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What kind of bike do I need?

4K views 42 replies 18 participants last post by  choppages 
#1 ·
This is a complete newb post, so I apologize for my limited knowledge. Just need some expert advice/help here. I ride paved and unpaved rail trails and do not mind riding a little rough terrain with climbs and drops (sloping, not steep/vertical), so I feel I need a hardtail mountain bike. I have tried a hybrid bike on unpaved (hard packed) rail trail, and know that is not something that will work for me. Today, I went to a mountain bike park, and discovered that riding downhill on foot-wide tracks is also not my cup of tea (at this age). So, I know I do not need a full suspension/DH bike either. Now, given my style of riding, would entry-level 29er hardtail (with suntour fork) costing 500-600 bucks be sufficient, or do I "need" a better fork (RockShok) which cost in 1K+ range?

Another issue is about sizing. With the kind of riding I do, would a medium or a large suit me better? I am 5'10.5" with 34" inseam. I have been told (by friends and also read on this forum) that for mountain biking I should get medium, but all the local shops I have been to here, have put me on 19" frame (large). Surprisingly, an XL frame seemed most comfortable (in the parking lot), but the shop people say no way I can "fit" on XL frame. So I am really confused.

Am I correct in my assessment that I need a hardtail? Is there any other type that I should be looking at? Any insights to the above questions would be appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
Not sure if this will clear much up besides a few of your misconceptions. First full suspension does not mean only down hill, in fact full suspension work better in most instances climbing than hard tails. As a fellow new rider I would look at models with air shocks and solid hydraulic brakes, the shifters and derailers at this price point will be OK and will work OK too.

You will find advice on fit is ride what's comfortable but at 5'10" you solidly in the 17" medium frame size for most manufacturers. My guess is that something in the stem and handlebars on the XL fit you well and you should look at that.
 
#3 ·
A bike with a Suntour 'X' fork is bike path unless it is a 14 or 15 with a hydraulic lockout(rare). That means it will also have fixed or adjustable rebound damping. That means it won't pogo and bounce your hands off the bars if you ride it over multiple bumps at speed, usually going downhill. Those kind of trails seem too much now. But with a good fork and a few practice runs on the brakes you get hooked. So things change from what you are figuring now. You can put a $200 fork on a lower priced bike if you need it. Or shop around for a used bike. Often you find a mostly unused Suntour hardtail that just needs a good fork. You can also spend the money now and ride whatever you come across. The cheapest new may be a 14 at an end of season discount of 35-40% off. But get your correct size. Inseam is actual not pant size. With 34", if true, you should have a short upper torso. You should look at reach so you are comfortable riding around with your fit between the seat and bars.
 
#4 ·
I am 5 10. I come from a road ride background,. I've been fitted for a road bike, and use that as my gold standard. With years of experience I "interpret" that into the mountain bike space which means I ride a medium (18 inch frame, with a 23.5 TT).

So you are clearly in the Medium space and I might say, depending upon the geometry could go do a Large pretty easily. These terms are very subjective as each manufacture sizing is different. Spend a little time making sure you're on the right sized bike. It's a big mistake if you do not.

You failed to mention what you want to do in your pursuit of mountain biking. It's kinda chicken and egg, but I would guess with some trail riding, and some rail trails, a XC hardtail will do you just fine. If you want to spend only 5-600 bucks, that's OK, but understand you're going in at the VERY bottom of the market. However if this is something you really WANT to do, and have several opportunities to ride, then you might be well served to spend a little more as others have suggested, perhaps into the 1000 range.

You've already started doing some research. Stay with that tactic. It's super hard to know what type of bike to buy, when you really don't know much about bikes. That is greatly complicated by the industry which has grown greatly in the last 10 years, and has fractured into a host of different disciplines. There are at least 10 different types of mountain bikes, and 100 different manufactures and thousands of models. Add to that wheel size, and I don't know how anyone could decide WHAT bike to purchase.

