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  1. #1001
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    I can measure a 2011, but that won't help.

  2. #1002
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    Its 30.0mm

  3. #1003
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    2015 Unit with Rekon+.....Yes it fits :)

    HI!

    So... after converting my 2016 Kona Process 153 to 27.5+ I tried to fit those wheels into my Unit. Front easily went in, and the back looked like it would be good, but as that wheel wasn't QR (it is 142) I wasn't 100% sure. SO I built up a wheelset with WTB I29 and got some more Maxxis Rekons. At the same time I cleaned up the welds in the yoke with a file and repainted the 1.5inch sections I flattened out. (I am a bike mechanic, and have built my own steel frames in the 90s)

    Without the weld cleanup there was room, but doing that added another 2-3mm each side. Tires measured @66-67mm and there is a good 5mm spare each side. I went for a muddy ride today and it was fine.

    I checked a medium sized 2016 on the floor of my shop and found that the welding was cleaner and had the same clearance as my modified setup. So it may be that everyones bikes may be slightly different depending on the welder the day it was built

    As for rim choice. I run Heist 30s on the Process and the WTBi29 on the Unit. Having built and ridden Plus bikes with wider rims, I do not feel that there is noticeably more side-wall support for 2.8 tires in the wider rims BUT you do get a wider tire. Of course, if I went wider on the Unit it would not have fitted. DT Swiss have recently released their wider wheelsets and for their 30mm internal rims they recommend 2.5-2.8 tires. I know that Maxxis say they designed the Rekons for wider rims, but I honestly feel that 29/30mm- thru to 35/40mm are good enough for 2.8s. 3"..that is another matter...

    FWIW I am an elite level MTBer and have raced/ridden MTB since 1989 and have had some form of tubeless setup since 1999 (ghetto, then Stans).

    The main reason for converting the Unit was that I wasn't riding it as often as I wanted due to the onset of arthritis in my hands. After feeling how good it made the Process, I knew it would make the Unit perfect for my current needs.

    Rode it today, still point and shoot like before, but maybe better because it has dropped the BB back down to stock (when fork is sagged) after being raised from having 100mm fork put on. Grip is awesome for SS climbing!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-20160713_153145.jpg  

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    2013 Kona Unit-20160713_153133.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-20160713_153231.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-20160714_081243.jpg  

    www.fortrin.net Coaching for health and performance

  4. #1004
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    thats bad ass!

  5. #1005
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    Hi Aaron, thanks for sharing. It's given me an idea

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  6. #1006
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    Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?

    (2015)

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by isis07734 View Post
    Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?

    (2015)
    No. Yes. Yes.

    longer fork = shorter cockpit

  8. #1008
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    Quote Originally Posted by isis07734 View Post
    Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?

    (2015)
    What size frame are you on? I have a large with 740 bars and 60mm stem and it still feels long to me haha. I'm 5'10 but I have a stupid long inseam for my body type.


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  9. #1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by isis07734 View Post
    Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?

    (2015)
    It'll slacken out the steering a degree which isn't a bad thing.

  10. #1010
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    Thanks Ryder and Nordie. I think it's just too small.

    Kikoraa, it's a 19" wanna buy it?

  11. #1011
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    I think that's the same one I have haha.


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  12. #1012
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    Hey guys,

    I have a Kona Unit (2013) that I bought off Craigslist about a year ago. It's an awesome bike, and the first 29er I've ever owned. The guy whom I bought it from converted it to a 1x9, but I am going to be converting it back to a Single Speed very soon here.

    What I wanted to get some input from you all, though, was on some aftermarket parts that I might look into in order to get a more snappy, bmxey feel on my bike? I know some of the components I am going to need to consider swapping are the headset, the stem, the handlebars, and the cranks. Anyone have any recommendations as far as models?

    Thanks a lot for reading!

  13. #1013
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    Why the headset and cranks? That's won't make it snappier. Shorten the stem and widen the bars maybe. 740-760 paired with 50-60mm


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  14. #1014
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Why the headset and cranks? That's won't make it snappier. Shorten the stem and widen the bars maybe. 740-760 paired with 50-60mm


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    Shorten the cranks for a more BMX feel.


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  15. #1015
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    Forgive me if it's not the right place to ask, but does anyone know if a Shimano xt m8000 Groupset would fit on the 2016 unit?

