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  1. #401
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    90mm on the 19" (2013)

    rog

  2. #402
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    Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a new wheelset. Could someone tell if this rear hub is appropriate for the 13' Unit? it's 135mm. I'm assuming that will fit? Does it matter if I get the bolt on or the QR version? Here's a link to the hub:

    Universal Cycles -- DT Swiss 240s Single Speed Disc Hub

    Cheers

  3. #403
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    Has anybody weighed the crankset/bb? I've been meaning to pull mine, but I've been too lazy.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  4. #404
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    Hi. I'm a roadie but I've been itching to get a mountain bike and when I saw the 2013 kona unit I thought it would be a great bike for me. I don't have the bike yet but should have it by next week and I can't wait to ride it.

    But I do have 1 question, is anyone running stock wheels and tires tubeless? The LBS expressed some concerns with going tubeless with the stock wheels and tires.

    Thanks for the help.

  5. #405
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    I went tubeless just with some gorilla tape and stans valves and sealant. Couldn't get the Ikons to seat, but I didn't try too hard before buying 2.4 ardents. These seated with no hassles at all and hold air perfectly. Never burped. All good!

  6. #406
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    Sounds good. Thanks

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by gilly_mtb View Post
    I went tubeless just with some gorilla tape and stans valves and sealant. Couldn't get the Ikons to seat, but I didn't try too hard before buying 2.4 ardents. These seated with no hassles at all and hold air perfectly. Never burped. All good!
    Do you run the 2.4 ardents front and rear? No fit issues? What psi?

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatlyne View Post
    Those all sound like pluses to me. I wish they still made the straight steer in orange.

    The cost of the tapered fork (RDO) and associated (required) hardware to accommodate for it seem somewhat prohibitive.
    Flatlyne, I picked up the Niner fork in Orange from my LBS about a month ago. They had it in stock no less. Want me to see if they have another? It sure looks good with the 2013 natural frame with Orange decals.

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondc84 View Post
    Do you run the 2.4 ardents front and rear? No fit issues? What psi?
    Sorry for the late reply just saw this. Yes 2.4 Ardents front and rear with no issues. Depending on the trail conditions, I've run 18-22psi up front, and generally about 25psi in the rear. ON RAILS. Love it.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berserker666 View Post
    Flatlyne, I picked up the Niner fork in Orange from my LBS about a month ago. They had it in stock no less. Want me to see if they have another? It sure looks good with the 2013 natural frame with Orange decals.
    PM sent Berserker

  11. #411
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    Just picked up the frame on sale and built it up 1x10 with parts I had:
    18" frame
    Fox 100 rlc
    XT cranks with 32t RF narrow/wide
    XT shadow plus rear der
    Haven wheels
    Formula Oro Bianco brakes

    Love the geo on this, with shortish CS and slackish HT: has anyone measured this with 100mm fork? I'm guessing around 68.5? Feels very balanced and fun. Climbs great too!

    EDIT: I know this is in the singlespeed forum, I do have a Raijin SS, and I may swap drive trains to run the Unit SS and the Raijin geared. We'll see!

    2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by So Cal RX View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    S.T.T. with the Luge in the background?

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycljunkie View Post
    S.T.T. with the Luge in the background?
    You got it! One of my favorite rides up to Old Camp and down the Luge. Was a little wet on Friday, but had fun on the Unit.

  14. #414
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    My old hood! Used to live in R.S.M.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  15. #415
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    so, I've had my Kona Unit for a couple weeks now and I love it, it is a blast on the trails. I noticed at the end of my ride today I was getting some break rub from the rear end. The front end has rubbed a few times and i have been able to resolve it no problem but I can't seem to fix it on the rear end. Any suggestions on what I need to do to resolve the break rub? I have stock wheels and stock Avid breaks.

    Thanks for the help.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondc84 View Post
    so, I've had my Kona Unit for a couple weeks now and I love it, it is a blast on the trails. I noticed at the end of my ride today I was getting some break rub from the rear end. The front end has rubbed a few times and i have been able to resolve it no problem but I can't seem to fix it on the rear end. Any suggestions on what I need to do to resolve the break rub? I have stock wheels and stock Avid breaks.

    Thanks for the help.
    Sorry to be blunt but the stock brakes are crap. I plan on swapping them out after the holidays. I had the same issue and finally put it on the stand to investigate why a few weeks ago. It turns out the calipers needed adjusted. The dial adjustments were all out of whack too. My rub was coming from the outside pad so I had to push the caliper to the right a tad to eliminate the rub when free wheeling. Been okay since.

  17. #417
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    A few updates to the unit, new seat post, stem and carbon flat bars. New tires and a set of lunar cogs that are awesome! This thing is a climbing beast!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg  


  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by peridigm View Post
    Sorry to be blunt but the stock brakes are crap. I plan on swapping them out after the holidays. I had the same issue and finally put it on the stand to investigate why a few weeks ago. It turns out the calipers needed adjusted. The dial adjustments were all out of whack too. My rub was coming from the outside pad so I had to push the caliper to the right a tad to eliminate the rub when free wheeling. Been okay since.
    The stock breaks may suck but I'm stuck with them for the time being. I'll need to take a closer look to try and eliminate the rub

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teetshorn View Post
    A few updates to the unit, new seat post, stem and carbon flat bars. New tires and a set of lunar cogs that are awesome! This thing is a climbing beast!
    That's a sharp looking Unit. And I agree this bike loves to climb. I'm new to mtn biking and I can't get over the climbs this thing will go up with just one gear. It's a fun bike to ride

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondc84 View Post
    The stock breaks may suck but I'm stuck with them for the time being. I'll need to take a closer look to try and eliminate the rub
    I've had half a dozen sets of different hydro disc brake systems, and I reckon the BB7's are pretty good, for what they are, they work fine.

    Have you tried adjusting them? If your disc is warped, use a shifter to bend it back into the shape, it's quite easy to do.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondc84 View Post
    The stock breaks may suck but I'm stuck with them for the time being. I'll need to take a closer look to try and eliminate the rub
    The bb7's don't "suck" if they are set up correctly. This resource helped me set my bb7's up nicely. At the very minimum you can check your pad spacing.

    Avid BB7 mini resource - How to set up the Avid BB7
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnavy05 View Post
    The bb7's don't "suck" if they are set up correctly. This resource helped me set my bb7's up nicely. At the very minimum you can check your pad spacing.

    Avid BB7 mini resource - How to set up the Avid BB7
    Thanks so much, this certainly should help out a lot. Now I just need for it to stop raining so I can get out and ride again

  23. #423
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    After 1 year and +2000 miles still love my 2013 Unit.

    Now the left crankarm is loosening, even with loctite on it. Does someone has a good solution for this? (dump the FSA?)

  24. #424
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    My crank arm loosened and I put loctite on it. Been holding ever since. I covered more than 1-2 threads though.

  25. #425
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    anyone have a reasonable solution to a 100mm shock fork and or converting to a 1x9 or 1x10?

