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Difference from 6 to 7 inches?

2K views 20 replies 16 participants last post by  shredder111 
#1 ·
Is there a really noticable difference in performance between a 6 inch to 7 inch bike? This is an example for freeride and downhill.


Thanks, Shredder111:cool:
 
#4 ·
As silly as it sounds, "quality" of travel plays a large roll too. I'm used to riding a 7"+ Bullit and recently rode a 6.3" Delirium. Even though the Delirium had less travel, it didn't stiffen up with the rear brake applied so it felt more active (basically like it had more travel) on steep trails.

If you are comparing two bikes with the same type of suspension, the extra inch will be noticable when plowing through rock gardes or when doing drops. It also is *probably* noticable in a negative way when climbing unless you have a good platform shock. The more suspension, usually the beefier the frame too, so the extra weight will be apparent on climbs (if climbing is something you plan to do on the bike).

My Bullit was originally a 6" bike and I was really happy with the change in ride quality when I put the 2.75" shock on it that gave me 7"+. Of course, since it was the same frame, I didn't have much of a weight penalty with the travel increase. Also, I was going from a Fox Vanilla RC with no platform to a Romic which was a huge climbing upgrade so it was a win-win upgrade.
 
#7 ·
i currently ride a Mt. Cycle rumble, with a Super T on it. before this bike, i had a 02 SGS G spot, totally built up, with over 8 inches of travel, blah blah blah. it was a tank. im sooo much happier with this bike its not even comparable. now, im not saying go buy a hardtail, but frame geometry, and as stated, quality of travel are far more important than pure measurements. if its possible to ride just as hard and fast on a Hardtail, a 1inch lack of travel is not important. things like wheelbase, weight, unsprung wieght, chainstay length, seat position, shock choice, and stiffness of the rear assembly are more important than 1 inch. so, pick accordingly.

also, with the hardtail, its much shorter overall, and is SOOOO much more nimble. where with the big bike i had no real option other than just plowing through stuff, with the hardtail, i am able to cut turns sharper and faster, and use my body more than i was allowed on the FS. it makes riding ALOT more fun. so go for the bike that fits your ridding style better.
 
#9 ·
I was just asking because I was wondering if it made sense to wait instead of getting an X6 (basically a Haro Extreme 2) and get a Stinky or something, but from what you guys wrote about travel/ what the X2 can take with 6 inches (10-15 footers), (in the other thread) than it all sounds reasonable:D I will stick with the Haro, or shouldn't I? I need quick replies because tommorow I am putting a down payment on the Haro X6.


Thanks, Shredder111:cool:

P.S. I know that the fork and brakes blow for downhill/ drops on the X6 but that will be replaced in the future very soon with hydraulics and a killer fork.
 
#11 ·
shredder111 said:
I was just asking because I was wondering if it made sense to wait instead of getting an X6 (basically a Haro Extreme 2) and get a Stinky or something, but from what you guys wrote about travel/ what the X2 can take with 6 inches (10-15 footers), (in the other thread) than it all sounds reasonable:D I will stick with the Haro, or shouldn't I? I need quick replies because tommorow I am putting a down payment on the Haro X6.

Thanks, Shredder111:cool:

P.S. I know that the fork and brakes blow for downhill/ drops on the X6 but that will be replaced in the future very soon with hydraulics and a killer fork.
WHat are you paying for the x6? Now figure in the cost to upgrade. If I was you I'd just save for the bike you really want, and know that can take the abuse. The x6 looks decent for trail, but you mention 15 footers above, I'd save a bit more and get something better. I had a friend tell me that Performance(bought out Supergo) down in SoCal has 2005 7point7's for $2600, with a $260 gift certificate towards gear. That X6 has to be around $1500 right? Do your homework before you buy a bike only to turn around and upgrade. If you slap some hydro's on it and a better fork, your looking at about a $600 upgrade min. and that's just some hayes 9's and a 2005 slider from jenson(or something along those lines) Wait another couple of weeks or month and get what you really want...

I'm in the same situation, I have enough for this, but I'm saving to get that type of a deal.

Edit: I see now what they run $989... I just googled a Kona Stinky, there' a deluxe 2005 on ebay brand new right now for $810, if you can get it for under $1400 you'd be way better off.
 
#13 ·
Already been said, but susupension performance is what to look at, not necessarily travel. I have ridden 7" bikes that bottomed easier and felt less plush than 4" bikes. It is way to easy to get caught up in the numbers game. Not long ago, 5" was considered impossibly long travel for any kind of bike. If you can't ride a bike, 7" of travel will not change that fact. If you can handle a bike well, 4"or 5" might be enough.

6" of well designed travel is plenty for most anything.
 
#14 ·
My bike has two configurations: 6 inch and 7 inch. Right now I'm running the 7Inch version and I'm lovin' it.

The differences were the overall feeling of dampning for me. I swapped out a Z150 for a Sherman Slider Plus, and changed the rear shock to the 7" setting and noticed a new sort of feeling to my bike. It was a lot mooshier suspension, it was slower rebound, and provided more sag all around. I really liked this setting because its pretty confidence inspiring on big hits and gnarly DH.

What I miss is the quick snappy agileness that the 6" setting and the Z150 offered. It was snappy and quick off jumps, berms, rollers etc. It wouldn't handle big hits and gnar DH like my 7" setup, but the quick and agileness of the 6" version was inspiring for all around riding.

The 7" version of my bike sort of opens the door to the world of DH bikes that absorb all the hits to dish out, but jumping and berms feel "heavy" if you get what I mean. My whole bike spends its energy compressing on the berms or jumps it just feels different (obviously). The 7" version comes in handy when you need to let go of the brakes on a gnarly DH section, or a hefty drop off or a surprise hit you didn't notice.

Thats how I could describe the difference between it. The fork swap contributed mostly to the change of my bikes compression, but I do love the new mooshy and slow compression on my bike...but some attributes of the 6" I do miss.

Maybe this helps? No idea if it does.
 
#15 ·
My dad surprised me and went ahead to bring me the X6:D It is killer! With 5-6 inches of suspension and the way it feels, for my type of jumping and riding I think it will be more than enough. Oh well, I will just upgrade slowly and make it in to a killer DH/ FR bike, chain tensioner will be in there pretty soon. Pics coming soon, but I need to get some batteries for my camera:blush2::p


Thanks for the advice, Shredder111:cool:
 
#20 ·
dont be so quick to upgrade the Duro D. I have been pleastly suprised on what it can handle, though by no means am I saying its a great fork. But break it before you upgrade. No offense meant to you, none at all, but you are a little guy(from the pics) and most people dont actually hit 10-15ft drops for quite some time. that bike, as it sits, should be good for you for some good sized drops. once you can actually feel(not imagaine) the limitations of the fork, or break it, then upgrade.

Good looking bike, I roll a Haro too.

Matt
 
#21 ·
I was pretty surprised by the duro too, it can be pretty stiff and tuned in if you tweak it. Lol I know, I thought the same the thing about looking little in my pic. Everybody always tells me how young I look, but I am actually close to being 16 lol in a few months. Our biggest drop on the trail is about 8 feet tall onto a high platform thats 4 feet tall so about 4ft.tall overall from the trees. I am getting close to doing this one. Gotta go.


Thanks, Shredder111:cool:
 
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