The top end of mountain bikes have become astronomical in their price range. The great thing about that is you can still get a really good bike in the lower price points. You didn't really indicate a budget but as with all things, you get what you pay for. If you can spend a little more, do so.

Bottom line, a hard tail will probably do just fine, for quite a while. However don't rule out looking at (and riding) an entry level full suspension bike. Expect to spend 1500 for it, but understand that chances are, it will handle any terrain you'll want to ride, and serve you well for probably 2-5 years easy. Regardless of your approach I repeat these rules time and time again.

Buy a bike that fits.
Buy the bike you can afford.
Buy the bike you like.

Good Luck. Have fun.
 
#5 ·
OK. As far as fit goes...I am a little over 5'11" but still under 6 feet. When I got my new Yeti I was on the bubble of large and medium. I went with medium because after 30 years on bikes I know my riding style. When it comes to frames that are sized in inches the difference in 18 and 19 is not that much. My old full squish was an 18" and my hardtail was 19".

In your case, if you are at the fine line between sizes I would go smaller. Just my .02
 
#7 ·
WA-CO's post covers it nicely. I did some research, but ended up trusting a few buddies' advice. I ended up with a nice full suspension XC bike and it is plenty for all the trails near me in socal. XC bikes don't seem to get a lot of love around here, but I really do appreciate the lightness especially when climbing. I did spend WAY more than I wanted to but I decided to go all in and have no regrets so far.
 
#8 ·
The one big advantage of getting a hardtail is that you'll get better quality parts for a given amount of money. For road and light trail use a hardtail is fine and I would rather have a better fork than a full-suspension bike with a cheaper one.

Most of the stuff on a bike just works. Cheap shifters, transmissions etc might not be as light or durable but they work fine. The big exception is forks. A good fork works a lot better than a cheap one so I'd try to get the best fork you can. Sure, an air fork is lighter and more adjustable but a spring does the job. The really important part is the damping.

Size is a personal thing and not all medium bikes are the same size, you just have to try them. Generally speaking bigger bike will fell better on the road and a shorter one better off it. I prefer a short bike myself. It feels more chuckable and direct. You could maybe hire a couple of bikes and try them on the routes you use and see how they feel.
 
#9 ·
This is a complete newb post, so I apologize
This is the internet! Never apologize!
Just need some expert advice/help here.
Don't know about the 'expert' part but I'll try.
I ride paved and unpaved rail trails and do not mind riding a little rough terrain with climbs and drops Today, I went to a mountain bike park, and discovered that riding downhill on foot-wide tracks is also not my cup of tea (at this age). So, I know I do not need a full suspension/DH bike either.
Personality quiz: will your appetite change with your ability and what you equipment can do?
Now, given my style of riding, would entry-level 29er hardtail (with suntour fork) costing 500-600 bucks be sufficient, or do I "need" a better fork (RockShok) which cost in 1K+ range?
This relates to the above question as well as your pocketbook. Will you be happier with an extra $400 in your pocket, or will you be happier with a more comfortable, capable, and satisfying ride?
Another issue is about sizing. With the kind of riding I do, would a medium or a large suit me better? I am 5'10.5" with 34" inseam.
Medium.
Am I correct in my assessment that I need a hardtail? Is there any other type that I should be looking at? Any insights to the above questions would be appreciated.
If you've got the dough and think you're going to grow into the sport, you might want a FS. Similarly, if you are looking for something more comfortable, FS is great at soaking up bumps and lumps.
 
#10 ·
Thank you everyone, for great replies. When I did my research, this is what I "wanted":

1. Wheel size 29"
2. Hydraulic disc brakes
3. 3 X 9, 3 X 10, or 2 X 10 crankset
4. At least 100mm travel air fork

I know I can get these features under 1K easily. I can spend 1K (or more), but I guess my question is "can I justify spending 1K based on need and not want"? Coming from a background of a Roadmaster (Walmart) bike that lasted 15 years and cost me only $70 at that time, I am not sure... I understand completely as people have mentioned above that if you love the bike, you will ride it more often and grow more into the sport. And may be I never grew into the sport because I always felt cramped on that bike. I bought a larger size Diamondback hybrid, but I hate that even more! Hence my dilemma....

