First, the 20mm interface is much beefier in several ways because of size, contact area, and bolts (usually). Secondly, most of the forks that come with 20mm axles are usually built stronger also. Some manufacturers do make almost identical forks with QR or 20mm, but most have some significant differences. There is definitely a more positive steering precision in rough terrain with 20mm front axles in just about all cases.
How about the new crop of forks? AM1, Shermans etc with QR and 150mm travel (and 32mm stanctions), do they compare for rigidity with prev gen ~130mm thru-axle forks?
How about the new crop of forks? AM1, Shermans etc with QR and 150mm travel (and 32mm stanctions), do they compare for rigidity with prev gen ~130mm thru-axle forks?
Yes, even the new generation forks benefit from having a 20mm axle. A mate had the QR Nixons and said they were awesome...didnt need a thru axle, then he tried the 20mm and said he was wrong. This guy works for a bike comp wholesaler and rides alot of new stuff.
SMT hit it when he said, once you've tried it you wont go back. I have 20mm set up on my trail bike as well as my DH.
I think that you gonna be better off buying a new front wheel ...but if you like your rim you may get a 20mm hub for cheap and put it on that rim.. It may end up costing you more money...go for a new fron wheel.
Does anybody know where I can buy a cheap front wheel (new) for around 100 bucks.
It needs to fit a hexlock axle, because I want to get the stance flow!
Thanks
Craig
my mate says the stance flow is crap. he works for a shop and ride a lot of new stuff. Get a 2nd hand tcpplus sherman or a Z1 stance flows have crap damping
it depends, when you move to a dual-crown fork...it doesn't make as much difference IMO, especially when you put a BMX-bolt-on axle in your hub (if it can accept it). 20mm is nice, and for all downhill oriented stuff it makes sense to just make it all 20mm so it's all "standard", but for some applications it's not critical, a good solid bolt-on axle can make a big difference too.
it depends, when you move to a dual-crown fork...it doesn't make as much difference IMO, especially when you put a BMX-bolt-on axle in your hub (if it can accept it). 20mm is nice, and for all downhill oriented stuff it makes sense to just make it all 20mm so it's all "standard", but for some applications it's not critical, a good solid bolt-on axle can make a big difference too.
I have a P2 that came with both ends 10mm nutted axle (which I thought was good for jumping).
I know the rear end has to be stronger, but I was wondering how the front was comparable to a 20mm thru axle in regards to flexing and steering inputs.
I just upgraded the fork and stayed with a standard dropout.
Hope it was a good choice.
Can you buy cheap and or expensive front and rear aftermarket 10mm nutted axle hubs?
I might want to have a lighter set of wheels built.
Any info would be helpful.......thanks
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
15.4M posts
515.6K members
Since 1990
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!