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    anyone have a reasonable solution to a 100mm shock fork and or converting to a 1x9 or 1x10?
    you should scroll only a few to post #413.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    anyone have a reasonable solution to a 100mm shock fork and or converting to a 1x9 or 1x10?
    Yes, mine is built up 1x10 with a 100mm fork. But I started with a frame and used mostly existing parts. Are you looking for an inexpensive route to get there? 'reasonable solution' is subjective, especially here on MTBR. LOL. For 1x10, I'm not sure what kind of rear hub comes stock, but assuming it's a regular 9/10 speed hub, you would need a rear derailleur (something like a Zee shadow plus FR can be found fairly cheap), rear shifter (Zee would work here too), rear cassette (SLX?), chain, and the Kona dropouts that have a derailleur hanger. I'd also recommend a narrow-wide chain ring (I have Race-Face). I haven't dropped a chain yet with this setup. So I think that's probably ~$270-$300 for the 1 x 10 conversion? It rides great like this too. For a fork, I happened to have a Fox F100 29 to put on, but you can find a cheaper fork like a Manitou Tower Pro. Price Point might still have them for $250.

    Hope that helps. I'm really digging my Unit set up like this right now. Good luck!

  28. #428
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    Fanatik Bikes - Troy Lee Designs Air Glove on X-mas special today for $20. The best part? They come in bright orange. Nothing's hipper than color coordinating with your Unit. You know you want to.

    Troy Lee Designs Air Glove - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa

  29. #429
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    A bit of a Hail Mary here, but do any of you wheel upgraders have an extra i23 rim or front wheel (with the orange graphics for the 2013)? Looking to build a geared rear wheel with the same rim as the stock offering on the 2013. PM me if you have one you'd like to get rid of, s.v.p.

  30. #430
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    Hey guys, I have some photos of my unit, T18, I hope you like it!



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  31. #431
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    [QUOTE=BlueViajero;10885375]Hey guys, I have some photos of my unit, T18, I hope you like it!

    Easy.....We hardly know each other. Ahhhh, that is a nice Unit though.
    18" rigid Unit

  32. #432
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  33. #433
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    What a way to trash your bike...
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  34. #434
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    jajajajajaja, preguntale a CoastKid cuanto le duran las suyas, tal vez tu no sepas limpiar tu bicicleta despues de usarla... no es tan dificil si tu edad mental es superior a 12 o 14 años. Te dejo otra foto que veo que te gustan:



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    Saludos.

  35. #435
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    Salt water is like acid. You didn't just spray the bike with it, you've partially submerged the poor thing, dipped it in acid. The bearings will be ruined, as would the brake lines. Give it a week or two and you'll see evidence of corrosion, not very smart.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  36. #436
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    Good wash and a good lube session - no harm done. I just think the pics are a little kinky. There is clearly a sexual cycle fetish thing going on here.

  37. #437
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    Looking for a bit of setup advice here. So on a long I'm getting pins and needles in my hands from too much weight on them, I've flipped the stem, but I'm thinking that the cockpit is a little too cramped for me. I originally wanted a 20" but 19" was all that was available so I'm running an almost maxed standard seatpost at this frame size. Off road this hasn't been so much of an issue because I move around so much, but I'm now using the bike for longer rides which involve a long sealed road commute before hitting the dirt and this is when I notice the problem.

    So.. would you guys next look at a setback seatpost or a longer stem? I know a larger frame is the real answer but it's just not an option where I am, the bike was hard enough to come by.

    Thoughts?

  38. #438
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    Sounds like a big drop in height from saddle to grips. An additional idea would be raising the front a bit with either a riser bar or moving headset spacers from above to below the stem (if that's an option). This plus the little added length (with either of your ideas) should help. How long is your current stem? I tend to like a steeper seat angle, so wouldn't want too much of a set back seatpost.

  39. #439
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    Thanks for your input.

    I've just ordered a Thompson Elite Setback post which has just 16mm offset so I'll try this as the first step and then I think your idea of riser bars will be next if things don't improve much. The bike was bought complete stock. It's actually at a friends house at the moment so I can't measure the stem, but I know it had like +- 8 deg stem on it and I flipped it to be +8 and it was certainly more comfortable but I didn't like it as much when climbing, it felt totally different. I suppose that's why I'm hesitant to raise the front further.

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by kohlboto View Post
    A bit of a Hail Mary here, but do any of you wheel upgraders have an extra i23 rim or front wheel (with the orange graphics for the 2013)? Looking to build a geared rear wheel with the same rim as the stock offering on the 2013. PM me if you have one you'd like to get rid of, s.v.p.
    PM sent.

  41. #441
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad? Secondly, read that the Unit is suspension corrected to run a 100mm fork, any issues/effects running a 120 on the frame? Lastly, is there a big difference between 80mm and 120mm? Of note I ride mainly singletrack, varying between intermediate and advanced level (xc/trail style). I have a FS 120mm 26' which I never really bottom out or feel I need more suspension - therefore do I really need 120 fork?

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart_74 View Post
    Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad? Secondly, read that the Unit is suspension corrected to run a 100mm fork, any issues/effects running a 120 on the frame? Lastly, is there a big difference between 80mm and 120mm? Of note I ride mainly singletrack, varying between intermediate and advanced level (xc/trail style). I have a FS 120mm 26' which I never really bottom out or feel I need more suspension - therefore do I really need 120 fork?
    Hmm, by your post and what you're saying, I'd lean slightly to the 80 between the 2. If you can find a 100mm fork, that would be my recommendation. I love my 2013 Unit with a 100mm fork. I actually have a Tower Pro 120 on my Raijin and it fits well on that frame, but I threw it on the Unit just to try and ended up putting the 100 back on. It wasn't bad, but the Unit feels more balanced at 100 IMO. I believe the Unit frame is slacker than the Raijin (given the same fork), so the Unit might be good with 80.

    I think there are a few others who have/had the Unit setup with a 120, so hopefully they'll chime in also.

  43. #443
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    Pass on the suspension fork and put 2.4 Ardents frt/rear and run lower pressure. Ergon grips help everyone also. As for the gears...get a second bike. You can never have too many Airborne Goblin will give you a great gear'd frt suspension bike for close to the same cost as a nice fork.

  44. #444
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    I just cant get into the geometry of this bike. 18" felt too small, 19" too big. so its on ebay 2013 Kona Unit 29er w Whisky Carbon Fork Large 19" Single Speed or Geared | eBay

  45. #445
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    Selling a used Unit for $500 more than MSRP?....
    Should be posted in best of Craig'slist WTF... :-$ :-)

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegoldrun View Post
    I just cant get into the geometry of this bike. 18" felt too small, 19" too big. so its on ebay 2013 Kona Unit 29er w Whisky Carbon Fork Large 19" Single Speed or Geared | eBay
    Pay the $2 and post a classified ad, ya cheapskate! Fixed that hyperlink for you.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Selling a used Unit for $500 more than MSRP?....
    Should be posted in best of Craig'slist WTF... :-$ :-)
    Well the build was over $2k, the fork alone cost more than the frame. But I understand your point.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Pay the $2 and post a classified ad, ya cheapskate! Fixed that hyperlink for you.
    I tried but kept getting a server error!! So I gave up and just posted the eBay link. Sorry

  49. #449
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    Sorry you didn't like the geo on the Unit. However how was the ride of that Whiskey fork? I have considered going to it from the steel fork but haven't. I went for the 2.4 Ardents and low pressure. What fatness of tire are you running in that fork? Would the 2.4's fit?

  50. #450
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    The Whisky fork is awesome. It makes the front super light and nimble. Id keep it for another project if I had another fork to sell with this bike. Right now the bike has 2.2s but Whisky says it will run a 2.4.

