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New guy: did i just waste $50???

2K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  rhd 
#1 ·
I've got an early 00's Trek model 7000 (just picked it up for $125) and the stock fork, i assume it's stock at least, is messed up in the manor that the stiffness adjustement does not work. I can turn it towards stiff all day...and it never stops or really gets much stiffer. So...being the guy i am, i started cruising ebay and came accross this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...30027223351&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1 , ok, so...yeah...i won it. I mean.....is this worth a damn, or did i just kinda toss $50 to the wind?

any advice? should i run it...should I try to sell it? is my manitou sx fixable? am I even making sense?
 
#2 ·
rhd said:
I've got an early 00's Trek model 7000 (just picked it up for $125) and the stock fork, i assume it's stock at least, is messed up in the manor that the stiffness adjustement does not work. I can turn it towards stiff all day...and it never stops or really gets much stiffer. So...being the guy i am, i started cruising ebay and came accross this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...30027223351&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1 , ok, so...yeah...i won it. I mean.....is this worth a damn, or did i just kinda toss $50 to the wind?

any advice? should i run it...should I try to sell it? is my manitou sx fixable? am I even making sense?
er.... this is why new riders should find a local shop they're comfortable with.

The chances are good that you got a great deal. Except the travel on the Bomber is 73 mm (3 inches). If your current fork is also 73 mm, you're fine. If your current fork is 100 mm (4 inches), then your bike's geometry will be affected.

Even if the fork has blown seals or is otherwise not functioning properly (assuming that it's not physically broken) Marzocchi supports their older designs with spare parts and service. You did OK.
 
#3 ·
it says that the fork i won is 65mm....
i'll have to check what the stock one is.

mainly...i just want a fork that can be as close to rigid as possible...since all i can really do right now is ride up and down my rode (asthma is REALLY bad this time of year for me...i can't do anything major...mostly just golf and building cars til it gets warmer)
 
#5 ·
rhd said:
it says that the fork i won is 65mm....
i'll have to check what the stock one is.

mainly...i just want a fork that can be as close to rigid as possible...since all i can really do right now is ride up and down my rode (asthma is REALLY bad this time of year for me...i can't do anything major...mostly just golf and building cars til it gets warmer)
Then you'll be fine. Even if the fork has blown seals, you'll be able to get it rebuilt and you'll still have a great fork.

The 65 mm ensures that your bike's geometry will rake forward (you'll be leaning over the front of your bike more). It's not a huge deal but you'll likely notice the difference.

Regarding your original fork: It's more than likely a low end elastomer suspended fork. Which means that you're not going to get much adjustment from the "adjustment" knobs.
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
i'll try the new fork out....and if it's not what i like...i'll just toss it back on ebay and try to get what i have in it back otu of it....no biggie

as for the stock fork...the only reason i think it's broken is because my friend jason orginially bought the bike (he paid like $1080 for it up in boone, nc) and rode it, literally, 3 miles total. I grabbed it off him and when i first got it...the fork would get stiff....and it was nice, but now..it just stays spongy constantly (i've not ridden more than 10 miles i'd say on it)
 
#8 ·
If your Trek has a Manitou on it, the elastomer in the coil / elastomer spring stack might be stuffed. That could explain the reason it wouldn't go "hard." Bear in mind that you can't make a fork much "stiffer" just by winding the preload dials - to do that you need to fit a harder spring. An easy job if you know how, or for a bike shop.

Elastomers are like a stiff sort of foam sausage, and act as a spring. It's not unusual for elastomers to either go hard to to rot and fall to bits after a couple of years. You might have been able to either get a new elastomer, or just put a 100% coil spring into it.

If your original fork is a Manitou SX, it likely has 80mm of travel.
 
#10 ·
My wife has that exact frame(in white) and the stock fork is a Manitou SX and it's 80mm travel and works great and has for the past 6 years. I lube it via the ports on each stanchion regularly and add come lube to the pistons on occasion.

To the person who thinks it's an entry level fork...you don't know what you're talking about. For the year '00 it was a medium level fork on a $1000 hardtail. Lots of folks raced them in the early '00's.
 
#11 ·
The fork, at that time, was not a lower end component. Mid range at worst. Lower upper end at best. The bike came with LX front derailleur, lx shifters/brake levers, xt rear dearilleur, bontrager race lite rims. The whole bike new weighed in at 23lbs. That so called lower end fork adjusts easy and rides very smooth if taken care of properly. Afraid you're a tad off base with you info on the fork Ken.
 
#12 ·
rhd said:
so...i should prob look for a coil conversion for it...and try to resell the new fork i bought?
If the Manitou is in good condition otherwise, with no obvious bushing slop, all you really need is the correct rate coil spring for it. From memory the SX used a spring in one leg, with the damping circuit in the other.

Nothing wrong with the Marzocchi you bought, but 80mm is better than 65, and those SX's were very nice in their day, and buttery smooth.
 
#13 ·
As usual, you're way off base, Fred...

fred3 said:
The fork, at that time, was not a lower end component. Mid range at worst. Lower upper end at best. The bike came with LX front derailleur, lx shifters/brake levers, xt rear dearilleur, bontrager race lite rims. The whole bike new weighed in at 23lbs. That so called lower end fork adjusts easy and rides very smooth if taken care of properly. Afraid you're a tad off base with you info on the fork Ken.
The fork is 7 years old. Just because your wife rides one doesn't negate the fact that the fork is 7 years old. I have a really sweet steal fork that's about 15 years old. It has a sweet rake to it and is ultra compliant. When it came out, it was top of the line. But it doesn't mean that it's still a great fork, Fred.

