Should I SS it? I've read all the SS/FS threads, have at least a short cage clutched derailleur, but not opposed to getting a proper tensioner (rohloff DH probably). I enjoy the $*** out of my SS pugsley, everytime I'm on my Jones Plus I think about SSing it (except for when I'm towing my daughter on trails), and will probably turn my '88 Klein back into a SS over the summer.
I already know the answer, probably, hence my posting here. :thumbsup:
I've done a few SS/Rohloff FS bikes, including two Lenz Milk Money. One interesting thing I've learned is that there is noticable friction with the derailleur/chain tensioner. It's not a deal killer but if you're into FS SS, I think you'll appreciate getting a purpose built FS/SS some day. I've also set my Salsa Bucksaw up SS. All that extra traction and FS is great for SSing rough terrain. I think the ultimate FS/SS would be a 27.5+ Milk Money.
Yep. Changing the direction of the chain not once but twice introduces more friction than you'd guess. Definitely a point in favor of a true concentric pivot on an FS SS.
Yeah, all those thousands of derailleur riders sure must wish that they didn't have to deal with so much drag.
Seriously, I can't tell the difference between my Tallboy with a Rohloff and my Surly Wednesday with horizontal drops.
I'd say most of the time (I said 'most'), people get way too bent out of shape about drag. Draggy hubs, bottom brackets, and derailleurs are nearly always unnoticeable once on the bike in my experience. Just because something spins a bit faster on the bike stand doesn't mean you'll feel it on the trail and instantly get all the QOM's on the mountain.
Yeah, all those thousands of derailleur riders sure must wish that they didn't have to deal with so much drag.
Seriously, I can't tell the difference between my Tallboy with a Rohloff and my Surly Wednesday with horizontal drops.
I'd say most of the time (I said 'most'), people get way too bent out of shape about drag. Draggy hubs, bottom brackets, and derailleurs are nearly always unnoticeable once on the bike in my experience. Just because something spins a bit faster on the bike stand doesn't mean you'll feel it on the trail and instantly get all the QOM's on the mountain.
For those that ride a SS FS bike, I am curious about setup. The local trails that I ride are a combination of relatively flat and fast to 20 something miles of short, steep ups and downs, which is my favorite. I love the challenge of a technical climb. At the same time, I hate jacking with my bike's drive train, so I run 34/20 gears, which tend to be a good middle ground for that variation. As you can imagine, on my favorite trail, I spend a good amount of time out of the saddle riding in a manner that would have any FS I have ridden, bouncing up and down. I attended a Santa Cruz demo day last fall, tried three different models, and had to completely re-think how I attacked any incline. I have ridden with friends that were riding FS, watched them attack short, steep climbs out of the saddle and pedal relatively smooth. However on any longer climbs, they still downshifted and stayed in the saddle. How do you get around this on a FS SS Bike? Run super low gears, sit and spin on the climbs and just don't plan on any flat ground speed or stiff'in up the suspension to counter inch worming?
i went with a single-ator type tensioner on my scalpel. I love it. i have the alfine tensioner on my fat bike and i like that too. don't notice much difference between them but wheel changes are infinitely easier on the alpine. here are the two different ones
Good ideas here for FS SS, has anyone changed a Spec Epic to SS?
Had one in the past and always thought it make a fun SS.
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