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  1. #1
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    Any Boost Single Speed Hubs?

    Does anybody make a Boost 148 single speed rear hub? I can't seem to find one. TIA.
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    I couldn't find one either. CK said no plans, Phil Wood said they're still pondering 142 TA. Paul himself said they'll have one out "early next year" (2017).

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    Quote Originally Posted by buell View Post
    Does anybody make a Boost 148 single speed rear hub? I can't seem to find one. TIA.
    If they don't already, I bet Onyx will if you ask 'em nicely.

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    Perhaps try reaching out to Hope to see if they offer or plan to offer caps for their hub?
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    If they don't already, I bet Onyx will if you ask 'em nicely.
    sure enough, they have it!
    090991, MTB BOOST CL HGSS - 148/12mm thru

    Quote Originally Posted by A1an View Post
    Perhaps try reaching out to Hope to see if they offer or plan to offer caps for their hub?
    end caps wouldn't work because the rotor would need to be spaced out 3mm too.
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    Quote Originally Posted by A1an View Post
    i guess that could work with the hope pro 2 ss/trials hub. i'm partial to centerlock though. it's a good alternative to the onyx to consider. thanks.
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    Check it out! Boost 148 single speed!https://instagram.com/p/BH0FelyDw9S/

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    Quote Originally Posted by quicksilverta View Post
    Check it out! Boost 148 single speed!https://instagram.com/p/BH0FelyDw9S/
    pfft... needs moar centerlock
    http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/a...l#post12651981
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    Hadley is supposed to have one. He said he would be using the 160mm hub shell if he could and just need to add the short ss free hub.
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  11. #11
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    Paul's makes one in 142 through axle? Close....
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    Hadley is supposed to have one. He said he would be using the 160mm hub shell if he could and just need to add the short ss free hub.
    Sorry for hijacking, but did he say anything about also releasing a (non-SS) boost148 conversion for their older 135/142mm rear hubs?

    I'd REALLY love to avoid building a new wheel if I pick up a new boost frame...lol

  13. #13
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    I'll ask him.
    For me since I own several hub sets I'm just going to try and keep my 142x12 bikes or only buy older models with the 142x12 drop outs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    I'll ask him.
    For me since I own several hub sets I'm just going to try and keep my 142x12 bikes or only buy older models with the 142x12 drop outs.
    Awesome, thank you! Please pm or reply here if you find out anything!

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    White industries

    White industries makes one...

    mmmm sweeet

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    They will have a Boost 148 SS specific hub in a few weeks. Black on the first run, other colors later. They said they see the demand and have been working to get the SS Boost hub ready.
    The bad news is NO axle conversion for the 142 to Boost. The alignment is just too far off.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    They will have a Boost 148 SS specific hub in a few weeks. Black on the first run, other colors later. They said they see the demand and have been working to get the SS Boost hub ready.
    The bad news is NO axle conversion for the 142 to Boost. The alignment is just too far off.
    Great info, thank you!

  18. #18
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    ive had the shop call hadley a couple times, im waiting on these. should be soon. also reached out to a few others

    hope: "we have no plans to make a 12/148 boost ss hub sorry"

    i9: "its in the works, but on back burner"

    profile: "no plans to build one at this time"

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlatan View Post
    White industries makes one...

    mmmm sweeet
    Don't see any mention of a Boost singlespeed hub there, just their standard Boost hubs. Did I miss something?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Don't see any mention of a Boost singlespeed hub there, just their standard Boost hubs. Did I miss something?
    Sorry, it's probably me that missed something. They have boost at the link... I thought it would work for SS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by charlatan View Post
    Sorry, it's probably me that missed something. They have boost at the link... I thought it would work for SS.
    It would certainly still work with a SS setup using spacers in place of a cassette, but it's not SS-specific (which has a few other unique benefits).

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlatan View Post
    Sorry, it's probably me that missed something. They have boost at the link... I thought it would work for SS.
    It will work for singlespeed, just like any other Boost hub will work. The OP is asking for a singlespeed specific Boost hub. Meaning either a very short freehub body or a hub that uses a thread on freewheel. Both result in a hub with wider and evenly spaced flanges for a stronger more durable wheel.

  23. #23
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    ^ Thanks bikeny for the clarification. Sorry for the noise in the thread.

  24. #24
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    Time to bump this thread. What's new in boost SS hubs? The Paul hub looks like a winner if you can deal with freewheels.

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  26. #26
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    I have the Onyx boost SS hub. High quality and silence.
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  27. #27
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    Lovin' my Hope Trials/SS.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by babybabe View Post
    Lovin' my Hope Trials/SS.
    I don't see the boost version. Is that too new to be on their site?