I have come across someone on CL who is selling a brand new 2014 Giant Revel 29er for $300. I know that has Suntour fork, only 3 X 8 crankset, and cable operated disc brakes. So I have been going back and forth with the thought that this one may suit my present "needs" but not my "wants". Is it worth to buy this for now and upgrade the fork later on? There is another one on CL that is selling Jamis Durango (2011?) for $200 in almost new condition. This has 26" wheels and similar specs as Giant Revel. For the price, it seems amazing, but again, do I look short term or buy for long-term?

This is what I am having trouble with. If I buy an expensive bike and find that I don't "grow" further, I would feel I wasted my money in buying something that I am not using to full potential. On the other hand, if I buy a so-so bike for now and wish to try new things, I might resent that I did not buy a more capable bike. Phew....

Once again, thanks for all your help. Waiting to hear more to come to a solid decision.
 
#11 ·
You don't have a problem. A 1k bike isn't that good. So you don't have a problem.
A $200 Epicon can upgrade the Revel. $85 Deore m615 brakes will be better than what's on the 1k. $275 will get you 10sp SLX/XT Shadow+ better than the 1k.
You're still under.
( prices are Ribble 10% sale with a Jenson match. Not available everyday.)
 
#12 ·
I'll ask again - how old are you and how tight is money? In the grand scheme of things, a bike is both crazy expensive (for what it is) and stupid cheap (for the time you enjoy it).

I recently spent a month of handwringing over a 1400 bike. I knew from the first test ride that I wanted it, but I still took a deep breath, stepped back, counted to ten, considered my options, and then pulled the trigger. My other bike, purchased nearly two years ago, was five times the emotional handwringing (for 1.5x the price) because I'd been out of the saddle for so long.

Have I ever felt a moment's remorse? Damn straight: That I didn't do it sooner.

If 1K will leave you in the poorhouse, don't stretch. Buy a decent used bike for 500 and run with it. My 12yo is on a $300 Fuji, my 9yo on a $95 Novarara... you don't have to go broke to get on the trail.

But if you can afford it, you'll never ever regret buying something nice. Yes, you'd feel silly riding a 10K downhill bike in the park, so there are limits.

Hydro brakes are a must-have in my book. And a good fork is second only to good frame geometry.

I imagine there's enough of us knuckleheads that if you provided a budget and posted your closest local CL, you'd get a dozen solid recommendations.
 
#13 ·
Kyle, I am 45. I must say you have hit the nail on the head with your analogy of riding a 10K DH bike in a park. That is how I do not want to feel by spending more than a grand only to ride a rail trail! Can I afford to buy a bike for a grand? Yes. But is that justifiable? That is the part I am unsure. I know most people tend to think that if you can afford it, buy it, but that is unfortunately not how I think (which makes it all the more difficult for me)...

I also think that part of the problem is that I haven't found a bike yet that I didn't want to return after the test ride.

I am in NH, so nh.craigslist.org/bia should bring you right to the page. Thanks.
 
#14 ·
You're not too old to totally kill it. Get an upper end XC FS. Maybe an AM if your local trails and personality allow.

Trust me. I started my search at 39 just like you... too old too broke (aka cheapskate) never get my money's worth. Started at 500 HT, stretched to 1000 then to 2000 FS. Never been happier.

Picked up my second bike a week or two ago for variety. It gets in your blood. Wondering where my personal brave/intelligent breakpoint is every time I ride.

