I have discovered the hard way that narrow/wide chainrings require chains that can only be shortened or lengthened by 2 links at a time. This is causing chain tension issues with my Giant XTC Advanced Plus. So far my web searches are coming up empty for a standard chainring that will allow me to use a chain that can be adjusted in one link increments. Can anyone help?
Not sure what you mean as I haven't had this experience. You sure there isn't something else going on here? Number of links has never made a difference to me NW chain rings.
Are you looking to use a half-link chain, or are you looking for a ring with an odd number of teeth?
Doubtful, as the narrow-wide phenomenon is ubiquitous because 99.9% of those rings are paired with a rear derailleur and therefore the market is supporting 1x## drivetrains and not 1x1s. I would skip the drama and look for a new crankset that uses an old standard 104 BCD ring as plenty of odd-numbered rings with uniform teeth that play nice with a half-link are plentiful.
The other option is to change your ring and cog to something with an even number of teeth on the ring but a slightly different effective CSL. For example, 30/19, 32/20, and 34/21 are effectively the same to ride, but they yield chainstay lengths that differ enough to make the option.
Play with those options here- http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php
You can only add or subtract a minimum of 2 links (1") on any chain regardless of what sort of chainring you're using. As mentioned in the the only exception is if you use a half link, in which case you would need a standard chainring.
"Two links" is actually one full link. Each link consists of two half-link with two rollers.
With the new Shimano asymmetric "standard" there are very limited chainring options, which is why I resisted the urge to buy an XT crankset for $100 last week and chose a RF Aeffect instead. I have no real use for odd-numbered tooth rings, but Cinch has a lot more options.
Why aren't new chains listed as being 58 links? The box doesn't say 116 half links. Like I said, it is confusing.
I'm not trying to win any arguments, just trying to keep things simple. If you go by your (and Sheldon's) definition and then follow scram or Shimano's chain sizing instructions (for geared bikes) you will get the wrong chain length.
I'll stop as soon as you admit you're wrong and I'm right!
Point made, it's confusing. I think manufacturers should start listing the number of links in a chain accurately. What is labeled as a 114 link chain is really a chain of 57 full links. They probably started labeling them that way decades ago and memetic inertia set in.
Anyhow, OP is concerned about his bike being between adding one full link and subtracting one full link. Because this requires a half-link, which does not work on a n-w ring, or a odd-count chainring that does not exist for this crankset, he's best off replacing the crankset. He can get a modern DM setup and put a 104 BCD spider on it too and use any odd-tooth or half-link friendly chain. He wants that way.
OP here. Yes this is for a singlespeed. And my terminology was hosed. I am talking about half link capability. I am running 30x20 and my dropouts slide horizontally. Currently the axle is as far forward in the dropout as possible, and the chain is too tight IMO. Bike shop says that they tried adding a full link, but with the axle as far back as possible, the chain was too loose.
Try a 32/21 gear. It's close enough to the ratio of 30/20 but will result in a slightly longer CSL.
The old non-NW ring from Shimano is a good find! However, my personal experience with half-links is that they stretch and they suck. Half-link chains are exceptionally bad!
How worn is your chain? You CSL is 430mm according to Giant's website. According to the fixing tool, a 30/20 should yield about a 425 or 438mm CSL. I would start with a new chain and aim for that 440 CSL. If you want to lose 10mm (which is a lot IMO), try a 32/21 combo.
No sense in chasing out dated components. Adjust your cog and chain ring and move on. You might have to spend a few dollars, but you'll figure it out. And as some have said, why bother running some crap 1/2 link that not only stretches but are pretty heavy.
I've more or less become a pro at this having run gates carbon drive systems and various tires sizes that may or may not fit on my 1x road bike with horizontal dropouts. Talk about expensive adjustments.
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