  51. #451
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    Hey thanks for that info. I've been checking out the weight difference and I'm thinking you are right on. I've never ridden a carbon fork so I have no idea what I'm missing.

  52. #452
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    Quick update on my Unit. I've recently gotten rid of all of my bikes other than the unit. So, for versatility, I swapped the niner carbon fork for a fox 100mm float FIT CTD. And, I have added an x9 type 2 10 speed derailler, a x9 shifter a sram cassette (1070 - 11-36) and a race face narrow wide 30T ring.

    This isn't because I didn't love SS or rigid, but since I'm down to one bike I need a bike that I can enjoy on all of the trails that I ride.

    With the added parts the weight comes in at 25# 3oz. Not light by any means, but this is also with pedals, cages, and 2 scoops of stans in each tire.

    2013 Kona Unit-12241930555_08827caf15_c.jpg
    2013 Kona Unit-12241948625_cb13a0126e_c.jpg
    2013 Kona Unit-12242124613_aac9fa5fba_c.jpg
    2013 Kona Unit-12241935105_ab4d3ef1e3_c.jpg
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  53. #453
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    ^Good stuff, TN05!

  54. #454
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by Bart_74 View Post
    Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad? Secondly, read that the Unit is suspension corrected to run a 100mm fork, any issues/effects running a 120 on the frame? Lastly, is there a big difference between 80mm and 120mm? Of note I ride mainly singletrack, varying between intermediate and advanced level (xc/trail style). I have a FS 120mm 26' which I never really bottom out or feel I need more suspension - therefore do I really need 120 fork?
    Thanks for your feedback; still considering a fork and come across a 100mm one, although this tapered - just want to to come I could use a tapered steerer? (obviously headset would need changing)

  55. #455
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    Yes, 2013 Unit is designed to run a tapered steerer, which is why it looks a little funny with the stock steel fork. If you're buying a new suspension fork, Id recommend it vs. the straight one.

  56. #456
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    Nice set-up. I have a stumpjumper evo which is a similar idea. I still use the unit on most trails by switching between a 19t and a 15t out back (both allow the sliders to be pretty much all the way forward). Have two sep chains as well.

    Why did you get the thomson set-back out of interest? I have had too much weight over the front on a couple of occasions and wondered if a set-back was the way forward?

  57. #457
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    I weigh about 275 pounds, and I've bent saddle rails in the past, so one way that I fight this is to get a setback post, and slide my saddle all the way forward. Since doing this I haven't bent any saddle rails.

    When the bike was set up SS I did notice the front end being kinda heavy, but only when the sliders were towards the rear of the dropouts. When the sliders were in the middle or forward it seemed fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    Nice set-up. I have a stumpjumper evo which is a similar idea. I still use the unit on most trails by switching between a 19t and a 15t out back (both allow the sliders to be pretty much all the way forward). Have two sep chains as well.

    Why did you get the thomson set-back out of interest? I have had too much weight over the front on a couple of occasions and wondered if a set-back was the way forward?
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by spatterer View Post
    After 1 year and +2000 miles still love my 2013 Unit.

    Now the left crankarm is loosening, even with loctite on it. Does someone has a good solution for this? (dump the FSA?)
    I've got over 5,000 miles on my 2011 UNIT. Keep on keeping on!
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  59. #459
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    Mine loosened a few times from new... Replaced. Slx has been on about 4 bikes now.

  60. #460
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    Has anyone lost the sliding dropout forward facing alignment screws?

  61. #461
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    I got a 2014 unit in my left crank arm twice this fall but I was able to fix it by putting some semi permanent loctite and using a torque wrench. as I remember I tightened it down to 41 nm.

  62. #462
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    Has anyone lost the sliding dropout forward facing alignment screws?
    Yes, quite quickly. Took the remaining one to the hardware store and bought SS ones with wing nuts for lock rings. Fixed.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Yes, quite quickly. Took the remaining one to the hardware store and bought SS ones with wing nuts for lock rings. Fixed.
    nice, I don't have a remaining one unfortunately; do you remember what they were? M3, M4?

  64. #464
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    I have a fully stock 2013 Unit and I am looking to get a front suspension fork and was wondering if this one will work on my bike? RockShox Recon Gold TK Solo Air - 29" - 1.5" 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Does anyone know if this will work with the stock wheels and steerer tube?

    Thanks for the help

  65. #465
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    No, the link appears to only come with a 20mm thru axle. Believe the stock front hub is a standard 9mm q/r.

  66. #466
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    Good thing i didn't buy that front fork then. Can anyone recommend a good 100 mm fork that will work with the stock set up on this bike that won't cost me an arm and a leg? Thanks

  67. #467
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    Rockshox forks usually have variations of the same fork. For instance the SIDD and REBA both come in straight or tapered steerers and 9mm qr and 15mm thru so you may look into their site.

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  69. #469
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    2013 Kona Unit

    2013 Kona Unit-imageuploadedbytapatalk1391802272.445456.jpg

  70. #470
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    ^^ Nice bike, and nice picture!
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  71. #471
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by The Gen View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hmmm it looks strange to me but somehow really intetesting. How wide are the handlebars?

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-V500 met Tapatalk

  72. #472
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    I have a fully stock 2013 Unit and I am looking to get a front suspension fork and was wondering if this one will work on my bike? RockShox Recon Gold TK Solo Air - 29" - 1.5" 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Hey, I have a 2014 Unit that I recently purchased a 100 mm Rockshox 30 Gold TK fork for. I got it at my LBS for ~$350. It rides great and has higher-end features like lockout, rebound adjust, and the solo air cartridge at a price that won't bust your wallet. The 1 1/8" steerer version with 9mm QR for 29ers weighs ~4.03 lbs. (confirmed with scale), so it's comparable in weight to Rebas and Floats. The 100 mm is a good match for the geometry, but it will slacken your head angle a degree or two over the stock rigid fork. I like it, though. I'll try to post some pictures of my finished build to this thread over the weekend.

  73. #473
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    I have a 100mm X-fusion Slide RL2 and I really like it. It slackens the HTA like previously said. I actually just put my P2 fork back on tonight and was surprised how much difference there was. For now going to keep it rigid. I really enjoy it. Although Salsa is going to be releasing their Cromoto Grande steel fork with 15mm TA by the end of March. So I might look into that. Not sure if I can justify dropping 550 on a Niner carbon fork. Although Competive cyclist is have a sale that takes $100 off it so it becomes $450 with the 15TA rdo version when you use code "loyal". We will see tax return should be here soon.

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cif View Post
    Hmmm it looks strange to me but somehow really intetesting. How wide are the handlebars?

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-V500 met Tapatalk
    Outside-outside: 44 cm
    Reach: 75 mm
    Drop: 130 mm

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by m0ngy View Post
    I love my raw steel Unit, looks tough as. Had mine for about a month now (my first 29er) and it's quickly become my 'go to' bike. It's unfortunate I've spent many thousands on suspension and complicated frames when all I've ever really wanted was a full ridged 29er. People talk about 'point and shoot' in relation to really stiff suspension forks, but you haven't experienced true accuracy until you've gone full rigid. Climbs like a mofo too; haven't leapt out of my seat and attacked climbs like this since I was in my early 20's. With so much technology out there, I think people forget the raw thrill of the primitive, unadulterated XC experience. Haven't had this much fun or been so enthusiastic about riding for a very long time.
    +1, went from an s-works stumpjumper fsr to aways riding this! I have a white 2011, added an XO downhill carbon crank and crossmax st wheels and got it even stiffer!