You will not regret the money spent as long as you hit the trails and really engage the hobby/sport. I'm as cost conscious as anyone, and already plotting my next purchase at 3K +/- (probably 4500 when I'm done, haha).

Drink the koolaid. It's friggin delicious. And it's good for you (really, best shape of my life here at 41).
 
#15 ·
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the Revel a hybrid? I looked at one myself, but it seemed like the components, especially the wheels, wouldn't hold up off road. Is the Revel comparable (frame wise) to a Talon or other mountain model? Would a set of good rims make it usable off road? Forget the fork...I know everyone says any bike that has a suntour fork needs an upgrade. The Revel I looked at had 80mm of travel, compared to the Talon's 100mm. So how does it stack up? Is it worth getting a 2014 Revel for $400, putting a set of double wall rims on it and go ride?
 
#16 ·
Koreytm, that's a good question that only experts here can answer (and I hope they do). I couldn't get the Revel, someone beat me to it... Didn't go to see Jamis as it is 26er...

Look at what this guy did, changing the hybrid to more mountain bike-like. Is this a good deal at 850?: 2014 Trek DS 8.5 duel sport (Gary Fisher Collection)

I found a LBS selling new 2012 Trek Superfly AL Elite (GF) for 1450. With taxes and cheap pedals, it would easily hit 1600. Is this a good deal? It also has 2014 Trek Stache 7 for 1500 as closeout which would be 1650 out of the door. I have also considered Airborne Seeker for 930 and Goblin for 1300. Any of these worth it for my kind of riding and growing into sport? Can't believe I went from 600 to 1600+ though...

Another question, is it acceptable to give a counter offer to an LBS or will they just throw you out if you do so? :)

Thanks again.
 
#18 ·
Do you really want to stay on rail trails? It seems like your interest in trying new terrain and exploring the sport could determine your purchase range. But even if you are unsure, why limit yourself?

I hadn't been biking much for ten years till' this summer, and originally went in hoping to get a good bike for five or six hundred bucks. In the used market you probably can do ok, but it was obvious from just parking lot rides that I wanted a nicer fork at least. In the end I eI spent $1300 on a good sale 2013 HT 29er model bike, and haven't regretted it an ounce. With that being said I have taken that bike on every trail I can get to, technical or otherwise. I am 38 and hope to be riding for 20+ years, and there are plenty of riders around here who are riding in their sixties.

If it won't set you back then I say get the nicer bike. It will not be strange to be riding a 1k bike around the local trails, it's not the same as riding a 10k bike in the park.

I like the advice of an earlier poster; make sure the bike fits foremost, then consider the fork, then everything else. Seems like a solid approach. Also ride as many bikes as you can! I am starting to save for a fs bike, and I am going to borrow, rent and demo as many as I can in the coming year. =)
 
#19 ·
Thanks DB, I believe I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel now.

So guys, I really need input on the 2012 Trek Superfly AL Elite and 2014 Trek Stache 7 for 1450 and 1499, respectively.

Also, I just found out that a LBS that stocks Giant, Scott and Santa Cruz is having an end of summer tent sale starting tomorrow. Don't know what would be there, but any good ones that I should keep an eye out for?
 
#20 ·
I, personally, am not a fan of Trek bikes, especially at their lower price points. That being said, if I had to choose between the two, I would go with the Stache due to the 120mm of travel and the 2x10 drive train.

Santa Cruz makes great bikes. So if you can find a good deal on one of those, I would pick one up.

But... This is where I am going to give you a great piece of advice. Go test ride some bikes. LOTS of bikes. Find a demo day in your area and go ride a ton of different types of bikes on some actual dirt trails. This can tell you a lot about how much travel you want, what type of geometry fits you best, etc. It is really hard for any of us to tell you which bike would be best because we are not YOU.