  16. #1016
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    broken / snapped project two fork

    i couldn't find anywhere on the net, but
    has anyone experienced or heard of a p2 fork collapsing?
    we had an incident in the community these days, the guy is probably still hospitalized.
    two of my friends and me ride the 2013 rigid too, them pretty much panicking right now swearing not to get onto their units until replacing the forks for squishy ones. we do technical rocky trails so the bike really gets its share.
    i do not want to give up riding rigid, any advice is welcome. thanks!
    2013 Kona Unit-brokenp2.jpg

  17. #1017
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaZZarDaZZle View Post
    i couldn't find anywhere on the net, but
    has anyone experienced or heard of a p2 fork collapsing?
    we had an incident in the community these days, the guy is probably still hospitalized.
    two of my friends and me ride the 2013 rigid too, them pretty much panicking right now swearing not to get onto their units until replacing the forks for squishy ones. we do technical rocky trails so the bike really gets its share.
    i do not want to give up riding rigid, any advice is welcome. thanks!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    First off I hope for a speedy recovery!

    Has anyone contacted Kona? I just switch my p2 fork out for a Niner carbon fork but I never had any issues and didn't see any signs either.

  18. #1018
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    Whoa. That's pretty surprising. Never ever heard of that. Unless the fork was defective it's hard to imagine working it hard enough to break it like that! I'd be MORE afraid of a carbon fork failing.
    I ride a 2014. I ride in rocky SoCal, but then again, I'm a featherweight old geezer so I don't weigh much and I mostly just crawl through the rough stuff anyway. Man, I hope the dude is OK.

  19. #1019
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    I also have a 2013 Kona Unit.
    I only rode a few miles with the stock P2 fork and sold it because I already have more confortable forks (salsa cromoto and white brothers).

    But this broken fork shown in the picture doesn't look like a P2 fork.
    Are you sure it is a P2? At least a stock P2 fork?

    Here's a picture of mine (before I sold it). You can see there are some differences...

    2013 Kona Unit-wp_20151118_007.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-wp_20151118_007.jpg  


  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by danield View Post
    But this broken fork shown in the picture doesn't look like a P2 fork.
    Are you sure it is a P2? At least a stock P2 fork?
    good point! i am not sure if this was a P2 fork...

    i'll try to find out and update

  21. #1021
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    Hmmm--does look a little different--the blades look to have a different contour from the really round/tubular P2, like they flatten a bit near the top. Hard to tell though....

  22. #1022
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    Doesn't look like a P2, The legs near the dropouts are far too tapered.

  23. #1023
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    that's pretty much my worst nightmare. i agree it doesn't really look like a P2. I rode a P2 pretty hard for one season, i'm was 205 lbs and not gentle. mine looks like danields picture.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  24. #1024
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    Tapered, ovalized, doesn't say "P2" near the dropouts. Looks a bit longer/taller than P2, also. What is that thing?

  25. #1025
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    Here's mine, a bit slack with the tapered 100mm fork. I'm looking into building a 650b+ wheel set as soon as I get around to it. Do you think the I35s will definitely be a no go in the rear with 2.8s?

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-imag1491.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-imag1485.jpg  


  26. #1026
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryder1 View Post
    Tapered, ovalized, doesn't say "P2" near the dropouts. Looks a bit longer/taller than P2, also. What is that thing?
    looking at it again, it's not a stock build. it's got to be a frame up build. the mis-matched wheels, cranks, seatpost, saddle, bars, brakes, etc. all look like they came off of other bikes. so the fork could be anything. sadly my bet is it came off a department store bike.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  27. #1027
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickyFiggz View Post
    Here's mine, a bit slack with the tapered 100mm fork. I'm looking into building a 650b+ wheel set as soon as I get around to it. Do you think the I35s will definitely be a no go in the rear with 2.8s?

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    Definitely. Buy a 2017 when they come out, strip it and sell the kit off it. Easy money and makes the frame work out free 2 super cheap and now you can 29 or 27.5+

  28. #1028
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    Has anyone upgraded cranks on their 2013's? Yesterday I had the left arm come off during a ride, thankfully it was a few feet after a large climb. The ends of the teeth got a little mangled.

    What's s good crankset in the $150 range?

  29. #1029
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    SRAM nx or shimano zee both within the $100 range , even shimano xt is on sale at Jenson right now. With whatever's left over you can spend it on a new bb.

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  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDK08 View Post
    What's s good crankset in the $150 range?
    Shimano SLX/XT are the best bang for the buck hands down. check Ebay for new take offs in the $100 range. blueskycycling sometimes has good deals too.

    you can also get a decent Raceface crank in that range.

    I'm never going to own another Sram crank. the BB's are junk.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  31. #1031
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  32. #1032
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    Used XT:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/401218513504


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  33. #1033
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDK08 View Post
    Has anyone upgraded cranks on their 2013's? Yesterday I had the left arm come off during a ride, thankfully it was a few feet after a large climb. The ends of the teeth got a little mangled.

