Belt Drive or Chain; 175 or 180 cranks- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Belt Drive or Chain; 175 or 180 cranks

    I could use some advice. I will be setting up a new SS for endurance racing. My last decisions will be to use a Gates belt drive or chain. Also want advice on crank length

    Any help would be great

  2. #2
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    Chain. It's proven and works well.

    At least now, belt drive just has too many issues; just search for their threads.

  3. #3
    4 Niners
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    Belt drive you can't change gearing. They only make a few belt sizes and a few pulley sizes. Also, in a race, if you get a rock in the belt and it breaks, you are probably done.

    Cranks are a user dependent item. I have read reams of research on crank length and the management summery is that you can go too long, but you can't go too short. In other words, long cranks caused knee issues in some and people could put out just as many watts with short cranks if they had low gears and could spin (up to a point).

    So I recommend overall: chain and 175

  4. #4
    Out spokin'
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Chain. It's proven and works well.

    At least now, belt drive just has too many issues; just search for their threads.
    +1 for chain. I personally know only of disappointed people who've tried the belt.

    As for crank length, it's all personal preference.

    --sParty
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    We don't quit riding because we get old.
    We get old because we quit riding.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    As for crank length, it's all personal preference.

    --sParty
    that's what she said!


    and +1 for chains.

  6. #6
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    chain and 175s

  7. #7
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    You Can change the gearing on the CDS belt system. http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/fo...rs.php?lang=us
    Run the 39th front cog then you have a choice on 20, 22, 24, 25, depending on the frame. If you can, Ride the belt system for a bit and make up your own opinion.
    Cranks: Rod M says lower cadence gets longer cranks. Wes W says higher cadence gets shorter cranks. If you do go longer cranks, make sure the frame is built for 'em.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by banks
    You Can change the gearing on the CDS belt system. http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/fo...rs.php?lang=us
    Run the 39th front cog then you have a choice on 20, 22, 24, 25, depending on the frame. If you can, Ride the belt system for a bit and make up your own opinion.
    Cranks: Rod M says lower cadence gets longer cranks. Wes W says higher cadence gets shorter cranks. If you do go longer cranks, make sure the frame is built for 'em.
    2 teeth in the rear is a hell of a jump. too much in most cases.

  9. #9
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    Belt: Haven't tried it, but you can get the new carbon drive design which has the slot down the middle of the belt so it doesn't pop off the cog/chainring. Two, you can get the Phil products or have Phil design a system that is similar to what 1x9 users use - a chainring bashguard on both sides of the chainring sandwiching and preventing the belt from skipping off from a skewed chainline. A belt is commonplace with urban town commute bikes. It makes sense if you're putzing around town and have khaki's you want to keep clean of chain lube and suck.

    Chain: proven 100%.

    Crank length: 175 and lower. Unless you're freakishly tall, (if you have to ask yourself if you are, you aren't), 180s are ridiculous. I dont care who says torque this and torque that, if you ride anything off road that has things like rocks, roots, switchbacks, 180s are the wrong tool for the job.
    Creative Producer, Will of the Sun, Platform Pedal Shootout 1M+ views WoS

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by illnacord
    Crank length: 175 and lower. Unless you're freakishly tall, (if you have to ask yourself if you are, you aren't), 180s are ridiculous. I dont care who says torque this and torque that, if you ride anything off road that has things like rocks, roots, switchbacks, 180s are the wrong tool for the job.
    This part is personal preference. I switched to 180mm cranks several years ago and I clear more hills while seated than I did on 175mm cranks. The cranks feel better and I enjoy using them more and I'm only 5'10".
    Regarding pedal-strikes, we're talking about 5mm of increase. I've gotten perhaps 1 or 2 pedal strikes since I switched to the new cranks over the last couple years and those times were because I chose really bad lines that probably would have hit with 175s anyways.
    Try it out for yourself and see if you like it. Pricepoint has 180mm stylos for around $120 - cheap way to try it out and see if you like it.

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