  76. #476
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    I know it's a 2013 thread, but come on guys, show some blue 2014 goods. We know they're out there.

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    I know it's a 2013 thread, but come on guys, show some blue 2014 goods. We know they're out there.
    Here's my blue 2014:



    Bike is stock except for these aftermarket upgrades:
    - 2014 Rockshox 30 Gold TK 100 mm fork (Solo Air, Lockout, Rebound)
    - 410 mm Thomson Elite Post
    - Shimano Deore Hydraulic Brakes
    - Shimano M520 Pedals
    - Surly 21t Steel Cog
    - SRAM PG951 Chain
    - Conti Mountain King Tubeless 2.4" F and 2.2" R

    With a 19" frame and this build it sits right at 28 lbs.

  78. #478
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    2013 Kona Unit

    21t! Out of interest where does that make the rear end sit on the stays, near the back or the front? I like 19t because its far forward and I think I read a 20t sets the wheel back???? Could do with more than 19t for winter / all day epic


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  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    21t! Out of interest where does that make the rear end sit on the stays, near the back or the front? I like 19t because its far forward and I think I read a 20t sets the wheel back???? Could do with more than 19t for winter / all day epic


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    For each tooth added to the rear, the axle will move forward approximately 3mm. This only applies if there is sufficient adjustment available in the sliders. Tyre clearance shouldn't be an issue.

    If you run out of forward adjustment, add a half link and this will give you an extra 1/4" (~6.25mm) of room.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    21t! Out of interest where does that make the rear end sit on the stays, near the back or the front? I like 19t because its far forward and I think I read a 20t sets the wheel back???? Could do with more than 19t for winter / all day epic


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    Mine sits about dead-center. Once you go larger than 19, you start a whole two chain links back and work forward again. I honestly don't mind a slightly longer wheelbase for stability though. I've had no issues with technical maneuverability.

    If you want to keep your drivetrain smaller, Raceface makes a 30t front ring that would allow you to play with smaller rear rings:
    Race Face

  81. #481
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Thx. Smaller front is way fwd i suppose, had not thought..,


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  82. #482
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    2013 Kona Unit


    What's the plural of unit ?


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  83. #483
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    2013 Kona Unit



    Pano-unit


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  84. #484
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    You should take that pano photo from much closer
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  85. #485
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    I'll post a pic tomorrow but I just picked up before winter a 2011 unit (i think it's an '11... its white?) Anyway, it was one I saw on local craigslist... REALLY clean and paid 400$ for it. I'm 5'8"ish with a 30" inseam.. 215, stocky build, the bike is a 16" and it actually seems to maneuver really well. I may seem a "wee" big for it? but i'm still thinking about what to adjust to avoid back probs

  86. #486
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    2013 Kona Unit

    I am 5'8" and doubted between 16" and 18" as I am usually a 17"... If it feels short you can a) lengthen the front -go with a bar with less backsweep, 12 degrees is a lot.... My 18" comes with a 90mm stem, not sure if 16" comes with something maybe shorter??? And then b) there is the set-back post from thomson or just push seat back. Finally c) is to watch out for and get a reduced frame and swap out frame for an 18" and sell the 16" frame on if you really wanted but if it rides well so what!


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  87. #487
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    My new ride

    Before Christmas I rode my friends Scandium One 9 and fell in love with the pureness of riding a rigid singlespeed. So I spend the Christmas break looking on the internet for parts for my own build. She got finished today and here she is: 2013 Kona Unit-2014-02-15-16.55.49.jpg2013 Kona Unit-2014-02-15-16.55.14.jpg

    The only thing I am waiting for is the orange Endless Kickass cog. It should be here on Tuesday but my LBS gave me a temp so that I could ride her this weekend.

    Can't wait to take her out tomorrow.

  88. #488
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    What's to your chainline with the X9 cranks?

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkldouglas View Post
    Can't wait to take her out tomorrow.

    Sharp looking
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  90. #490
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    Just picked up one of the last remaining 2013's from my LBS. I prefer the raw look over the blue tint of the 2014. Lucky I was able to find one. Upgraded the grips to orange Oury, the pedals to CB 5050, Jagwire Mountain Pro cables and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers. This week she gets a Ritchey carbon fork and Ritchey WCS stem. Last upgrade will be A set of Stans Arch EX wheels. Then I'm finished....


  91. #491
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by Saltflyer View Post
    Just picked up one of the last remaining 2013's from my LBS. I prefer the raw look over the blue tint of the 2014. Lucky I was able to find one. Upgraded the grips to orange Oury, the pedals to CB 5050, Jagwire Mountain Pro cables and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers. This week she gets a Ritchey carbon fork and Ritchey WCS stem. Last upgrade will be A set of Stans Arch EX wheels. Then I'm finished....

    should be a great bike after the upgrades you are planning. You could also consider a ritchey carbon bar. Carbon bar is working great for me on my unit

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  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    What's to your chainline with the X9 cranks?
    I am running the X9 with a 30t MRP Bling Ring and the chainline is right at 2".

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cif View Post
    should be a great bike after the upgrades you are planning. You could also consider a ritchey carbon bar. Carbon bar is working great for me on my unit

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
    Definitely considering a carbon bar but not sure which one to get. I trying to determine if I like the geometry of the stock bar. I definitely like the width but I am used to a bar with a low rise and a bit of a sweep. The Ritchey WCS is sweet and had perfect rise/sweep but it's only 665 mm wide. Not sure if I want to sacrifice almost 2 inches of width.

  94. #494
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    I havea Thomson carbon flat bar. They are 29" wide and have 6 deg bend. So far I'm liking them.

  95. #495
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    Very happy for several seasons with an Easton Haven 711mm (28") bar, 20mm rise, 9 degree sweep.

    Easton Haven Carbon Handlebar 711mm
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  96. #496
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    I prefer the look of the 2013 since the color and graphics matches my 1994 Kona Kilauea, but this 2011 popped up on CL for $400 so I couldn't pass it up. The white and black is OK but a little plain for me. I added some vinyl pinstriping to give it more of a classic look and add a little color. And it's also faster now. I was the only one out in the snow last weekend that I saw.

  97. #497
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    Love the pin stripes always_last. I feel like if the bike looks like it would have come form the factory that way once you have done some asthetic mods, then it was done right. It looks like it would have come from the factory with the stripes.

    Good job!

  98. #498
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    Does anyone have a whiskey no. 7 fork on their Unit? And how do you like it?

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    Very happy for several seasons with an Easton Haven 711mm (28") bar, 20mm rise, 9 degree sweep.

    Easton Haven Carbon Handlebar 711mm
    Perfect bar! That's exactly what I am looking for. Are you running it on the 90mm stem? How do you like the handling?

    Thanks..JJ

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkldouglas View Post
    Love the pin stripes always_last. I feel like if the bike looks like it would have come form the factory that way once you have done some asthetic mods, then it was done right. It looks like it would have come from the factory with the stripes.

    Good job!
    Thanks! That's about the best compliment you could give. It's amazing how that small detail changed the look of the bike for me. I seriously thought about getting the frame painted until I tried the stripes on a whim. It's hard to see but they are orange and black bands, and then I added orange bolt-on skewers and top cap. That's all the color I needed to make me happy though it is tough to restrain myself from adding more.

