did you center the caliper yet? if not losten the caliper and squeeze the brake and tighten the caliper while you hold the lever...the pads will center the caliper and that may or may not help your problem
Basically that adapter is so you can use the larger rotor. The caliper would bolt directly to the fork, but then you would have to use a smaller rotor.
I got the same type of adapter on my 66RC2X using shimano brakes.
There is a adjust screw in the lever it self pg 8 of your manual, like the older hayes or as magura use look under the lever back up towards the bearing pivot. I doubtif this is your rub issue though, have you faced the mounts, not so imperative for PM but always do it, when you pull in on the lever to align the caliper you don't need too much pressure just enough so you can't torque the caliper bolts.
Set test then maybe redo this a couple of times, this is what I did then I had drag free performance, I then adjust the adjust reach srew in the lever as I like my levers further away from the bar, and then adjust the pad adjust again I like my pads to engage early.
You should have no rub these are very easy to setup.
while I have you guys involved in my Code thread....
has anyone ever bled them yet?
I'm thinking my front line is a little too long out of the box.
Is this a 1 man job (considering I've never bled brakes before)?
As long as you don't drip any fluid out of the line, or squeeze any fluid out of the MC, you don't need to bleed. You will need to have a extra barb and compresion olive though. It's best just to have the Avid bleed kit on hand.
THE KNOB DOES NOT AFFECT PAD ENGAGEMENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Read the manual. The knob only affects the lever throw, not reach. Throw and reach are independent of each other. The pistons are self-adjusting.
So what exactly is the knob having an affect on? When I transport my bike I put the red shipping shim between the pads just in case I have one of those oh **** moments. I have to move the knob or the shim refuses to fit in between the pads. Once I have adjusted the knob, the shim will fit. So, since it seems that the pads are in a different position when I move the knob, what exactly is happening if you guys are stating that it only has an affect on lever throw? I have read the manual...
And I just did a bleed on the rear brake for the first time and even though there were a few minor problems, the end result is excellent. I don't know why I waited so long or why LBS' charge so much for such a simple procedure.
Your codes came with an extra barb and olive. it's in the bag that had the rotor bolts and M6 bolts along with your adapter.
to shorten the lines without bleeding you just unscrew, line from lever, chop line to desired length, screw in the barb (yes the barb screws in.. it uses the t10 torx wrench) throw on the olive and tighten it back up in the lever. 9/10 times i haven't needed to bleed the brake after shortening the line on an avid brake.
and to the person talking about facing brake tabs - I haven't found a tool to face post mount tabs yet.
the code's are kinda cool that even if it's a very light drag on the rotor the pads will self adjust.
And I just did a bleed on the rear brake for the first time and even though there were a few minor problems, the end result is excellent. I don't know why I waited so long or why LBS' charge so much for such a simple procedure.
The reason a bike shop has to charge what they charge is due to problems that may occur during the bleeding. Some times a quick bleed will take care of the problem, but other times it may take three tries to get it just right. Then you have to factor in the overhead of havng a shop and the fact that you have to back it up. I am all for people learning to bleed brakes themselves, but when they need a shop to do it, I think the price is very reasonable
the pads dont move, maybe you pushed them out with the shim the first time and didnt realize it? I dont know...
the knob is just a little "screw" on the lever, that moves the push rod/MC piston in the lever, notice when you move the red knob that the 2mm allen bolt (push rod if you will) moves!
pads dont move..
I completely believe you about the knob not directly retracting the pads (even the manual says that it adjusts the lever), but the shim refuses to fit between the pads until I move the red knob towards the 'in' direction. If you have some Codes, try it yourself. The rear caliper acts the same way. Something else must be going on.
Also, I understand the idea of overhead, etc. when running a small business. I just think that people shouldn't be put off by something as easy as bleeding brakes because of shop charges. If a shop tells you that they are charging $30.00 for the job then you probably think that it is something that you can't handle yourself when in all reality it is. I just did some routine maintenance on my 2005 Nismo 4X4 Frontier that involved flushing the tranny fluid, replacing the fluid in the front and rear diffs, oil change, air filter change, etc. The cost of parts/fluid was VERY minimal and was something that I could handle with simple tools (i.e. no speciality tools). What the local dealers were charging for the same service was outrageous.
I completely believe you about the knob not directly retracting the pads (even the manual says that it adjusts the lever), but the shim refuses to fit between the pads until I move the red knob towards the 'in' direction. If you have some Codes, try it yourself. The rear caliper acts the same way. Something else must be going on.
When you turn the red knob "in" you are effectively making the brake line longer, which means when you slide the shim in, the fluid has a little extra space to move into. If you don't turn the knob, the fluid has nowhere to go so you can't fit the shim in.
I would bleed them reguardless if I were you, its super easy. When i got my codes they felt a bit spungy and sure enough after i hooked up the bleed kit, tons of air bubbles. I bled them 3 times before I got them exactly where I wanted them. I know ive seen a transparent view of the codes so you can see how they actually work on this site...kinda cool i thought.
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