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climbing tips

1K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  lampy29 
#1 ·
Hi all, I just began mountain biking in the last few months and do most of my riding at Paris Mountain in Greenville, SC. I have trouble climbing and at Paris Mountain, that includes rocks and roots at the same time.

I've figured out the lowest gear for both front and back gears (for lack of knowing their technical terms) is really helpful (before I left the front in the middle gear and would put the rear in the smallest) and my instinct is to stand up and peddle. The problem with this is often my back tire spins out and there goes any efficiency, but I "feel" like I have more power standing and more control over the bike negotiating roots & rocks as I encounter them during the climb.

I would really love to get other's advice on the proper techniques for this kind of climbing in an effort to get to the top in the most efficient manner and the least amount of spills :)

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
mtb_rider said:
Hi all, I just began mountain biking in the last few months and do most of my riding at Paris Mountain in Greenville, SC. I have trouble climbing and at Paris Mountain, that includes rocks and roots at the same time.

I've figured out the lowest gear for both front and back gears (for lack of knowing their technical terms) is really helpful (before I left the front in the middle gear and would put the rear in the smallest) and my instinct is to stand up and peddle. The problem with this is often my back tire spins out and there goes any efficiency, but I "feel" like I have more power standing and more control over the bike negotiating roots & rocks as I encounter them during the climb.

I would really love to get other's advice on the proper techniques for this kind of climbing in an effort to get to the top in the most efficient manner and the least amount of spills :)

Thanks!
It takes practice, but these things will help you:

- Pick your line through the obstacles, even walk it first to check it out.
- try not to be in a "too easy gear" this varies for people, but generally speaking its better to be able to "torque" or even ratchet over obstacles, if the gear is too easy I find my self "spinning out" ie the pedals turn too quickly then I promptly lose momentum and traction. (one of the reasons I went 1X9)
- Be light on your bike, lift the front over obstacles, use momentum to get the rear over the same, move your weight around to aid traction where needed.
- If you fail, go down and try again (its funny when people "session" tricky climbs :p )
 
#12 ·
V2PRODUCTS said:
I just learned this one and it was a huge help on steep climbs ....... when going into a big climb wrap your thumbs over the top of the bars. It worked wonders for me. Gives me a better ridding position, better weight distribution and less lifting.
Thats probably not a good idea on technical climbs like the OP is asking about (at least I assume they are not, may his idea of technical is a little different then mine) because you would loose so much control over your bike and risk having the bars pulled out from under you... actually it just sounds suicidal for anything but riding on the road... :eek:
 
#14 ·
mtb_rider said:
Hi all, I just began mountain biking in the last few months and do most of my riding at Paris Mountain in Greenville, SC. I have trouble climbing and at Paris Mountain, that includes rocks and roots at the same time.

I've figured out the lowest gear for both front and back gears (for lack of knowing their technical terms) is really helpful (before I left the front in the middle gear and would put the rear in the smallest) and my instinct is to stand up and peddle. The problem with this is often my back tire spins out and there goes any efficiency, but I "feel" like I have more power standing and more control over the bike negotiating roots & rocks as I encounter them during the climb.

I would really love to get other's advice on the proper techniques for this kind of climbing in an effort to get to the top in the most efficient manner and the least amount of spills :)

Thanks!
Depending on the climb, standing and pushing a higher (bigger) gear can get you to the top faster. However, on long climbs, it is more energy efficient to sit and spin. Then again, I'm often one of the guys waiting at the top of the climb while the gearies spin their way up.

Since I ride rigid singlespeeds, standing is the only option- you can adjust your body position over the rear tire to aid traction- standing also allows the bike to move under your to get over stuff. You can also "shove" the bike up over stuff easier when standing.

Standing and pulling back and down on the bars with each pedal stroke gets you incredible traction.
 
#16 ·
essenmeinstuff said:
Thats probably not a good idea on technical climbs like the OP is asking about (at least I assume they are not, may his idea of technical is a little different then mine) because you would loose so much control over your bike and risk having the bars pulled out from under you... actually it just sounds suicidal for anything but riding on the road... :eek:
I am far from riding on the road. I used this at cowls mnt/pyle peak and it worked GREAT for me. It is a very technical long climb. I have very minimal control loss? Have you ever tried it? You just lose some leverage or strength to lift up on the bars. So if you have to lift the front over water bars, obsticals ect. then i can see where you are coming from. When that situation comes up i simply move my thumbs back under. Its VERY SIMPLE AND EASY. I have only been on a mountain bike for 3 months and this helped me alot. So just passing the info on. Maybe the bike control comes from bmx and motocross all my life? Either way try it and it is FAR FROM SUICIDAL?
 
#17 ·
If you are an experienced rider definitely consider going clipless. These beauties make it insanely easy to climb and will make your rides much faster and more controlled they are amazing.

Also, depending on how 'in to' mtb you are, you can consider doing some weights when you go to the gym to strengthen your legs. Only three weeks made an enormous difference for my climbing. This is something to consider...
 
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