I recently found (on mtbr.com of course) that I could update my CK ISO Disc hub to QR15 on the front relatively easy. Course, I don't know if the new fork, this conversion or both is responsible for the improved stiffness of the front of my bike. Very impressed.

    Of course, this same bike (Lenz Lev 3" circa 2005 with a replacement rear triangle late 2007) now really feels loose in the rear suspension with the new upgrade. I was thinking of the fun bolts and the required one-piece axle. However, it seems the consensus is the 10mm thru-axle and possibly thru-bolt being the better option. However, it seems the overwhelming opinion of the Internet is the DT-Swiss RWS thru-bolt is relatively weak. I have found a German made NC-17 10mm thru-bolt that works more in line as a standard QR, but can't find any reviews of it or a source for one outside Germany.



    Anyone tried one of these?

    In any event, I have ordered the Hadley 10mm axle FoShizzle posted already. I notice the edges of the clamping surface are smooth. I hope slippage will not be an issue. For some reason, I have to tighten my skewer pretty tight on the thick anodized dropouts on my framke. If I can source the NC-17, I might try both options back to back.

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    Still using my RWS with no issues, and I am a big guy at 250lbs. That being said, I like the looks of the Hadley. If I ever have any issues with the DT, I will look into the Hadley.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    Of course, this same bike (Lenz Lev 3" circa 2005 with a replacement rear triangle late 2007) now really feels loose in the rear suspension with the new upgrade. I was thinking of the fun bolts and the required one-piece axle. However, it seems the consensus is the 10mm thru-axle and possibly thru-bolt being the better option.
    Can the CK rear hub be converted from 9QR to 10TA? My understanding is that it can't.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    ...I have found a German made NC-17 10mm thru-bolt that works more in line as a standard QR, but can't find any reviews of it or a source for one outside Germany.



    Anyone tried one of these?
    Now THAT looks sweet!!!
    Get off the couch and ride!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by hchchch
    Can the CK rear hub be converted from 9QR to 10TA? My understanding is that it can't.
    Apparently, they have a one piece 10mm thru axle for the ISO-Disc now.



    "Axle Options: Fun Bolt, QR, 135 x 10mm thru, 135 x 12 thru"

    https://chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_ISO_disc

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    I have found a German made NC-17 10mm thru-bolt that works more in line as a standard QR, but can't find any reviews of it or a source for one outside Germany.

    So, I found the manufacturer's website and asked about availability and here is the reply:

    "Hello Clark

    er are out of Stock. Comes end of February in to the warehouse

    Sorry

    Mennemann

    --

    NC-17 Europe GmbH
    Zur Mühle 2-4
    D 50226 Frechen
    Germany

    Tel: 49 (0)2234 20 38 911
    Fax: 49 (0)2234 20 38 910

    Info@NC-17.de
    www.NC-17.de
    VoIP Skype call to: NC17Europe
    GF: Udo Ochendalski, AG Köln HRB 42414"

    Bummer.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    ... it seems the overwhelming opinion of the Internet is the DT-Swiss RWS thru-bolt is relatively weak...
    Is that conclusion drawn off of this one thread? I did not catch this discussion the first time 'round a couple weeks ago.

    Personally, I rode the Hadley thru bolt for awhile on my Jabber with track ends. The fact that it has no teeth on the side with the allen head means that side tends to float around when you tighten it. Plus nothing to bite onto the track end from the outside meaning most of the slip-prevention has to come from the hub side. I also noticed that the bolt itself scored quite a bit from rubbing against the track end during tightening, probably because of the floating around problem. I don't think it was really designed for a SS application.

    I switched to a DT RWS and it has performed flawlessly so far. Like the DT hubs, it is precise and high quality, and the teeth on both sides hold onto the track end very securely. It is not necessary to crank super hard on the thing to get it tight enough, it holds using less tightening torque than the Hadley due to the teeth.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by canyonrat
    Is that conclusion drawn off of this one thread? I did not catch this discussion the first time 'round a couple weeks ago.

    The fact that it has no teeth on the side with the allen head means that side tends to float around when you tighten it. I switched to a DT RWS and it has performed flawlessly so far.
    Well, if it was just from this thread, I wouldn't have made such a sweeping statement. Looking at mtbr.com reviews (which seems to have only negative submissions for any part) to, especially, other forums (mtbr and otherwise) seem to result in one positive reply for every 5-10 negative ones.

