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Help with a new FR/DH build.

2K views 39 replies 11 participants last post by  cummings 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm building my first FR/DH bike, based around an '05 Dirtbag frame with 7 inches of rear travel. I'm currently riding an '04 Iron Horse Hollowpoint (which I love!) and have no plans on getting rid of it. As such, this new ride will be devoted to FR/DH. But, I still need to be able to trail ride this thing to a certain degree, if for no other reason than to get to the goods. I really don't know much about components for this type of build, and so I'm looking for suggestions on everything: from bottom brackets to handle bars, and all the bits in between. Basically, I'm trying to keep this thing reasonably light (i.e. - sub 40lbs), but still strong enough to take some abuse.

Forks: How much travel is appropriate for this frame? 7 inches? 8 inches? I'm thinking single crown: like some kind of Marzocchi 66. But do I need coils, or can one of the air versions get the job done? Or should I go DC; maybe a Fox 40 if I can find a lightly used bargain somewhere?

What about cranks? Do I really need a chain guide, or can I run a triple up front???

And wheels! Holy cow, I've looked at how much those DH wheels weigh. Is it really necessary to run 6 lbs worth of wheels(not including tires!), or is there some light but strong alternative?

Oh yeah, and what about stem length and rise? I run a Thomson on my Hollowpoint (110mm/5 degree), and it's really sweet. But I know this is probably to long for this type of build.

Anyway, yada, yada, yada... I think you can see where I'm at (can you say total newbie???).

TIA for any and all input. This forum has been a great source of information so far!

-Guy
 
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#2 ·
7-8 inches of travel would be fine; unless you are over 250 lbs, a newer air fork like the 66 Lite, Pike Air, or 36 Air would be ideal for what you are looking for. I would look for something w/ travel adjustment (ETA, U-Turn, etc.) for pedaling uphill. I would suggest running a chainguide of some type, unless you like to stop every two minutes during your runs to replace your chain. I would suggest running a dual-ring guide like an e.13 DRS, MRP system 2 or Truvativ shuftguide.
Things you could go lighter on - stem, bars, cranks, wheelset (depending on how you ride). I would lean towards parts such as wheelset that are on the AM or lighter end of DH spec vs. XC, though. Stem length and rise depend upon personal preference and frame fit, but I would recommend going 80mm or shorter on the length. Good luck!
 
#5 ·
marsb said:
7-8 inches of travel would be fine; unless you are over 250 lbs, a newer air fork like the 66 Lite, Pike Air, or 36 Air would be ideal for what you are looking for. I would look for something w/ travel adjustment (ETA, U-Turn, etc.) for pedaling uphill. I would suggest running a chainguide of some type, unless you like to stop every two minutes during your runs to replace your chain. I would suggest running a dual-ring guide like an e.13 DRS, MRP system 2 or Truvativ shuftguide.
Things you could go lighter on - stem, bars, cranks, wheelset (depending on how you ride). I would lean towards parts such as wheelset that are on the AM or lighter end of DH spec vs. XC, though. Stem length and rise depend upon personal preference and frame fit, but I would recommend going 80mm or shorter on the length. Good luck!
yea, I'd agree with every bit of this, its good advice. You were thinking of a Fox 40 up front? I think it would probably be too much for what you want from it. It's really an extremely stiff, 'hot knife through butter' 'big stuff' kind of fork aimed at riders who go very fast over very rough stuff. Unless you plan on racing DH or really getting into 'hucking' as they say then check it off your list. A smaller fork such as a boxxer U-turn, or a Marzocchi junior T might be good for you. Ask yourself: will you be aiming more downhill or more trail and decide between a triple clamp or single crown. Single might be good since you plan to reduce weight, so a 66 or RS pike, maybe manitou.
I'd recommend on two rings up front, and yes a chainguide will keep the chain where you want it. E-13 DRS system is ideal and its very light - made from lexan or something.
My know on wheels is limited so I'll leave it to someone else. All the other bits and bobs are really a case of pay more and get more, i.e greater reliability, reduced weight, increased strength, you know what I'm on about :cool:
Best
 
#6 · (Edited)
grahamjtriggs said:
yea, I'd agree with every bit of this, its good advice. You were thinking of a Fox 40 up front? I think it would probably be too much for what you want from it. It's really an extremely stiff, 'hot knife through butter' 'big stuff' kind of fork aimed at riders who go very fast over very rough stuff. Unless you plan on racing DH or really getting into 'hucking' as they say then check it off your list. A smaller fork such as a boxxer U-turn, or a Marzocchi junior T might be good for you. Ask yourself: will you be aiming more downhill or more trail and decide between a triple clamp or single crown. Single might be good since you plan to reduce weight, so a 66 or RS pike, maybe manitou.
I'd recommend on two rings up front, and yes a chainguide will keep the chain where you want it. E-13 DRS system is ideal and its very light - made from lexan or something.
My know on wheels is limited so I'll leave it to someone else. All the other bits and bobs are really a case of pay more and get more, i.e greater reliability, reduced weight, increased strength, you know what I'm on about :cool:
Best
Okay, let me clarify a little: My whole reason for building this bike is because I went to Whistler for the first time last month, and absolutely became hooked on lift-accessed DH type trail riding. But (obviously) I quickly discovered that my Hollowpoint simply wasn't up to the task! It simply couldn't handle the rough stuff at speed.

