Purchased a used highine w/ version 2.5 rear triangle. I bought a hadley rear hub and checked the fit. It seems that the hub is sitting on top of the grooves meant for the hubs. Am I doing something wrong? I try to slide it into place but there seems to be a fit issue. I know people are running hadleys, what am I doing wrong?
DT explained that when you use certain Hubs(Hadley included) you will need to take a dremel, and grind down that cradle flange, so that it is flush with the rest of the chainstay. I did it on mine, for my Hadley, and it works perfect. That cradle was designed to hold the wheel in place while you stick the axle in. Unfornately the diameter of the cones on the Hadley are too big. Get out the grinder and let it rip.
I'll have to check and see if my 08 frame has these (it's not built yet.) It's got the newer rear end with the speed slots, but I don't remember seeing those half-circle flanges the few times I've fondled it in my office.
FWIW my DT440 hub fits fine within that radiused lip.
If you have a hub with a larger radius that doesn't fit, like the hadley, I would definitely think that you want to remove that lip with a dremel. Otherwise you are spreading the rear end and reducing the contact area to make it fit.
DT explained that when you use certain Hubs(Hadley included) you will need to take a dremel, and grind down that cradle flange, so that it is flush with the rest of the chainstay. I did it on mine, for my Hadley, and it works perfect. That cradle was designed to hold the wheel in place while you stick the axle in. Unfornately the diameter of the cones on the Hadley are too big. Get out the grinder and let it rip.
I don't think it causes any issues, other than to eat away at you. If the axle is tight, I can't imagine anything weird happening. It speads your stays out wider by a tiny margin, but it shouldn't cause any weird alignment issues.
I'd grind it down personally. Again, you're spreading your rear end ihih: )
and minimizing surface contact area... probably not a huge deal but you are putting added stress on your frame by doing these things.
Alternately... (and I'm not familiar with Hadley hubs) perhaps you could turn down your hub cones on a lathe to fit within the frames radius.
It looks to me from that picture that only half the hub's radius is making contact with the dropout. Wouldn't it be subseptible to stress from angular torque towards that gap?
If nothing else it looks like an area for additional flex. I doubt it would be critical though.
It looks to me from that picture that only half the hub's radius is making contact with the dropout. Wouldn't it be subseptible to stress from angular torque towards that gap?
Good point. Although the difference may be less than intially thought, since the flange on the Hadley is larger, even though half is not touching, it would only flex when twsited down.
Also, since it's a solid 12mm axle, and not a QR "wire", the twisting degree is negligible.
There's no doubt the hub would be "more" solid if shaved down, but by how much and is it worth the hassle?
Agreed, that was my point about not being critical. The axle bolt fits pretty tightly so I'd guess it would hold it quite well, certainly no movement. There might be some additional flex if the wheel was twisted such that the bottom was pulled towards the gap. But btwn the axle tightness and the resistance from the opposite upper side, it's probably only an academic consideration. OTOH the loads are pretty high at that area esp on a FR bike. No danger but perhaps not optimum.
Conversly CK's got that problem licked... in lieu of quite another.
Devils's advocate here...
flex ain't the issue
By spreading the rear end, and doing it from a narrow contact point, you are pushing the drop-out bearings away from being co-planar. This puts uneven wear on the drop-out bearings and surfaces, and stresses the welds that hold the rear end to 150mm width (since you are effective spreading the rear to 151.5mm +/-)
I agree, check with Dave if you're nervous about modifying your frame.
Personally, I'd absolutely prefer a flush interface with the hub and frame.
This has been addressed several times in the past. Shanedawg, El C and several other homers had the same issues with their Hadleys. As El Blingon said, those tabs were just for convenience of aligning the wheel in the frame....another nice touch by Dave, if I must say so myself!
Despite CC's usual rock solid advice of filing down their hubs vs. the frame, they listened to Dave instead and filed/dremeled down the frame and voila!.....presto magic.
You know, I don't know much about most things, but the stuff I know too much about, well, I'm a real geek about that kinda chit, and I don't mind edumacting you ignorant savages sometimes.
I'm an aerospace genius. Get over it.
Zilla, Rene no doubt uses co axial from the propeller to the blue ray infra red visor on that there helmet you mention, course, blue tooth would be more this century but co axial is pretty reliable, your TV aerial is probably still using it, well mine is but then this is NZ and I am in the ****
For the record, I was thinking of the drop-outs no longer being co-planar :idea:
If you have co-planar drop-outs and bearings that aren't co-axial... well thats a different thread.
Hate to join the armchair engineers here, but there's WAY less than 50% of the hub cone contacting the inside face of the dropout in that picture. Bear in mind that the lip is just that, a lip. In reality the only contact that exists between the two is a narrow line around the circumference of the hub cone contacting said lip.
My DHR on Hope bulb is the same, and I've often thought that it can't be good for rear end stiffness. Unfortunately, sheer laziness has me yet to do anything about it.
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