    What's s good crankset in the $150 range?
    I had XO downhill on mine as wanted to swap rings on fly and was a 2011 when not as many options. Now have a raceface aefect and love it (on another bike) and love direct fit chainrings, but have to agree SLX is great, if you do not want a direct mount ring. The only issue I have with aefect is dreadfull crank extractor needed which is unlikely to be to hand on a trail, so if for $150 you can get one with normal bolts then better. slx is simples and effective, and never going to loosen on trail

  34. #1034
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    Does the 2015 unit take 2.4 ardent w/o any pain as back wheel, with sliders slammed?

    It looks like we are getting 4-5mo with snowfall here where i live, so better to get the unit in shape.

    Does aneone know any good aftermarkert wheelset, that would be a lighter that stock wtb i23īs, but wont cost arm and leg? They doesnt need to hold any extreme mtb riding, kona is at the moment my commuter.

  35. #1035
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    2015 with 2.4 will be no worries

  36. #1036
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    Quote Originally Posted by keevo View Post
    Does the 2015 unit take 2.4 ardent w/o any pain as back wheel, with sliders slammed?

    It looks like we are getting 4-5mo with snowfall here where i live, so better to get the unit in shape.

    Does aneone know any good aftermarkert wheelset, that would be a lighter that stock wtb i23īs, but wont cost arm and leg? They doesnt need to hold any extreme mtb riding, kona is at the moment my commuter.
    2.4 Ardents, rolling without issues. Wish I would have gotten the tan walls thou.

    2013 Kona Unit-img_20160919_174248.jpg2013 Kona Unit-img_20160911_121501.jpg

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  37. #1037
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    My2015 fits ardent 2.4 just fine.


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  38. #1038
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    Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
    Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11", my ratios about normal at my height (well not everything but thats not relevant to bike size . About 32" inseam I think. I can get a medium 2016 in the black / orange. I don't really care for the colour, but other than that a use 2013 20" is the only thing available near me (NZ, so limited option). The new 2017 come out in a few weeks at full price and I don't really want the 27.5+, I suppose I could get some 29 wheels and swap over.


    Size help - should I be ok on the medium (17" i think). I prefer shorter stem than long, and do not want to feel cramped. However, I am going off road with it so want something fun rather than larger and more stable feeling.

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by froutts View Post
    Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
    Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11", my ratios about normal at my height (well not everything but thats not relevant to bike size . About 32" inseam I think. I can get a medium 2016 in the black / orange. I don't really care for the colour, but other than that a use 2013 20" is the only thing available near me (NZ, so limited option). The new 2017 come out in a few weeks at full price and I don't really want the 27.5+, I suppose I could get some 29 wheels and swap over.


    Size help - should I be ok on the medium (17" i think). I prefer shorter stem than long, and do not want to feel cramped. However, I am going off road with it so want something fun rather than larger and more stable feeling.
    Hey froutts, I'm 5'11 and I ride a large, I like the size and feel like it fits me well, but I do like riding bigger bikes, I had a medium in a different brand and it was nice because you can throw it around the corners a bit better. I have heard you can fit 27.5 x 2.8 size tires on these bikes which can make your medium a super fun and fast bike, hope that helps your decision making process

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  40. #1040
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    Quote Originally Posted by froutts View Post
    Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
    Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11", my ratios about normal at my height (well not everything but thats not relevant to bike size . About 32" inseam I think. I can get a medium 2016 in the black / orange. I don't really care for the colour, but other than that a use 2013 20" is the only thing available near me (NZ, so limited option). The new 2017 come out in a few weeks at full price and I don't really want the 27.5+, I suppose I could get some 29 wheels and swap over.


    Size help - should I be ok on the medium (17" i think). I prefer shorter stem than long, and do not want to feel cramped. However, I am going off road with it so want something fun rather than larger and more stable feeling.
    Hmmm, I'm only about 5'8" and I ride a 2014 17" Unit. It is the most comfortable bike I've ever owned. It LOOKS a little big for me, but my standover is OK, and man, I wouldn't want the cockpit to be any tighter. I guess I can't throw it around like I might be able to with the smaller one, but on long rides I never feel cramped at all. Take this FWIW--it's the first 29'r I've ever owned so I don;t have a lot to compare with.

  41. #1041
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    My brother in law is 5'11" and rides a Medium 2011. Being a rigid 29er makes the bike feel big, imo. I am 5'7" and ended up with a small. I can normally ride Medium frames but not this bike.

    But a smaller frame is more toss-able. For me, it's more fun.


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  42. #1042
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    Thanks for the replies,

    I now have found a 2016 in large in stock in one shop - probably the last left in the country. But that is a large ( about 19") and I can get it for about $1150 nzd, or I can get a used 2013 20" for $600 nzd.

