Hello everyone. Kind of new to the forums, but wanted to introduce myself, while at the same time talk about the bike I ride.
My name is Cody Yankey currently stationed in Japan working for the US Navy as an AD (Aviation machinist mate, nut shell: I work on the Jet engines). I was stationed in Jacksonville Florida when I started to mountain bike 3 years ago. I had/and still have a 2005 specialized P2 (not the cro-mo), and it has been AWESOME to me. Did some dirtjumping, urban/free riding with it, and it has been a great starting bike.
Well...I figured it was time to get into something that can handle higher drops, bigger jumps, and some Black diamond/downhill riding. I think I got in the ball park of what I needed with the SX trail. Looks are a hate/love type of thing, but I am a HUGE fan of the Norco Six, so I fell in love at first sight (Love the uninterrupted seat tube of the SX.).
I think I might be having a few problems with the bike? It is about as different as it gets from my P2, but with a bike that costs this much, and the reputation it holds with professional riders. I would think I would not have any problems from it. Then again, maybe they are not problems, and are just something understood upon buying something like this.
Problem 1
The Derailleur is an E-type bolted to the chain stay (I love this feature) so it is different then I am "use" to. It has SRAM X-5 shifters, which have great feel, but, the shifter is set up for a 3 ring set-up, well....My bike only has 2 chain rings, so when I need to put the chain on the upper ring I really have PRESS hard and VERY far to get the derailleur to move the chain on the upper ring, and sometimes, after a good hard hit it shifts itself back to the lower ring, or the chain just falls off the rings themselves. I know I am not hitting the lever with my thumb, because the marker is still indicating the larger chain ring. Is this something with full suspension I have to adjust my riding to, or do I need to adjust the front derailleur for more clearance? Maybe the chain is too lose? I am at a loss.
Problem 2
The head tube is a taper design that is now getting a ton of attention from the big bike companies. It is a really cool design, and looks fantastic, and so far, has performed great, but, it feels like my fork becomes loose inside the frame after a hard day of riding. I took it apart, cleaned it, re greased it, and then put everything back together while having a friend press the handle bars down, while I tightened the headset. Then I took it riding again yesterday, and noticed that it was showing/felt a little play when I set the front brake and moved the bike forward with my hands (you could feel it). Is this normal, or do I need a tool to compress the fork up, or down (whichever way you want to look at it) so I can maintain the proper tightness in the headset/riser? Or is this something that I will always have to watch out for?
Problem 3
The DHX 4.0 I keep bottoming out on bigger drops, or some of my 4-5 feet to flat hit. I have the air pressure to 150psi, and the rebound to the fastest setting with the pro-pedal (which I assume was compression) to the hardest setting. Maybe I just need a stronger spring (current spring is a 600) or a stronger shock.
This is not a problem, but more of a preventative thing, does anyone have a link to the Rock Shock Domain 318 rebuild kit, and maintenance procedures? I do not want to send this thing in, if I can just do the work myself. I figure every 2 months, or maybe 200 hours of ride time for an oil change, and packing check. Does that sound like good intervals or do I need more frequent checks?
Your inputs would be great, and really be a good learning experiance for me. In Japan it is hard to get what I am saying across to the maintenance guy or local dealer. My Japanese is almost as good as my English grammar skills, which...As you can see....Arn't the best.
Thanks
-Cody
My name is Cody Yankey currently stationed in Japan working for the US Navy as an AD (Aviation machinist mate, nut shell: I work on the Jet engines). I was stationed in Jacksonville Florida when I started to mountain bike 3 years ago. I had/and still have a 2005 specialized P2 (not the cro-mo), and it has been AWESOME to me. Did some dirtjumping, urban/free riding with it, and it has been a great starting bike.
Well...I figured it was time to get into something that can handle higher drops, bigger jumps, and some Black diamond/downhill riding. I think I got in the ball park of what I needed with the SX trail. Looks are a hate/love type of thing, but I am a HUGE fan of the Norco Six, so I fell in love at first sight (Love the uninterrupted seat tube of the SX.).
I think I might be having a few problems with the bike? It is about as different as it gets from my P2, but with a bike that costs this much, and the reputation it holds with professional riders. I would think I would not have any problems from it. Then again, maybe they are not problems, and are just something understood upon buying something like this.
Problem 1
The Derailleur is an E-type bolted to the chain stay (I love this feature) so it is different then I am "use" to. It has SRAM X-5 shifters, which have great feel, but, the shifter is set up for a 3 ring set-up, well....My bike only has 2 chain rings, so when I need to put the chain on the upper ring I really have PRESS hard and VERY far to get the derailleur to move the chain on the upper ring, and sometimes, after a good hard hit it shifts itself back to the lower ring, or the chain just falls off the rings themselves. I know I am not hitting the lever with my thumb, because the marker is still indicating the larger chain ring. Is this something with full suspension I have to adjust my riding to, or do I need to adjust the front derailleur for more clearance? Maybe the chain is too lose? I am at a loss.
Problem 2
The head tube is a taper design that is now getting a ton of attention from the big bike companies. It is a really cool design, and looks fantastic, and so far, has performed great, but, it feels like my fork becomes loose inside the frame after a hard day of riding. I took it apart, cleaned it, re greased it, and then put everything back together while having a friend press the handle bars down, while I tightened the headset. Then I took it riding again yesterday, and noticed that it was showing/felt a little play when I set the front brake and moved the bike forward with my hands (you could feel it). Is this normal, or do I need a tool to compress the fork up, or down (whichever way you want to look at it) so I can maintain the proper tightness in the headset/riser? Or is this something that I will always have to watch out for?
Problem 3
The DHX 4.0 I keep bottoming out on bigger drops, or some of my 4-5 feet to flat hit. I have the air pressure to 150psi, and the rebound to the fastest setting with the pro-pedal (which I assume was compression) to the hardest setting. Maybe I just need a stronger spring (current spring is a 600) or a stronger shock.
This is not a problem, but more of a preventative thing, does anyone have a link to the Rock Shock Domain 318 rebuild kit, and maintenance procedures? I do not want to send this thing in, if I can just do the work myself. I figure every 2 months, or maybe 200 hours of ride time for an oil change, and packing check. Does that sound like good intervals or do I need more frequent checks?
Your inputs would be great, and really be a good learning experiance for me. In Japan it is hard to get what I am saying across to the maintenance guy or local dealer. My Japanese is almost as good as my English grammar skills, which...As you can see....Arn't the best.
Thanks
-Cody