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new VP Free build..s l o w l y moving along...

2K views 27 replies 14 participants last post by  freeriderB 
#1 ·
So far:
07 VP free 1 1/8 - medium polished...slick!
Mavic deemax wheels
07 Marz RC2X VA - chosen thanks to many recommendations on the boards....

Spring is coming...time to step up the new parts inventory...

coming soon...cranks, brakes, handlebar
 

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#4 ·
thats gonna be a really nice build. Just some advice, i know some people with the mavic deemaxes and many other mavic tubeless wheelsets and the only way that they keep the spokes from loosening up is to threadlock the spoke nipples in. It will definetly make your wheels last alot longer. Good luck with your build!
 
#12 ·
longer stroke

Phi.Design said:
Very Nice! My friend has a VP Free and he loves it. I think he has a longer stroke DHX 5.0 on it cuz it gets 9.5". Is that a common mod? Very fun, smooth and flickable ride!
I have never heard this....If it's true I'm all over it.
Can you verify somehow the stroke used to increase the travel?
 
#15 ·
freeriderB said:
I have never heard this....If it's true I'm all over it.
Can you verify somehow the stroke used to increase the travel?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't you need a shock stroke of a lil over 3" to achieve 9.5" of travel. My frame don't look like it'll stand a shock that long.
 
#19 ·
Um. Right now, at 8.5" of travel, the swingarm gets to very minute clearances with the seat tube, (the little "V" looking brace on the swingarm, when fully compresssed from the factory with no spring on the shock). So I would have to say that it is imposible to throw a longer stroke shock on it, because once it blows through about 8.75", there goes a big ol' dent in your seattube. Keep it stock, 8.5" is plenty.

On another note, Sick build. Vps are the shiz. Take the advice with the deemax. Threadlock the spokes. as an experience wheelbuilder it helps in the logevity a lot!
 
#20 ·
stupid question...

chooofoojoo said:
Um. Right now, at 8.5" of travel, the swingarm gets to very minute clearances with the seat tube, (the little "V" looking brace on the swingarm, when fully compresssed from the factory with no spring on the shock). So I would have to say that it is imposible to throw a longer stroke shock on it, because once it blows through about 8.75", there goes a big ol' dent in your seattube. Keep it stock, 8.5" is plenty.

On another note, Sick build. Vps are the shiz. Take the advice with the deemax. Threadlock the spokes. as an experience wheelbuilder it helps in the logevity a lot!
would I have to "back" the spokes out completely in order to add the threadlock?
Or are you saying just apply a drop of threadlock to the spoke when the spokes are tensioned?
I'm not a wheelbuilder, so I am EXTREMELY hesitant to start loosening spokes on a brand new Deemax wheel.
 
#21 ·
Well, as it's already built, it's hard to use spoke-prep or locktite in this case, but what you could do, is put the wheel on a truing stand, and take each spoke, and back them out a SMALL BIT, dab a bit of blue locktite on it (i wouldn't use red, as it's too powerful and when you true or re-tension your wheel you might end up snapping a spoke instead of turning it). Once you locktite it, screw it back into the nipple, and re-tension it until it is trued, dished, and in round properly, then move to the next spoke. Take EXTRA caution when you loosen each spoke as to how many turns you make, so you can make sure to keep it in round. I would also suggest doing one spoke, and skipping a few, and going in a pattern as you work your way around the wheel.

It's a lot of careful and time consuming work would go into this, and I would advise taking it to a shop to have it done, if you don't fee comfortable doing it yourself.

Another option would be, to ride the rims un-locktited, and once the rims set in (the spokes stretch and de-tension) take it to your shop to tension up and have them put a drop on em when they true them up.
 
#22 ·
loc tite

chooofoojoo said:
Well, as it's already built, it's hard to use spoke-prep or locktite in this case, but what you could do, is put the wheel on a truing stand, and take each spoke, and back them out a SMALL BIT, dab a bit of blue locktite on it (i wouldn't use red, as it's too powerful and when you true or re-tension your wheel you might end up snapping a spoke instead of turning it). Once you locktite it, screw it back into the nipple, and re-tension it until it is trued, dished, and in round properly, then move to the next spoke. Take EXTRA caution when you loosen each spoke as to how many turns you make, so you can make sure to keep it in round. I would also suggest doing one spoke, and skipping a few, and going in a pattern as you work your way around the wheel.

It's a lot of careful and time consuming work would go into this, and I would advise taking it to a shop to have it done, if you don't fee comfortable doing it yourself.

Another option would be, to ride the rims un-locktited, and once the rims set in (the spokes stretch and de-tension) take it to your shop to tension up and have them put a drop on em when they true them up.
thanks for the info...
I'll ride the rims as is...then have my LBS blue loc tite when the wheel has set.
I know all too well the power of the RED loctite!
 
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