Currently running DT Swiss 340's. 20mm front and 12mm x 150mm rear (bolt on).
If I go to CK then I don't lose me any weight, unless I drop from a steel to aluminum driveshell - sweet as hell though. Hadley awesome hubs, but the same, no weight loss.
Hope Pro II's will drop over 100 grams but that's with an aluminum driveshell.
So as I'm a big boy and ripping DH trails hard, often, including bike park, should I stick to steel driveshell for durability ?
Not a weight weenie deal :nono: I just need to trim weight of a big DH rig while having good solid hubs that will last a few years.
However, I don't think you'll really get an appreciable difference. The 340's engagement system is very strong, owing to a few parts and 360 degrees of engagement, solidly locking the driveshell and hubshell together on power. I have a 240s, a 340, and the ProII. I like them all, but there's something elegantly simple of the few mechanical parts in star ratchet hubs.
I'm still not sure about this steel v aluminum gig. I'm a big guy doing lots of hard DH and bike park. I hear that I need s/steel for sure. If I could go to aluminum then I'd lose another 100g easy e.g. with the CK.
You can also go with a hub that has a Ti freehub body. I know Profile make a 12 x 150mm rear with a Ti freehub. I have an older FR440 set on my DH that has a Ti freehub body as well. Saves a little weight over the steel and is far stronger than aluminum.
I have been running Profile hubs for a good amunt of time and I love them. Currently running a SS rear hub with Ti shimano splined cassette driver on my DJ and a Profile 10 x 135 rear hub with Ti shimano body on my FR bike.
But I would keep the hubs and go with a lighter rim build.
yeh, throw out your heavy DH tubes or Stans system and get used to pumping up latex tubes every few days. 150gms+ saved in your tubes makes an awful lot of difference.
Not really.... reducing mass in the rear wheel/chainstay/whatever may improve suspension action a bit and ultimately improve small bump compilance.
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