32:16 versus 32:17- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    32:16 versus 32:17

    How different is a 32:17 to a 32:16?

    Is it noticable or would I need to change to 32:18 to feel a noticable difference?

    I'm new to MTB as well as SS and want to concentrate on learning how to ride in general on the trails, and the 32:16 is just slightly too tough at the end of the climbs. (Close but not quite. I'll change back later.) I have horizontal dropouts on my SASS so chain tension is not an issue.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOLO_ONE
    How different is a 32:17 to a 32:16?

    Is it noticable or would I need to change to 32:18 to feel a noticable difference?

    I'm new to MTB as well as SS and want to concentrate on learning how to ride in general on the trails, and the 32:16 is just slightly too tough at the end of the climbs. (Close but not quite. I'll change back later.) I have horizontal dropouts on my SASS so chain tension is not an issue.
    Very much noticeable. If a 32:16 is just too much, I think you will like the 32:17 a lot. No sense killing yourself.

  3. #3
    Cold. Blue. Steel.
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    agreed

    Quote Originally Posted by ssmike
    Very much noticeable. If a 32:16 is just too much, I think you will like the 32:17 a lot. No sense killing yourself.
    depending on the terrain where you live, 2 to 1 can be a bit tough. especially if you are just starting out on SS.
    2 to 1 is just an easy benchmark to go by when setting up your bike for something that should work well in a variety of riding conditions. don't bother tweeking your knees or back with too big of a gear. experiment and then you will know what is best for you.
    Spinning and Grinning...

  4. #4
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    sass ?

    have any pictures of your sass ??

  5. #5
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    2:1 can be a bit much...

    ...I was running 32:18 on my 26" SS and just transferred all the goods to my 29er SS - approximately equivalent to 2:1 gearing on a 26" bike.

    The short steep switchbacky stuff is a real grunt. Flat and inclines where you can build mo' is fine but the deceleration and restarting can be a bear.

    Going back towards a 1.8:1 ratio by putting a 20t cog on there.

    Sean
    Professional Amateur

  6. #6
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    Well I got it..

    Quote Originally Posted by scottms33
    have any pictures of your sass ??
    Well I was able to get a Shimano SF-MX30 17T at the local Sun-and-Ski and put it on the bike but I have not ridden it yet.

    Here is a link to some pictures of my bike:SASS pictures

    (Sorry they're such low res , I'm using a digital camcorder to make the photos because it's the only digital camera I currently have.)

  7. #7
    formerly Giantxc
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    Definitely a difference. I run 32-17 for general riding, and 32-16 for racing.

  8. #8
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    my SS gear ratio chart

    Here's a chart that i developed for my two SS bikes, one on road, one off road. keep in mind that tire diameter must be kept constant when making comparisons. I only included the chainrings and freewheels that i use. Being visual, this chart helps me understand the extent of differences in various setups as i experiment.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
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    Noticable? Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by SOLO_ONE
    How different is a 32:17 to a 32:16?

    Is it noticable or would I need to change to 32:18 to feel a noticable difference?

    I'm new to MTB as well as SS and want to concentrate on learning how to ride in general on the trails, and the 32:16 is just slightly too tough at the end of the climbs. (Close but not quite. I'll change back later.) I have horizontal dropouts on my SASS so chain tension is not an issue.
    Start out with 32:17. It is a good all around gear for beginning and deciding whether to go lower or higher. After riding 32:17 for a couple of months building up your ss legs/lungs, switch to 32:16 and you'll be amazed how much faster you go, but you will need to stick with it for a couple of rides to get used to it.
    Out of Bounds

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