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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnavy05 View Post
    In her final form! 21 lbs 3 oz. with pedals.

    Attachment 800441
    Nice! What headset did you end up using?

  2. #202
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    The top half of the headset is the one that came on the bike, the bottom half is a cane creek 40 series (I think) to fit the taper of the steerer tube. The bike shop I bought the bike from ordered it and installed it so that's why I'm not exactly sure which model it is. It was about $30 or $40 for the bottom half if that helps.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  3. #203
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    Great, thanks!

  4. #204
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    If you want to run a tapered fork on the 2013 Unit, here's what you need:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Cane Creek 40.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly
    Cane Creek 110.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly

    I hear Chris King makes a similar bottom cup that allows you to run a tapered fork on a zero stack 1 1/8 headtube, but I couldn't figure out which model. Inset 7 maybe?

    If you want to be 100% sure, call Cane Creek or King.

    One thing to be aware of is that going this route (external bottom cup instead of a zero stack) will slacken the headtube angle. Random people on the internet seem to ballpark it at 1 degree, but I haven't seen anyone actually measure it.

  5. #205
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    That's a big help - thanks. I want to upgrade the fork, not sure what to get just yet and at the same time I want to swap to a sealed bearing headset, for the bottom at least.

    Hope does a ZS44/30 which might do for a 1 1/8" fork. They also do a EC44/40.

    Looks like there's a few options out there which is great. The extra height of an EC would slacken things slightly but I doubt there's 1 degree in it? Thanks for the info.

  6. #206
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    Awesome bikes I'm on the lookout now. I just missed the chance to pick up a barely used Unit for $300, now I'm obsessed with finding one. Nicely modded ones here.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by WineDine29er View Post
    Sweet bike...What are your dimensions? There is a 22 inch for sale locally identical to yours the guy wants 750$ is that a decent price? Thanks
    I'm 6'6" (197cm / 95cm inseam). It feels pretty spot on on my normal trails, though I could probably have gone a size down for tricky technical stuff.

    Regarding price, can't say what's fair in th US since I'm in Europe. New ones retail at around 800 +shipping, that would be $1000-$1100. There seems to be no tendency of sales prices. Two lbs sources say there is not much in stock.

  8. #208
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369766275.790784.jpg
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    Quick question about the sliding drop outs. There is a threaded pin (with 8mm nut) that protrudes from the drop out. The idea is that the pin keeps the slider from creeping forward if you have the wheel slid back.

    Are these pins necessary if you have the slider set all the way forward? The weight weenie in me wants to remove them.

    I can think of 2 far fetched reasons why I might want to keep them in:

    1) prevent water from settling into the hole where the pins sit
    2) maybe the sliders shouldn't rub directly against the frame

    Thoughts?

    I can ink

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369766275.790784.jpg
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    Quick question about the sliding drop outs. There is a threaded pin (with 8mm nut) that protrudes from the drop out. The idea is that the pin keeps the slider from creeping forward if you have the wheel slid back.

    Are these pins necessary if you have the slider set all the way forward? The weight weenie in me wants to remove them.

    I can think of 2 far fetched reasons why I might want to keep them in:

    1) prevent water from settling into the hole where the pins sit
    2) maybe the sliders shouldn't rub directly against the frame

    Thoughts?

    I can ink
    I'm kind of ocd about my wheel being in the drop outs straight. So, I use the threaded pins to make sure that I am moving both sides of the dropouts back the exact same amount. But, if you are slamming the dropouts all the way forward I don't see why you would need them.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnavy05 View Post
    I'm kind of ocd about my wheel being in the drop outs straight. So, I use the threaded pins to make sure that I am moving both sides of the dropouts back the exact same amount. But, if you are slamming the dropouts all the way forward I don't see why you would need them.
    I would never take them out just because of my self-diagnosed bike OCD.

    That being said, Spillway you should feel free to take them out, the only future annoyance will be the collection of gunk in the tapped portion of the frame; easy enough to self-clean by threading the rod back in, but I'm always wary of small tapped holes in frames. . .

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnavy05 View Post
    I'm kind of ocd about my wheel being in the drop outs straight. So, I use the threaded pins to make sure that I am moving both sides of the dropouts back the exact same amount. But, if you are slamming the dropouts all the way forward I don't see why you would need them.
    Thanks for the feedback. I cross posted on the frame-builders forum and consensus is that it's ok to remove the set screws. I'm going to put some silicone grease in the holes and do dance a little jig over small grams saved.

  12. #212
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    Thanks for the feedback. I cross posted on the frame-builders forum and consensus is that it's ok to remove the set screws. I'm going to put some silicone grease in the holes and do dance a little jig over small grams saved.
    Hope that dancey-jig works miracles for ya, cause it'll be at the expense of driveline parts & performance.

    The primary SS maintenance I do is chain lube & tension, which I check before every ride. (OCD 2) Paragon sliders, and Swingers make this easy.

    Without the set screws you may find it more difficult for brake & wheel alignment, and proper chain tension will suffer.







    (by phone)

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Hope that dancey-jig works miracles for ya, cause it'll be at the expense of driveline parts & performance.

    The primary SS maintenance I do is chain lube & tension, which I check before every ride. (OCD 2) Paragon sliders, and Swingers make this easy.

    Without the set screws you may find it more difficult for brake & wheel alignment, and proper chain tension will suffer.

    (by phone)
    Grumpy often?

    I strongly doubt I will have any brake or wheel alignment problems. The sliders are completely forward. So there is no way they are going anywhere. The set screws don't ensure chain tension in this scenario. No miracle needed. But, hey, if you want to sound contentious, feel free.

  14. #214
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    I have plenty of miles on sliding drops and track ends without the annoying "set screws." As long as you get the wheel somewhat centered (I eyeball it using the tire and chainstays), you're good. There is enough slack that you can be off by a little bit and not cause too much, if any at all, wear on the drive train. At least I haven't noticed any abnormal wear. And if they do wear? So what? Just replace. It's not like they're uber expensive.

    Spillway, you can get some of that Clearbra 3M film, or maybe even left over film from phone screen protectors and cover up the holes. Lighter than grease, I would imagine.

  15. #215
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    Great suggestion. I was about to order some sort of plastic film to deal with cable rub on the frame anyways. Thanks for the idea.

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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Spillway, some people learn from other's mistakes, while most must learn for themselves. Clearly, your in the majority.

    Did not intend to bruise the delicate inner weight-weenie.

    (by phone)

  17. #217
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Had my Unit for a couple of months, pretty much stock other than tyres (winter on its way down here), shorter stem and bigger gear outback (too many big long hills in Welly). Keen to drop some weight, what would would yo do first?

    2013 Kona Unit-imageuploadedbytapatalk1369886180.434359.jpg

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart_74 View Post
    Had my Unit for a couple of months, pretty much stock other than tyres (winter on its way down here), shorter stem and bigger gear outback (too many big long hills in Welly). Keen to drop some weight, what would would yo do first?
    how much of a budget? my niner fork dropped a lot of weight, and so did my am. classic wheels, but those two together cost more than the whole bike did.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  19. #219
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Budget reasonably limited - so its a case of bang for your buck! Out of the forks/wheels which was the better upgrade? Both in terms of weight and performance?

  20. #220
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    Go with wheels. In fact, take the money you were planning on the next upgrade and put it into a better wheelset.

