BB creaking, what to do... (SS content)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    BB creaking, what to do... (SS content)

    just got around to riding my new On-One Inbred from Webcyclery and after an afternoon of riding the BB is creaking like mad on every pedal stroke, I've never dealt with this... any solutions?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Am I getting too bulky?
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    Pull the cranks, back out the catridge, and make sure the fixed cup is well lubed, including the threads, and then reinstall it as tight as you can make it. Then grease up the cartridge and reinstall that pretty tight. Then grease up the splines on both the cranks and spindle and torque the cranks arms on. That should eliminate the BB as the source.
    I gotta roll, can't stand still, got a flame in my heart, can't get my fill.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikehigh
    Then grease up the splines on both the cranks and spindle and torque the cranks arms on.
    Assuming it's an ISIS BB. No grease on square tapers. Also, you might use anti-seize instead of grease, and make sure you properly torque the crank bolts, because it could be that, too.

    It could also bee loose chainring bolts, so you could pull and grease them, too. While you're at it, clean between the chainring contact points and the spider.

    I like silent bikes. Creaking sucks... ask Hollywood!

  4. #4
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    so I reinstalled the fixed cup pretty tight and am in the process of reinstalling the cartridge but I am encountering a lot of resistance with about 1/8 inch to go and I hear a cracking noise... now what?

  5. #5
    Am I getting too bulky?
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    If it's like mine, an FSA, you're not gonna get the cartridge installed so the cup is flush with the BB face. It will protrude an mm or two. That's OK if the cartridge doesn't have a flange that's expected. Only install the cartridge till it's tight, not till it's flush. If the cartridge has a flange, then take it out and lube it some more.

    What BB did you get BTW?
    I gotta roll, can't stand still, got a flame in my heart, can't get my fill.

  6. #6
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    Have a beer and keep crankin.

    I dunno, I usually install the cartidge with the fixed cup most of the way in, then tighten the cartridge all the way, then the fixed cup.

    Maybe try it that way and see if you're better off?

  7. #7
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    New question here.

    You sure it's not your Ti railed saddle????

    Under my massive weight, all of mine creak. I thought it was the Bushnell EBB or the BB, turned out to be the saddle.

    Assuming you have a Ti railed saddle, of course. Does it "creak" when you stand and pedal??

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eSSq
    I dunno, I usually install the cartidge with the fixed cup most of the way in, then tighten the cartridge all the way, then the fixed cup.
    Always tighten the fixed cup first and really freakin' tight. Then the adjustable cup side. Get that fixed cup shoulder nice and tight against the BB face. Grease (or anti-sieze) on all the threads and splines, none on a square taper, a dab of grease on all the chainring bolts, a bit of grease on the pedal threads ( and really get them pedals tight ).

    Creaks only happen if two parts are allowed to move against each other. Tighten your water bottle boss bolts too (again with a bit of grease on the threads). Remember, if it's got threads, grease it!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssmike
    Always tighten the fixed cup first and really freakin' tight. Then the adjustable cup side. Get that fixed cup shoulder nice and tight against the BB face.
    Is there a rationale for doing it that way, or is that just they way you learned to do it? I think I learned it the other way back in my LBS employee days. I'm not much of a wrench though, so I'm open to suggestions.

  10. #10
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    work it

    When I end up chasing creaks on bikes for customers I start by chasing the treads and facing the BB shell, that way the tourqe reading from the wrench is not from tight treads or a warped shell face (yes it makes a difference). Grease works like a champ, so does teflon tape, and anti seize. Don't forget to grease pedal spindle treads- that one always gets people. I am a huge fan of tourqe wrenches and manufacturers ratings, they have them for a reason and they always know if you are fibbing when you call trying to get help. So that's my thought on the matter. Good luck, Eric.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by eSSq
    Is there a rationale for doing it that way, or is that just they way you learned to do it? I think I learned it the other way back in my LBS employee days. I'm not much of a wrench though, so I'm open to suggestions.
    My rationale goes back to the days of cup and cone type bottom brackets. Fixed cup first. Installed with a Campy fixed cup tool and then give the tool handle a nice whack with a rubber mallet to make sure it's on.

    There could be some thought about the fixed cup side being a left hand thread and if it's not tight could eventually lead to a loose cup as you pedal. Doesn't make much sense when you consider the force of the bearings on a cup, but many more times than not, when a customer came in with a loose, bb, it was the fixed cup that was loose.

    I just apply the old school fixed cup tightening to cartridge bb's as well. There's always more'n one way to skin a cat though.

  12. #12
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    Makes sense. I started working in a bike shop in 1994, when cartridge BB's were pretty much the norm.

    One last question: do you put any grease (or antiseize) on the inside of the fixed cup? I do.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by eSSq
    Makes sense. I started working in a bike shop in 1994, when cartridge BB's were pretty much the norm.

    One last question: do you put any grease (or antiseize) on the inside of the fixed cup? I do.
    Abso-ding-dang-doodly-lutely. I slather grease on almost any surface inside the bb shell. In fact, I just got done tearing apart and re-greasing my bb and eccentric on my bike so I can head out for a lunch ride! Get a nice coat of grease on the center of the bb cartridge too. That way if grit and grime fall inside the shell through the seat tube (inevitable), it will get caught up in the gooey grease and not get into your bearings (more applicable for cup and cone bb's but old habits die hard).

    Started in a shop in '87 or '88.

  14. #14
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    Whilst you're in there, if you ride in wet conditions, drill a hole in your BB shell at the lowest point (5mm will do), de burr it, and then any water that gets in will drain out.

    If anyone questions your warranty, tell them I said it was OK :-)

    You did pull your crank arms all the way on to the axle, so they were hitting the stops, right?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected]
    Whilst you're in there, if you ride in wet conditions, drill a hole in your BB shell at the lowest point (5mm will do), de burr it, and then any water that gets in will drain out.

    If anyone questions your warranty, tell them I said it was OK :-)

    You did pull your crank arms all the way on to the axle, so they were hitting the stops, right?
    Action Tec used to also make a one way valve that would press into the shell. The rubber valve part would inevitably disappear soon after installation and all you were left with was a brass insert pressed into the shell - basically a hole. How's this for a well-draining bb shell? 1971 Masi http://www.campyonly.com/retrobikes/sachs_masi.html
    Last edited by ssmike; 08-19-2006 at 08:04 AM.

  16. #16
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    Hope

    It's still the saddle. May sound like the BB creaking.

    Trust me on this one.

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