    I'm glad you have had success and I may still go to the DT system because of the lack of teeth on the Hadley thru-axle. I would really like the NC-17, but will likely have to wait till February if I can get one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    Well, if it was just from this thread, I wouldn't have made such a sweeping statement. Looking at mtbr.com reviews (which seems to have only negative submissions for any part) to, especially, other forums (mtbr and otherwise) seem to result in one positive reply for every 5-10 negative ones.

    I'm glad you have had success and I may still go to the DT system because of the lack of teeth on the Hadley thru-axle. I would really like the NC-17, but will likely have to wait till February if I can get one.
    Sure, understood on the conclusion, just adding my voice to your data pool then.

    I would be skeptical of the exposed-cam design QR shown in that picture for SS use in track ends, even if it is a thru-bolt. Might work...but that is based off of my own experience with exposed vs. XT-style skewers, and also these comments by Sheldon Brown:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by canyonrat
    I would be skeptical of the exposed-cam design QR shown in that picture for SS use in track ends, even if it is a thru-bolt
    Well, even though I have a fixed and a SS MTB, the application I intend to use the NC-17 skewer or Hadley 10mm thru-bolt on is (gasp!) a geared application.

    I think the FireEye nutted axle noted above would be the best application for a track end SS. I run a solid 10mm threaded axle and track nuts on my road fixie and that works great. The FireEye looks like a lighter version of this and my tracknuts (which looke identical to those used by FireEye) are knurled very well.

    Thanks again for the feedback!

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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    Apparently, they have a one piece 10mm thru axle for the ISO-Disc now.



    "Axle Options: Fun Bolt, QR, 135 x 10mm thru, 135 x 12 thru"

    https://chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_ISO_disc
    Sweet. Is it interchangeable with existing 9QRs? CK is notorious for non-interchangeability. I would like to br wrong, though.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by hchchch
    Sweet. Is it interchangeable with existing 9QRs? CK is notorious for non-interchangeability. I would like to br wrong, though.
    The rear hub does indeed have the interchangeable axles noted in the pic. I copied and pasted the text from the site. I did a front QR to QR-15 conversion and it worked like a charm.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    The rear hub does indeed have the interchangeable axles noted in the pic. I copied and pasted the text from the site. I did a front QR to QR-15 conversion and it worked like a charm.
    Ok, good. I know of the front being interchangeable, but there are limits. Like the QR limited to only 15TA and not 20TA.

    The rear hub being more complex, I wasn't sure it was interchangeable. The site did say there are axle options, but stated nothing that they were interchangeable. Axle options to pick as a set piece, that is. And if so, interchangeable between which axles as there may be limitations as illustrated by limitations in interchangeability of the front hub.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    Thanks to everyone for the information!

    I recently found (on mtbr.com of course) that I could update my CK ISO Disc hub to QR15 on the front relatively easy. Course, I don't know if the new fork, this conversion or both is responsible for the improved stiffness of the front of my bike. Very impressed.

    Of course, this same bike (Lenz Lev 3" circa 2005 with a replacement rear triangle late 2007) now really feels loose in the rear suspension with the new upgrade. I was thinking of the fun bolts and the required one-piece axle. However, it seems the consensus is the 10mm thru-axle and possibly thru-bolt being the better option. However, it seems the overwhelming opinion of the Internet is the DT-Swiss RWS thru-bolt is relatively weak. I have found a German made NC-17 10mm thru-bolt that works more in line as a standard QR, but can't find any reviews of it or a source for one outside Germany.



    Anyone tried one of these?

    In any event, I have ordered the Hadley 10mm axle FoShizzle posted already. I notice the edges of the clamping surface are smooth. I hope slippage will not be an issue. For some reason, I have to tighten my skewer pretty tight on the thick anodized dropouts on my framke. If I can source the NC-17, I might try both options back to back.
    A very similar QR 10mm axle along with a 9mm version came in my KORE Durox wheelset. They work great and feel real solid. I like the fact you have a full axle going thru the dropouts versus only half a dropout. They are on my Jamis Parker set up as a freeride bike

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsullivan
    A very similar QR 10mm axle along with a 9mm version came in my KORE Durox wheelset. They work great and feel real solid. I like the fact you have a full axle going thru the dropouts versus only half a dropout. They are on my Jamis Parker set up as a freeride bike
    Pics and part numbers of the skewers?
    Get off the couch and ride!