  21. #221
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Any recommendations? Heard good things about Stan's Crest?

  22. #222
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    depending on your weight and riding style, there is likely a stans rim for you. I personally like the american classic wheels. But I've had hope pro 2/ stans flow wheels and they were really great.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!! :cornut:

  23. #223
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    I'm having a new wheelset built right now. Can't wait to take it for a ride when I get back to Hawaii from my Pennsylvania vacation.

  24. #224
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    Todays useful info for beginners and others. I realize this is everyday stuff to most readers but I spent a fair time googling before doing so why not share.

    ParkTool HCW-17 lockring spanner does the job on the 2013 Unit lockring. X-Tools budget chainwhip on the cog (no pic that is too basic).
    2013 Kona Unit-img_0983.jpg

    Surly 21T cog installed. It has a nice wide base and a slight offset too to make it possible to fine tune the chainline.
    2013 Kona Unit-img_1031.jpg

    New KMC Z610 chain. Old chain was one link too short to suffice. Cut chain with the housebrand 'Xtreme Pinpusher III' from German mail order giant Rose. 'Missing Link' was included with chain.
    2013 Kona Unit-img_1033.jpg



    Switch the adjustable dropouts was easy. The dropout solution was one of my main plus points on the Kona . It works well good!



    2013 Kona Unit-img_1034.jpg

  25. #225
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    2013 Kona Unit and 120 Fork

    Anyone got a 120mm fork on one? Ride impressions? thanks

  26. #226
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    ...
    Last edited by Lammila; 06-10-2014 at 12:58 AM.

  27. #227
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    I'm looking for a frame/fork and 120 is what i"m leaning towards. Thanks and well done video.

  28. #228
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    I have a 2012 and I think I would have preferred to have a Revy XX on there at 120 or 130mm, but there is the headtube/steerer issue. Instead I have a SID XX. At the time I was gonna get a Reba with Poploc but QBP had a sale on the SIDs and I'm glad I went that way.

    As far as I'm concerned, I will be sticking with the XX damper for my SS needs; I just totally rely on that lockout and love how well it works and how damn slick my cockpit looks. Wonderful on demand pedal platform and the fact that the lockout has the adjustable threshold means you can lock it out in certain situations besides uphill mashing:
    --If you're just hitting shit really hard at the moment and your fork is bottoming out.
    --If you're doing jumps; eliminates bob during the run up and prevents bottom out on the landing, even though it usually goes almost full travel.
    --Going over drop-offs; keeps your front up for anti-OTB but won't ever break your wrists.

    I love how the three things on my bar are all hydraulic, and would totally go for symmetry with a Reverb if RS made one in 27.2.

    I put the RH Xloc on the left under my XT lever, and it almost looks like one thing with just two clamps and two hoses. I tore the Xloc hose in a crash and realized that the spare hose they include with the fork is a little longer, and I no longer have any hose to hose contact.

    I'm really happy with the fork, its nice to know I have some of the best dampers possible so I can just ride fast with little sketch factor. Once I can afford to get new wheels (I'm totally getting my money's worth out of these stock wheels, lulz), I'm slapping 15QR lowers on, a Saint M820 caliper and the 203mm Saint RT99. Lets just say I like brakes.

    Oh by the way. I'm running Hans Dampfs (Trailstar 2.35) front and rear, tubeless at around 26 psi and I love them too. I feel like my rear tire actually needs more traction than my front (uphill mashing) and these things are like glue.


    Oh yeah and lastly, if you people are wondering what bottom bracket to buy...normally I would just get a mid range BB cause they're just bearings and how long they last can be hit or miss. However! The new Shimano Dura Ace BB, the SM-BB9000, has a smaller outer diameter which is actually the same as the BB shell on the Unit (39mm, IIRC). This is smaller than the standard Hollowtech BBs from Shimano or FSA which are like 44mm OD.

    It looks really slick in how it's all the same diameter. And of course it's a high quality bearing with good seals in there. Since Shimano supplies a plastic reducer bushing with it to go into the 16 spline BB tools, you'll never mar the BB while installing it either.

    Just FYI, Shimano BBs have a really tight fit with FSA cranks but they work fine.

  29. #229
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    Hi, I want to upgrade my cranks for some X0 with a spider lees mrp chainring.
    My question is, the cranks comes with BB? What BB is it? Gxp? Thanks!
    Love the bike!
    Upgrades:
    Thomson seat post, stem and clamp.
    Niner carbon bars.
    Arch & hope wheel set.
    Hope qr.
    Egg bitters pedals.

  30. #230
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    My unit...the cheapest bike I ever had and the more fun..weird...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-img_1202.jpg  


  31. #231
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    I've watched this thread for the longest time before getting and building up my own.. and then registering just to post a pic of it:

  32. #232
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    I upgraded the BB to a Phil Wood square taper and White Industry ENO cranks. I tried installing a 44t chainring, but its rubs the frame. Am I doing something wrong or will it just not work? I guess I could get a smaller Chainring and a small rear cog.

    Its a commuter bike on the prairies.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by highfructosecorn View Post
    i've watched this thread for the longest time before getting and building up my own.. And then registering just to post a pic of it:
    sweet!!
    Lynn Woods:yikes:
    JRA cycles

  34. #234
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    Cool-blue Rhythm 2014 Unit

    I hear the 2014 Unit will be same spec basically as 2013 but painted a matte colour. The colour will be a Dark Cyan logo on a matte Cyan colour...sort of a grey/blue. The new Unit will likely be around A$1299 (current one is A$1099).

    Cheers,
    t_surfer

  35. #235
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    new drive train
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-img_1241.jpg  


  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burra View Post
    new drive train
    I've been considering getting an X9 crankset! Please how do you like it?

  37. #237
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    Very nice, clean look, easy installation and feel stiffer than stock. Good buy.

    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    I've been considering getting an X9 crankset! Please how do you like it?

  38. #238
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    I decided to do a wheelset upgrade first. Although I did swap out the FSA cranks and BB to an SLX/XT combo with a Blackspire chainring.

  39. #239
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    Well I've just ordered a set of XT Brakes (M785) with new Ice-Tech rotors (RT86 - I stuck with 180 and 160mm Rotors).

    For those that have made the swap, can I use the standard Avid caliper mount adapters with the new brakes, or will I need to buy the Shimano adapters too? Thanks.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    Oh by the way. I'm running Hans Dampfs (Trailstar 2.35) front and rear, tubeless at around 26 psi and I love them too. I feel like my rear tire actually needs more traction than my front (uphill mashing) and these things are like glue.
    I'm running the same tires and pressure on my '11 unit. The tires were a gift from my wife who bought them with no hint from me. In fact I normally run low knob tires like the RR and never thought I would like such an aggressive tire. After 6 rides I'm in love with those tires and don't want to ride anything else. They're like velcro on the trails and I don't notice any extra rolling resistance. They totally changed the Unit experience for me.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by gilly_mtb View Post
    Well I've just ordered a set of XT Brakes (M785) with new Ice-Tech rotors (RT86 - I stuck with 180 and 160mm Rotors).

    For those that have made the swap, can I use the standard Avid caliper mount adapters with the new brakes, or will I need to buy the Shimano adapters too? Thanks.
    I just bought the shimano adapters when I got my brakes from Wiggle. I didn't want to run into any problems even I read plenty of people using them. Just don't use the CPS bolts and washers.