I'm keeping my Hollowpoint for aggressive trail riding, and am building up the Dirtbag in order to push my riding to the next level. I definitely plan on doing some bigger hit stuff, (drops, hucks, etc.), that is, bigger than I do now; but I'll be starting small, and working my way up. And I really love that DH shite! Wanna get better, faster, stronger!

So, this bike is meant to be something I can grow into; getter faster on; go bigger on; and generally push my riding to the next level. I don't want to build a dedicated DH rig right now, but rather something that I can do both DH and FR type stuff. Eventually, I'll build a rig that I'll only use to shuttle and ride lifts with. But right now, that's not practical. I need something I can ride at least partway to the top if I need to.

You mentioned the Junior T, but this seems to lack a bit adjustability. I'll check the reviews. Do people like this fork? I honestly see no point in buying components I'll just want to upgrade next year. And, will an air fork give me the kind plush performance that a coil will? I mean, I could sacrifice a little plushness as long as the overall performance was good for DH applications. Is a Boxxer or Junior T really smaller than a Fox 40? I thought the Fox weighs less either of those forks.

I'll look at the e.13 DRS. I know Weagle's stuff is good (I ride his DW Link), but are there other good alternatives? And what size chain rings do most people use on a bike like this? 22/32? Or...?
 
#7 ·
marsb said:
7-8 inches of travel would be fine; unless you are over 250 lbs, a newer air fork like the 66 Lite, Pike Air, or 36 Air would be ideal for what you are looking for. I would look for something w/ travel adjustment (ETA, U-Turn, etc.) for pedaling uphill. I would suggest running a chainguide of some type, unless you like to stop every two minutes during your runs to replace your chain. I would suggest running a dual-ring guide like an e.13 DRS, MRP system 2 or Truvativ shuftguide.
Things you could go lighter on - stem, bars, cranks, wheelset (depending on how you ride). I would lean towards parts such as wheelset that are on the AM or lighter end of DH spec vs. XC, though. Stem length and rise depend upon personal preference and frame fit, but I would recommend going 80mm or shorter on the length. Good luck!
Okay, I'll check into the 66 Lite. I think the 36 doesn't have enough travel, nor the Pike. I think something with 170mm would be absolute minimum.

What craksets do you recommend? I'll probably go carbon on the seatpost and handlebars.

What about Mavic CrossLand wheels? Will they allow a me to run a big enough tire?
 
#9 ·
coma13 said:
what's your budget like?
I'd like to keep the build under $2k (not including the frame). If I can get it closer to $1500, all the better. I will say, I am a pretty savvy shopper, and I'm not afraid to buy used for certain things. I think the forks will be the biggest expense. If I can find a deal on some NOS forks, I think I can do the rest real nice for well under $1000.

I just built a bike up for my wife, and we spent under $1500 for everything, including a new '05 Marin Quad TARA frame, all XT components, AVID discs; nearly the same spec that Marin sells for $3000. Once again, this was using a wisely purchased mix of new and used parts. It's a very sweet trail bike. And super light for what it is.
 
#10 ·
I wouldn't use carbon on a free ride bike, you can't tell when it's stressed too much and it may fracture unexpectedly.
I bet the Marz 66 SL is exactly what your looking for, adjustable travel, air sprung or assisted, not sure which, light, and 170mm or travel. It would hold to freeride and dh as long as you aren't 190lbs +.
The Jr. T is not my fav. pick for duel crown forks, it feels like it locks up after a few good hits, and has a pogo stick feel to it on single big hits. I'd stear clear but that's just me.
As for cranksets, check out Truvativs Hussifelt or Holsifeller, good cranks for how much they are.
Your build will really depend on your budget.. how much are you spending?
 
#12 ·
fred.r said:
I wouldn't use carbon on a free ride bike, you can't tell when it's stressed too much and it may fracture unexpectedly.
Understood. But I know that Easton makes a DH specific carbon handlebar.

fred.r said:
I bet the Marz 66 SL is exactly what your looking for, adjustable travel, air sprung or assisted, not sure which, light, and 170mm or travel. It would hold to freeride and dh as long as you aren't 190lbs +.
Sounds like it might be the ticket. Is that new for '06, or did they make that last year? I ask because I've found great deals in the past on "last year's" model forks! And I only weigh in at 160lbs :)

fred.r said:
As for cranksets, check out Truvativs Hussifelt or Holsifeller, good cranks for how much they are.
Your build will really depend on your budget.. how much are you spending?
I like the TruVativ stuff; really great bargain. I run Stylos on my Hollowpoint, and they are very light, and plenty stiff for what I use that bike for.

