I'm literally just getting into mountain biking but love toying with working on bikes. I picked up an old GT Richter in solid condition with quality, but old, parts (shimano deore xt shifters and brakes). My plan is to replace parts that I think need to be and just have a good time getting into it until I decide that I'm hitting trails too big for it.
The first thing that I want to replace on it is the fork since it is very outdated...'93 Rockshox Quadra. But I'm worried about messing with the geometry too much. This thing only has 48mm of travel on it and nothing that I have looked at on ebay has less than 100mm. Is that going to screw me over? Also I'm in college and broke...is something cheap like the Dart 1 really as bad as some make it out to be?
Any insight at all would be great!
I took the whole assembly off to clean the headset and steerer.
And I had planned on cleaning and re-greasing the bushings of the suspension, following the manual I downloaded from Sram, but couldn't get the lower tubes off. I wanted to clean this while waiting to buy a new one because it felt stiff, but like I said, it is only 48mm of travel so I suppose it has to be pretty stiff. maybe?
Almost any recent vintage fork you can find, new or used, will be better than what you have on it. Definitely do not go longer than 100 mm -- you may be able to find a used XC fork, such as a Manitou Skareb or early vintage Fox, with an 80 mm stroke. I would not invest very much money.
Oh, you are in deep, deep trouble my friend. Hand all your credit cards to your wife. Start attending Bling-a-holic Anonymous meetings .
I love working on bikes too. :thumbsup:
My advice on your fork would be to go rigid. Look for a rigid fork that has more or less the same axle-to-crown measurement as the 43mm suspension fork currently on the bike. I believe you would have better luck finding a rigid fork with the correct axle-to-crown than finding a decent suspension fork these days having less than 50mm travel. You'll probably lighten the bike up in the process. Plus, a rigid fork won't cost much money. You won't be throwing money at a low-end, low-travel fork. You'll be buying a decent, rigid fork that will last for years.
Just a couple of questions
What is meant by messing up the geometry of the bike? Is it an actual compromise to the integrity of the frame? Or is it just that the frame orientation and rider position are changed? Because that might suit me well...I think the bike is currently leaning forwards a bit more than I would like...a few weeks ago it went up on end throwing me off just from braking.
the dart 1 has 100mm, and I know that it doesn't have dampening, but I don't have any kind of aggressive trails around. If I'm just looking to smooth out things like roots and a few trail holes, will it work or is it terrible. I was kinda banking on those who don't like it being much more involved in the sport than I
What is meant by messing up the geometry of the bike? Is it an actual compromise to the integrity of the frame? Or is it just that the frame orientation and rider position are changed?
It can be both. By installing a longer fork, you're hanging a longer lever off the head tube than the frame was designed for. At some point, you risk enough added stress to snap the frame. Adding a longer fork can also mess up the handling, though many sometimes prefer a slightly slacker head angle than a frame was originally designed around.
Just a couple of questions
What is meant by messing up the geometry of the bike? Is it an actual compromise to the integrity of the frame? Or is it just that the frame orientation and rider position are changed? Because that might suit me well...I think the bike is currently leaning forwards a bit more than I would like...a few weeks ago it went up on end throwing me off just from braking.
Also the dart 1 has 100mm, and I know that it doesn't have dampening, but I don't have any kind of aggressive trails around. If I'm just looking to smooth out things like roots and a few trail holes, will it work or is it terrible. I was kinda banking on those who don't like it being much more involved in the sport than I
JonathanG said it best -- a longer fork will put more stress on the head tube and could possibly break welds in that area. However, if you are riding XC trails and dirt roads, this is not as big of a concern. The longer fork would effectively raise the front end, slacken the resulting head tube angle, and slow the steering down. If your bike rides low in the front and/or is "twitchy" at speed, then a longer fork would be an improvement. The point of concern is that your current fork travel is so short, a 100 mm stroke fork is a big change -- perhaps too big. Look for a used 80 mm Rock Shox SID, or go with a rigid fork as suggested by another poster.
BTW -- the Dart does have damping, just not very good damping.
how heavy of trail riding are you planning with it. I am asking because it may be possible that a marzocchi TXC line may work for you. They run 60mm not intended for big stuff but quite capable for XC riding.
Thanks for all the help guys. I may just keep riding this fork for a while since it's basically like a heavy rigid and start saving for a better investment...since I picked this one up for really cheap. I think it will work as a springboard to get me into the sport more...Plus I have enjoyed the learning experience.
Anybody have a favorite entry bike they would suggest I save for? < $500 (broke college kid), hardtail, not looking to do anything hardcore for now.
And obviously I am planning on craigslisting it up for a while because I figure I could pick up a much better used bike in that range than a new one...duh.
So what should I keep my eye out for? and what price should I jump on if I find it?
I would almost ride this the way it is for the whole summer and find out what you loke or dislike about the bike. this will also allow you to focus on riding. then come fall when some shops want to discount inventory so not to store them over the winter (of course this only applies to areas that are subject to winter)you may be able to find a good price on somthing leftover, or at least have enough knowledge of your own bike at this point to feel comfortable scouring CL to find a better or newer bike that will suit what you want.
Best bang for the buck I've found right now is Performance Bike. They have a Recon Silver TK Solo Air for $199.99. Go in on a Tuesday to the store at lunch time and get an additional 10% off. A Recon for $179.99+Tax?!?! The one I just bought was 100 mm.
And obviously I am planning on craigslisting it up for a while because I figure I could pick up a much better used bike in that range than a new one...duh.
So what should I keep my eye out for? and what price should I jump on if I find it?
No generic way to answer. Bikes come for all kinds of prices new, some people try to get almost as much back as they paid. Some will need work, which will affect the value... drivetrain especially (always assume suspension needs service, so that kind of cancels out).
Basically difference b/t good deal and terrible one is the price. Really would need something specific to weigh in on.
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