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Which to change first?

1K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  calenerd 
#1 ·
Hey guys. If I had a Deore Rear Derailuer, Acera shifters, Acera crankset and Acera Front.D, which of these should I aim to change first? Would it be one of the Acera parts(which?) or the Deore rear derailuer since its the most important part amongst the 4.
 
#2 ·
If they're all working fine then don't bother. Unless you are completely in love with your frame, ride it like you stole it and replace as you break.

If you got your heart set on it though, cranks would probably be the thing to lighten up the bike. Deore RD is a legit, it takes abuse well and still performs.
 
#3 ·
You've fallen to a common misconception, but the shifter would generally be considered more important than the derailleur. The derailleur pretty much just does what the shifter tells it to do, so you'll feel a greater difference upgrading the shifter than upgrading the derailleur, especially as you've already jumped into the Deore line-up with your current mech.
 
#4 ·
If it is working OK, why change?

Out of the things you listed, I'd rate cranks the most important, but even there: keep it until it starts misbehaving.
 
#7 ·
Good advise from ncfisherman....

In one jump from the Whahoo to the Marlin you'd be getting better shifters (deore), better front derailleur (deore), a drive train upgrade to 9 speed which is more common with many more higher end parts available as opposed to 8 speed. You'd also be getting a better fork and better brakes whether you go with the disc model or the rim brake model. And an added bonus if you are going with the rim brake model, the Marlin rim brake model comes with Shimano center lock disc hubs so that a future upgrade to discs is easier and cheaper.

Granted the Marlin is a $200 jump up in price over the Wahoo. But try upgrading the components that you'll be bumping up the scale to have the Wahoo match the Marlin and I think you'll find it would cost you WAY more than $200 to do it on your own or even at the shop.

It is ALWAYS cheaper to by the bike with the components on it that you want than it is to upgrade later. :thumbsup:

Good Dirt
 
#8 ·
Yea I know that, but I'm just thinking of like upgrading 1 part or so, and that's it. And over here, the transportation costs and weaker exchange rate makes it quick a big jump IMHO, from $800 on the Wahoo to $1150 at least on the Marlin(non-disc). Plus, I can't afford the extra $350 sadly.
 
#10 ·
Its just 1 part, not all, so I don't see why I'd be wasting money, since I'd only be forking out a lil extra for 1 part minus the price of the old part. Plus, I'm entering the army in April so I don't have much time left, since I'd only be released from the camp only during the weekends...
 
#12 ·
Take it as it is and ride.
Then you can change parts later when they wear out.

If you have to get some upgrade now, get LX/SLX cranks. Derailers and shifters are not all that expensive to switch later on when you break them.
 
#13 ·
SteveUK said:
You've fallen to a common misconception, but the shifter would generally be considered more important than the derailleur. The derailleur pretty much just does what the shifter tells it to do, so you'll feel a greater difference upgrading the shifter than upgrading the derailleur, especially as you've already jumped into the Deore line-up with your current mech.
Very good advice. Too many people put too much emphasis on the derailleur itself.

Like someone else pointed out, I would not bother changing stuff unless it starts to wear out. Upgrading this Acera drivetrain piece by piece before it's time will end up costing a lot of money. You are better off just saving for a better equipped bike.

If you are at all unsatisfied with the way the bike shifts, the most effective and cheapest thing to do first is change the cables and housing and make sure everything is adjusted properly. Too many people spend too much money on "upgrades" when the shifting gets bad. The performance does usually improve with the upgrade, but that is often more due to the cables and housing being changed in the process.
 
#14 ·
calenerd said:
Its just 1 part, not all, so I don't see why I'd be wasting money, since I'd only be forking out a lil extra for 1 part minus the price of the old part. Plus, I'm entering the army in April so I don't have much time left, since I'd only be released from the camp only during the weekends...
You are wasting money because you would be better of saving the $ until something breaks or you find something that through your own experience you don't like.

If you really want to spend some extra money, spend it on better tires, THOSE make a difference.
 
#17 ·
Get the bike and ride it as is. If you want to drop and extra $30 into it get yourself a set of IRC Mibro 2.25's or 2.1's (tires). Inexpensive, light, and will give you the biggest performance improvement for $30 or so. You'll shave off quite a bit of rotational weight.
 
#18 ·
go ahead, upgrade 1 part. It's a waste of money regardless of what you change. Drivetrain is the LEAST important part of the bike. Frame fit, suspension, wheels and tires, and brakes.
 
#23 ·
For roads and firm compacted sand, something that has an (almost) continuous strip in the center would work. Some deeper pattern towards the sides would help on more loose surfaces.
I've used this for roads, dirt roads and easy trails:
https://www.suomityres.com/ut2.html
 
#24 ·
for hard pack/road riding i use a maxxis worm drive its a textured slick in the middle,and has side cleats for bite. when im to lazy to change for light trails i just lower the psi to 35 and it hooks up ok. but on the road i run 50-55 and its great low rolling resistant tire for me.and at 1.90 size is much lighter than my 2.1 irc piranha pros. id agree with going better tires or saddle at first. cuase drivetrain stuff even if some of it is acera its still new and should be thrashed first then upgrade:thumbsup:
 
#26 ·
But that is the general idea. Quite likely, you can find something in that direction.

You say that most of your riding is on hard surfaces. Better use something that works there.
 
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