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Gear type question?

1K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  mack_turtle 
#1 ·
I have this old giant revel 1 that I recently converted to ss. I used a origin8 spacer kit and this dmr chain tensioner. took the cassette apart and reused the 18t gear out of it and I'm using the original 32t from the 3x up front. Best I can tell the drivetrain looks straight. I was goofing off earlier hit a small drop and went down some stairs without issue. It dropped the chain as I was really mashing on it to get speed for a hill.
(Luckily no nuts were harmed) I put it back together checked the tension and it felt fine.
This was a 3x8 drivetrain and I bought a new 9sp chain thinking I might need to get a narrow wide chain ring.

Is my chain the issue or is my gears the issue?

 

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#3 ·
Those chainrings were designed to derail with the aid of the derailleur. Think about it, if multi speed chainrings just derailed chains then 2x riders would either always be dropping their chains, or at the very least your chain would always be rubbing the derailleur cage (which just doesn't happen). Not to mention that the chain angles seen on a multispeed bike are far more extreme than any singlespeed should be.

I can't say what is causing the chain drop without seeing the bike, but looking at that setup my best guess would be it has something to do with the chain tensioner pushing down the chain instead of pushing up. At the very least that will likely cause skipping.
 
#8 ·
Those chainrings were designed to derail with the aid of the derailleur. Think about it, if multi speed chainrings just derailed chains then 2x riders would either always be dropping their chains, or at the very least your chain would always be rubbing the derailleur cage (which just doesn't happen).

...
I set my crosscheck up 2x up front with shifty chainrings with no front derailer, my intention being to shift by hand to the little chainring at the trail head. I dropped chains left and right. Put a front derailer on, runs great now. That derailer cage is doing more than you think to keep the chain on.

I agree with others; change that chainring and you'll be set.
 
#6 ·
My guess is the cog combined with the chain tensioner. Single speed cogs have much longer teeth. I would start there. It will also save your hub if its aluminum. Ss cogs have a much wider base so they dont dig into the cassette body.

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#7 ·
As others have said, change your chainring. The original 32 from your old set has ramped teeth, designed to derail when an appropriate side force is applied. Unless your chainline is PERFECT, any bouncing at all coupled with a slight side load on the chain will allow the ramps do what they were designed to.
 
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