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Chain tugs or better bolts? Chain suggestion?

2K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  Gritter 
#1 ·
I was out riding yesterday and noticed I am pulling the wheel forward on the drive side. Common problem. Is there a chain tug that will work with the stock axel bolts? Do I need longer bolts? Or should I just reef it down? I have not had a whole bunch of problems with it. I would also like to prevent this from becoming problem. Also what is a good nice looking chain (gold prefered) that will last? I say gold chaid mainly because they seem to hold up so well and stay nice on my MX bike (motorcycle). Thanks! ---Mike :thumbsup:
 
#3 ·
or the redline chain tugs. they come in pairs, which I recommend over a drive side only set up, and they are a bit cheaper ~$15 on amazon.

as for chain, it really doesn't matter. if you have a nice chain line then they all should work nicely. just make sure sizing matches your cog/chainwheel.
 
#6 ·
as for chain, it really doesn't matter
That's not true. There are good chains and there are bad chains. A bad chain stretches rapidly and in doing so damages your sprocket and chainring. A really bad chain snaps when you're far away from home. A good chain, like those that I recommended, will last a long time without stretching or snapping.

Oh, and you don't need a chain tug on the non-drive side because there's nothing pulling on it. Go away and learn the basics before you come here and give "advice".
 
#5 ·
picture? almost all rear hubs are spaced the same, so I don't think width should be an issue. Regardless, on my SS, even with everything aligned and tightened down, the hub will slip in the dropouts. I was having to adjust tension every ride. With my chain tugs, I tension it once a month or less.
 
#13 ·
To eliminate the problem, remove paint from the friction surfaces on both sides of the forkends. The hub locknut and bolt should meet bare metal. Paint is what causes the slip and tightening the nuts harder won't solve your problem. A sharp knife is a good tool for removing paint without chipping.

If you want more peace of mind (or run a small chainring which pulls the hub harder towards the front), a tuggnut might be in order. I have the Surly and based on your picture I'd say it's a direct fit.

Chains do matter. You'll find the best chains in 3/32 width, but 1/8 chains are made with good quality as well.
 
#16 ·
I'm a fan of chain tuggs. You can slap your axle nuts on finger-tight and your wheel won't slip (not that I recommend doing that, although I have done it on accident). I also like the fine-tune-ability of chain tension. I totally douche out and run two, because I'm OCD like that. Another aspect that probably only matters to me, is that I didn't dig into my new bike's dropout's paint by imprinting all those divots from the axle nut/washer. Sometimes, (especially on an aluminum frame) digging in and imprinting those divots, will coerce your axle back to that position after your chain stretches, or you change some tooth counts.
 
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