  42. #242
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    Thanks - I ended up just ordering the adapters today after hearing about some of the problems people have had sticking with the Avids.

  43. #243
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    You'll be better off that way. I love my XTs the silver just complements the Unit so well IMHO.

  44. #244
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    I don't have calipers. Does anyone know what size seatpost clamp the Unit takes?

  45. #245
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    Well I got to take my Unit out for it's proper ride yesterday. I went up to Peacock Flats/Kealia Trail on the North Shore of Oahu. The opening climb is 2.5 miles with some 15 deg grades in there. I admit I walked most of it since it was fire roads. I had to save my energy for the next 7.3 miles of fast up and downs. After that we hit Kealia Trail which drops down through 1.5 miles of switchbacks to Dillingham Airfield. My buddy I was riding with was using an Intense SS2 and he flew down the gnarliest trail on the island. I proceeded to ride my Unit down. Well I did about half of it. It's basically a super rocky downhill style course on the side of a sheer cliff.


    We then went to Pupukea/Sunset Hills just past Waimea Bay. This was more singletrack, but was so fun. By then end of the day my legs gave out and I had to walk the last hill up and out the Jeep. Overall we did about 20 miles and 4500 vertical feet of climbing.




    I really liked the rigid fork but I think for what I have here on the island I'm going to get a suspension fork. Excuse the cell pictures it was really bright and my iphone was having trouble.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Dingo View Post
    I upgraded the BB to a Phil Wood square taper and White Industry ENO cranks. I tried installing a 44t chainring, but its rubs the frame. Am I doing something wrong or will it just not work? I guess I could get a smaller Chainring and a small rear cog.

    Its a commuter bike on the prairies.
    You might have gotten a BB with too short and axle. If you're putting the chainring on the outside of the crank's spider and its still hitting, you need to get a BB with a longer axle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Burra View Post
    Hi, I want to upgrade my cranks for some X0 with a spider lees mrp chainring.
    My question is, the cranks comes with BB? What BB is it? Gxp? Thanks!
    Love the bike!
    Upgrades:
    Thomson seat post, stem and clamp.
    Niner carbon bars.
    Arch & hope wheel set.
    Hope qr.
    Egg bitters pedals.
    Yes, GXP but no, you must buy the BB separately.

    Quote Originally Posted by always_last View Post
    I'm running the same tires and pressure on my '11 unit. The tires were a gift from my wife who bought them with no hint from me. In fact I normally run low knob tires like the RR and never thought I would like such an aggressive tire. After 6 rides I'm in love with those tires and don't want to ride anything else. They're like velcro on the trails and I don't notice any extra rolling resistance. They totally changed the Unit experience for me.
    Totally man, I've been loving mine the past few days. It rained a ton and and now dried off, and they are such glue on the dirt here. I can tell I'm taking corners faster than everyone cause my turns rip up the tacky dirt the most. I experienced that pure bliss moment when I had both wheels sliding under acceleration in a flat turn today, getting so sideways. I love it.

  47. #247
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    My 2013 Kona Unit

    All stock except for the following:

    ODI Rogue Grips with orange clamps
    XT brakes and rotors
    XT bottom bracket
    SLX Crankset
    Custom Wheelset: WTB Frequency i23 rims, Paul hubs, Wheelsmith DB14 spokes, nipples, and 20t Eno freewheel.
    Nobby Nic 2.35 SS front
    Spec. Purgatory 2.3 rear
    Straitline DeFacto pedal, Shimano XT and Time X Roc (just bought to try)

    I have an X-Fusion Slide RL2 fork coming this week also.






    Hoping to do an outside photo shoot this evening when the light is better.

  48. #248
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  49. #249
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Looking to swap out the current FSA headset, any recommendations? Does the Unit use a standard 1 1/8?

  50. #250
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    Some really nice Units here, I too am thinking off getting one within the next month or so. Information in this thread has been very helpfull!

  51. #251
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    Hope to post mine here soon. Really like the ride.

  52. #252
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    Cane creek headsets. You can buy separate uppers and lower pieces and use tapered steer tubes.

  53. #253
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    For those who did not see it already, the raw/cyan 2014 Unit: KONA BIKES | 2014 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | UNIT

    It seems the geometry and sizes have changed

    Size 15 17 19 21
    1 Reach 393 416 438 461
    2 Stack 584 594 603 613
    3 HT Angle 70 70 70 70
    4 HT Length 105 115 125 135
    5 ST Angle 73 73 73 73
    6 ST Length 381 432 483 533
    7 CS Length 434 434 434 434
    8 BB Drop 56 56 56 56
    9 Wheelbase 1064 1090 1115 1142
    10 Front Cter 636 662 687 713
    11 Fork Lngth 470 470 470 470
    12 Fork Offset 45 45 45 45
    13 TT Length 572 597 622 648
    14 Standover 760 787 814 842
    FG | SS | FS | CX

  54. #254
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    Here is mine. Love it!

    2013 Kona Unit-img_0009.jpg

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    Rode 4:45 min yesterday, this thing keeps getting better!....love it!
    Last edited by Burra; 07-18-2013 at 04:02 PM.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xavonseine View Post
    For those who did not see it already, the raw/cyan 2014 Unit: KONA BIKES | 2014 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | UNIT
    Glad I got the '13, that thing is pug fugly compared to my raw steel steed.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  57. #257
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    mine ^^^^^^^ comes in Thursday. gonna run it 100% stock till I break something on it. well i'll take the reflectors off and put my spd's on it. glad I went with the 2013 also.

    rog

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    I like it short of the blue "kona". It's still raw just the clear coat has a blue hue. Look at the additional pics they have close up. Actually looks nice. I'm still glad I got the '13 model for the orange.

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teetshorn View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice! What do you think of the fork swap?

  60. #260
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    The fork is much better. I rode the p2 a few rides and thought it was very unforgiving. Really enjoy the lighter front end and find if I ride around 25 to 28 psi in the front the ride is very smooth. I also run carbon riser wide bars that also help.
    IMO, it's one of the best upgrades I have done.

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    Good to hear! I'm running 2.4 Ardents which have helped soften things up a little, but I'd like to get some carbon up front to see how that helps.

    XT Brakes fitted today (wish I did that sooner), I think a new fork and carbon bars will be next.

  62. #262
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    I agree the P2 fork is brutal on certain trails. I went with some front squish for now but I'm looking to go with a 70mm stem and carbon bars eventually.

  63. #263
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    2013 sizing question for those who own one...

    Frame size is measured center to top like every other Kona I've owned. Am I correct?

    Thx!

  64. #264
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    Why's the geometry of the 2014 unit bad compared to the 2013 modell. Can't see big differences.

  65. #265
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    Got a few rides on my 2013 and I have a question for you guys about the wheels. Is it me or are they super flexy...? I have tried to setup the brake caliper in all different positions, but when I get out of the saddle and stomp the pedals the front rotor makes a ton of noise. It happens the worst when I have the bike leaning to the right and I'm stomping on the left pedal. I'm thinking about taking the wheels to the local shop and having them increase the spoke tension (as high as they are comfortable going) and seeing if that helps. I'd like to get a better wheelset, but need a short-term solution.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedly View Post
    Got a few rides on my 2013 and I have a question for you guys about the wheels. Is it me or are they super flexy...? I have tried to setup the brake caliper in all different positions, but when I get out of the saddle and stomp the pedals the front rotor makes a ton of noise. It happens the worst when I have the bike leaning to the right and I'm stomping on the left pedal. I'm thinking about taking the wheels to the local shop and having them increase the spoke tension (as high as they are comfortable going) and seeing if that helps. I'd like to get a better wheelset, but need a short-term solution.
    That's what you get with factory builds. Only thing I can think of is to get someone to tension them up properly for you. A local guy to me does them for $10/wheel.