    I did ride a 2014 19" for a time and that was a decent fit, so maybe the 20" with a shorter stem and wider bars ?

  43. #1043
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    6'2" on a 20" with a Thomson setback post, 60mm stem and 720mm bars.
    2013 Kona Unit-nd4_8992.jpg
    2013 Kona Unit-nd4_9146.jpg

  44. #1044
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    Thanks Nordieboy,

    Looks like it could work for me, a straight seat post maybe 50mm stem. Do you think a 5'11" could make your bike work?

  45. #1045
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    i also have a 20" but it's too small for me, 6'3" (115mm stem). I'm looking for an XL to replace it.

    you should easily be able to ride a 19-20" at 5'11". the other thing to consider is geo as it progressed a bit from 2013 to 2016. the older being a little more traditional XC geo (which i like for this kind of bike) and the newer frames are a little more "trail".
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  46. #1046
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    Hmmm, I do like the newer trail bike geo. and I imagine that could work well for me on this type of bike. But at doublet price, I think I may stick to the 20" used. Thanks for the reply.

  47. #1047
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    Single speed, no problem.
    Geared, short stem, straight post, seat forward...

    I was running mine for XC racing with a 100mm stem with no problems.

  48. #1048
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    Quote Originally Posted by froutts View Post
    Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
    Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11",...
    froutts, i am 5'10'', i had full suspension specialized stumpjumpers in M and L. i felt much better on M that i did on the newer L. when i went to buy my unit, i naturally looked for M. in the test ride M felt a bit too cramped, it's single speed, you will spend quite some time pedaling while standing. no fun to have to cockpit between your knees all the time. so i took the L version, never regretted.
    Later i added a geared honzo to the collection, chose M, perfect fit.
    so i think the unit can or should be a tad larger than your suspension bikes would be. 20'' might be too large though.
    test ride them, feel them and then decide.
    good luck and welcome to the club :-)
    hazz

  49. #1049
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    Great to hear thanks hazz. I have got a 20". Should be fine. Coincidentally I have just this weekend accidentally bought a steel honzo 2016 ! Is yours the steel, and how do you find it climbing? That's the only concern I think I have about it - obviously before I've evne ridden it!

  50. #1050
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    accidentally! lol! i love you man!
    i have the 2015 steel honzo. it's a great bike, it's fun, it's climbing, no problem.
    i used to call it my "last" bike, just nothing left to top it, especially since i still keep the unit, split the yearly 4000 kms equally between the two.
    the only downside of my honzo is its weight, 14.5 kg including pedals, bottle holder, tubeless, saddle bag with spare tube and few tools.
    i ride for fun and for fitness and prefer the bike sturdy over light.

    have fun with your bikes!

  51. #1051
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    I got my 2016 Unit down to 23.5 lbs.

    Here's a recent pic with the titanium fork and some carbon bits.

    This bike really livens up when it's light.




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  52. #1052
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    Damn.. that's light! Did you go tubeless too?

  53. #1053
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    Quote Originally Posted by isis07734 View Post
    Damn.. that's light! Did you go tubeless too?
    Yep, tubeless, carbon handlebar, stem and seatpost. XT crankset (175mm vs stock 170 FSA) but not sure that lost weight. I'm pretty sure the XT hydro brakes gained some weight. Even kept the stock tires which appear to be wire beaded. The rear hub was replaced recently as well but I don't think there was any weight reduction with that. The weight loss was mainly the titanium fork and carbon bits plus running tubeless.


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  54. #1054
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    The Unit becomes a rocket when made light, loving it. Started as a stock bike but changed all parts except for the frame itself. Not sure about weight but i think its in the 20-21 lbs range.



    Kona Unit 2015 frame (M)
    Niner RDO fork
    Hope headset, BB, brakes & rotors
    Syntace Vector & P6 highflex
    X0 crank with XX1 spider & ring (34T)
    LB 34/28 rims with DT350 hubs (12x142)
    Racing Ralph 2.25 (F) & 2.10 (R) with Stan's
    15T cog, KMC X9SL, Fizik Tundra 2, ESI grips
    Last edited by BartP; 02-24-2017 at 11:18 PM.

