9mm qr are flexy, go to through axle go up to 15mm (modern standard) 20mm (old school). You will likely need a new wheel (hub + rebuild) and a new fork.
But that video shows a true mechanical problem. I've got no way to determine what's actually going on here, but regardless, that shouldn't happen, even with a QR up front.
I'm trying to imagine what happens to the wheel when you try to slow the hub while the tire/rim is driven forward by inertia. What's in between them? Spokes, held by the hub flange and rim, with the hub on an axle held by the fork. The stopping force on the rotor is on one side of the hub only, so I expect it would tend to cause twisting of the hub/axle/fork. So as mentioned, a beefier axle/fork would resist the twisting better. The hub/axle is also held by the spokes. Spoke count, hub width, rim stoutness and proper tensioning also contribute to the wheels ability to resist deforming forces, whatever the source.
So if you want a wheel that deforms less, get a beefier, wider hub/axle/fork with a stouter rim from a quality builder. Short of that, you might try taking the wheel to a wheel builder to have the spoke tension checked and adjusted.
Edit: And per Harold, the shop can check for any other problems, so bring the whole bike :thumbsup:
Thanks for your reply. The spokes have been checked and they were fine. I actually put a different wheel on (from a different bike where this problem does not happen), and the same thing happened on my bike! Makes me wonder if the fork has worn out and is no longer the right size for wheel?
Are you properly installing the wheel and putting enough tension on the QR handle? For road bikes, general rule of thumb is to lock the QR lever to the point where your palm turns white. It shouldn't be overly difficult to close the lever but it should be tight enough to where your palm will turn white when locking it. Also are you installing the wheel with the bike while it's upside down?
i am installing the wheel with the bike the right way up, and pushing down onto the forks to seat it well while tensioning it. i am doing it as hard as i possibly can. althoguh when i do it relatively more loosely, the problem does seem to get worse
Hmm it could be a fork problem like you mentioned. You swapped wheels around from another bike and the problem persisted. Maybe it's just me but when i watch the video, the right fork stanchion (left from our view) almost looks like it bends when you brake. I could just be going crazy but that's what it looks like!
Maybe you should inspect the fork crown for cracks. Look on the outside and inside of the crown where the tire passes between it.
That's an odd one. Could be broken axle in the hub. The QR isn't the axle. The QR pinches the dropouts against the axle stubs that stick out from the hub. What happens when you grab the tire near the fork crown and push it side to side? Any looseness or grinding?
Pull the top of the wheel left and right and with your other hand at the dropouts, axle-hub interface, etc., to see if you can feel where the flex/play is.
To check the wheel/ hub ,put it on another bike and see if it flexes. That way you narrow it down to either the wheel or fork. But you stated that different wheel flexed on your fork ,did you check that wheel on the bike it came from?
this is a good point I have not tried my wheel on another bike. Yes i did try the other wheel from the bike it came from and it didnt seem to have the same problem. I may try to fit my wheel to another bike thanks for the idea
You can get a QR adapter that will allow you to use a QR fork with a 15mm wheel (it slides into the 15mm hub). Try the 15mm wheel or try with a friend's wheel and see if the adapter fixed it. from my own experience my front wheel would consistently move to the disc brake side over time until it sat crooked in the frame no matter what I did with the QR until I got the adapter and a 15mm hub. QR's are too weak on their own...
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