  67. #267
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    I didn't notice it on mine but I just got a custom set built and don't even want to look at the stock set.

  68. #268
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    I've got a custom set of wheels on my geared bike so I guess I'm a little spoiled. I would like to get something a little more swanky soon. What would you guys recommend for a decent set? I've got hope pro 2 evo's laced to ex500's on my nomad. Not looking to go that high end, maybe in the $300 to $400 range.

  69. #269
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    bike is brilliant right out of the box minus the reflectors and pedals. raced mine tonight for the 1st time. I most certainly wouldn't call the p2 fork harsh, I would call it very efficient. running low to mid 20's psi in stock ikon tires with tubes. no issues.

    rog

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    Picked mine up this week. Changed out the BB7's for Avid juicy 5's, carbon seat post, flipped the stem and got rid of the bash guard and reflectors. Very happy with the bike.

    Taking her up into the Rockies here in Canada tomorrow.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by veklox View Post
    Why's the geometry of the 2014 unit bad compared to the 2013 modell. Can't see big differences.
    the 2013 19" has a 24" ett which is perfect imo. the 2014 has a 24.5. not perfect. for me at least. 5'11.5".

    rog

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by msedly View Post
    Got a few rides on my 2013 and I have a question for you guys about the wheels. Is it me or are they super flexy...? I have tried to setup the brake caliper in all different positions, but when I get out of the saddle and stomp the pedals the front rotor makes a ton of noise. It happens the worst when I have the bike leaning to the right and I'm stomping on the left pedal. I'm thinking about taking the wheels to the local shop and having them increase the spoke tension (as high as they are comfortable going) and seeing if that helps. I'd like to get a better wheelset, but need a short-term solution.
    I may be too late with this, but your problem isn't caused by poor tension on the spokes. It's caused by flex through the quick release and/or flex in the fork. Try swapping the QR for one with a bit more bite, or just tighten yours some more. Greasing the moving parts on the QR helps.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  73. #273
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    Curious, how many of you kept the stock bar? Or switched to something with comparable sweep (12 degrees)? My current setup on my Redline has very minimal sweep and some rise, this bar feels like beachcruiser in my hands.

    But I have read about the "natural" sweep hands want to attain, and as the shop put it, the thing has no trade-in value. I'm going to give it a shot, switching bars is simple enough.

    Just curious on feedback.

  74. #274
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    That was the first thing I did with mine. Added Syncros AM20 carbon risers with a ridgid carbon origon 8 fork.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    the 2013 19" has a 24" ett which is perfect imo. the 2014 has a 24.5. not perfect. for me at least. 5'11.5".

    rog
    Funny, I'm exactly the same height as you and I find the TT length of the 2013 20" absolutely spot on. It's only half an inch longer than the 19" (24.5"), not sure I'd even notice the difference, but I do like it. I would like a slightly shorter, 80mm stem, but the TT length is perfect. Yeah, it's longish, but I'm used to riding older style XC hardtails like a '97 Stumpy and a 2003 RM Hammer which felt much longer than this.

    Obviously, the length is useful when getting out of the saddle when climbing. For descending, the long TT gives you plenty of space to move around, use body english, and keep your weight over the centre and back wheel. Really glad I got the 20", there's still a mile of seat post sticking out, would look even more extended on the 19".

    Quote Originally Posted by iceboxsteve View Post
    Curious, how many of you kept the stock bar? Or switched to something with comparable sweep (12 degrees)? Just curious on feedback.
    I've kept my stock bars, they're great, can't see the need to change. Not sure what I'd change too...? Straight carbon bars? Waste of money, and I would feel a bit paranoid about locking it up outside the pub. Riser bars? It's not a DH bike, not even an AM bike, it's pure XC and stock bars are fine.

    I never thought I'd say this since dispensing with them in the late 90's, and I know they're not fashionable anymore, but I wouldn't mind some shortish bar ends for out of the saddle efforts, would really come in handy, imo.
    "You go up the hill, you go down the hill."

  76. #276
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    I just went this route:

    Odi Flight Control Handlebar > Components > Handlebars and Stems > Handlebars | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    The rise is perfect and at 750 mm width it just feels better. I feel more in control.

    Also slapped on some Ergon grips. Like butta.

  77. #277
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    That is almost my current SS is set up with (I have to watch that, this weekend my "current" ride will be the Unit!) 20mm rise and 9/4 sweep and wide.

    I agree I don't need a ton of rise, I don't ride AM or DH, I'm XC through and through. Just curious what routes others too. I plan to ride stock and adjust to my personal feel.

  78. #278
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    stock.

    rog

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    I like the stock bars but swapped them out to try the Easton EC70 lo rise bars they are 685mm so a little shorter but not much

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    Does anyone know what size seat post collar is?

  81. #281
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    28,6 on the 12 model. Assume it will be no different on the 13

  82. #282
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    Awesome thank you!

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    Does anyone know what size seat post collar is?
    Pretty sure its 30,0 for 2013 - should say on the inside of the collar.

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart_74 View Post
    Pretty sure its 30,0 for 2013 - should say on the inside of the collar.
    It say 30 13B1. On Kona's site it says the FD is 28.6mm. So that's why I'm asking. I emailed Kona also but not sure how long that will take to get a reply.

  85. #285
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    I wish I had calipers.

  86. #286
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    Directly from2013 Kona Tech Book seat collar diameter on unit is 29.8.

    Here is a link. Its on page 105 far right column.

    Oddly size has been different year to year

    NOT the same from 2012 to 2013 but I can see how you would make that assumption.

    http://kona.hu/docs/Kona-Tech-Book-2013.pdf

    Kona Tech dept confirmed via email !!

  87. #287
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    Thank you for that. You can see why I was confused.

    I'm considering a QR collar but still not sure as it is the last stock piece on my Unit. Looking at either the hope or chromag. I'm liking the looks of the chromag but can't find much on it in the way of reviews.

  88. #288
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    so when's the new frame coming? I mean you replaced EVERYTHING else on the 1000.00, I mean 2500.00 heavy steel frame.

    rog

  89. #289
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    Well I had a lot of it already, but I had my other single speed stolen and I used the claim to get a new wheel set and a few other things.

  90. #290
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    just messin with ya. lovin my 13' unit more and more!

    rog

  91. #291
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    None taken just saying after my other baby was stolen I had to make this one mine. I love it. I now know why people say a new set of wheels can make a huge difference.

  92. #292
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    So... I'm stopping down at my LBS to order a Unit this week. The thought of a glorified adult bmx is going to be the best 33rd bday present to myself EVER. Hoping I can get a 2013... hate the 2014 colors. I'm 5'9" 200lbs... stocky build, I'm thinking a 17"?

    curious what upgrades you would do right away for a couple extra hundred? I sume have the shop add a few upgrades as they build it

  93. #293
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    2013 Kona Unit

    17" sounds right to me. I'm 5'10 and could fit both the 17" and 18". I'd definitely go with an upgraded wheelset. I feel the stock wheelset really holds the bike back. Everything else is sufficiently nice.