  55. #1055
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    ^ nice build.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  56. #1056
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    Alright, I'm thinking about another upgrade. Anybody running 27.5+ on their 2013 units? If so what rim and tire combo are you able to fit in the back? I'm thinking lightest tires I can find in the 2.8" width, as well as lightest alu rims

  57. #1057
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDK08 View Post
    Alright, I'm thinking about another upgrade. Anybody running 27.5+ on their 2013 units? If so what rim and tire combo are you able to fit in the back? I'm thinking lightest tires I can find in the 2.8" width, as well as lightest alu rims
    go back a page or two, pretty sure it won't fit.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  58. #1058
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    In the market for a new SS frame. I am 6'1" with a 33" inseam. Could I make a medium frame work or should I settle for a large? Keep in mind I am a elite racer and I prefer a quick steering, "flick-able" bike. thanks

  59. #1059
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcracer87 View Post
    In the market for a new SS frame. I am 6'1" with a 33" inseam. Could I make a medium frame work or should I settle for a large? Keep in mind I am a elite racer and I prefer a quick steering, "flick-able" bike. thanks
    Go large. I'm 5,10 on a large and my seatpost shoots pretty far out of the frame. We're all elite racers here at MTBR


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  60. #1060
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Go large. I'm 5,10 on a large and my seatpost shoots pretty far out of the frame. We're all elite racers here at MTBR


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the advice!

    From,
    one elite racer to the other! haha

  61. #1061
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    up for sale...I had a lot of great times on this Unit

    2013 Kona Unit-screen-shot-2016-11-25-10.50.46-am.jpg

  62. #1062
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    Hi
    I had try to put my front week 27.5+ on unit front fork 2013 and it fit.
    I do not try the rear weel it looks not fired

  63. #1063
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yuval11 View Post
    Hi
    I had try to put my front week 27.5+ on unit front fork 2013 and it fit.
    I do not try the rear weel it looks not fired
    Which 27.5+ tire did you fit in the Unit fork?

  64. #1064
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    Quote Originally Posted by djembe975 View Post
    Which 27.5+ tire did you fit in the Unit fork?

    I try 27.5x3.0 WTB taken from my unit 2017

  65. #1065
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    That explains it, I had a 2013 and couldn't fit a plus tire in it but the Trailblazer tire is a bit narrow more like a 2.4 at the tread.

  66. #1066
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    I had change my Unit 2014 to Unit 2017 only for this fat wheels

  67. #1067
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcracer87 View Post
    Thanks for the advice!

    From,
    one elite racer to the other! haha
    Agreed... I'm 6'0" with a 34" inseam and ride a large. I'm actually selling my 2013 Unit (see classifieds or contact me if interested).

  68. #1068
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    After jumping on the plus bandwagon I'm thinking of selling my beautiful purple unit to get the new plus model

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

  69. #1069
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    I'm looking at getting a 2016 Kona Unit but I'm having trouble deciding on the correct size. There are none available to test ride where I live so I will need to have it shipped to me. I've read all off the posts regarding sizing and I'm still a little unsure. I've looked at the 2014, 2015 & 2016 geometry charts and it seems that the sizing has changed for 2016. Based on the top tube measurement I'm thinking a medium would suit but based on reach I'm thing a large. Like a previous poster has mentioned I also feel more comfortable on a medium stumpjumper than a large. I've owned a large 2010 stumpjumper and always felt the bike was too big, 90mm stock stem didn't help. I'm roughly 5.10 maybe 5.11 on a good day. Any help would be appreciated.

    What is the stem length on the medium and the large bikes?

    For reference my previous bikes have all been mediums, 2011 Anthem 29er, 2013 Reign, 2015 Reign

  70. #1070
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    edit: opsss, I almost posted my unit (2017) here, but noted it's not SS (now). maybe I will try it as SS (I own on other SS too now) in the future and will post a pic or two then! BTW, very nice bikes, guys, I collected much inspiration from your pics, thank you!

  71. #1071
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    broken fork update

    Quote Originally Posted by HaZZarDaZZle View Post
    i couldn't find anywhere on the net, but
    has anyone experienced or heard of a p2 fork collapsing?
    we had an incident in the community these days, the guy is probably still hospitalized.
    two of my friends and me ride the 2013 rigid too, them pretty much panicking right now swearing not to get onto their units until replacing the forks for squishy ones. we do technical rocky trails so the bike really gets its share.
    i do not want to give up riding rigid, any advice is welcome. thanks!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    update: i met the guy today. it was the original kona p2 fork that snapped. probably a combination of weight, force and bad luck.
    he recovered and put in a new p2 and keeps on single speeding.

  72. #1072
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaZZarDaZZle View Post
    update: i met the guy today. it was the original kona p2 fork that snapped. probably a combination of weight, force and bad luck.
    he recovered and put in a new p2 and keeps on single speeding.
    Did he buy the bike new?

    Those lower legs still look suspicious. The only P2's that had a fully tapering leg were the 700c versions even going back to the 26" versions.
    Usually the P2's are stamped/painted as such.