As for budget, I posted that immediately above your post. I'm trying to keep it down to $1500 (not including the frame) but am willing to go as high as $2000 for a top-notch build. The deal I get on forks will kind of decide which end of that spectrum I end up at. I know with savvy shopping I can do a great build for under $1000 (not including the forks of course).

Thanks for the input!

-Guy
 
#13 ·
Magick Mountain said:
Sounds like it might be the ticket. Is that new for '06, or did they make that last year? I ask because I've found great deals in the past on "last year's" model forks! And I only weigh in at 160lbs :)
-Guy
The 66SL is new to 06, you can find deals on them, or some shops are letting them go new for $650 or something, I think retail was $750ish or something. You may find one used, who knows.
As for having a budget of $1500 or more for components you are golden, you have penty of room to pick and choose what you wan't if you find a good deal on a fork. Even if you pay $700 for a fork you are still in great shape.
I'd get an e13 DRS, holifeller cranks, sram x.9 shifters and derailurs, and like a loco wheelset to keep the cost down, good wheels still.
 
#14 ·
fred.r said:
The 66SL is new to 06, you can find deals on them, or some shops are letting them go new for $650 or something, I think retail was $750ish or something. You may find one used, who knows.
As for having a budget of $1500 or more for components you are golden, you have penty of room to pick and choose what you wan't if you find a good deal on a fork. Even if you pay $700 for a fork you are still in great shape.
I'd get an e13 DRS, holifeller cranks, sram x.9 shifters and derailurs, and like a loco wheelset to keep the cost down, good wheels still.
I'll probably go X.0 for shifters and rear derailurs. That's what I'm using on my trail bike, and they are uber sweet! We'll see how everything els goes though. X.9s are still very respectable. It's pretty easy to find deals on lightly used X.0s though.

Holifellers? Is that Race Face?
 
#17 ·
Magick Mountain said:
So, Fred, it appears you are a guitar player?

I'm a recording engineer/producer. The producer thing is kinda new in last couple years; but I've been working as an engineer for 17 years now.

Whatever... :)
That I am, I'm studying music as well, starting my masters program in a year or so. I know a few engineers, good money if you can get into the right studio or own your own.
Oh and about the x0 stuff, you may wan't to just save to dough on the x9 stuff, on a FR or DH rig you go threw derailurs much more often, I just snapped mine a few weeks ago, and I personally would be quite more bummed if I snapped my $199 Sram x0 derailer than my $65 x9. Maybe run the x0 shifters with the x9 derailer, that is something I may be thinking about in the distant future, just bent my x9 a bit a Mammoth and now it one levers sticks under the other lever sometimes, a bit of a pain.
 
#18 ·
fred.r said:
The 66SL is new to 06, you can find deals on them, or some shops are letting them go new for $650 or something, I think retail was $750ish or something. You may find one used, who knows.
As for having a budget of $1500 or more for components you are golden, you have penty of room to pick and choose what you wan't if you find a good deal on a fork. Even if you pay $700 for a fork you are still in great shape.
I'd get an e13 DRS, holifeller cranks, sram x.9 shifters and derailurs, and like a loco wheelset to keep the cost down, good wheels still.
I got my 66 brand new on ebay for 465. I just looked and you can still get one for that price.
 
#20 ·
fred.r said:
That I am, I'm studying music as well, starting my masters program in a year or so. I know a few engineers, good money if you can get into the right studio or own your own.
Oh and about the x0 stuff, you may wan't to just save to dough on the x9 stuff, on a FR or DH rig you go threw derailurs much more often, I just snapped mine a few weeks ago, and I personally would be quite more bummed if I snapped my $199 Sram x0 derailer than my $65 x9. Maybe run the x0 shifters with the x9 derailer, that is something I may be thinking about in the distant future, just bent my x9 a bit a Mammoth and now it one levers sticks under the other lever sometimes, a bit of a pain.
Good point. Probably best to go with the X.0 shifters, and an X.9 derailur. Most people seem to think that that setup is nearly indistinguishable from the pure X.0 setup.

As for the music/engineering: I started out as a musician from age 5, played in bands all through Jr. High and High School. Was a music major in college, then switched to music technology. Eventually went to a vocational school to learn recording engineering. Worked at a few studios over the years, and have owned my own place for about 4 years now. It's a mixed blessing: when I'm busy, the money's great; when not, it isn't :) Wouldn't trade any of it away though! I really love what I do!
 
#25 ·
Magick Mountain said:
Well I sure like it on my trail bike. Never been a problem. But I could see how using it on a FR bike might be a little iffy. I'll take the advice!
I have seen 3 locals go down from broken carbon bars.....very bad....one guy will never ride again (gun shy)
 
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