  41. #41
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    Ha ha!

    Found one at Chain Reaction Cycles:



    Ordered!

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    Found one at Chain Reaction Cycles:

    Ordered!
    Nice, but the NC17 one looks beefier around the QR cam area which is good since it's aluminum. Keep us updated please.
    Get off the couch and ride!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Natedogz
    Nice, but the NC17 one looks beefier around the QR cam area which is good since it's aluminum. Keep us updated please.
    Just an update.

    My Fireeye thru-bolt skewer landed a long time ago from it's trip across the pond. Due to unforeseen circumstances (broken bike, grr), I just installed it yesterday in my converted CK ISO-Disc hub. Set-up was quite easy as I had experience converting the front to QR-15. The rear didn't even require removal of the rotor like the front did.

    In other news, I just got a reply from NC-17 about their skewer still on back order. It's now going to be the end of March.

    SS content. I got off the phone with I-9 about converting my bolt-on SS XC (not Enduro) rear hub to a thru-bolt. The $70 rear thru-axle is on it's way and set-up is similar to the King from what I gather. We got into a discussion about thru-bolts and he knew all about them. The I-9 guy (horrible with names, sorry) indicated that despite the lack of serrations or knurling on the Hadley skewer, he felt it was the best. The Fireeye or NC-17 thru-bolt skewers act like all standard skewers - they "back off" the tension when in the fully closed position while DTS, Hadley and the true thru-axles all maintain the "end" tension. I paraphrase.

    Made sense to me. So, I will be running my Fireye on the geared bike and the Hadley skewer on the SS.

  44. #44
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    Hadley

    The Hadley is designed for vertical drop outs. There is a little tab on the nut that slides up into the vertical dropout so you only need 1 hex wrench (yeah me!), see red circle. It is a nice design but not meant for track ends, IMHO anyway.

    I have ridden mine for a while on my FR rig. Love it there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails best 10mm thru-bolt for slot dropouts-hadley10mmaxle.jpg  

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  45. #45
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    Since this thread has been revived, I will throw my opinion in as well. I have been using the DT RWS thru axles both frond and rear on my SS for over a year now with great results. Stiffens everything up, no tools required, what's not to like? If someone stripped out the splines, it sounds like either they were trying to tighten it WAY more than required, or they were not engaged properly.

    Mark

  46. #46
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    Thread re-revival

    Since my last post here, I installed what I thought was a 10mm thru-bolt axle for my CK hub only to discover I actually had the fun-bolt axle instead. I noticed that it was threaded, but it didn't click with me I had the wrong axle till the first ride resulted in some clunking from the rear of the bike. The fun bolt axle appears to by about 11mm in internal diameter I guess. I called the bike shop I ordered it from and apparently King is putting a hold on the sale of these 10mm thru-bolt axles. Why? I think they are having some issues. Don't know when that will be resolved.

    SS Content: I installed a 10mm thru-bolt axle and Hadley "skewer" as pictured above on my SS I-9 rear hub. It has really made the rear of the bike quite stiff.

    One thing to note is that you have to really play with the pre-load on the hub bearings. I would recommend hand tensioning the bearing cap down and then tightening the set screw. Then mount the wheel in the bike and tighten down the axle just enough to hold the wheel on. With the bike on the ground, loosen the set screw and unscrew the bearing cap more than a bit. Now, making sure your wheel is sitting square in the dropouts, tighten the "skewer" firmly. Now hand tension the bearing cap till it touches the bearing. Tighten the set screw.

    I messed around with it for quite a bit beforehand and the pre-load was too much each time. Brandi at I-9 warned me that I needed to do this carefully.

    I like the system so much, I ordered a 9mm thru-bolt axle for the front I-9. Since this is on a rigid fork, I'm actually impressed with this addition the most. The fork seems to "shudder" less with braking and "dampens" in one plane (front to back) vs. occasionally feeling like it's trying to twist in the dropouts. I'm using a DT RWS thru-bolt skewer. Unlike the reviews, I thought it was pretty beefy and would have no problems ordering another.

