Seems like this is a question that should answer itself.
The butted version is superior, but it probably doesn't matter in any application where an H bar is appropriate. If you're building a cost-no-object bike around an H bar- don't consider the SG. If you're building a budget utilitarian bike- don't consider the tapered. They aren't the same, but it's a small thing on this sort of bike.
(i've used both versions, but not on my own bikes. I can sorta speak to nuance here, but i'd rather not unless someone asks specifically)
Seems like this is a question that should answer itself.
The butted version is superior, but it probably doesn't matter in any application where an H bar is appropriate. If you're building a cost-no-object bike around an H bar- don't consider the SG. If you're building a budget utilitarian bike- don't consider the tapered. They aren't the same, but it's a small thing on this sort of bike.
(i've used both versions, but not on my own bikes. I can sorta speak to nuance here, but i'd rather not unless someone asks specifically)
Interesting, i didn't consider compliance. i just bought the butted version thinking the added $40 only hurt me once, but the saved 100g i have for every future bike i out that bar on.
Can't comment on the SG but I have the butted aluminum version and the thing is ridiculously light weight. My left wrist isn't copacetic with straighter bars (don't ask) for extended periods but it likes the loop bar. FWIW it'll take a bit to dial in the angle (I run mine level-ish) and find a stem length to match (I have it paired with a 70mm Chromag Ranger stem) but when you find the sweet spot ZOMG! ^_^
I have J bend SG bar and a H bar on two bikes. As mentioned the SG is heavier but i havent found any difference in the compliance of either. Maybe im doing it wrong or something. I do like um alot though. I found cutting the ends down a bit makes the bar a bit less cumbersome from side to side..and you dont have to run stupid long stems in order to get the bar forward.
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