  73. #1073
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    I zoomed in on those legs. They don't look like mine do.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  74. #1074
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    I have a 2015 and really need to build a new wheeleset. I was trying to decide between i25 and i29. I run ardent or Nobby nic 2.4 and was hoping it wouldn't bulge too much on an i29. What do you guys think?

  75. #1075
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    i25 would be too close to what you're running. i29 isn't TOO wide by any means.

  76. #1076
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    yep, i29

  77. #1077
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    i25 would be too close to what you're running. i29 isn't TOO wide by any means.
    the honzo 2015 comes with i25 and ardent 2.4 in front, why would that be too close?

  78. #1078
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    I have a 2015 and really need to build a new wheeleset. I was trying to decide between i25 and i29. I run ardent or Nobby nic 2.4 and was hoping it wouldn't bulge too much on an i29. What do you guys think?
    I just built up a wheelset using WTB Asym i29's for my 2010 unit. Currently running Maxxis Forecaster 2.35 front, Ardent race 2.35 rear.

    Definitely an improvement over my i23 rims, much more stability and can run much lower pressures. Tyres remain nice an round but have gained volume. Having said that I am interested in going down the WTB route for tyres, maybe a 2.4 Trailboss.

    What are your concerns around tyres bulging? Clearance?

  79. #1079
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaZZarDaZZle View Post
    the honzo 2015 comes with i25 and ardent 2.4 in front, why would that be too close?
    Too close, as in the 2015 Unit already has an i23 wheelset.

  80. #1080
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    Hey everyone,

    I've been lurking the singlespeed forum for a while since I just picked up a used 2015 Unit last October. You guys have a great community...I've gained a lot of information here and it's nice to see everyone helping each other out (not always the case in other forums).

    So I thought I'd put up some pics of my Unit (haha), which by now only has the frame, saddle, and wheels as stock.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-19551766_10155480351042959_264198400_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19578923_10155480356202959_965377179_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19576551_10155480358692959_721291247_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19551724_10155480360617959_1387075846_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19549365_10155480365982959_1097157118_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19576543_10155480371377959_176878476_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19551537_10155480373817959_228597036_o.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-19549544_10155480376197959_1699689277_o.jpg  


  81. #1081
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    That's a nice build. I can't wait to get mine up and running again.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  82. #1082
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    hi,

    i have a 2012 Kona Unit single speed and want to substitute the original FSA cranks. I know nothing about what might fit and work. Could someone please tell me what size/type of BB i need and if there's anything in particular i need to look for in terms of cranks (will 10 speed or 11 speed slx or raceface cranks work?).

    thank you
    Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken.

  83. #1083
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    Anything Euro threaded will work. Just don't get fat bike cranks. Try to find cranks that use outboard or external bottom bracket cups. You have your pick of SRAM Shimano Race Face Etc. You could even run profile racing cranks with profile racing external bb cups.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  84. #1084
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickyFiggz View Post
    Anything Euro threaded will work. Just don't get fat bike cranks. Try to find cranks that use outboard or external bottom bracket cups. You have your pick of SRAM Shimano Race Face Etc. You could even run profile racing cranks with profile racing external bb cups.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    thank you rickyfiggz. is there an axle size i need to specifically look for?
    Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken.

  85. #1085
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    Quote Originally Posted by stepping-razor View Post
    thank you rickyfiggz. is there an axle size i need to specifically look for?
    the bottom bracket you need for the crankset will be specifc to the crankset and has very little to do with the frame. if you get any moderen crankset, the spindle will be permanently attached to one of the arms. you just have to get a bottom bracket that goes with that crankset.

  86. #1086
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickyFiggz View Post
    That's a nice build. I can't wait to get mine up and running again.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Thanks!

    By the way, I saw someone mentioned that they were thinking about the WTB Trail Boss tires...I'm using the 2.4s and I'm loving them on this bike. Stock i23 rims.

  87. #1087
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    the bottom bracket you need for the crankset will be specifc to the crankset and has very little to do with the frame. if you get any moderen crankset, the spindle will be permanently attached to one of the arms. you just have to get a bottom bracket that goes with that crankset.
    thank you mack_turtle!!!
    Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken.

  88. #1088
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    I have a 2015 and really need to build a new wheeleset. I was trying to decide between i25 and i29. I run ardent or Nobby nic 2.4 and was hoping it wouldn't bulge too much on an i29. What do you guys think?
    I might be too choosy, but I ran Ardents 2.4 on Mavic 729 (29mm iw) and on Asym i35 (35mm iw) and found 729 rim are a bit too narrow for a proper 2.4 tire.
    Before all that "wide rims fuss" were even here, I was running normal 2.2-2.5 tires on wide trials rims and the amount of traction and bump compliance that setup had (even on mid to higher pressures) made me a strong supporter of wider rims. To my mind, you will no way be able to reach any excessive bulging with ~30mm internal width rims anyway...

