Shown below is a picture of my seat and the angle it is currently at. I have a hussefelt double clamp seatpost and I can't make the angle change on the seat so that it isn't shooting into my nut sack.
Is the angle of the seat possibly thrown off because of my Marz fork messing with the geo? Or should I still be able to make the angle on it straighter? Thoughts? I've tinkered with it for like 1 hour and it is pissing me off.
Even with the front end being higher I think you should be able to at least get the saddle level. The dual clamping assembly looks quite a bit like the one on my stock specialized post, if you were to loosen both front/rear so the entire assembly can move freely you should be able to get the upper/lower sections shifted around enough to get the saddle levelled. Then start out by tightening up the front until it's almost snug. Then tighten up the rear bolt a bit.
I'm only able to base this off of pics off the web so I can't say for certain this will work but it does look quite a bit like the clamps I have. The key is to loosen up both bolts completely and get the two pieces of the clamp sitting in the right position, then all should fall into place.
I asume that the angle in the picture is W/both screws tightened.
Start W/both screws tight. Loosen the rear seat clamp screw a few turns, tighten the front screw.
Check the angle & repeat as needed. Loosen one & tighten the other. As you loosen the rear screw, it will allow the front screw to pull the seat angle down as it is tightened.
Reverse the order to raise the front of the seat.
Never loosen both screws, that accompishes nothing.
That's how the dual screw seat clamp works on my Specialized Crosstrail Sport.
Looking at the pic in the OP, to me it looks like the upper part of the clamp is too far to the rear and not "centered" over the lower section, this can pinch the upper against the seat rails and not allow it to shift nose down any firther than it is currently.. With both sides loosened up you should be able to move the entire clamping assembly through the full range of motion and get the saddle at least "almost" level and get the upper/lower alignment of the clamp correct. I ran into this when I changed my saddle and the upper/lower portions were binding up a bit before I could get the saddle level, loosened up both sides and got it close to level and then fine tuned it by using the loosen/tighten technique.
Looking at the pic in the OP, to me it looks like the upper part of the clamp is too far to the rear and not "centered" over the lower section. With both sides loose you should be able to move the entire clamping assembly through the full range. Part of the reason is to be able to center the upper section on the seat rails, much easier with both sides loose.. I ran into this when I changed my saddle and the upper/lower portions binding up a bit before I could get the saddle level, loosened up both sides and got it close to level and then fine tuned it by using the loosen/tighten technique.
We shall indeed be able to work something out I give you...Frank the Tank, a purpose built bike polo masheen! Built from the finest parts around, around meaning in my garage. Chromoly frame, single speed or fixed gear, front brake, bullhorn bars even! There's just too much to list, hell, I'll even throw in a brand new polo mallet made from the finest broomstick that $2.50 can buy! I will trade you even for your bike with the seatpost issues :thumbsup:
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