    You may want to consider a different gearing, depending on your terrain and ride style. I found the stock gearing to be steep and went with 32-19 instead. 32-20 might have been a better choice for me.

    I also upgraded the bars and seatpost to carbon. I felt like the carbon bars made a more noticeable difference since the steel fork does transmit a noticeable amount of chatter through the hands, as with any rigid steel fork.

    I love the ikons but lots of folks prefer wider tires for bump absorption. Myself, I like the ikon's balance between traction and rotationsl weight.

    Finally, I've come to really like the bb7's. they are reliable, perform well, and are low maintenance. If I had to upgrade, the xt hydros are the best value around.

    Cheers.

  94. #294
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    bb7 are ruler. had my very expensive indy ti 29er single set up with bb7 for almost 9 years. flawless no maintenance brakes. done 3 races in 15 days in the 20 something days owning my 13' unit. still running completely stock. did take the bashguard off. the stock 32-18 gear is a good balance for flats/steeps. was gonna go 34-18 but will stay put for now. even after my carbon everything, mavic xmax 29er wheels (best wheels ever, still) lightweight indyfab setup, the unit stock everything works just as well, but better due to modern geometry. nothing like putting the wood to dudes on lightweight carbon blingy bikes on a heavy rigid cheap stock one speed 29er!

    rog

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    New wheelset right away? not this fellah... I'm looking to drop a grand on the bike and a few hundred for some bling... can't drop over half the price of the bike right away for a brand new wheelset

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    All personal preference, but best upgrades for me have been grip swap to ODI Rogues, new pedals, 2.4 Ardents (tubeless) to soften things up a little, and now I've gone to XT Brakes with IceTech rotors. LOVE the bike!

  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    New wheelset right away? not this fellah... I'm looking to drop a grand on the bike and a few hundred for some bling... can't drop over half the price of the bike right away for a brand new wheelset
    just leave it be. it's a thousand dollar bike with an ocean liner's anchor heavy frame. why turn it into an expensive bike with an absurdly heavy frame? want a bling bike? buy one complete. save lots o money/effort that way with a light frame attached to it.

    rog

  98. #298
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    Good and evil grips will be for me... need to find some nice spd pedals for the shoes... 2.4 tires eh? I thought about going the tubeless route. Can you with stock unit rims?

  99. #299
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    Yeah I just went the ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape and stans valves and fluid - works perfect!

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    Hey... i'm possibly going to add a front shock on it as its getting built up at the shop... and opinions on the FOX 32 F29?

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    Or... is there another 100mm shock that has a lockout that you guys like?

  102. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by m0ngy View Post
    Funny, I'm exactly the same height as you and I find the TT length of the 2013 20" absolutely spot on. It's only half an inch longer than the 19" (24.5"), not sure I'd even notice the difference, but I do like it. I would like a slightly shorter, 80mm stem, but the TT length is perfect. Yeah, it's longish, but I'm used to riding older style XC hardtails like a '97 Stumpy and a 2003 RM Hammer which felt much longer than this.

    Obviously, the length is useful when getting out of the saddle when climbing. For descending, the long TT gives you plenty of space to move around, use body english, and keep your weight over the centre and back wheel. Really glad I got the 20", there's still a mile of seat post sticking out, would look even more extended on the 19".



    I've kept my stock bars, they're great, can't see the need to change. Not sure what I'd change too...? Straight carbon bars? Waste of money, and I would feel a bit paranoid about locking it up outside the pub. Riser bars? It's not a DH bike, not even an AM bike, it's pure XC and stock bars are fine.

    I never thought I'd say this since dispensing with them in the late 90's, and I know they're not fashionable anymore, but I wouldn't mind some shortish bar ends for out of the saddle efforts, would really come in handy, imo.
    ergon has that grip and bar end as a combo set and I'm interested as well.

  103. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    Or... is there another 100mm shock that has a lockout that you guys like?
    I'm using an X-Fusion Slide RL2. I like it so far.

  104. #304
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    I went and rode a (too big) 20" unit last night because it was all they had at the shop. The guy that owned the shop said the Unit is not a bike to run with suspension.. said there are other bikes that are SS to run a shock with. And he said he would rock a 80mm ... so that kind of threw me off. I think i'm going to miss a>shocks and now i'm second guessing the thought of missing gears. Darnit...

  105. #305
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    Really?

    I was on a 19" D440 and felt a 20" would be nice, felt small at first but that was mainly fit issues (handlebars mainly). Now it feels great. I have a 100mm Reba on it and no one told me to not. Most guys I've met and talked to about their Units had forks. And I trust my LBS.

    The D440 was rigid and while I miss that I am thankful for the fork. As far as missing gears... I haven't missed those in years.

    To each his own though, just my 2 cents.

    If you have the cash and the right fit the stock Unit would be a stellar intro to SS. If you're afraid just make sure your other (geared/suspension) bike is running?

  106. #306
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    Cant speak for the fork (still find the P2 fork brilliant), but as for gears, you can always buy other dropouts or an internal geared hub.

    Add the costs of an IGH to the bike costs, and it is still a great bike at a reasonable price

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4

  107. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    I went and rode a (too big) 20" unit last night because it was all they had at the shop. The guy that owned the shop said the Unit is not a bike to run with suspension.. said there are other bikes that are SS to run a shock with. And he said he would rock a 80mm ... so that kind of threw me off. I think i'm going to miss a>shocks and now i'm second guessing the thought of missing gears. Darnit...
    i'm a shop guy and pretty darn opinionated, just the way i am. the units geo is so dialed that i'd hate to see it changed with a sussy fork. if it's the bumping, jarring, and harshness that yer turned off by, well, that's what you got knees and elbows for. the most dialed and sensitive suspension system ever known to man.

    gears? well with a ss yer always in the right gear. the 32-18 that comes on the unit seems just about perfect. buy one, throw a leg over it, push on the pedals, yank on the bars, grit yer teeth, growl, and smile off into the sunset.

    and the bike is wicked CHEAP MONEY!!!

    rog

  108. #308
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    After riding my Unit with both a 100mm suspension fork and the P2 I can say that for the trails that I ride the most I'm glad to have the suspension but its nice to have both options.

  109. #309
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    Sorry if this is a bit OT or in the wrong spot...but This thread inspired me to purchase a 2013 Unit and I have been loving it. The only catch is I went with a 19 when I should have bought a 20. Is there anyone who has a 20 and needs a 19 instead? I'd be up for a swap if that is the case...
    Cheers
    Jay

  110. #310
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    Re: 2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by kohlboto View Post
    Sorry if this is a bit OT or in the wrong spot...but This thread inspired me to purchase a 2013 Unit and I have been loving it. The only catch is I went with a 19 when I should have bought a 20. Is there anyone who has a 20 and needs a 19 instead? I'd be up for a swap if that is the case...
    Cheers
    Jay
    Buy a seatpost with more setback and a slighty longer stem...

    I wanted a 18 or 19. There was very little difference in geo, so I bought a 19, mounted a post without setback and a 10mm shorter stem. Fits perfectly now

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4

  111. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cif View Post
    Buy a seatpost with more setback and a slighty longer stem...