  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post

    What's the plural of unit ?

    nice pair! i prefer the older, black&white one. it's much closer to my world. maybe it deserves a salsa cro-moto fork, which should be obligatory on steel konas!

  102. #502
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Thanks. Mine is the white one the other is a friends. If i swapped it would be for the 2014 and reynolds 520 to see if there was a difference, but the only real reason I could see for the newer head tube would be to put a new fork. If i went carbon i would go all carbon, if I went suspension I would then get gears, which for me us what ali or carbon hardtails are for. Had a look at the salsa fork; looks almost identical to the kona p2 except for dropouts?

    Btw i think the headtube angle has changed since 2013??? Anyone?? 2011 seems more relaxed...


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  103. #503
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    Just picked this one up today, a "straggler", new but '13 model, only rode it a few hours, but man.... FUN.

  104. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    Btw i think the headtube angle has changed since 2013??? Anyone?? 2011 seems more relaxed...


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    2014 is 70 degrees for all sizes. 2014 only has 4 sizes though(15,17,19,21). I'm thinking that may be due to the better (more expensiver) Reynolds tubing.

    Here is 2012&13
    2012

    2013



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  105. #505
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    So glad I went ahead on the '13. I was considering a 14 for the upgrade tubes, but the 16 really fits me perfect, and I don't mind the slacker h/t angle.

  106. #506
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    Hi All -

    Just installed my Ritchey WCS carbon fork and WCS stem... Weight is down to 24.5 pounds. Wheels next...either Stans Arch EX or American Classic Mtn or possibly the Wide Lightning...would be perfect with a nice wide tire.

    The fork really fits the headtube perfect...like it was made for it.







  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamey View Post
    So glad I went ahead on the '13. I was considering a 14 for the upgrade tubes, but the 16 really fits me perfect, and I don't mind the slacker h/t angle.
    +1 i have the 2011 with very slack h/t and love it


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  108. #508
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Nice saltflyer. Think the stock wheels on the newer ones are way lighter no? Mine in the '11 felt like tank tracks!


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  109. #509
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    I've just upgraded my 2010 Unit to a 2013. Frame was noticeably lighter, but I did size down from a 19 to an 18. Feels a touch more compliant too, but maybe that's the new bike placebo effect.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-2014-02-19-11.12.59.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-2013-10-22-11.55.54.jpg  


  110. #510
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    2013 Kona Unit

    For me 2010 frame is potentially the nicest Unit ever made... I would never change it....

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by guitarhero View Post
    I've just upgraded my 2010 Unit to a 2013. Frame was noticeably lighter, but I did size down from a 19 to an 18. Feels a touch more compliant too, but maybe that's the new bike placebo effect.
    How is it, compared to your other rigid singlespeed?

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    How is it, compared to your other rigid singlespeed?
    Only had the new Unit a week, so the jury is out, but I had a chance to ride them back to back yesterday, and the Genesis takes it so far. The rigid specific geometry is just so dialled on that bike, and combined with the lighter front end (the P2 fork weighs a ton). The front end feels so good.
    It's not exactly apples with apples yet though, as the Genesis has considerably fatter tubeless rubber. I'll try the Kona with the other wheels on the trails sometime soon, which will give a better comparison.

  113. #513
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    thoughts from owners on 2013 v 2014 geo - although i'm after a 19" so probably not that much of an issue...

    has anyone noticed that the reach on the 2013 18" is actually LONGER than the 19"... WTF? that makes no sense to me??? Anyone got thoughts on this?
    You'll have to speak up, I'm wearing a towel!!!

  114. #514
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    ok, so I'm still new to the world of mountain biking and i didn't realize there are so many different axle sizes and different steerer tube dimensions. I have a 2013 Unit and I'm looking to get a front suspension fork but want to make sure all the specs will work for the unit. Can anyone tell me if this fork will work with the unit:

    Rockshox Sid XX 100 29 Remote Fork 2013 > Components > Forks | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

  115. #515
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    Yes. 9mm q/r with tapered steer tube.

    (tapa)

  116. #516
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Yeah that'll work. You just need to buy a different lower headset for a tapered fork. Or you could just buy an entire new headset. Cane creek has a great headset finder on their website.


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  117. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Yes. 9mm q/r with tapered steer tube.

    (tapa)
    This isn't quite right. The stock bike supports a straight steerer (1 1/8) and 9mm quick release.

    As the last poster noted, you can run a fork with a tapered steerer, but you'll need to get a new bottom headset cup. Also, it'll slacken the front end by 1/2 degree.

  118. #518
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    Spillway, the linky was to a tapered fork with a 9 mm q/r. Will it fit? - yes.
    Thankfully the next guy explained the need to replace the OEM headset. So, what's your point?
    If it wasn't to educate all that 44mm headtubes support both straight & tapered steer tubes then
    Get off my lawn!

  119. #519
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    alright, thanks for the help guys

  120. #520
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Touchy ego? Thanks for beating me up for clarifying for the newbie.

  121. #521
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    There are a ton of options. I figured if I wanted to get a fork I'd just go out and pick one out. I didn't realize there was half a dozen options I needed to select to make sure it was compatible. And looking at headsets is even more confusing, even with the cane creek website.

  122. #522
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    Really? You consider being told to get off my lawn a beating? Time to suck it up Buttercup! 😁

    (tapa)

  123. #523
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Jon, what you need is below. Full discussion at post #204 in this thread.

    [QUOTE=Spillway;10410268]If you want to run a tapered fork on the 2013 Unit, here's what you need:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Cane Creek 40.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly
    Cane Creek 110.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly

    I hear Chris King makes a similar bottom cup that allows you to run a tapered fork on a zero stack 1 1/8 headtube, but I couldn't figure out which model. Inset 7 maybe?

    If you want to be 100% sure, call Cane Creek or King.


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  124. #524
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    [QUOTE=Spillway;11034322]Jon, what you need is below. Full discussion at post #204 in this thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    If you want to run a tapered fork on the 2013 Unit, here's what you need:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Cane Creek 40.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly
    Cane Creek 110.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly

    I hear Chris King makes a similar bottom cup that allows you to run a tapered fork on a zero stack 1 1/8 headtube, but I couldn't figure out which model. Inset 7 maybe?

    If you want to be 100% sure, call Cane Creek or King.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    Thanks for the help. this info is great! now time to pull the trigger on a headset and suspension fork.

  125. #525
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    Enjoyed a nice ride on the Unit on some fire roads in North Georgia. 25 miles with 3,400 feet of elevation gain
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-kona-unit-cooper-gap.jpg  


  126. #526
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    my KONAs first upgrade

    2013 Kona Unit-20140303_145134.jpg
    Just built this up as a result of many interesting posts. I like the idea of White Industries freewheel engagement as I ride a rocky area. But not in a spot to built up a king or DT . I'll report on how this setup works out.

    Surly new ultra hub (poormans paul)
    WI trials 20t
    WTB KOM rim
    wheelsmith 2.0 spokes straight with 12mm brass nips
    ghetto tubeless and a 2.4 Ardent.

  127. #527
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    You'll love the Eno freewheel. Especially the trials version. I have an Eno freewheel and Paul hubs. Love them so smooth.