  89. #1089
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pucker Factor View Post
    Thanks!

    By the way, I saw someone mentioned that they were thinking about the WTB Trail Boss tires...I'm using the 2.4s and I'm loving them on this bike. Stock i23 rims.
    Yep that was me, what's the rear clearance like? Running Maxxis AR 2.35 currently and have about 5mm between tyre and chainstays.

  90. #1090
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    Quote Originally Posted by OliSS View Post
    Yep that was me, what's the rear clearance like? Running Maxxis AR 2.35 currently and have about 5mm between tyre and chainstays.
    I haven't measured it but I would say there's adequate clearance. You'll only have trouble if you hit some really sticky mud.

  91. #1091
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    Quote Originally Posted by stepping-razor View Post
    thank you mack_turtle!!!
    I'm not trying to sell you in. But, this is a great value that includes the bottom bracket and will accomadate a 10 speed drive train. (68-73mm) bb spacing is the norm for modern setups. That kit should include spacers too but you don't need them since the unit has 73mm bb spacing.

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  92. #1092
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickyFiggz View Post
    I'm not trying to sell you in. But, this is a great value that includes the bottom bracket and will accomadate a 10 speed drive train. (68-73mm) bb spacing is the norm for modern setups. That kit should include spacers too but you don't need them since the unit has 73mm bb spacing.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    thank you! i will look into it!
    Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken.

  93. #1093
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    If anyone's interested I've got a 2013 18" Kona Unit frame with carbon Ritchie fork for sale.

  94. #1094
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    hi, can someone please recommend a reliable dropper post that would fit a 2012 kona unit?

    thank you

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    Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken.

  95. #1095
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    TMARS, Thomson, Gravity Dropper.
    The Thomson is the most expensive and nicest.
    I've got the cheapest one. TMARS. It works.

  96. #1096
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    Hoping someone can help me out. A used 2013 Unit came up for sale locally, and it's my size. Having a tough time putting a value on the bike, was wondering what you all think a good condition 2013 Unit would be worth? Thanks.

  97. #1097
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    Quote Originally Posted by pade View Post
    Hoping someone can help me out. A used 2013 Unit came up for sale locally, and it's my size. Having a tough time putting a value on the bike, was wondering what you all think a good condition 2013 Unit would be worth? Thanks.
    Here's something to go by.

    2013 Kona Unit-screen-shot-2017-09-14-4.34.32-pm.jpg
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  98. #1098
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    Hello Unit Community! Could one of you please report on the tire clearance of the 2013 Unit? I am a desert dweller and need very little space for mud or snow.

    You will be saving me a few hours drive for possibly nothing!

    If you care for specifics, I have a i35 rims.

    Back story, I've had a Redline Monocog since 2010, just got a new '18 Honzo ST (LOOOVE IT!), and a '13 Unit went up for sale in may area and the Monocog's small tire clearance and toe overlap issues are making me wan to replace it with the Unit.

    Thank you in advance!
    ~John (BigBMX)
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten. ~Benjamin Franklin

  99. #1099
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    What size tire are you interested in running?

    The 2013 unit will easily clear any 29x2.4" tire, and probably some 2.5's. It will not clear B+.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  100. #1100
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    This might help I found this somewhere in the forums.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  101. #1101
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    A 2.4" would be good. I'd love to tuck a 29x2.6" Rekon in there... Thank you for the help, Ricky and OneSpeed!
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten. ~Benjamin Franklin

  102. #1102
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    Update on my Unit 2013

    I never got tired of my Unit 2013, but finally it got tired of me.
    2013 Kona Unit-20190425_173655.jpg
    The frame broke, and that breaks my heart.
    5 years and 7200 km of pure fun with a perfect bike that never complained and endured much more than i expected.

    Thank you Kona, I loved that bike

  103. #1103
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaZZarDaZZle View Post
    I never got tired of my Unit 2013, but finally it got tired of me.
    Thank you Kona, I loved that bike
    Steel should be repairable.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  104. #1104
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    Might as well try getting a warranty replacement if you're the original owner.

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  105. #1105
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaZZarDaZZle View Post
    I never got tired of my Unit 2013, but finally it got tired of me.
    sorry to see your frame broken. 5yrs/7200km does not seem too much of a lifespan for a steel frame, to be honest.

    are you a heavyweight or agressive rider? (just curious, since i have a 2015 Unit and my biggest fear is to see it as your someday...)

    i cannot imagine why kona has applied this 'yoke' for the last 5-6 years. the right side is so frighteningly thin...

    warranty replacement may work, yes, but i can't help thinking of the sh.t geo of the 2017-2018-2019 models...