    Hope this post is helpful and I will reply back about the CK 10mm axle when I learn something new.

  47. #47
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    Out of interest, is there a recommended torque setting for the 10mm Hadley?

    I've just gone from a QR to the 10mm thru-axle.
    I've got it nice and tight just using an alan key, and don't know if it's over/under-kill. Thx.

  48. #48
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    Resurrected yet again....

    Quote Originally Posted by philhumphrey
    Out of interest, is there a recommended torque setting for the 10mm Hadley?

    I've just gone from a QR to the 10mm thru-axle.
    I've got it nice and tight just using an alan key, and don't know if it's over/under-kill. Thx.
    I too have just installed the Hadley 10mm, on I9 Enduros on my Intense Uzzi. Does anybody have any torque values for this bolt? I`ve heard everything from `hand tight` to 9Nm....
    2010 Intense Uzzi
    2009 Wilier Izoard

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by dopaminer
    I too have just installed the Hadley 10mm, on I9 Enduros on my Intense Uzzi. Does anybody have any torque values for this bolt? I`ve heard everything from `hand tight` to 9Nm....
    I9 told me to pre-load the hub fairly loose and then tighten the "skewer" snugly. I set mine where there is no play when everything was buttoned up and there was no drag. The rear wheel will rotate without crank rotation. It was a fine line to be honest.

    I didn't get a torque value, but they normally return e-mails fairly promptly.

  50. #50
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    Nice one; thanks for both your posts. Mine`s basically a 9-speed fixie when I torque the Hadley bolt to 6Nm.. . So I guess I`ll be doing some more tweaking before the first ride.....
    Thanks again.
    2010 Intense Uzzi
    2009 Wilier Izoard

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckc1971
    .......and apparently King is putting a hold on the sale of these 10mm thru-bolt axles. Why? I think they are having some issues. Don't know when that will be resolved.
    This just in..... Chris King 10mm thru-bolt axles are available for sale. I know because I am looking at one. No chance to test it vs. conventional skewer as the bike it will be run on is waiting on a replacement front triangle.



    Ordered at your LBS or here: https://www.aspirevelotech.com/Merch...y_Code=CKAXLES

  52. #52
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    Have there been any new thru bolts put out or is it still pretty much the Hadley or the Dt Swiss? I have always used bolt on SS hubs in the past but now am looking at running the thru bolt option on a geared I9 hub so I am curious if anyone else makes something like the hadley one. I have looked at I9's and CK's website and am surprised that they make the hub kits but not the actual axle.

  53. #53
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    I know this is an older thread but want to see if anyone is still using the Hadley thru bolt for their single speed? I am about to build up an On One Lurcher with track ends and I am already setup with Hadley's and did not want to change.

  54. #54
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    I have a few rides on my bike with the hadley thru bolts and have not had any slipping. I was worried that the lack of knurls on the bolt but so for a non issue.

  55. #55
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    A few questions.....Is the Hadley Thru bolt/axle made of Aluminum? Is it durable? Also, see pic. best 10mm thru-bolt for slot dropouts-hadley10mmaxle.jpg

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by joefi View Post
    A few questions.....Is the Hadley Thru bolt/axle made of Aluminum? Is it durable? Also, see pic.
    Yes, I believe it is made of Aluminum and seems very durable. I've ridden mine, I guess, a couple of years now. No slippage or other issues. The stepped washer (arrow) works well.

  57. #57
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    I have set up 2 SS bikes with trackends using the 10mm Hadley bolt. There have been no slipping issues. I'm going to use this set up on my on one lurcher soon.
    Chumba Stella
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  58. #58
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    Hadley bolt does not would on a Niner Jet 9 RDO the thickness of the drop out only allows about two threads on the nut. My drop out measured 6.25 inches. You need a 180 mm length bolt, from under bolt head to end of threads. Very hard to find. Racebolt has a 10m x 180 Ti hex head bolt that I have on order.

  59. #59
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    I have a Hadley bolt in a Stand 3.30 hub. works great! if you use those thru bolts on a steel frame or fork that has thin dropouts, you might need to put some sort of washer between the stepped down washer and the outside of the dropout or the threads will bottom out. it seems very soft but very strong. the rear one has 22 Nm printed on it and I use a torque wrench to cinch it down. 22 Nm is a lot!

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