    I wanted a 18 or 19. There was very little difference in geo, so I bought a 19, mounted a post without setback and a 10mm shorter stem. Fits perfectly now

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4
    I did exactly that, smaller frame, longer stem and set back seat-post.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Kona Unit-image.jpg  


  112. #312
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    Hey guys, I'm excited to say I'll be taking a '13 unit for a spin at a local shop tomorrow. They only have an 18" and a 19" in the shop and the manager there told me that i should fit a 19" but a 20" would be pushing it (too big). I'm 6'0" and 220. I have my fingers crossed the 19" will be a good fit. Thing is, I haven't owned a bike for ... a long time. I'm not sure I would be able to tell if i need bigger. Any pro tips?

  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cif View Post
    Buy a seatpost with more setback and a slighty longer stem...

    I wanted a 18 or 19. There was very little difference in geo, so I bought a 19, mounted a post without setback and a 10mm shorter stem. Fits perfectly now

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4
    Yeah, I know I can go that route but I would prefer to move up a size.
    Bikeman has a 20" frameset that I can buy then sell my 19"...

  114. #314
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    Here's mine, size 18" stock + WTB Saddle, Thomson Setback, Easton 40mm Riser Bar, ODI grips, Wellgo MG-1 pedals. 90mm 6 Kona stem. Maybe I'd be better off on the 19? Im 5'10, 32" inseam.

    2013 Kona Unit-kona.unit.jpg

  115. #315
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    if you have to open up the cockpit that much, go up a frame size. imo.

    rog

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    I'm 5'11" with just shy of a 33" inseam and I ended up with the 19". I always rode an 18" but sized up upon the recommendation from my LBS and it is wonderful.

  117. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    I always rode an 18" but sized up upon the recommendation from my LBS and it is wonderful.
    Post a pic of your setup? Im still dialing the stem/bars, and may end up with an 80mm stem 0 rise, and/or 20-30mm riser bar.

    I found with the stock flat bar and stem I was too hunched over.

  118. #318
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    I agree with the stem. I bought a 60mm to try out. I think I'll grab a 70mm soon but I'm liking it. I have since swapped the bars for Easton EC70 carbon lo-rise bars. The for is now a X-Fusion Slide RL2.

    I need to get pictures.

    I personally didn't like the 90mm stem as I felt it was harder to loft the front wheel. In this regard I like the 60mm but it can be a little twitchy at times. With the stock bars, being 28", the 60mm was very nice indeed. Not so twitchy. I have my stem lowered and flipped also.

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    I'm 5'11" with just shy of a 33" inseam and I ended up with the 19". I always rode an 18" but sized up upon the recommendation from my LBS and it is wonderful.
    yup, I should have sized up...anyone want to buy a practically new 19"?

  120. #320
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    The Unit looks like an awesome fun bike, I'm currently considering one for my winter SS, I preferred the 2013 models to the new 2014's in terms of colour etc but I know that doesn't really matter so much.

  121. #321
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    Here is my Unit, from Spain




  122. #322
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    Near to one month with the bike today.... This is my first SS, and now thinking to convert my other 29er to SS...




  123. #323
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    So after 3 seasons of being away from SS'ing and regretting selling my monocog. I picked up a 13 Kona Frameset from bikeman. STOKED

  124. #324
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    In answer to a few comments on here about size. I normally ride a 19" mountain bike and ended up going with the 20" on the Unit. Fits a lot better and feels more comfortable. Less cluttered and I can moved around the bike more when climbing. It's friggin awesome.

  125. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatlyne View Post
    Hey guys, I'm excited to say I'll be taking a '13 unit for a spin at a local shop tomorrow. They only have an 18" and a 19" in the shop and the manager there told me that i should fit a 19" but a 20" would be pushing it (too big). I'm 6'0" and 220. I have my fingers crossed the 19" will be a good fit. Thing is, I haven't owned a bike for ... a long time. I'm not sure I would be able to tell if i need bigger. Any pro tips?
    Ended up going with the 19" as suggested by the shop. Glad i did, seems to fit perfect.

  126. #326
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    Good call on the 19. Enjoy! Such a sweet handling bike. Still amazed. Rog

  127. #327
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by The Gen View Post
    Here is my Unit, from Spain
    El Gen, very nice bike. Once you start SS you can't stop and you became addicted.
    You can forget now you "old" and "boring" geared bike.

  128. #328
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    Decided the 18" Unit is too small so Im looking to sell/trade it for a 19" -- msg me if interested. In Boulder, Colorado but willing to ship.

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by escocia View Post
    El Gen, very nice bike. Once you start SS you can't stop and you became addicted.
    You can forget now you "old" and "boring" geared bike.
    You're right.... this is totally addictive!!!....

    Hope we can ride together.... we need to organize something in Madrid soon....

    A question for those who has removed the bash... are u using the original bolts?

  130. #330
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    nope. I have always used derailleur hanger bolts for ss chainring bolts. stronger than alloy bolts and just the right size.

    rog

  131. #331
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    Does anyone know if a 30.0mm seat post clamp will fit right? I read a few pages back its 29.8mm ... But I'm a noob. Here's the clamp

    Universal Cycles -- Salsa Lip Lock Seatpost Clamp - Orange

    Thanks

  132. #332
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    ^ Yes, I use a Salsa 30.0 mm

    (tapa)

  133. #333
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    Yes it's 30mm I emailed kona and a link was posted to the tech book and it is 29.8 but a 30mm flip loc works wonderfully.

  134. #334
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    Hey,

    lurker and a "newbie" to the whole MTB thing. Really like the look of 2013 Unit, and I've been playing with the idea of getting one as a short distance commuter/occasional trail hitting/overall fun type of bike. A bit curious though on the raw finish -- is it holding up well even in wetter climates?

    Living in the north of Sweden, I thought I'd use it regardless of weather, rain/snow/sunshine.

    Any thoughts? Should I look elsewhere or am I just OD'ing on the worrying pill?


    Thanks in advance.

  135. #335
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    jocke
    mine is holding up fine in sub aquatic scotland.
    stop worrying, go - buy one today!

  136. #336
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    Question for those swapped out for another rigid fork: I'm looking to save some weight with a rigid carbon, what is everone running? Im looking for a tapered fork, seems niner would be a good fit. Does the increased A-C and stack height of lower external cup for tapered forks effect handling? We're talking +/-15mm total...

  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by octavius View Post
    mine is holding up fine in sub aquatic scotland.
    stop worrying, go - buy one today!
    Ha! Thanks for the help, ocatvius. Guess I'll be on the lookout for one then.

  138. #338
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    It's got what i think is a clear powdercoat on top. So it's not actually raw.

  139. #339
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    Just got back from a ride and something is squeaking this high pitch squeak. Can't reproduce it unless I'm on the bike... Any ideas? I mean it must be one of the hubs right? Not like there's a lotta whirly gigs on the bike.

    Oh, thanks flyin and worrp for the advice about the post clamp. Ordered it this morning.

  140. #340
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    2013 Kona Unit

    Make sure the sliding drop outs are nice and tight and greased (between frame and dropout), check chainring bolts? Good luck!

  141. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart_74 View Post
    Make sure the sliding drop outs are nice and tight and greased (between frame and dropout), check chainring bolts? Good luck!
    All checked and looks good Bart, thanks. It's squeaking when I'm coasting... I'll figure it out or die trying!

