22-11 gear ratio- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    22-11 gear ratio

    Has anyone tried a 22-11 (or 24-11 etc) gear ratio? It would cut weight because of the smaller cogs, shorter chain, etc. However, would it be an issue if the chain is so far in on the frame? I am using a converted geared hub so I can easily fool with the position of the cog on the freehub. I will be using this gear ratio on a urban/street bike so I don't worry about needing a tall gear to go fast. Right now I am using a 32-17 gear ratio, possibly moving to a 32-16. This is my first venture into singlespeeding and it's great... no more bent XT cassettes to complain about (on my urban bike, that is )

  2. #2
    minister of chaos
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    Quote Originally Posted by MD Bullit
    Has anyone tried a 22-11 (or 24-11 etc) gear ratio? It would cut weight because of the smaller cogs, shorter chain, etc. However, would it be an issue if the chain is so far in on the frame? I am using a converted geared hub so I can easily fool with the position of the cog on the freehub. I will be using this gear ratio on a urban/street bike so I don't worry about needing a tall gear to go fast. Right now I am using a 32-17 gear ratio, possibly moving to a 32-16. This is my first venture into singlespeeding and it's great... no more bent XT cassettes to complain about (on my urban bike, that is )
    Two concerns. 1: Drivetrain wear. With fewer teeth to share the work, they are going to wear out a lot quicker. 2. Chain wrap. With fewer teeth/chain contacting at any given time, each must bear more force. This will increase the likelyhood of breaking and or dropping chains.

    A third, though less important is more drivetrain friction. Actually reasons 3+2=1.

    Unless you really need the clearance (trials, etc), not a good idea.
    Frank Tuesday
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  3. #3
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    Not good

    Much faster chain wear or even breakage because tension in the chain is about 50% greater when compared to a 16T cog or 100% greater compare to a 22T cog (for the same pedaling effort)

  4. #4
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    Bad idea

    This has come up on the board several times before ... you'll see dramatically increased chainring, chain and cog wear, more drivetrain friction/drag, and you'll be far more likely to drop or snap your chain. Versus, say, a 32x16 setup, the weight savings will be negligible -- and actually, you'll need to run a steel chainring to get the same life as an aluminum 32t ring, pretty much wiping out the weight savings completely. And you'll be replacing that 11t cog more often than the roll of TP in your bathroom. Don't do it.

    More teeth = better chain retention, less friction, and most importantly LESS CHAIN TENSION for the same overall gear ratio and power output. A faster moving chain can carry the same amount of power with less tension.

  5. #5
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    makes sense, thanks
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  6. #6
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    20" bmx ratios

    I ride a lot of 20" and you see these type of gear ratios there....even as far as 20x9 but just like they say there is alot of chain breakage and wear. In fact the rear cogs are actually an integrated cog/driver and most are made of Ti. This type of ratio gave rise to the shadow conspiracy chain you see on here....easy to adjust and super strong....but completely necessary if you run these ratios....

    I am with these guys stay away....I don't even do it on my 20"....too many times I have seen the face meet the concrete as some kid blows the chain pedaling ....

    but love the thought....afterall I am sure ideas like that breed change

    Peace

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BThor
    I ride a lot of 20" and you see these type of gear ratios there....even as far as 20x9 but just like they say there is alot of chain breakage and wear. In fact the rear cogs are actually an integrated cog/driver and most are made of Ti. This type of ratio gave rise to the shadow conspiracy chain you see on here....easy to adjust and super strong....but completely necessary if you run these ratios....

    I am with these guys stay away....I don't even do it on my 20"....too many times I have seen the face meet the concrete as some kid blows the chain pedaling ....

    but love the thought....afterall I am sure ideas like that breed change

    Peace
    ah, so using the huge thick chain would cancel out the possible weight losses anyways. Do they use such ratios so they don't hit the chain while grinding or stalling?
    pay me

  8. #8
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    "ah, so using the huge thick chain would cancel out the possible weight losses anyways. Do they use such ratios so they don't hit the chain while grinding or stalling?"

    if your shooting for weight loss, i'd look for other parts to trim before trying this solution. can't think you're going to shave that much off..

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MD Bullit
    ah, so using the huge thick chain would cancel out the possible weight losses anyways. Do they use such ratios so they don't hit the chain while grinding or stalling?
    I guess....BMX is so driven by fad who really knows why it has gained popularity. ALthough the weight addition of the chain is null since they would use the same chain anyhow. Very few run the shadow chain or big chains at all most would run the KMC-510 that is what I also run good chain that resists stretching. If you do neet to run a halflink check out the alliance halflink at www.danscomp.com once in it's great

    peace

  10. #10
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    I'm running a 22/12, (got a steel 12t King cog) it works okay but it's only been on there for two weeks...had to go with a mtb chain, since the thicker BMX chains won't even wrap around the 12t. This is on a P.2 set up for trials, I did it for the clearance...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrwizard
    I'm running a 22/12, (got a steel 12t King cog) it works okay but it's only been on there for two weeks...had to go with a mtb chain, since the thicker BMX chains won't even wrap around the 12t. This is on a P.2 set up for trials, I did it for the clearance...

    I'm personally running 32/20 and use one of the BMX halflink chains. It's bling and heavy, but if I break it, I've done something spectacular...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrwizard
    I'm running a 22/12, (got a steel 12t King cog) it works okay but it's only been on there for two weeks...had to go with a mtb chain, since the thicker BMX chains won't even wrap around the 12t. This is on a P.2 set up for trials, I did it for the clearance...
    if the thick BMX chains won't wrap around the 12t, how to BMXers ride 9t cogs with thick chains?
    pay me

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MD Bullit
    if the thick BMX chains won't wrap around the 12t, how to BMXers ride 9t cogs with thick chains?
    Moet likely because the thick BMX chains are 1/8 and the king cog is 3/32.

  14. #14
    the wrench
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    Quote Originally Posted by BThor
    I ride a lot of 20" and you see these type of gear ratios there....even as far as 20x9 but just like they say there is alot of chain breakage and wear. In fact the rear cogs are actually an integrated cog/driver and most are made of Ti. This type of ratio gave rise to the shadow conspiracy chain you see on here....easy to adjust and super strong....but completely necessary if you run these ratios....

    I am with these guys stay away....I don't even do it on my 20"....too many times I have seen the face meet the concrete as some kid blows the chain pedaling ....

    but love the thought....afterall I am sure ideas like that breed change

    Peace

    the shadow chain was not devoloped to be used on a super small cog set up. one of the design flaws of being half links is that tey will only pivot so far untill one plate binds on the bent one deside it. this is the reason why one of the things clearly stated in the instructions is that it is not to be used on anything smaller than a 13t driver. thus not being designed for the setup as described.
    do it, do it DO IT!!
    DOOOO IIIIIT!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cross4
    Moet likely because the thick BMX chains are 1/8 and the king cog is 3/32.
    thanks cross, that's exactly why....

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