I just had a small crash in one of our local trails earlier, but it was hard enough to tear off a chunk of skin from my right leg. I remember my rear brake locked and I was off the bike.
I checked out Lee McCormack's site and said that to maintain control, do not drag the brake, its brake and release.
if it's rooty or has wet rocks wait until you hit dirt to brake. If traction is a problem I do tap and release, even if you lockup it's only for a second
One technique I try to use myself is establishing subconciously some sort of baseline braking to maintain and never go below. Thusly, I hold my front brake at let's say, 40% what I need, which helps me control the speed and keeps my balance constant due to forward-biasing the weight a bit, to which I accomodate my body position. Then I can add a bit more to bring it up to about 60-70%, and anymore, I start bringing my rear brake into the mix, as well as to help drag and straighten the rear.
This method helps prevent lockup. It's not gospel, but just another technique that can be explored.
That's why you dial in your suspension, and work the bike instead of accepting what it gives you. You lean back to negate some of the weight transfer, add LSC, preload, and other adjustments in tune with the riding style to accommodate that.
It's so subconcious for me that it's hard to describe. I think I find that point where I'm right on the verge of lockup and modulate right along that fine line avoid lockup completely if I can or at least limiting sliding as much as possible. Keeping your weight neutral is important, you can allow the bike to do it's work better if you float your weight and distribute it properly to maintain control. A lot of people really don't modulate well from what I've seen. If you're locked up you've lost control, and a lot of time in really steep sections it will totally screw up the line you want and you may crash if you end up where you don't want to be.
Braking and riding don't go well together. So in general less time on the brakes the better. Getting behind the bike and pushing on the pedals can gain more traction and then you can brake harder and faster without locking up. (best - hard and fast and then off the brakes and back to riding position)
In tec sections often the front brake is better left untouched. Have to slow down before entry
And riding with brakes just kinda on is better avoided when ever possible. Tight steep switchbacks and the like, I just can't help but ride the brakes.
depends on the steep terrain too. if it's got a good, relatively straight runout, or a nice, solid turn at the bottom, just blast it without brakes :thumbsup:
I usually apply 40% front brake first, then quickly shift my weight over the rear tire while applying 75% rear brake... On steeper terrain, I apply the brakes the same way, but obviously use more braking force...
This morning's ride was a slopfest through the trees at Wharncliffe, Wetscreams on and there was still no way i could have stopped had i needed to without locking up the back and laying it down sideways. Just a case of looking for the dry patches to brake on, and knowing the trail.
Some days it's just too wet and too steep to be able to do anything, no matter how good you are.
This morning's ride was a slopfest through the trees at Wharncliffe, Wetscreams on and there was still no way i could have stopped had i needed to without locking up the back and laying it down sideways. Just a case of looking for the dry patches to brake on, and knowing the trail.
Some days it's just too wet and too steep to be able to do anything, no matter how good you are.
i'd have to disagree there, look at this years Whistler DH and all of the top racers were still running original sin(if you haven't ridden it very rooty, rocky and steep) in the pouring rain in i believe it was 16 minutes so they obviously have a high enough skill level to be able to basically ride anything.
I appreciate that a good rider can ride 'almost anything', but this is the track that 'almost' doesn't cover, it's a 30 degree slope switchback threading through the trees on clay, there's no real 'track' to speak of, just a ridden line.
yesterday it was unridable, it wasn't even walkable.
What tires are you running OP? I have been a bit of a tire (and bike) whore over the last season and I'm amazed how much difference a rear tire can make on braking performance. If your tire is gripping just a tiny bit more and not allowing lock up, you decelerate in a much more controlled and predictable manner.
Brakes that offer better modulation help too. My Formula Megas are superior in modulation to the Codes and Stroker Trails that I've had in the past which allows for a larger margin of error when OHSHIT braking occurs.
Tires are definitely a good thing to be looking at also suspension set up but these can only go so far, there is a motocross saying that goes 10% bike 90% rider and it holds true for bicycles too. To those people that say locking the rear is bad they are right for the most part, but there are times on steeps when it helps to lock it up, ie sharp corners. But when I say locking the rear is good I don't mean keeping the rear locked, lock it let it spin. Do this until you feel you can make the corner then don't touch any brakes at all. Slowing down before any corner or really tech steep section is always good. Do what feels good to you, experiment lean your bike and body different ways put your feet out on corners like motocrossers get your weight really low like a sportbike rider on the super steeps modulate your brakes, lock them for short bursts. Find some riders out there with a higher skill level than you and go riding with them. You will find a way that works for you if you try a bunch of different strategies, just get out there and try some different stuff.
It all depends on how ballsy you are and how fast you're willing to go. On the really steep stuff, theres a speed at which you will not be able to stop no matter what you do or how you brake. Modulation and using say, 50% of braking power will not adequately slow you down, and jamming them on will only cause you to slide. This is fine, if you're ballsy and don't mind hauling ass down the steeps, but if you want some control you'll need to stay below the speed "of no return". Obviously, this speed is determined by what you're riding in particular.
If you are skidding going down a steep then you are out of controll. Unless you are in sand, gravel or very loose stuff
I wouldn't be worrying about tires unless they were bald or a very hard compound (cheap).
riding steeps.
butt back behind seat......
body low in attack position (KEY) relax
look forward to where you are going no front brake while descending(very little if you are a expert or above rider)
back brake as long as you can until the rear traction starts to break free. Then let go.
if you have any bumps you need to let go of breaks
try to ride straitest line possible
brake when trail becomes flat
If you are skidding going down a steep then you are out of controll. Unless you are in sand, gravel or very loose stuff
I wouldn't be worrying about tires unless they were bald or a very hard compound (cheap).
riding steeps.
butt back behind seat......
body low in attack position (KEY) relax
look forward to where you are going no front brake while descending(very little if you are a expert or above rider)
back brake as long as you can until the rear traction starts to break free. Then let go.
if you have any bumps you need to let go of breaks
try to ride straitest line possible
brake when trail becomes flat
you don't brake in steep shoots you stop at the bottom
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