  128. #528
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    yeah, eno trials and pauls for me it's been really nice. A little hard to get that tiny bit of play out of the hub but they are light and solid. The freewheel has been flawless. I like the sound too.

  129. #529
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    Paul recommends that slight play. But it should be a very little amount.

  130. #530
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    Paul recommends that slight play. But it should be a very little amount.
    yes I talked to them they said it sounds like I have it adjusted correctly. I'd rather it be like that than rough or slow...the only thing it does is make my brakes squeal but only at low speed so not a problem. The play is small, and isn't noticeable on the bike, unlike a Hope pro2 front hub I had that needed surgery.

  131. #531
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    I rode that upgrade last night for 10 miles in the dark under headlight/barlight. Wow I am really happy with the way the WI trials freewheel rides on my UNIT. Climbing in the rocks has gotten easier and quick back pedals to clear rocks that are close to trees are now flawless and you don't loose all of your speed doing it. I thinking of some s-works ground controls at 650 gr. should drop a pound + from the stock wheels with this rim and tire combo. Ardents are great but 800 gr. is pudgy. I'll eventually go with whisky carbon fork and answer 720 20/20 bars. anyone have something like that to post? It'll take me a while so for now I could enjoy yours

  132. #532
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    Well I just got done installing a Truvativ AKA crankset with MRP bling ring and Chris King Bottom bracket. I have to say that it is OMFG smoother than the stock BB. Can't wait to hit the trail now.





    Last edited by worrptangl; 03-16-2014 at 02:02 PM.

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondc84 View Post
    ok, so I'm still new to the world of mountain biking and i didn't realize there are so many different axle sizes and different steerer tube dimensions. I have a 2013 Unit and I'm looking to get a front suspension fork but want to make sure all the specs will work for the unit. Can anyone tell me if this fork will work with the unit:
    If you are still unsure about which headset to use, this is something that is probably dealt with by your LBS. It will be worth the bit of extra money knowing you got the right thing. Also, with BBs and Headsets, I personally don't want to be responsible for messing up the frame if I F up the install. Just know this, with the oversized headtube you can run basically any for steer tube.

  134. #534
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    Unit Re-build

    I used to own this bike, and ran it as a SS with a squishy front fork. Then I sold it as it was my "other" bike and I could only maintain one dedicated MTB after having kids and buying a little house. After a year away I kinda missed it, so I decided to buy it back (for less than I sold it for and only two rides of use) and I have now converted it to a 1x10 and transferred all my fanciest bits over two it. I can't wait to get this thing on dirt! It is very far from stock at this point so maybe not even appropriate for this forum. Nonetheless, here it is:

    2013 Kona Unit-20140317_090255.jpg

  135. #535
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    Wheel upgrade follow up with crank and BB ?'s

    Quote Originally Posted by DPeper View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just built this up as a result of many interesting posts. I like the idea of White Industries freewheel engagement as I ride a rocky area. But not in a spot to built up a king or DT . I'll report on how this setup works out.

    Surly new ultra hub (poormans paul)
    WI trials 20t
    WTB KOM rim
    wheelsmith 2.0 spokes straight with 12mm brass nips
    ghetto tubeless and a 2.4 Ardent.
    Wow the wheel upgrade is definitely a big hit! The WI trials freewheel is a tremendous piece of engineering. I am not liking the FSA Comet cranks. Is anyone having a preference on BB and cranks? I'm thinking Hope or King BB and cheap cranks. By cheap I'm thinking $100 raceface or anything other than comets. The left side dropped of twice and now they have a little play I thought it was the BB.

  136. #536
    Got a suspension fork
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    Funny how different people get on different with some items. I've got about 6,000 miles on my Comets now. The NDS arm fell off one time and one time only early on, put it back on and never a problem since.

    I ride in a really rocky area and my crank arms are beat to heck, so I just run them knowing something nicer would get destroyed.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  137. #537
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    2013 Kona Unit

    I just know I hate the factory BB. Replaced it and within 3 rides it was noisy and creaky again. No amount of TLC helps it. I think a nice BB and the comets should be fine.


    Sent from my hammock
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul.C View Post
    I just know I hate the factory BB. Replaced it and within 3 rides it was noisy and creaky again. No amount of TLC helps it. I think a nice BB and the comets should be fine.


    Sent from my hammock
    What sort of BB did you replace with? I have heard there can be some that can fit a little tight with the comet. I am in the same boat with mostly indifference towards the comet but the bottom bracket's gotta go.

    Also, putting a new bar on to try to cut back on some chatter, looking at thomson TI flat vs thomson carbon. Any thoughts?

  139. #539
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    I love the the Eno freewheel and so far working great with my AKA spider less crankset.

  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    Funny how different people get on different with some items. I've got about 6,000 miles on my Comets now. The NDS arm fell off one time and one time only early on, put it back on and never a problem since.

    I ride in a really rocky area and my crank arms are beat to heck, so I just run them knowing something nicer would get destroyed.
    SLX is as hard as nails and way nicer, but the Comet is OK, i just could not stop it / the BB creaking...

  141. #541
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    I agree about the SLX cranks. I'm actually selling mine that I had on my unit.

  142. #542
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    I spent most of last season bashing away on some Raceface Atlas cranks. They're pretty burly, but the rigidity feels great, and as a 200+ pound dude I don't bine a little burl for a little extra weight.

  143. #543
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by spatchy View Post
    What sort of BB did you replace with? I have heard there can be some that can fit a little tight with the comet. I am in the same boat with mostly indifference towards the comet but the bottom bracket's gotta go.

    Also, putting a new bar on to try to cut back on some chatter, looking at thomson TI flat vs thomson carbon. Any thoughts?
    The same one that came with the bike. Not sure of the model.


    Sent from my hammock
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  144. #544
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    What are you guys doing for rust prevention/touch ups? My is getting pretty beat up and wet weather riding is definitely on the menu where I'm at.

  145. #545
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    Its a good point!

    I have put the white finish line grease (seems to reduce/romove rust) on the external rust, and squirted WD40 in the frame holes, finally a muckynutz fender on front stops crud going up into the fork steerer tube...

  146. #546
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    It's a SS- mud and rust are acceptable.

    Just painted my ride Easter Egg Blue. I saw it on the new santa cruz Nomad with pink accents. 2013 Kona Unit-20140403_154652.jpg

  147. #547
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    This is my newly built '14 unit.
    Complete bike stripped to bare frame then rebuilt as I wanted.
    Hope BB
    Hope pick and mix head set
    Hope seat post clamp
    Hope Headset spacers
    SLX m675 crankset
    XT brakes
    Alligator discs 180/160mmm
    KCNC TI Pro Scandium seatpost
    Halo Hex key skewers
    Thomson x4 70mm stem
    Thomson carbon flatbar
    On one carbon 1piece fork
    velosolo 32t chainring
    velosolo 20t rear sprocket
    KMC z510 chain

    *standard wheels and tyres for now hope evo2 on crests on order

    Awaiting delivery:
    specialized phenom gel saddle
    Eggbeater3 pedals










  148. #548
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    Oh man, take back all the other fancy bits and change those rims! (sweet build, still). I really want these for my Unit: WTB KOM i23 WTB KOM Rim | WTB

  149. #549
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    I know man they are SH 1T. Got my new front wheel just waiting on a rear hub thats on back order to finish the build. Those KOM i23's look amazing.

