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Building my DHR

3K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  Elfbkr50 
#1 ·
Without unnecessarily blowing money, and building it properly, what kind of build should I start working toward on a dh bike. I've spent 10 years riding and have a good understanding about what I need for x country stuff, but the dh world is sort of a new realm for me. I've been to whistler on 4 different occasions and rented their Konas, but don't really have a handle on what should be going into this thing, where I should spend the money, and build a bike that I'm not needing to upgrade in a year.

Sorry. Kind of vague, but it seems like there is a lot of knowledgeable riders on this forum and wanted to capitalize on it.
 
#2 ·
how much money you want to spend....do you want lite or durable you want

pretty much everyone agrees saint brakes and cranks
The Canfield Crampon pedals are durable and very lite

MRP G2 chain guide

This is what I like (lite without giving up durability)
DVO Emerald fork
Crane Creek Double barrell shock
Sram XO shifter X9 derailler
mavic 823's and hadley hubs
SDG I beam seat post and seat

my bike weighs just under 36
 
#3 ·
Frame is on the way with a Fox 40, and Fox RCx4 (I think that is the name) rear shock.

Durable. I'd like to keep the build to around 5k, and I'm 3400 in already. Not sure if that is possible. That being said, I would rather spend more and do it right than wish I did later. I've been down that road and ended up spending more in the long run. What's the deal with an I-beam seat? Stronger?

Where is the big place to save weight on a dh bike? I weigh 220, and need durable more than light. It would be nice to not have such a hog though. A little snappier in the technical chunk probably.

Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Frame is on the way with a Fox 40, and Fox RCx4 (I think that is the name) rear shock.

Durable. I'd like to keep the build to around 5k, and I'm 3400 in already. Not sure if that is possible. That being said, I would rather spend more and do it right than wish I did later. I've been down that road and ended up spending more in the long run. What's the deal with an I-beam seat? Stronger?

Where is the big place to save weight on a dh bike? I weigh 220, and need durable more than light. It would be nice to not have such a hog though. A little snappier in the technical chunk probably.

Thanks.
lose weight yourself then get a semi lite wheelset...I love the Hadleys and Mavic 823's and run tubeless but that is like 1000.00....durable...I have been riding mine since 2006 with one rear wheel hoop replaced. love the XO and X9 rear combo for price and smooth shifting...MRP G2 mini.....got to have Saints but cranks 400 and brakes under 500 is a lot....check ebay for deals
 
#5 ·
I weight the same as you and I have the same frame.
My build is as follows:
DHR, large
Boxxer R2C2
Fox RC4
Hope hubs with Flow EX rims
Race Face Sixc cranks
Thomson seat post
Easton carbon 35 bar
Easton 35 stem
Had Formula RO brakes, trying Saint this year
X9 shifter and derailleur (9speed)
shimano DX clip less pedals (sometimes ride with Point 1 podiums)
My bike weighs just under 38lbs. Will be just a hair over 38 when I install the saint brakes. There are no disposable parts on my bike except for my tires that I seem to go through like crazy (Maxxis minions and high rollers).
Everyone has their preference for parts. I would have gone with Hadley hubs (they are on my other bike) but the budget did not allow for them on this build.
I have not had any issues with the Flow EX rims. They are way lighter than Mavic 823, probably not as bombproof though, but I do not notice a difference in stiffness between my older set of wheels (Hadley, 823).
Have fun chosing your parts.
 
#6 ·
So what about crank arm length? Do they run shorter on DH bikes? Seems like the clearance would be a good thing, but when I'm descending I'm parallel to the ground on the cranks anyway.
 
#9 ·
Saint derailluer is bomb proof. Park DAG-2 is worth it's weight in new derailleur hangers :)

Light bicycle carbon rims on your hubs of choice are a good combo as long as you don't ride stupidly low pressures on rocky technical terrain.

Don't buy carbon bars if your gonna ride parks that hang bikes by stem/bars on the gondola.
 
#12 ·
Wheelset is big for weight savings. 823's are great but HEAVY. Azonic outlaws are cheap and durable, but also heavy. I personally have a set of the LB Carbon rims and I would highly recommend them to others, light and strong if used right.

I would go saint for drivetrain as they are more durable. People like saint brakes but my preference is Formula, I have had 5 sets on previous bikes that I sold and all are still working flawlessly.