Is Manitou still using the same technology on their 07 forks? er.... no.........

Apples to apples, the marzocchi is a more robust fork with readily accessible replacement parts.

The OP bought the Marzocchi off Ebay for $50. Any takers out there for the 7-year old Manitou for the same price?
 
#14 ·
And as is common you didn't read what you wrote. "a nice frame and add lower end components on them (like the fork)." I didn't say it was good now. I said it was a good fork then and my wifes is still good. You're the one who said it was lower end component(like the fork). Come on Ken this isn't radio telemetry.
 
#15 ·
ok........so..now i'm even more lost, haha

anyone have any links to coil conversion kits? i can just install one myself and then choose the fork that feels better...i guess.

but, deff keep the info coming!!
 
#16 ·
Can't find any reference to SX spring kits. Usually, a similar length spring from another fork can be used. A spring stack from something like a Manitou Six or Axel might fit - they can be found online via Googling. You would need to know the length of the original spring stack. Then you'd need to work out what sprin gweight you need to suit your weight etc. Sometimes bike shops have a few stray fork springs lying around they might let you try out.
 
#17 ·
Sideknob said:
Can't find any reference to SX spring kits. Usually, a similar length spring from another fork can be used. A spring stack from something like a Manitou Six or Axel might fit - they can be found online via Googling. You would need to know the length of the original spring stack. Then you'd need to work out what sprin gweight you need to suit your weight etc. Sometimes bike shops have a few stray fork springs lying around they might let you try out.
wow....it just becomes more and more complicated, haha.... I'll look around, i might just buy another 80mm fork...seems to be the easiest method
 
#18 ·
Sorry I didn't slow down for you, Fred...

fred3 said:
And as is common you didn't read what you wrote. "a nice frame and add lower end components on them (like the fork)." I didn't say it was good now. I said it was a good fork then and my wifes is still good. You're the one who said it was lower end component(like the fork). Come on Ken this isn't radio telemetry.
I'm also sorry you took offense at me disparging your wife's fork. No offense, umkay? The point that obviously zoomed right over your head is that the fork isn't worth saving. But thanks for getting in to a semantics debate on the Beginner's Forum. You're really smart and stuff.

rhd: The Manitou is great fork (according to Fred) for it's day. An Escort is a fine car when it's new.

The Marzocchi was a great fork in it's day and it's a classic today. A 69 Chevelle may not have modern components, but it's still a classic.

So if you blow the engine in the Escort, you throw the car away because the replacement cost of the engine isn't worth the value of the car. If you blow the engine in the Chevelle, you rebuild the engine.

The Marzocchi is worth rebuilding, the Manitou isn't. The Marzocchi will do exactly
what you need it to do for the (mostly) paved riding you're doing with the bike.

Ken
 
#19 ·
rhd said:
wow....it just becomes more and more complicated, haha.... I'll look around, i might just buy another 80mm fork...seems to be the easiest method
Not really. There are workshop manuals onlne for this fork. It's not hard to screw a top cap off and slide out the spring stack and have a look. That makes it easy to try different spring stacks as I said some shops have a bucketload of them from wrecked forks, springs they have changed over for customers etc.

Does the fork feel OK apart from being too soft for your purpose? If so, I'd perservere with it. Unless you outlay a fair bit more moeny, you won't really get anything much better. If it feels OK, I'd sell that 63mm Marzocchi and get the 80mm Manitou running right.
 
#20 ·
Why?

Sideknob said:
Can't find any reference to SX spring kits. Usually, a similar length spring from another fork can be used. A spring stack from something like a Manitou Six or Axel might fit - they can be found online via Googling. You would need to know the length of the original spring stack. Then you'd need to work out what sprin gweight you need to suit your weight etc. Sometimes bike shops have a few stray fork springs lying around they might let you try out.
Quoting the great sage, Butthead, "You can't polish a turd, Beavis."

The fork is 7 years old, has ragged out, non-functioning internals and based on your search, Manitou doesn't offer replacement parts. So how much time is it worth to run around trying to rig springs to work? Why not just replace the broken, no longer supported component and ride your bike?

Would you replace the tube in a 7 year old television or would you just buy another one?

Ken
 
#21 ·
Ken in KC said:
Quoting the great sage, Butthead, "You can't polish a turd, Beavis."

The fork is 7 years old, has ragged out, non-functioning internals and based on your search, Manitou doesn't offer replacement parts. So how much time is it worth to run around trying to rig springs to work? Why not just replace the broken, no longer supported component and ride your bike?

Would you replace the tube in a 7 year old television or would you just buy another one?

Ken
He's paid $125 for the whole bike.

A brand new fork is how much??

The term "overcapitalising" comes to mind.
 
#22 ·
Sideknob said:
He's paid $125 for the whole bike.

A brand new fork is how much??

The term "overcapitalising" comes to mind.
very true..i mean, i could easily go out and buy a fox or the like...but i'm TRYING to stay within a tight budget on the bike. I'll dissasemble my current fork tonight..and see i if can't rig soemthing up :thumbsup:
 
#26 ·
Sideknob said:
He's paid $125 for the whole bike.

A brand new fork is how much??

The term "overcapitalising" comes to mind.
Umm... $50?

I didn't suggest he buy a new fork. He's riding the bike on roads and bike paths. A rigid fork would be fine. But he has the Marzocchi. Which despite its reduced travel, is a much better fork than the Manitou. Especially since the Manitou is broken.
 
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