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    Hub493

    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    I don't see the boost version. Is that too new to be on their site?
    Oops, forgot to add that the Hope needs the Hope 148 boost conversion HUB493 to bring it out from 142mm. When I was hub shopping a year ago, I looked long and hard. I nearly got the Paul but ultimately decided against the freewheel setup. The Onyx looked good as well but to me the cost above and beyond the other options was a little over the top. I really wanted a 148-specific hub but haven't thought twice about the conversion bits since I pulled the trigger.

    Any Boost Single Speed Hubs?-img_2076.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Boost Single Speed Hubs?-img_2076.jpg  

    Last edited by babybabe; 12-10-2018 at 01:30 PM. Reason: fix image

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    thank you for clarifying.

    I am always thinking ahead to what I would put on my bike if I had to replace XYZ. if I am going to replace a rear hub these days, I don't want little adapters when I can buy the right hub for the job.

    Onyx and I9 look nice but $$$ for a hub that will last a few years before obsolescence when ultra boost infinity hubs come out. Paul might be the way to do it.

  31. #31
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    Just go SS Superboost!
    Any Boost Single Speed Hubs?-img_3393.jpg

  32. #32
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    I hear you. With so few options, it's a compromise. Bear in mind, with the Hope adapter it's really just the disk-side spacer that's added. The axle piece from the kit 0just replaces an existing, slightly shorter piece. (Personally, that bugs me exactly as much as having to use IS posts between my frame and calipers bugs me.) But the theoretical downside of the Hope is that you miss out on 6mm of Boost.

    The Paul hub looks awesome. I've held one, and they feel substantial. Please report back when you get something built up.

  33. #33
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    Paul makes a boost WORD hub with a 55mm chainline. The non-boost hub has a 52mm chainline. Why so wide when most cranks would put your 1x ring at 49mm or narrower?

  34. #34
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    Why do You need ss boost setup?
    Plus tire is too narrow for boost spacing, fat tire is too wide.
    My 26x3" ss has normal 135x10 rear hub, 57mm chainline and 165mm Q-factor.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpt1 View Post
    Why do You need ss boost setup?
    Plus tire is too narrow for boost spacing, fat tire is too wide.
    If your frame has 148mm spacing, you don't have a choice. 99% of frames made in the last few years are boost. you have to use a boost hub or a 142mm hub with some goofy axle and rotor spacers. Why not take advantage of the extra-wide set flanges and use a boost hub?

  36. #36
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    I agree, spacers are the worst solution. It seems that boost frame is the same oddity as vertical dropouts for singlespeed use.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Paul makes a boost WORD hub with a 55mm chainline. The non-boost hub has a 52mm chainline. Why so wide when most cranks would put your 1x ring at 49mm or narrower?
    55mm does seem really wide?!

    I think most boost cranksets are more like 51-53mm chainline (even though 49 would be ideal for chainline with a cassette).

    Many boost frames with wide chainstays won't fit a normal size (32t or more) ring unless you use the wider boost chainline

  38. #38
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    The agreed-upon standard for boost is a 52mm chainline, end of story. Old 135/142 hub drivetrains use a 49mm chainline. I emailed Paul but I am curious why they list their hubs as 3mm wider than the standard for which that hub was made.

  39. #39
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    55mm isn't wide even for non-boost ss, 57-58mm is a maximum. So, add 2.5mm with boost, 60mm is the real interest of "boost ss". Something like something special as 3.25" tires, for example.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpt1 View Post
    55mm isn't wide even for non-boost ss, 57-58mm is a maximum. So, add 2.5mm with boost, 60mm is the real interest of "boost ss". Something like something special as 3.25" tires, for example.
    No, 52mm is boost standard. Right? did I miss something? where did you read that you can put cranks with a 60mm chainline on a boost drivetrain?

    edit- the hub in question takes a freewheel, so the manufacturer did not intend for the chainline to be adjustable. likewise, you usually can't change the chainline on a modern crankset more than a few millimeters. I think you can flip your chainring on most of them and switch from 49mm (non-boost) to 52mm for a boost drivetrain. on a single speed bike, the rear cog has to line up with the chainring, which is going to be either 49mm for an old standard 1x crankset or 52 for boost. Paul lists their hub at 52 and 55mm, which is wider than both. maybe they intend for you to use it with their cranks?

  41. #41
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    mack_turtle, don't be confused by standard multispeed chainline, that live in the centre of cassette! We can place our single cog in the rightmost position. Or use dedicated ss hubs. Way bigger chainline, anyway.

    But, I can't argue against 99% of frames! It's the key...

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    Quote Originally Posted by lpt1 View Post
    mack_turtle, don't be confused by standard multispeed chainline, that live in the centre of cassette! We can place our single cog in the rightmost position. Or use dedicated ss hubs. Way bigger chainline, anyway.