Cranks, seat, bars are all part of your cockpit and will determine your riding position, choose wisely. The Canfield guys have a new set of cranks that go down to 155 length and have very competitive weights.
 
#13 ·
I'm selling my Hadley/823 wheelset, PM me if you're interested.
Go-Ride nailed it, 165 cranks for the DHR for sure. Descendants, like Extremo recommended, are a good, no frills crank for pretty cheap and the hold up to hard riding and big dudes great.
 
#14 · (Edited)
i think trying to shave weight on your first time dh build is a bit of a waste. You are going to bash the **** out of that bike, so you'll want durable parts, and durable + light = $$$, and you seem to have a budget. I run hope pro 2's with 823s and it is a really durable light maintenance package. If you hunt for deals you can most likely score a set for well under 1000. Brakes I personally prefer hope, but they are heavy and pricy, people seem to be fans of shimano stuff and you can find those cheap. Cranks I cant comment on, I got a set of raceface evolves off pinkbike for 90 bucks shipped, they were beat up but they work. Drive train x9 or saint, cockpit to preference. My bike is a bit on the heavy side, but I know I didn't skimp in the durability department and my bike wont blow up when I do something stupid
 
#15 ·
Thanks for all the input. I agree that spending money on saving weight is needless, but I also don't want a 50lb bike if I can avoid it. I've been to Whistler on 4 different occasions and have had a blast on their rental Kona's. I'm able to ride all of the double black trails with a few sections on some of them that I've said "maybe next trip ". I didn't want to be that guy in a wheelchair, an arm sling, and neck brace I always see in the village. This bike has been an 8 year long daydream, and finally we have a bike park in Alaska to justify having one. I want to do it right, so I really appreciate all the feedback. So far I've settled on Saint Brakes, and a race face cockpit(cranks tbd). Sram X-9 drivetrain, probably an e-thirteen chain guide. Wheelset is my last big choice to make I guess. I'll be racing the bike, but not like a pro or anything. I'm sure heavy is decent there. Are most people running DH bikes tubeless?
 
#16 ·
when i built up my DHR, I moved most of the parts from my highline. After riding it a few times, the first thing I changed were the cranks. Just like others have said here, the dhr is a low bike. I went from 175 to 165 Saints. I picked mine up from Go-Ride, had some on sale. I ride tubeless on on 823's laced to I9 DH hubs. Heavy a$$ wheels, but sturdy.
 
#18 ·
Just to beat a deadhorse the DHR is super low and even with 165 cranks you have to be very careful at times, but you will love the bike in the turns. My sugestions for wheels are the new novatec wheelset, my friend has been using them for awhile now, or you can take advantage of go-rides wheelset sale, they are a DT swiss hub and rim combo for $400. I personally didn't like the RC4 on the DHR and moved over to a cane creek double barrel.
 
#19 ·
I don't know what people look at when they pedal but I ran 170s on my dw dhr since the frame first came out with zero problems. Pedal where you can, don't where you can't. 5mm isn't huge and short cranks feel silly. I've got 165s on it since last summer but I'm going back.

It really doesn't matter that much. Either size is fine.
 
#20 ·
For cranks I guess I want them to work and feel right while I'm descending. Pedaling sections are typically short on dh proper trails. I'm not planning on riding this thing up mountains. So maybe the shorter ones for clearance. I'm 6'2'' if that makes a difference. Seems like the further apart your feet are when descending with them parallel to the ground would give you more control over the bike.

Should be here this week. Seems like forever before the lifts are open though. Whistler in July.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the input guys. Frame has arrived with the Fox 40 and Fox RC4. Frame is in Raw, and I think instead of putting some sort of jelly bean color on it, I'll keep it mean looking with black stuff.

Saint Brakes
Saint Shifter/Derailleur
Zee Cranks
Race Face Cockpit
E-thirteen chain guide

Hadley or Hope hubs
WTB ST rims (any beta on those?) Wanted indestructible, and they seem pretty stout.
Running it tubeless.

Any thoughts or suggestions. All are welcome.
Thanks
 
#23 ·
Thanks for the input guys. Frame has arrived with the Fox 40 and Fox RC4. Frame is in Raw, and I think instead of putting some sort of jelly bean color on it, I'll keep it mean looking with black stuff.

Saint Brakes
Saint Shifter/Derailleur
Zee Cranks
Race Face Cockpit
E-thirteen chain guide

Hadley or Hope hubs
WTB ST rims (any beta on those?) Wanted indestructible, and they seem pretty stout.
Running it tubeless.

