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Strongest AM Frame?

4K views 29 replies 20 participants last post by  OSM 
#1 ·
Coming from a DH DJ and BMX background, I am looking for a AM bike that can take jumps and has a rear end that is strong. Figure I would post here to avoid any 29erism BS.
 
#3 ·
Looking for latest geometry, 66° head angle or so, great climber and descender. My Trail bike for years now has been a 575, but it is time for something burlier. I have been thru frames and a couple rear ends. I ride it hard like DH bike, jump it like a DJ. Looked at the Banshee Rune, not sure yet. Was thinking of building a lighter FR bike, but I want to still climb everything with it.
I talked with Carter from Blackmarket Bikes at the last Sea Otter, His new A\M bike is supposed to be super strong, don't see any feedback out there on how they ride though...
 
#9 ·
Rage43, How is your gearing set up?
I saw a Canfield build online from Aug '13 with a hammerschmidt and thought that might work for me. I am coming from a 3X9 setup now and really like my range. 20-32-44 and a 11-34 cassette gets me up any hill (22% grade on my local) and can haul ass down.
 
#17 ·
I have a 28t drive and a C2 Micro drive rear hub with a 9-36 cassette. LOVE the range with this! And a tip; the ONE's suspension design is to eliminate bob from pedaling forces in the granny gear. If you run a 2x setup you will notice a big increase in pedal efficiency when you drop down to the climbing gear. I decided on the 1x because I could use a 28t drive to gain the pedaling efficiency combined with the 9t rear makes up for the high end that I would want for the descending. I think this drive train is perfect for this bike.
 
#13 ·
+ 12,326 on the Canfield One. I've ridden mine very hard, both up and down. It has a very rigid feel to the entire frame, and it feels very light and nimble. Buffalo with ballet slippers. Jumps well, climbs better than anything in its class, and really does feel like a dh bike when going down. I've got a 1x10 drivetrain (28T, 11-36) and it will climb pretty much anything. If it were available at the time, I would have probably gotten Canfield's 9T microdrive rear hub, as it would give me pretty much the full range of a 2x setup, but I don't miss the little bit of top end I've lost. I have found i really don't miss it much at all. It just rips. Weighs in at around 34lb, and outperforms my 30lb Reign both going up and coming down. SUPER fun bike, and the company is incredibly good to deal with.
 
#15 ·
There's two ways this could go and depending on your intent a freeride bike that can climb or an Enduro/Trail bike that can handle some abuse is the answer. Will you be using it to pedal up to backcountry descents where it has to be just good enough at climbing to make it tolerable but then provide a near-DH ride on the way down? Or, will you be using it as a Trail/XC bike where it needs to be pleasant on rolling terrain and flats?

If the former, a 7" bike that pedals reasonably and has room for a long seatpost (Canfield One) would be killer with a Fox 180 TALAS.
If the later, you'd be better off with a 150-160mm bike. Nomads seem pretty durable and designed for that niche.
 
#20 ·
It has to climb well. I was originally looking for a strong 6" bike. It seems most are made to be as light as possible and lack the strength I need. The FOES FXR looked pretty solid, but I don't know anyone who has any time on one. A 7" Bike that climbs would be a dream. I do climb a LOT, so that is very important in this decision.

I have been riding a '10 575 as a trail bike, and it is not considered the best climber, but I am real happy with what I can do with it. It gets up real technical climbs well, and is a great descender. Just bent the frame again, just enough where the rear tire almost rubs. Need a bike where I can forget about baby-ing it. This Canfield sounds great.
 
#23 ·
Knolly Delirium or Chilcotin.

Delirium is burly as heck and best technical climber I've ever ridden to date. Don't make em anymore, although Fanatyko in Whistler had a medium (maybe still does).

Chilcotin is adjustable geo, so you can slack it out for smoother jumpy stuff or a bit steeper for climby/techy slow stuff. Surgical precision handling. Runs whistler park, east coast park, east coast everything tech & does well up to 10' lip to lip with good transition. Also does great on 3-5 hour pedally rides.

I hear good things at the park about the one. Can't say I hear much about it on east coast trail though.
 
#28 ·
Knolly Delirium or Chilcotin.

Delirium is burly as heck and best technical climber I've ever ridden to date. Don't make em anymore, although Fanatyko in Whistler had a medium (maybe still does).

Chilcotin is adjustable geo, so you can slack it out for smoother jumpy stuff or a bit steeper for climby/techy slow stuff. Surgical precision handling. Runs whistler park, east coast park, east coast everything tech & does well up to 10' lip to lip with good transition. Also does great on 3-5 hour pedally rides.

I hear good things at the park about the one. Can't say I hear much about it on east coast trail though.
yes they do mate.... fanatyko in whistler still have a medium raw 2011 delirium with fox dhx 5 air forsale. think it was arround 1300 can dollar. this would be a awesome bike for you.
 
#25 ·
On the more affordable side, you can probably pick up a Transition Bottlerocket for cheap. Only 5" of travel, but with an adjustable headset you can get the HA where you want it.

A Nomad or Enduro would likely be a bit tougher than your old 575, too. I've had good luck with my '12 Enduro comp, and my neighbor has has no troubles with his Nomad C, even set up with a Boxxer for racing easier DH courses.
 
#30 ·
My 2011 Meta 55 has been bullet proof. more than a whole season of super D racing. No joke, more than 1 million feet of climbing. A couple real DH races. Downieville trips, jump parks, 12'+ drops, 50' far triple jumps. I did 250 hours of trails in a year on the Commencal and it is still solid. It may only be 140mm but where i mostly ride that is all that is needed.
 
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