So go to the summer tent sale and ride some bikes! :-D
 
#21 ·
I started on a 400$ bike around 30 years ago ,in less that a year I was on a 1000$ bike ,9 months later I was on a 1800$ bike(used) that I rode for 7 or 8 years and still have. My next bike was over 3000$ that I didn't like much .I've spent more money on bikes since then and never thought about the price of the bike after spending the money.
 
#22 ·
Thanks guys, I feel I am getting a clearer picture after reading all your responses.

So I went to the tent sale today. Tried a BMC large hardtail, Scott medium hardtail and a Santa Cruz full suspension large (I believe). Those were the only 29ers he had. Scott had Suntour fork, Shimano brakes and Deore deraileurs, and was for $950. Felt okay on Santa Cruz too ($1500), but it was the BMC that I found the most awesome, possessing all the features I want (air shock, rebound damping, lockout, hydraulic brakes etc.) and ...... wait for this ......., all for $1000 (it was 50% off)! Had Avid elixir 1 brakes and Deore deraileurs. Why didn't I get it? Because it was large and my arms were almost completely locked out while riding it. Unfortunately, that was the only piece he had... :-( He also indicated that the stem could not be shortened further because it was already pretty short....

Although I did not get a bike, I did experience firsthand and learned what all of you have indicated: medium is the right size for me.

The search continues...
 
#25 ·
Where are you in NH? (I'm in MA) What bike park did you check out? There's a good bit of variety out there as far as trails go, so though you might not want to venture out on narrow technical singletrack at this point, you've probably got options for riding something not as tricky, but still more interesting than rail trails.

You've really gotta ask yourself how much of an effort your going to put in to get out and ride on a regular basis before deciding how much to spend. I agree that if you're determined to really give it shot and get out there and work your way into trail riding, it makes sense to spend a grand or so. If you really don't see yourself venturing off the rail-trail type terrain, I wouldn't though. Specially on something new that depreciates faster than a used car.

NE is an awesome place to ride. Tons of trails and a bunch of good folks riding and building them. I'm a couple years older than you are and have been at it for a good while; don't let age be an issue. My dad just built himself and pretty sick FS 29er for his 70th b-day and either rides or does trail work 4 or 5 days a week. I've had my ass handed to me by guys 10, 20, and even 30 years older than I am. Riding bikes is one of the few sports that you can really enjoy and progress at almost regardless of age.

If you really think it's something you want to get into and venture out onto 'real' mtb trails, I personally would be looking at higher end, late model used 26" FS bikes. Good deals out there, and we've got a lot of roots and rocks. Decent suspension and a overall nicer components will do more to make riding enjoyable for a beginner than bigger wheels IMO, at least on the type of terrain that's typical in the area. Not that you can't have a good time on a HT, I have and do, but I think FS really does pay off around here riding at a recreational level.

Random CL stuff...

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4662194271.html

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4602506535.html

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4600044108.html

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4615989216.html

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4614277135.html

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4615469175.html
 
#26 ·
I'm in the Manchester area. I went to the Highland Park near Tilton (in Nortfield), where you can go up the mountain on a bike lift and travel downhill. While I won't mind this kind of biking for a short period of time when I am out, I know I can't do it exclusively.

As for the time and effort I can put in, it is not much right now. I know that this is a chicken-egg question, as WA-CO said. From what I understand from the posts written above, if I get a bike for just rail trails, I would probably stay on rail trails forever. However, if I have a more capable bike, I might want to try out new things. And the more I try, the more I will grow into it. I can say this much that I might never do the stuff that many videos show on youtube though! :)

Thanks for the links on the bike, I will check them out.
 
#27 ·
Cool - Highland is a great operation. Definitely a lot different than what you're going to find on the regular trails in your area though.

Are you riding the rail trail that runs east from Lake Massebesic? The FOMBA trails that connect off it are great. These would give you a really good idea what to expect from more typical 'XC' trails in the area.

FOMBA - Trail Map

FOMBA is also an excellent group to get involved with if you really want to get into the sport; you can learn a ton from the folks there.
 
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