Any thoughts or suggestions. All are welcome.
Thanks
Solid build choices. Maybe swap the Zee cranks for some Truvativ Descendants. The Descendants are plenty strong and the lightest aluminum crank on the market, can be had for around $100 if you look hard enough, always check eBay. And I would get Hadley's over Hope, moar engagement is moar better, I am biased though. No idea on the WTB rims, can't go wrong with Mavic 823. Also, raw is the best color! Here's my raw DHR, polished it with some mag wheel polish. Also have new wheelset, Mavic 823 w/Hadleys.

Bicycle Tire Wheel Land vehicle Bicycle wheel
 
#24 ·
Oh My GOD!!! That is sick!!!!! Just wheel polish does that? I should get on that before I build it up. The shop I work with is a very small company. He deals Turners from a small shop, and does build prices on the parts. I can't shop around in good faith and bring him the parts to throw on there as he loses some profit from that.

What's a good tire to start with. Alaska dh will be a little wet, real rocky. I'll be in Whistler too. Is it worth having tires to changeover for such different conditions? Seems like two sets a season isn't unreasonable considering the abuse they take.
 
#25 ·
Oh My GOD!!! That is sick!!!!! Just wheel polish does that? I should get on that before I build it up. The shop I work with is a very small company. He deals Turners from a small shop, and does build prices on the parts. I can't shop around in good faith and bring him the parts to throw on there as he loses some profit from that.

What's a good tire to start with. Alaska dh will be a little wet, real rocky. I'll be in Whistler too. Is it worth having tires to changeover for such different conditions? Seems like two sets a season isn't unreasonable considering the abuse they take.
Yes, I used Mothers Mag Aluminum wheel polish. That took all of an hour to do, and I wasn't being particularly meticulous about it. You can get it looking pretty incredible. Just grab any old cloth and polish away. And having two sets of tires can be handy, incase you get a tear in the sidewall of one, you have a back up. Maxxis Minion DHF is the benchmark for downhill tires. I run them on my DHR and my trail bike. The Ardent's in the picture are okay in a pinch, definitely nothing like the Minion DHF.
 
#26 ·
Mark,


The build looks good!

My personal taste is running for running tubes at Alyeska, too much shale/rocks there, and had too many sidewalls taken out by jagged features. I just run the Kenda DH tubes, and have not flatted there, even with sidewalls ripped out. I would probably go tubeless at whistler.

I have found that Minions DHF's ST's work well, I prefer them at Whistler hands down, and usually snag a new set for the trip down. Usually end up with two Minion DHF's or Minion DHF front and High Roller on the rear.

Although the Specialized Butcher is my favorite at Aly which runs a tad wider, Minions seem to run a tad small on the width. The Butchers to me provided that good bite for the loose conditions at Alyeska, just a tad more than the Minions probably due to width. Super Tacky & ultra soft compounds will get murdered quickly in the rocks at Alyeska. If your pocketbook dont mind it stay with the tacky's....


Im interested in trying the High Roller 2's, but I have too many tires laying around with good tread to warrant a new purchase.
 
#27 ·
Seems like Alyeska can open early. Trip to Whistler in mid july won't be soon enough. I'm hoping to make a couple trips there a summer after I get this thing paid off. With Chair 6 burning up there, should be a much more fun venue yet. I'm looking forward to watching that place progress.

Minions it is, and I'll set the rims up so they can be tubeless, and see how it goes. Thanks for the info. Should be built up pretty soon and I'll get some pics up.
 
#28 ·
Just a few more bits...

It's been 8 years since my first Whistler bike park trip, and with a growing park in AK and quick flight to BC I could finally justify it. Here it is. Thanks for the beta on getting this thing going.

Hope Brakes-Vented rotors
Hadley Hubs DT Swiss FR600
Zee shifter/derailleur/Cranks
Race Face Cockpit
DHXRC4, Fox 40
Minion tubeless tires
Spank pedals (Funny, that's the add splashed all over this page.)
 

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#30 ·
Now, it's done.

Home and in my possession. Pulled the seat up to spin around the woods behind my house. Not that fun back there, but I can tell this thing is going to mob when it is pointed downhill. I'll take it on a hike up the mountain behind my house today and get a ride report. Our park opens in 2 weeks, Whistler trip next month. Thanks for the help with build info. 8 years after my first whistler trip, I'm finally on my own sled.
 

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