    But, I can't argue against 99% of frames! It's the key...
    do not be confused by freewheel hubs. that's what I am talking about- the Paul WORD hub. you cannot put the cog in the right-most position on a freewheel hub. the freehweel threads on and the cog ends up where it ends up. there's no way to adjust it by enough to make it line up. go looks at a Paul WORD hub to see what I mean.

  43. #43
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    Ok. But, first, usually dedicated ss hubs has wider chainline, compared to multispeed hubs with the same dropout width. And, second, freewheel hubs also can be adjusted a little with some spacers under a freewheel.

    What about Paul, it seems that they don't deliver available maximum. Non-boost -- 52mm, Boost -- 55mm. Loss of space at the right of WF. I use Surly Ultra New hub with 1mm spacer under frewheel (White Industries), that give me 57mm chainline on 135mm hub!

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpt1 View Post
    Ok. But, first, usually dedicated ss hubs has wider chainline, compared to multispeed hubs with the same dropout width.
    no, that's patently false.

    not sure what we're not communicating here. a non-boost crankset is going to put the chainline at 49mm and a boost is 52mm. those are static, not adjustable on modern cranksets.

    since those are not adjustable, you need to adjust the chainline on the hub to match the crankset. the spacing of the crankset determines where you want your cog to go, not the other way around. most SS hubs have a short freehub body with enough space to allow adjustment to allow your cog to line up with the front chainring. for most hubs, that means you don't want your cog to end up outside of that 48-53mm window of the chain will be pulling at an angle and wearing out teeth prematurely.

    I don't know how you're pulling off a 57mm chainline. how in the world are you getting the chainring that far out? it's about how far the teeth are from the center of the hub/ frame, and matching the ring and cog so they are the same distance so that the chain pulls in a straight line. if you take a hub that has a rigid chainline of 55mm and put spacers on it, you're putting the cog even farther out than the 52mm of non-adjustable chainline on the crankset.

    my confusion about Paul hubs is that they designed a hub with no effective way to adjust the chainline (I would not feel safe putting more than a 1mm spacer behind a freewheel) that does not, on paper at least, line up with the rigid, non-adjustable standards. they should have made the non-boost hub 49mm to match the NON-adjustable chainline of a modern crankset and the boost hub 52mm to match the NON-adjustable, iron-clad established standard chainline of boost cranks.

  45. #45
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    I completely agree with You. While we speak about modern cranksets, i.e. non-adjustable integrated spindle and single-chainring, single-position spiders.

    But there are many other crank options, besides this one. Square taper BB has many spindle length variants, and can be installed with a spacer under right bb cap, for fine tuning. Different cranks has some little difference in geometry and effective chainline relative to axle end. Double or triple spiders has two positions for chainring: inner and outer, so +-7mm here. So, modern is not always good, especially for dedicated ss build. Yes, I am a retrogrouch.

    My setup: shimano UN-26 square taper bb with 110mm spindle, installed with 1mm spacer under right bb cup, and middleburn RS7 cranks with double 5-arm 110BCD spider, and surly chainring on its outer position. So, incredible chainline with minimal Q-factor on non-boost frame with plus tires. I had to file alu spider lockring lightly, to avoid its rub against bb cap. But I could increase front chainline, if I wanted to, with different spindle length: 113mm, 115, 118 and so on, but there is a limit on the rear: more spacers under frewheel make it rub against dropout.

    What about rear spacers - there is fixed threading, that successfully use half of thread width, compared to freewheel.

  46. #46
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    This is one of the reasons why I like to use SS hubs with short freehubs instead of freewheels. It's MUCH easier to get you chainline dialed in perfectly. But, let's assume you are using the above mentioned Paul hub with it's 55mm chainline.

    It's actually very easy to match that with a modern crankset. At least it is with Race Face and SRAM. Both have direct mount chainrings that are offset 6mm toward the bike centerline for 142mm hubs, and then changed to a 3mm offset ring for Boost. So to take a Boost crank and move the chainline out from 52mm to 55mm only requires a new chainring with 0mm offset. If you want to move it out to 58mm, just flip the 3mm offset ring over. There are a couple of manufacturers making these chainrings (Wolf Tooth) as well as the manufacturers. This is for bikes with threaded BSA bottom brackets. Others like BB30 or PF30 will have similar options.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    It's actually very easy to match that with a modern crankset.
    Unlike reverting to the cart-and-buggy days of square taper cranks, that makes sense. My experience for the last few years has been converted 104BCD cranks with single rings, so the adjustments possible on a modern direct-mount interface is new to me.

    Sounds like I would want to buy new cranks with that Paul hub. I'd rather not, but with the price of all the other SS boost options, it might come out in the wash and work better. I might wait for Hope to make a more budget-friendly option.
    Last edited by mack_turtle; 12-12-2018 at 01:35 PM.

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    edit: nevermind. I need to refresh before I reply

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