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by msportmike View Post
    This is my newly built '14 unit.
    Your bike makes me like my '13 Unit even more.

    Those SLX cranks look good, which model do you buy in order to convert to SS?
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  151. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by m0ngy View Post

    Those SLX cranks look good, which model do you buy in order to convert to SS?
    M675 10speed with a tiny washer on each crank spider arm to stop the outer plate of the chain touching with a 32T chainring (1/8th chain)

  152. #552
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    V. Nice. Slx is one of best cranks you can get and the bb just runs and runs... I am
    Running a 2007 and a 2009 vintage on 2nd and 3rd bb... You have made me decide to pull trigger on thomson bar, which stem is it 0' or 6' rise?
    Btw, seriously gaffer tape chainstay protector? Do tell: What chainslap are you expecting on singlespeed???

  153. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    You have made me decide to pull trigger on thomson bar, which stem is it 0' or 6' rise?
    Btw, seriously gaffer tape chainstay protector? Do tell: What chainslap are you expecting on singlespeed???
    Stems a 0' rise 70mm.
    The tapes a result of my CDO....that's like OCD but I have to put the letters in the right order...I'm that bad

  154. #554
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    Quote Originally Posted by msportmike View Post
    The tapes a result of my CDO....that's like OCD but I have to put the letters in the right order...I'm that bad
    No, it's not. But you just read it somewhere and like the sound of it.

  155. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    No, it's not. But you just read it somewhere and like the sound of it.
    I read it on my mental health assessment

  156. #556
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    2013 Kona Unit-20140130_180148%5B1%5D.jpg

    I love my Kona. My favorite mtb I've ever owned.

  157. #557
    All my faucets is Moen.
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    I'm assuming you painted the fork or is ther a version with an orange fork? I have the same rig and love that fork. I'm so surprised how well it handles the rough stuff.

    Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedumbopinion View Post
    I'm assuming you painted the fork or is ther a version with an orange fork? I have the same rig and love that fork. I'm so surprised how well it handles the rough stuff.

    Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
    I bought the frame used and it came with a orange salsa fork. It looks good on the bike and handles awesome.

  159. #559
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    All done - rides like a dream


    2013 Kona Unit-mike-windows-phone_20140509_042.jpg2013 Kona Unit-mike-windows-phone_20140509_037.jpg2013 Kona Unit-mike-windows-phone_20140509_035.jpg2013 Kona Unit-mike-windows-phone_20140509_030.jpg2013 Kona Unit-mike-windows-phone_20140509_023.jpg

  160. #560
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    Still the best bike I have ever owned!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg  


  161. #561
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    wow that is a great looking setup

  162. #562
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    really think these are cool.
    can anyone comment on the ride of these V something a little "nicer" like a Niner SIR?

    is it just a couple of hundred grams, or are we talking genuine ride quality.
    would LOVE custom... but don't think the dollars are there for that yet
    You'll have to speak up, I'm wearing a towel!!!

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by msportmike View Post
    All done - rides like a dream


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ooo yeah, and now, to really go CDO on the Unit, use some gaffer tape in a very meticulous way, like you did on the chainstay, and make some fork boots to protect the stanchions on your rigid fork.

  164. #564
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    Ooo yeah, and now, to really go CDO on the Unit, use some gaffer tape in a very meticulous way, like you did on the chainstay, and make some fork boots to protect the stanchions on your rigid fork.
    will do thanks….

  165. #565
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    got me one!

    2013 Kona Unit-20140604_191240.jpg
    hi all
    had to get me one too!
    done a few "easier" trails - this bike rocks!
    greetings from israel
    hazz

  166. #566
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    Cool. You might want to adjust your seat angle down a bit. Also, try a different set of bars, I didn't think the stock ones were very comfortable.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  167. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by m0ngy View Post
    Cool. You might want to adjust your seat angle down a bit. Also, try a different set of bars, I didn't think the stock ones were very comfortable.
    thanks m0ngy, advice is always welcome
    i'll try the seat angle and hardware changes will wait until i collect a few more kilometers

  168. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by msportmike View Post
    All done - rides like a dream


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    Nice! That's one good looking bike.
    18" rigid Unit

  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmf032 View Post
    Nice! That's one good looking bike.
    Indeed, sex on wheels.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  170. #570
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    indeed!
    18" rigid Unit

  171. #571
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    This build looks super clean. Actually saw one of these new blue ones up close, and the site doesn't really do the finish justices. Seeing the brazing through the blue is really cool. I've got a 2011, and I'd almost be wiling to upgrade to the new one, but that seems dumb.

  172. #572
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    Finally got to race my '14 unit - solo 24hr. bike was perfect..not so my performance after months off with an arm injury. Still loved it though

    2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg
    2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg

  173. #573
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    You're an animal dude, good sh!t.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  174. #574
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    Don't beat yourself about it. It's not easy to drag all that superfluous weight around your waist for the better part of your life, let alone for the 24 hours on a singlespeed.

  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    Don't beat yourself about it. It's not easy to drag all that superfluous weight around your waist for the better part of your life, let alone for the 24 hours on a singlespeed.
    Haha yep your right I.V.A. Everyday's a struggle for the fat lad at the back

  176. #576
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    Hi, what are you running for a stem. I love this set-up on your Unit!

  177. #577
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    Thomson x4 70mm stem

  178. #578
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Just pick it up this weekend . Took it out last night. Loving it!!!!

  179. #579
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    Anyone else destroy their spindle? It'd only been 10 months, ~1000 miles.

  180. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceboxsteve View Post
    Anyone else destroy their spindle? It'd only been 10 months, ~1000 miles.
    I did notice on greasing the bearings twice on the original wheels that one of the bearings had popped slightly out of its seating... which if left unattended could cause spindle failure? (think it was the same one on the drive side???) the second time I caked it in with white finish line grease which seems to have set the bearings

  181. #581
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    This is slightly off topic but I just bought an old unit 26" (07 I think) and I'm trying to give it a raw finish like the '13. Everything I've read said steel will rust under any type of clearcoat. Anyone have issues with the raw finish rusting under it's clearcoat?

    Is it a clear powdercoat? Or some kind of lacquer?

    Thanks for the help!
    Last edited by rusty904; 06-27-2014 at 09:48 AM.

  182. #582
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    I am looking for a size 22 Unit frameset from either 2011, 2012, or 2013. If you have one you are willing to part with, let me know! Thanks.

  183. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    This is slightly off topic but I just bought an old unit 26" (07 I think) and I'm trying to give it a raw finish like the '13. Everything I've read said steel will rust under any type of clearcoat. Anyone have issues with the raw finish rusting under it's clearcoat?

    Is it a clear powdercoat? Or some kind of lacquer?

    Thanks for the help!
    The clear coat is only on the 2014 afaik which is the first year this bike has shifted to reynolds 520 tubing... May have something to do with it???

    From my brief work with carbon fibre, I also learned there is clear coat (available over counter) and clear coat (available for industrial locations that involves mixing two toxic chemicals...) The latter was as hard as nails, the former not much better than a good wax polish...

  184. #584
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    2013 Kona Unit-image.jpgIf anyone has lost the sliding dropout adjuster screws (I did once, then kona sent me some others slightly different and lost drive side again.. ) I noticed the screws that held the spesh zee cage to its packaging are same thread and have a nice plastic nut that *may* hold longer than the metal one... Its only really long enough for those who chose gearing to keep the wheelbase as short at possible as well

  185. #585
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    Went back to bb7 brakes and loving them anybody upgraded the levers to speed dial 7???

