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Shimano Saint Crank Issues

2K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  mewholobo 
#1 ·
I just a purchased a brand new set of New Old Stock Shimano Saints from JensonUSA.

When I installed the cranks on my Surly Instigator frame which is 73mm, I couldn't use any of the spacers on the drive side because my front derailleur wouldn't shift properly.

Going without any spacers put my shifting in perfect align.

I installed the cranks properly, but the non drive side crank fell off.

Do I have to use spacers in order to make the system work
 
#2 ·
The only reason the crank arm would come off is because it wasnt bolted on properly. Go back and forth between both bolts tightening each one gradually, use a torque wrench if you have one. And, if your derailleur is having problems shifting with the spacers on there, the problem is most likely your derailleur or the adjustment. The spacers are supposed to be used for a reason.
 
#3 ·
Youre supposed to use one spacer.... I don't think its going to matter if you leave it off, but you might not be able to tighten the plastic cap bolt that goes on the non-drive side arm because it will bottom before tightening all the way. If this is the case, try useing the spacer on the non-drive side. The plastic bolt is very low torque, be careful not to overtighten, then tighten the 2 pinch bolts on the non-ds crankarm carefully. Its an improvement to get longer bolts for this, but you don't have to if you torque it on just right.

Bottom line: if you tighten the plastic cap and there is still side-to-side play you need to use the spacer.
 
#4 ·
My preload cap is aluminum, not plastic. You defintiely have to have the preload cap. It helps tighten everything up and take the side to side play out, and prevents the crank from falling off. After the preload cap is tightened, you alternate tightening the pinch bolts. The pinchbolts squeeze the crank onto the spindle, and actually the crank holds that pinchbolt in place too, so it cannot spin or fall off.
 
#5 ·
XSL_WiLL said:
My preload cap is aluminum, not plastic. You defintiely have to have the preload cap. It helps tighten everything up and take the side to side play out, and prevents the crank from falling off. After the preload cap is tightened, you alternate tightening the pinch bolts. The pinchbolts squeeze the crank onto the spindle, and actually the crank holds that pinchbolt in place too, so it cannot spin or fall off.
you totally undo the preload cap and leave it in your tool box once the pinch bolts are done up properly without the crank falling off of any problems
 
#7 ·
exvitermini said:
you totally undo the preload cap and leave it in your tool box once the pinch bolts are done up properly without the crank falling off of any problems
If you tighten the bolts correctly, the outside bolt will hold the preload cap in place and tight.
Always Always Always grease the preload cap before tightening, this helps to keep it from falling off as well.
 
#9 ·
Hey this same thing was happening to me.
I bought the crankset from Jenson too.
I just sent it back to them hoping Shimano will work with them on a warranty.
I had the cranks installed by a bike mechanic correctly and myself several times torque'n the heck out of em, Mechanic even bet me a beer it would stay on.....

Its funny the bolts get tight (even the longer ones), but after an hour or so on the trail the crank arm just rocks away from the bb.

Might give Jenson a call and tell them you've heard of this happening with someone else and see what they say about maybe getting something different.
Since I bought mine like four months ago I think they are less likely to work something out for me quickly.
However I have had good customer service from Jenson in the past and I'm sure it will get worked out.
Keep us up to date with what you figure out!
 
#12 ·
The Spacer Must Be the Problem

I'm usually a pretty good mechanic. I installed these cranks by the book, they are pretty simple in those regards. I think the spacer must be needed in order to tighten everything down properly. When I used any spacer at all on the drive-side, my derailleur wouldn't even shift to the middle ring. The front derailleur wasn't out of tune, it just didn't have enough reach to make the connection. I tightened the crank arm bolts properly. I think that without a spacer you can't get the plastic end cap on the non-drive crank arm to tighten properly. When the non-drive side crank arm fell off, the two crank arm bolts were still tight. I'll have to run the spacer on the non-drive side.

Thanks for the info everyone.
 
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