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Help me convert my 1x9, or can I do this myself?

547 views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  mustridebike 
#1 ·
I have a 29er Qball frame (horizontal drops) currently set up as a 1x9 (32 ring upfront and 11x34 in the back) with a Chris King ISO hub (with fun bolts--I was thinking ahead). I'd like to try SS this winter but don't want to pay a shop to convert me over for what seems like a not too difficult job. I have some, but not a lot of bike mechanical nija skills. I'd like to get an 18 and 20 tooth cog for the back and realize I'll need a new chain, but am curious if anyone can point me to what spacers . . . etc. I'll need to try to try to make the swap myself.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Pabs said:
I have a 29er Qball frame (horizontal drops) currently set up as a 1x9 (32 ring upfront and 11x34 in the back) with a Chris King ISO hub (with fun bolts--I was thinking ahead). I'd like to try SS this winter but don't want to pay a shop to convert me over for what seems like a not too difficult job. I have some, but not a lot of bike mechanical nija skills. I'd like to get an 18 and 20 tooth cog for the back and realize I'll need a new chain, but am curious if anyone can point me to what spacers . . . etc. I'll need to try to try to make the swap myself.

Thanks.
There are single speed spacer kits available to purchase. Talk to your LBS or look online. Also make sure you have the proper tools to get your cassette off. Chain whips are your friend. It's pretty straight forward after that. You will have to play with the spacers and your cog to get the right chainline but it's not too hard. I run a 32x22 on my 29er but there are a lot of hills in Colorado.
 
#3 ·
The Hookler said:
There are single speed spacer kits available to purchase. Talk to your LBS or look online. Also make sure you have the proper tools to get your cassette off. Chain whips are your friend. It's pretty straight forward after that. You will have to play with the spacers and your cog to get the right chainline but it's not too hard. I run a 32x22 on my 29er but there are a lot of hills in Colorado.
AH, yes, I have a chain whip and the bolt to take the cassette off.

So, do I really just need to plan on playing around with various spacers to get a good chainline?
 
#4 ·
Pabs said:
AH, yes, I have a chain whip and the bolt to take the cassette off.

So, do I really just need to plan on playing around with various spacers to get a good chainline?
If you get a spacer kit you should be able to get close the first time around. If you center the spacer on the hub body you should be real close. I actually run two different gears on my 29er SS. One for trail and one to get out to the trail. Works pretty good.
 
#5 ·
take a ruler, or meter-stick, anything perfectly flat and long enough.
run it along the side of your (front) chainring and rest it on top of your hub (when there's no gears on it)
mark that with a pen.
when spacing your cog onto the hub just make sure your cog's resting over the mark.
near perfect chainline every time (as long as your measuring tool isn't warped or something)
 
#6 ·
you can do it mathematically ( I did it not 3 hours ago)

Measure your chain line from the middle of your seat tube to the middle of your chainring (mine was 50mm)

your rear hub is 135mm if it is a standard non DH etc so halve that and you have 67.5mm (the distance from the center of the hub to the dropout internal face

Then subtract your chain line from that 67.5mm - 50mm = 17.5mm That should be where your sprocket goes.(from the inside dropout face end / axle mating face)

Easier than it reads
 
#7 ·
The Hookler said:
If you get a spacer kit you should be able to get close the first time around. If you center the spacer on the hub body you should be real close. I actually run two different gears on my 29er SS. One for trail and one to get out to the trail. Works pretty good.
Can I see a pic? How does your chain line work?
 
#8 ·
roybatty666 said:
you can do it mathematically ( I did it not 3 hours ago)

Measure your chain line from the middle of your seat tube to the middle of your chainring (mine was 50mm)

your rear hub is 135mm if it is a standard non DH etc so halve that and you have 67.5mm (the distance from the center of the hub to the dropout internal face

Then subtract your chain line from that 67.5mm - 50mm = 17.5mm That should be where your sprocket goes.(from the inside dropout face end / axle mating face)

Easier than it reads
NICE! Very simple, works great! Thanks for the tip.:thumbsup:
 
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