  186. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    Went back to bb7 brakes and loving them anybody upgraded the levers to speed dial 7???
    I was going to 'upgrade my FR-5's but I like the lower profile of them over the SD7's. Plus, once I get my brakes properly adjusted I would rarely use the adjusters. The SD7's are really nice levers and such a great deal price wise so it wouldn't be an expensive experiment either way. I have my BB7's working flawlessly with the FR-5s so I decided to not do that impulse upgrade and instead will wear out my FR5s. Once they fail I'll probably purchase the SD7s though. Not ditching the BB7s any time soon that's for sure. Once properly setup they are great brakes. I am a big fan of them.

  187. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeAK View Post
    I was going to 'upgrade my FR-5's but I like the lower profile of them over the SD7's. Plus, once I get my brakes properly adjusted I would rarely use the adjusters. The SD7's are really nice levers and such a great deal price wise so it wouldn't be an expensive experiment either way. I have my BB7's working flawlessly with the FR-5s so I decided to not do that impulse upgrade and instead will wear out my FR5s. Once they fail I'll probably purchase the SD7s though. Not ditching the BB7s any time soon that's for sure. Once properly setup they are great brakes. I am a big fan of them.
    yup. 20+ year shop guy here and wouldn't run anything else. just replaced my hydros that came stock on my bike with new bb7 and fr-5's. brilliant. had the same setup for 10 years on an independent fabrication ti 29er. and my 13' unit. man does the unit handle 10x better than the ti indy did. holy smokes

    and it retails for 1/5th............

    rog

  188. #588
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    I'm new to using water bottles / cages.

    Are there any particular water bottle cages I should look at for the 2014 Unit? I've seen some older Units with two water bottle cages. Is it possible to mount 2 bottles on a 2014 Unit?

  189. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjx View Post
    I'm new to using water bottles / cages.

    Are there any particular water bottle cages I should look at for the 2014 Unit? I've seen some older Units with two water bottle cages. Is it possible to mount 2 bottles on a 2014 Unit?
    Unless you're a weight weenie than any cage will do. I use some $3 aluminum cage I purchased from a local shop. Definitely not the lightest out there but it holds my bottle just the same.

  190. #590
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    When I put them on my 2013 I hadn't used cages in years. The only thing I ran into is some cages hold the water bottles better on rough terrain than others. I'm using cages that wrap around the bottle so it must be pulled out from the side. This has worked well for me. Good luck.
    18" rigid Unit

  191. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmf032 View Post
    When I put them on my 2013 I hadn't used cages in years. The only thing I ran into is some cages hold the water bottles better on rough terrain than others. I'm using cages that wrap around the bottle so it must be pulled out from the side. This has worked well for me. Good luck.
    For me nothing holds better on rough terrian but is easier to get at bottle with than the specialized zee cage plastic cages. The only issue is they do not like the 1 litre SIS bottles but there is only one ride I need them on.

  192. #592
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    This should be it.

    K, I think I'm actually done now. Built up some KOM rims to DT Swiss Hubs, and slapped on some new Nobby Nics - this time in the 2.35 model. Seemed appropriate as I just dropped about 50 grams or more on rims. Also finally got in my matchy matchy atlas bar to go with my atlas cranks, and put a few touches of bling so I was a bit more coordinated with the uber gold Kashima sliders. This bike feels a lot stiffer now, in all the right ways. The frame looks ragged as hell next to all the new bits. Tempted to paint it, but if I spend any money on a frame, it'll be towards a whole new one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-p4pb11136395.jpg  

    2013 Kona Unit-p4pb11136397.jpg  


  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcitizen1 View Post
    K, I think I'm actually done now. Built up some KOM rims to DT Swiss Hubs, and slapped on some new Nobby Nics - this time in the 2.35 model. Seemed appropriate as I just dropped about 50 grams or more on rims. Also finally got in my matchy matchy atlas bar to go with my atlas cranks, and put a few touches of bling so I was a bit more coordinated with the uber gold Kashima sliders. This bike feels a lot stiffer now, in all the right ways. The frame looks ragged as hell next to all the new bits. Tempted to paint it, but if I spend any money on a frame, it'll be towards a whole new one.
    White 2011 is nice, I have one 2014 could tempt me, 2015 even more if its 1x only (cleaner right chainstay, no cable stops) and if tapered headset... Done deal, but in meantime 2011 is one of the best of all and last of straight (=stronger?) downtube??? When you say ragged do you mean logos wearing or more than that? Was wonding if kona do touch-up vinyl decals????

  194. #594
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    2011 with X0 cranks, Crossmax ST wheels, upgrade rotors

    2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg fat white hubs, white/black rims and spokes of crossmax st do look great with white and black bike, and handle well with the stiffness of originals but so much lighter... You can also fit superlight tubeless furious freds for major summer KOM activity (lots of sealant needed for furious freds)

  195. #595
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    but in meantime 2011 is one of the best of all and last of straight (=stronger?) downtube???
    2012 (orange one) is the last Unit with straight downtube.

  196. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    2012 (orange one) is the last Unit with straight downtube.
    Ah, thanks! I am worried... At this rate I will convince myself I need more than one Unit...

  197. #597
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    No, you're good. Unless, Kona decide to make Unit out of Reynolds 853. But I don't see that happening. What I would like to see happen even more is more changes in geometry. Unit is already listed as trail bike in Kona's line up, but pushing it just a little bit more in the realm of the Honzo could only bee a good thing. Little shorter chainstays, little more reach, half a degree slacker headangle... Angry 100mm 29er.

  198. #598
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    What I would like to see happen even more is more changes in geometry. Unit is already listed as trail bike in Kona's line up, but pushing it just a little bit more in the realm of the Honzo could only bee a good thing. Little shorter chainstays, little more reach, half a degree slacker headangle... Angry 100mm 29er.
    heh, ^^^^^^^crazy talk right there. the current/and 2013 unit is one of the most, if not the most (along with the jake the snake) dialed, as far as geometry and handling is concerned of any kona produced since 1988. bike is perfect for it's intended versatile purpose. call the guys at kona. they'll tell you the same thing. unit is a unit, honzo is a honzo. maybe you should get a honzo

    rog

  199. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    heh, ^^^^^^^crazy talk right there. the current/and 2013 unit is one of the most, if not the most (along with the jake the snake) dialed, as far as geometry and handling is concerned of any kona produced since 1988. bike is perfect for it's intended versatile purpose. call the guys at kona. they'll tell you the same thing. unit is a unit, honzo is a honzo. maybe you should get a honzo

    rog
    Honzo is too much bike for at least 50% of the people that bought it. Unit could be the perfect answer for those people. And for many others who love a good steel hardtail. Crazy talk for narrowminded simple folks, maybe, but there is nothing wrong with agresive geometry for XC.You can bow before your shrine for the most dialled bike since 1988, but that does't mean things can't get better.
    And I'm sure nobody at Kona, or any other brand for that matter, will tell me that any of their bikes is not the most dialled bike. Ever.

  200. #600
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    @cborrman the paint is totally trashed. Lots of scrapes and dings over couple of seasons of riding have left it looking used beyond its miles. The paint job looks great when new, but does't last long at all.

    The black and white is pretty timelesss.

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