  142. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatlyne View Post
    All checked and looks good Bart, thanks. It's squeaking when I'm coasting... I'll figure it out or die trying!
    spray a lil lube on and around rear hub where it spins closest to the dropout on non drive size. triflow works great.

    spray front hub too.

    rog

  143. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    spray a lil lube on and around rear hub where it spins closest to the dropout on non drive size. triflow works great.

    spray front hub too.

    rog
    I happen to have a bottle of tri flow. I'll do that first thing when i get home. Thank you sir.

  144. #344
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    you're most welcome. hope it works. just got back from a sweet ride on my beloved unit. checked out a new to me trail system about 5 miles from the house. spun the road there. the 32-18 stock gear goes plenty quick on the road and motors in the woods the new trails are great and offer up about an hour of riding done in a nice loop.

    still in awe of the unit's handling characteristics. bike rides lighter than it is. it would be scary if lightened up a bit.

    rog

  145. #345
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    Worked like a charm rog, thanks a million

  146. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatlyne View Post
    Worked like a charm rog, thanks a million
    oh good to hear! love the simple easy solutions.

    rog

  147. #347
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    Anyone running a 100mm fork? Thinking about putting a Tower Pro on mine but don't know if the 510mm A-C height will slow things down

  148. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by veklox View Post
    Why's the geometry of the 2014 unit bad compared to the 2013 modell. Can't see big differences.
    Fewer sizes to choose from so some compromise is forced upon some.

    I've been riding my '14 for a few weeks now and no complaints. But this isn't a '14 thread so I'll leave it at that.

  149. #349
    leg
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    greetings from germany and a loved Kona Unit





    the 1st is digital, die 2nd is from scanned slide film.

  150. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawigreen99 View Post
    Anyone running a 100mm fork? Thinking about putting a Tower Pro on mine but don't know if the 510mm A-C height will slow things down
    I'm on the same page than you... I think I'll try this by next week...

    I,ve same fork...

  151. #351
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    I'm running a 100mm X-Fusion slide RL2 and I have really enjoyed it.

  152. #352
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    Can you please post pictures of it?.

    Does your fork have tapered tube?. Does Kona headset need anything additional or can we swap the fork and ride?

    Thanks!!!

  153. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Gen View Post
    Can you please post pictures of it?.

    Does your fork have tapered tube?. Does Kona headset need anything additional or can we swap the fork and ride?

    Thanks!!!
    Sure thing just have to upload the pics off my phone.

    It's a 1 1/8" but I swapped the headset to a Cane Creek 40 series. You would need to swap the crown race from the stock fork.

    For a tapered tube you would need to buy the correct headset lowers.

  154. #354
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    I have swapped some more parts off since these were taken.

  155. #355
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    Are you using a 15mm axle or standard qr with your Slide fork? Also, what size frame is that, how tall are you?

  156. #356
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    It's a QR on a 19" frame. I'm 5'11" with a 33" inseam. Disclaimer on the picture is the seat was lowered so it would lay down in the van.

  157. #357
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    2010 vs 2013. Anyone with opinions on the difference in the ride?
    I have a L 2010 Unit frame that I built up w/ my own parts.
    I have ridden it with a WB magic 100mm, rigid Kona P2, and currently Fusion Slide (qr), always ss. All great, I love my bike.
    Just wondering.

  158. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    Sure thing just have to upload the pics off my phone.

    It's a 1 1/8" but I swapped the headset to a Cane Creek 40 series. You would need to swap the crown race from the stock fork.

    For a tapered tube you would need to buy the correct headset lowers.
    Thank you very much for your answer.... It is cristal clear ;-).

    My Tower Fork was cut to 17.5mm, so I think that replacing only the lower headset will not be enough and I'll need to change the full headset, as stock FSA top cup is too large....

    I like Unit look with suspension fork......

  159. #359
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    Hi.

    I have a question to which I did not find a definite answer: what is the rear tire clearance of 2013 Kona Unit? With examples, if possible as I am not very familiar with 29ers (only with track/road bikes, and of late fat bikes).

    Thanks in advance!

  160. #360
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    I'm using a 2.3 Specialized Purgatory on the rear right now. It has good clearance almost slammed forward in the sliders.

  161. #361
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  162. #362
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    2013 Kona Unit-bike.jpg

    Anyone else do this to their chain ring?

  163. #363
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    Nope I swapped mine to Blackspire mono veloce chainrings.

  164. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceboxsteve View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bike.jpg 
Views:	487 
Size:	84.8 KB 
ID:	834866

    Anyone else do this to their chain ring?
    nope. time for a surly. the last chainring you'll ever have to buy.

    rog

  165. #365
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    Please disregard this post.
    Last edited by Flatlyne; 09-27-2013 at 09:20 AM. Reason: wrong thread

  166. #366
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    Which cog do i need guys?
    This:
    Drivetrain | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes (Casette cog)

    or this:
    Drivetrain | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes (Fixed cog)

    cheers.
    Tyler

  167. #367
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    Cassette style is what you need.

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
    Crap! I'm still wanting to know about converting the stock wheelset to tubeless. Do you need Stan's 29er All Mountain or XC. I believe it would be the All Mountain.
    I am running the 2011, i managed tubeless even with furious fred but it was a biyatch to set-up with 3 layers of roval rim tape. What helps it to turn the tyres inside out and/or inflate them on the rim with tubes so they naturally try and hug the rim, and everything spotlessly clean. when i tired to remount after 2 years it was impossible and picked up some mavic wheels.

    the new 2014 unit comes with tubeless compatible rims

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by that guy again View Post
    Um... no. Even if you can find a nice 29er fork now with a straight steerer, good luck finding one in a few years. The world has moved on.
    what? you can still find quill stems decades on... besides, this bike is steel, and as such flexes when you push it: I do not see the point of an overly stiff head tube when I bought a rigid steel bike for the compliance, and when railing it I can feel the frame and fork twitch (and me smile!). every time else the bike goes exactly where you point it to the point of being able to choose which stone you are going to flick off the side of your tyre, so not really seeing the point. Having said that, the flexibility in choice of fork is good, and if your other bike is a full sus carbon with taper steerer like mine is, then being able to swap forks is a bonus???

  170. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGABIGD View Post
    Anyone know what the Unit weighs? And has anyone put a carbon fork on one?
    I have not put a carbon fork on, but have swapped the wheels out for mavic crossmax and the crank for XO and it feels as light as my carbon stumpie (very sub 10kg)

  171. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by cborrman View Post
    I am running the 2011, i managed tubeless even with furious fred but it was a biyatch to set-up with 3 layers of roval rim tape. What helps it to turn the tyres inside out and/or inflate them on the rim with tubes so they naturally try and hug the rim, and everything spotlessly clean. when i tired to remount after 2 years it was impossible and picked up some mavic wheels.

    the new 2014 unit comes with tubeless compatible rims

    I converted them and then had a custom wheel set built using Frequency i23 rims laced to Paul hubs.

  172. #372
    leg
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyttyra View Post
    Hi.

    I have a question to which I did not find a definite answer: what is the rear tire clearance of 2013 Kona Unit? With examples, if possible as I am not very familiar with 29ers (only with track/road bikes, and of late fat bikes).