  106. #1106
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    I did a thing!

    I did a weird thing.
    Got sick of pedal strikes and low bottom brackets. Sold my 2018 Stumpy to get this gorgeous Orange 2013 Kona Unit!
    2013 Kona Unit-57884618818__dd6f253b-ad50-44ee-a06b-8a90b8ea9cb0.jpg

    Got it at a bike swap and sold the stumpy the next day, the GEO is a dream

    After reading through this forum I am planning to make it a single speed or 1x10(NH hills!). got some 2.4 Ardents ready to mount and a lovely dropper post.

    I'm going out this weekend for a long ride to try out how I like rigid single speed. Wish me luck.

    Any thoughts on a 100mm fork if I do decide to go that direction?

  107. #1107
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    Quote Originally Posted by godbout.t View Post
    I did a weird thing.
    Got sick of pedal strikes and low bottom brackets. Sold my 2018 Stumpy to get this gorgeous Orange 2013 Kona Unit!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	57884618818__DD6F253B-AD50-44EE-A06B-8A90B8EA9CB0.jpg 
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    Got it at a bike swap and sold the stumpy the next day, the GEO is a dream

    After reading through this forum I am planning to make it a single speed or 1x10(NH hills!). got some 2.4 Ardents ready to mount and a lovely dropper post.

    I'm going out this weekend for a long ride to try out how I like rigid single speed. Wish me luck.

    Any thoughts on a 100mm fork if I do decide to go that direction?
    That's how we all end up here. We get sick of rebuilding suspensions pedaling slow in the easiest gear and wanting to ride a new Trail that we've ridden a thousand times. I tried all that stuff and just went super basic. No dropper but post carbon. No remote lockout fork go rigid carbon Fork. High engagement hub and a nice wheelset. Quality Carbon Bar. I tried those build ideas at some point but the dropper and the forks ended up not feeling as good as the raw animal a rigid bike can be. Each finds their own way to SS but we are all pumped to find one another on the trail. Sounds like an awesome build. Keep it up. One ladt thing i would go through BB regularly. Tip of the day is Shimano xtr. Cheap and nice.

  108. #1108
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    ^ sweet! I'm jealous.

    I wasn't a fan of the P2 fork, switched to carbon fork and was much happier. High volume tubeless tires are key for ride comfort on a rigid bike.

    100mm fork? Well, if you have to. Realistically if this is your only bike it will make the bike more versatile, more comfortable on rough terrain or longer rides, and faster going down.

    The tradeoff isn't too bad, but once you experience the efficiency of doing standing climbs with a rigid fork nothing else compares.

    Sweet bike!
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  109. #1109
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    Yeah the BB is going to be swapped out once the "grind" and noises begins.

    Wheels will be one day soon as well, hopefully carbon. the dropper is something to try, if its no good, then it goes back and ill probably add in some carbon parts: stem, handlebars, seatpost, etc.

    Thanks for the advice and tips though!

  110. #1110
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    ^ sweet! I'm jealous.

    I wasn't a fan of the P2 fork, switched to carbon fork and was much happier. High volume tubeless tires are key for ride comfort on a rigid bike.

    100mm fork? Well, if you have to. Realistically if this is your only bike it will make the bike more versatile, more comfortable on rough terrain or longer rides, and faster going down.

    The tradeoff isn't too bad, but once you experience the efficiency of doing standing climbs with a rigid fork nothing else compares.

    Sweet bike!
    From your signature list of bikes, I think we will be best friends!
    tubeless for sure, right now its a mix match wheel set. an i23 rim and a XM119. I'll setup them hub gorilla tubeless and see how they do.

    I wouldn't mind the 100mm suspension, mainly on the descents and rock gardens but i think learning to put less weight in my arm and more in the pedals will help. All about learning how to ride rigid.

    Thanks for the advice and enjoy your sweet rides man!

  111. #1111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    237
    Ok, so I was thinking about doing this for a while but I was too lazy to do the wrenching and my Unit was entertaining in its original set-up. But today I had the time and moved ahead, put 650B wheels (robbed from my 45650B) in my 2015 Unit. ...and made a test-ride of course. It was interesting...





    Bottom-line: although the bike behaved as awesome as always and the wheel-swap didn't cause any unexpected problems, I'll go back to 29er wheels. The change (buying another set of 650B wheels for this bike) simple wouldn't worth the cost. Instead I will spend the money on lighter 29er rims to lighten up the Unit a bit.

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