    Thanks in advance!
    running 2,4 maxxis ardent front and back tubeless on crest rims. width is no problem. diameter could become a problem, when the sliding back is in full front position. the ardent gets extremly close to the seat tube!

  173. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by gilly_mtb View Post
    Cassette style is what you need.
    Hey guys, I spoke to the Kona tech about adding a Surly cog and got the following response;

    "Our hub has a special short freehub body that lets you swap in a range of traditional cogs. That just might be a bit too wide.

    I'd ask them if they've ever seen one on a Unit.

    Happy Trails!"

    I thought I'd ask here if anyone is running a surly cog before I contact Surly.
    This is the cog here:
    Drivetrain | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes

    Cheers guys,
    Tyler

  174. #374
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    love how the stock 32-18 ratio fits the sliders nice and forward. any other ratios out there get it even more forward? is 32-19 too tight?

    rog

  175. #375
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    I'm running 32/22 and kits almost slammed. 32/20 was too far back but 34/20 was slammed forward. That was using a KMC Z610 chain with Master link and no half links.

  176. #376
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    2013 Kona Unit-mw.jpg

    Literally just need a $2 part to finish my build but could not wait to post.

    Everyone here already knows this, but the Kona Unit is for real! The geometry is perfectly dialed for my riding (rolling hills and rooty trails on the East Coast). Not twitchy, not slow, not floppy. The most intuitive handling on any 29er I've been on.

    A few quick thoughts about upgrades:

    -Stock wheels were the worst. Rear hubs did not spin worth a damn. Maybe I got a bum component. Luckily, I had some alternative wheelsets just waiting.

    -I really liked the stock cockpit components. Really solid and good performance all around. However, I loved the bike much more after putting on carbon bars and ESI chunky grips. It took the sting off. Carbon seatpost also helped but the carbon bars were a much better upgrade.

    -P2 was fine. However, the Niner carbon fork plus tubeless makes it feel like I'm running a short suspension fork. So light, I feel like I'm cheating. Really amazing.

    The P2 and other stock Kona cockpit parts are getting reassigned to a 29er commuter. They will get lots of miles.

    Now I just need to slap on something to protect against cable rub on the headtube.

    2013 Kona Unit-lh.jpg

  177. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    love how the stock 32-18 ratio fits the sliders nice and forward. any other ratios out there get it even more forward? is 32-19 too tight?

    rog
    I run 32x19 with the sliders slammed forward. No problems. SRAM 9-speed powerlink chain; no half-links of anything. Just have to put the chain on by turning the cranks.

  178. #378
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    32-22 is close too. 32-20 makes the chainstay length too long IMHO
    Last edited by fer83; 10-02-2013 at 03:27 PM.

  179. #379
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    Is anyone running a Surly cog? The Kona tech doesn't know if it will fit.

  180. #380
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    I was, with no issues. Just switched to lunar cogs and have been very happy.

  181. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teetshorn View Post
    I was, with no issues. Just switched to lunar cogs and have been very happy.
    Sweet man, thanks very much. Reps

  182. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatlyne View Post
    Is anyone running a Surly cog? The Kona tech doesn't know if it will fit.
    best cogs/rings ever! it'll fit fer sure. i'll be getting an 18t surly once I wear out the stock one.

    kona unit 13' best handling bike in the universe for reelz yo!

    rog

  183. #383
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    I picked up a barely used '13 unit today. My first 29er and my first single speed. I can't wait to ride it tomorrow. Feels real good and lighter than I expected.

  184. #384
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    Hi @leg,
    what's stem and hadlebar you have in your kona?
    Thanks

  185. #385
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    2013 Kona Unit-unit.jpg

  186. #386
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    I am running a Surly 20 with no problems !!

  187. #387
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    2014 Unit 19" Stock first trip into the woods:)

    2013 Kona Unit-20131101_083746.jpg2013 Kona Unit-20131101_083801.jpg

  188. #388
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    Wow! Unit 2014 looks great!

  189. #389
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    I recently built up a 2013 kona unit. This bike rides nice. I wish I could give a better handling description but the bike just seems to disappear under me. The handling is very neutral, not too twitchey but not slow turning either. The unit was a lot of fun to ride, very easy to push the bike when you needed to. The rigid fork is a bit rough but that is just the southwest desert terrain.

    I had a big unit and that bike was fast and light it you had to stay on top of it to stay in control. It was always reminding you that you turned a little to far with that course correction. The twitcheyness wasn't bad, just always there.

    Pics to come.

  190. #390
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    I have been using these fatter Gusset double six ones no probs:

    Gusset Double Six Single Speed Sprocket | Chain Reaction Cycles

  191. #391
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    32-19 fits great, right at shortest chainlength, that was with kmc 9SL chain anyway

  192. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdonks View Post
    I recently built up a 2013 kona unit. This bike rides nice. I wish I could give a better handling description but the bike just seems to disappear under me. The handling is very neutral, not too twitchey but not slow turning either. The unit was a lot of fun to ride, very easy to push the bike when you needed to. The rigid fork is a bit rough but that is just the southwest desert terrain.

    I had a big unit and that bike was fast and light it you had to stay on top of it to stay in control. It was always reminding you that you turned a little to far with that course correction. The twitcheyness wasn't bad, just always there.

    Pics to come.
    Funny. I went in other direction. Have been on a 2013 Unit and am building a Big Unit !

  193. #393
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    I just received the Thomson carbon flat bar. Wasn't too sure about them but after I installed them and rode them around a bit I really loved them with my new 70mm Aka stem. That mount is a Barfly 3.0 for my Garmin. I kept having the O-rings break and I didn't like the forward facing mounts. I saw that this one was designed to come back over the stem and for $15 I took a chance. No trail time yet but so far I like it.

  194. #394
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    For all the people using a Niner carbon fork was the geometry/handling any different than the stock P2?

  195. #395
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    2013 Kona Unit

    No noticeable diff in geometry. Very noticeable diff in performance due to increased stiffness, large drop in weight off the front end, and much improved vibration damping.

  196. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    No noticeable diff in geometry. Very noticeable diff in performance due to increased stiffness, large drop in weight off the front end, and much improved vibration damping.
    Those all sound like pluses to me. I wish they still made the straight steer in orange.

    The cost of the tapered fork (RDO) and associated (required) hardware to accommodate for it seem somewhat prohibitive.

  197. #397
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    I have to disagree. Rode the P2 for a while and now have the Niner fork.

    P2 is way stiffer. Not that the Niner is flexy, its just that the P2 is well known to super stiff fork and can beat you up. To me a bit of flex in a rigid setup is considered a plus. Makes the ride a little more comfortable

    The reduction in weight is noticeable.

  198. #398
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    Cornering hard with the P2, I would often get rotor rub due to fork flex. This happens much less frequently with the niner carbon. On drops, the P2 flexed noticeably on landing. The niner has no such give.

    I agree the P2 beats you up more. But, the way I perceive it, it is not due to the fork being stiffer. It is due to the fact that steel does not have the vibration absorption of carbon fiber.

    Either way, if I read your post correctly, we are agreeing that the niner is a better ride than the P2.

  199. #399
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    the ritchey carbon fork is wicked light and matches the geo to the p2 in every way. IF I ever decide to get rid of my p2, then..........

    no complaints with the p2. my elbows, wrists, and shoulders are the ultimate suspension

    rog

  200. #400
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    What is the stock stem length on 2014 L size?

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